Author Topic: Exhaust popping  (Read 631 times)

Offline Ringosdad

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Exhaust popping
« on: May 16, 2019, 04:03:23 PM »
My Norge is popping on deceleration. I have a mistrel exhaust. Anybody know a good fix?
Never look straight up at a bird

Online oldbike54

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2019, 04:34:40 PM »
 Beetle map , Beetle map , Beetle map .

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Offline guzzisteve

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2019, 05:01:19 PM »
Yes, Beetle has the 'touch' you might say. I just got one to put in a G. Excellent costumer service also.
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Online lucian

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2019, 05:54:46 PM »
Had the same issue with my Griso with a termi pipe. A beetle map totally transformed the fueling from bottom to top. If you need help to load it he will help with that to. We are fortunate to have him here . See the link below to see more of what he does to make life more enjoyable for us with FI guzzi's




https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0

Offline giusto

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2019, 05:56:18 PM »
My Norge is popping on deceleration. I have a mistrel exhaust. Anybody know a good fix?




Hey Pappa Ringo, let's see the girl

I just bought an 08 Norge last week...fly and ride from North Dakota...a wonderful 1100 miles
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è il jouney non la destinazione che è importante

Online Bulldog9

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2019, 07:01:26 PM »
Plus 100 on the Beetle map. Something to keep in mind is that the Norge seems to pop and burble a little more on overrun then other Guzzi's even in stock state.
2007 GRiSO 1100
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Offline Ncdan

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2019, 07:02:17 PM »
Make sure all exhaust connections are tight and no leaks.

Offline Buckturgidson

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2019, 07:13:48 PM »



Hey Pappa Ringo, let's see the girl

I just bought an 08 Norge last week...fly and ride from North Dakota...a wonderful 1100 miles

Congrats, 2V Norges are the bomb. My exhaust burbles, who cares?
"It's not your job to be as confused as Nigel."
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Offline cappisj1

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2019, 07:48:52 PM »
Check your “collector” or “two into one” pipe. If it’s cracked it will pop on deceleration. I had mine welded. Popping significantly reduced. Ran better too. The beetle map is my next adventure. 

Online Pizza Guzzi

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2019, 01:23:20 AM »
Well I don't have a Norge but I do have Mistrals and Beetle map on a V7 111 and zero decel popping. In my experience Marks not happy until you are 👍

Glenn.

Offline randy yocum

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2019, 06:47:59 AM »
That's a good point,on inspection my 2 into 1 collector pipe on my 2007 Norge I found it was severally cracked almost in two.luckily it was easy to remove ,and a quick weld job remedied the situation,I'm ready to ride again.
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Online rocker59

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2019, 07:49:29 AM »
My Norge is popping on deceleration. I have a mistrel exhaust. Anybody know a good fix?

dB killer installed, or not ??
Michael T.
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Online pete roper

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2019, 08:20:37 AM »
The reason you will get popping on the overrun with standard mapping on W5AM Guzzis, and probably others, is simple.

Ignoring facts like cracks in pipes or failed gaskets the system works so that when you go to a negative throttle, (Sub 5* of opening.) with factory mapping no matter what the engine speed the ECU will continue to deliver the correct amount of fuel to maintain idle.

Unfortunately, because the engine is pumping harder at higher crank speeds more air gets pushed past the throttle plates so the mixture becomes incombustibly lean but as the engine cycles residual mixture from previous failed cycles will hang around and then every few cycles the mix will become combustible and ignite. When that happens the moment the exhaust valve starts to open the hot gasses exiting the combustion chamber will ignite the previously unburnt charge/s in the exhaust causing the backfiring.

With Mark's maps the fuel is cut entirely on a negative throttle until the crank speed drops to less than, (I think, generally.) 2,700 rpm. With no fuel being delivered there is nothing being pumped through the engine to combust either in the combustion chamber or the exhaust pipe. Hence no 'Popping'.

This system does mean that there is a slight, but noticeable, increase in engine braking and if one is running down a hill and decelerating on a negative throttle, at 2,700 rpm there is a slight lurch as the fuel kicks back in. It's not intrusive or, in the ordinary course of events, even noticeable. There is a long speed limited hill going into Queanbeyan though that finishes at the beginning of the 60 KPH zone. I often amuse myself by rolling down that hill in sixth gear and trying to judge it so that I get the 'Fuel Lurch' at the same point just before the 60k speed sign. I'm pathetically easily entertained though! :boozing: When it does cut back in though, depending on temperature and how serious I am about a fully closed throttle, get one small 'Pop' as the fuel cuts back in but only if I'm being a lazy slob and ambient temperature is between about 25-27*C as seen by the dash! :grin:

Pete

Offline M0T0Geezer

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2019, 08:22:51 AM »
Make sure all exhaust connections are tight and no leaks.

Ditto that, and specifically: Carefully check the "Y" exhaust collector for cracks (leaks) - Item 13.

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Offline Ringosdad

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2019, 01:47:59 PM »







Hey Pappa Ringo, let's see the girl

I just bought an 08 Norge last week...fly and ride from North Dakota...a wonderful 1100 miles
Never look straight up at a bird

Online Bulldog9

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Re: Exhaust popping
« Reply #15 on: May 17, 2019, 03:21:17 PM »
Thanks Pete, probably the best explanation I've seen on overrun popping.

The reason you will get popping on the overrun with standard mapping on W5AM Guzzis, and probably others, is simple.

Ignoring facts like cracks in pipes or failed gaskets the system works so that when you go to a negative throttle, (Sub 5* of opening.) with factory mapping no matter what the engine speed the ECU will continue to deliver the correct amount of fuel to maintain idle.

Unfortunately, because the engine is pumping harder at higher crank speeds more air gets pushed past the throttle plates so the mixture becomes incombustibly lean but as the engine cycles residual mixture from previous failed cycles will hang around and then every few cycles the mix will become combustible and ignite. When that happens the moment the exhaust valve starts to open the hot gasses exiting the combustion chamber will ignite the previously unburnt charge/s in the exhaust causing the backfiring.

With Mark's maps the fuel is cut entirely on a negative throttle until the crank speed drops to less than, (I think, generally.) 2,700 rpm. With no fuel being delivered there is nothing being pumped through the engine to combust either in the combustion chamber or the exhaust pipe. Hence no 'Popping'.

This system does mean that there is a slight, but noticeable, increase in engine braking and if one is running down a hill and decelerating on a negative throttle, at 2,700 rpm there is a slight lurch as the fuel kicks back in. It's not intrusive or, in the ordinary course of events, even noticeable. There is a long speed limited hill going into Queanbeyan though that finishes at the beginning of the 60 KPH zone. I often amuse myself by rolling down that hill in sixth gear and trying to judge it so that I get the 'Fuel Lurch' at the same point just before the 60k speed sign. I'm pathetically easily entertained though! :boozing: When it does cut back in though, depending on temperature and how serious I am about a fully closed throttle, get one small 'Pop' as the fuel cuts back in but only if I'm being a lazy slob and ambient temperature is between about 25-27*C as seen by the dash! :grin:

Pete
2007 GRiSO 1100
2016 Stornello #742
2017 MGX #265
1979 Yamaha XS1100SF "Visitation"
1978 XS750 Triple

 

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