2010 CalVin Brake Light Problem

[grebmrof]

Found a low mile 2010 CalVin a couple of weeks ago, a black one and brought it home, it has done a lot of sitting in its 9+ year life.  I've only put a couple of hundred miles on it, somewhat resolved a popping issue by going back to the stock muffler crossover, fixed oil leaks from the valve covers and checked the valve lash (only slight adjustments to get it to .004 intake, .006 exhaust - geez these valves are quiet, or I'm going further deaf!).  In any case, I have a lingering brake light issue - sometimes they work, other times they don't.

After reviewing the wiring diagram, and running several continuity tests, we came to the conclusion that the problem could be relay-related.  So all relays were removed and examined for corrosion (none found) and tested using a lab instrument that permitted us to apply various voltages.  All seemed ok.  Also tested the bulb and it appeared ok.  Checked bulb & fuses.  Both switches are working fine.

We plugged all relays back into their terminal block, and viola, a working brake light.  We tested it several times, with only the ignition switch ‘on,’ and with engine running.  Both front and rear switches would actuate the brake light.

Then, as mysteriously, the brake light would quit working.  Swapped out relays with new Omrons that appeared to be part of the logic circuit.  After plugging in the new relays, the brake light worked once again, then just as quickly it quit working again. 

Question to long-time California/CalVin owners.  Is the brake light issue a common problem, similar to ‘startus interruptus?’  Or are we simply looking in the wrong place for the problem?  Should we be chasing a grounding issue?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[Markcarovilli]

Tom

Could it be the brake light socket - bulb not fitting well or fouled?  Had one that didn’t grip bulb well and tightened up by squeezing with some pliers worked. 

Thats all I have....

[Rick in WNY]

Check for loose grounds, loose plugs, loose socket. Does this happen with just the front brake, or both front and rear? Checking that will tell you if it's a switch, ie, if the rear brake pedal lights the brake light consistently but the front brake doesn't, it's a good bet that the front brake switch is sticking. Then you can try cleaning the switch before replacing it. Also, look for broken wires, chafed insulation, all the usual electrical gremlins.

[Zoom Zoom]

Tom

Could it be the brake light socket - bulb not fitting well or fouled?  Had one that didn’t grip bulb well and tightened up by squeezing with some pliers worked. 

Thats all I have....

This /\ /\ /\

John Henry

[rdtricks]

With my 'O6' there is an intermittent issue with the front brake switch not actuating.  For the most part a couple of squirts with an electrical contact cleaner, to free up the contact, and followed up with a 'dry silicone lube' has been the ticket.  Intermittent issues are the worst!  Good luck.   

[grebmrof]

With my 'O6' there is an intermittent issue with the front brake switch not actuating.  For the most part a couple of squirts with an electrical contact cleaner, to free up the contact, and followed up with a 'dry silicone lube' has been the ticket.  Intermittent issues are the worst!  Good luck.   

That is one of the things we know, both switches are working fine, the relay is good, taillight bulb is functioning, contacts and ground at the taillight are good...I guess I'll keep chasing grounds that are not well grounded.  Don't want to ride without a consistently functioning brake light.

[ohiorider]

The bad news is ..... it is an intermittent problem.  The good news is ..... you have two other bikes in the garage with working tail lights!  And they're both lovely!  Admittedly, so is the newest addition ..... the 2010 CalVin in Black with White pin striping.  What a beautiful cruiser!

Love the skunk saddle, too.

Bob

[Kiwi_Roy]

Looking at this 2008 model.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_California_Vintage.gif
The front and rear brake switches are fed from the headlight relay, that's an easy point to access the wiring. wrap a small wire around the (22) relays 87 pin and plug it back in. Run the other end to a small test light, this will establish whether power is getting as far as the light relay and cut the troubleshooting in half. The light should always be on while the key is on.

Note the (22) relay also feeds the tach, horn, idiot lights blinkers and Voltage regulator.

[grebmrof]

Roy, thank you...I did a test and the wiring and relays are all good...I began to take connectors apart to inspect their condition and spray them with deoxit, blow them dry with light compressed air, reconnect them and see if anything changes and the brake lights work.  There are three groups of wires coming from the tail light/turn signals that exit the rear fender into the area aft of the battery to be connected with quick disconnects to more of the wiring harness as things move forward.  The wires are into a group of three, two and then one, with corresponding connectors in the area between the battery and front of the rear fender.  It turns out the the three wire connector doesn't connect tightly enough, but each time I pulled the connector apart and reconnected it, the brake light functioned.  I did this many times, with wiggling the connector in between until the brake light didn't work.  I end up using a very small wire tie to keep the female and male sides of the connector together better (not sure if this will survive an hour ride yet)...and the brake lights are functioning.  I would have tried to insure good connections in the connector, but the parts are so small I thought I would only screw things up if I started poking around.  The wires coming into this connector are black, yellow and red/blue going to the same wires on the female side, although there are two red/blue wires on that side.  So perhaps replacing that connector with another one, might be in order.  But for the moment, the brake lights are working in the garage, we'll see if they survive a ride.

Thanks for your comments and thoughts on this stuff.  I would post a picture of the connector, but don't have a hosting service for photos (did when photobucket was more friendly, but that is gone).

[Kiwi_Roy]

Google IMGBB, that's what I'm currently using.

Don't put up with a bad connector, chop it out and replace it with crimp connectors or replace the wire all the way from the light to the switch.
Something I always do is dip the wires in Vaseline before crimping them, this keeps the metal free from corrosion.

I have heard that for boats they use tinned wire, I bet you can find some decent connectors in a shop specializing in marine applications.

[grebmrof]

The band-aided connector worked fine over a 50 mile back road ride.  I checked it every few miles to make sure it continued to function - it did.  Next to replace that connector with something better. 

Thanks again for all your input.