What Tools Should I Be Buying Now?

[sign216]

What tools will go obsolete soon, and difficult to get?

I was just admiring a set of SAE + Metric ignition wrenches that I snagged off Evilbay.  USA made, old time, when even moderately priced tools were still made well.  No one sets points and dwell anymore, so I was happy to get this old set.

In that vein, what tools should I be squirreling away now, that in years ahead will be difficult to find or become pricey?

[Kev m]

MetWrench!

 

[Zinfan]

Timing light?

[Murray]

Unfortuantly due the US large manufacturing industry SAE isn't going anywhere. Timing lamps could be made with about $40 of parts down the electronics store.

[malik]

Points files. So handy for all sorts, and getting hard to find.

If you have bikes with chains, I found a trammel useful for checking rear wheel alignment. Had to scare one up in the second hand market on-line.

[sign216]

Malik, Point files are good, I found some at a hobby store, but won't find them in an auto parts store!  A trammel is a more obscure tool.  Thanks for that.

Murray, yes you can make your own timing light, but a professional pistol style light is nice to use, and cheap now on the used market.  At least until they stop making them (have they already?).

Kevin, what do you mean by metwrench?  I googled it and the results were mixed.

Joe

[sliphorn]

Malik, Point files are good, I found some at a hobby store, but won't find them in an auto parts store!  A trammel is a more obscure tool.  Thanks for that.

Murray, yes you can make your own timing light, but a professional pistol style light is nice to use, and cheap now on the used market.  At least until they stop making them (have they already?).

Kevin, what do you mean by metwrench?  I googled it and the results were mixed.

Joe

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Kev probably meant metrinch.    www.metrinch.tv

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[s1120]

Not sure the last time I saw a dwell meter for sale...  Not sure you would need one though..  Really most of the tools like that, and timing lights... they may stop making them, but really there are SOOOOOO many out there in the world... so many sitting in tool boxes in dusty garages, that it will never be a issue finding them.  Big issue will be finding GOOD tools...  I will say the bottom tier cheep tools have gotten a lot better..  but I don't think the good stuff is as good as it was.

[Ncdan]

+1 on the METRINCH I’ve had a set for 30 years. The sockets and wrenches fits every type nut and bolt out there. The grip is on the flats of the nut and not on the corners where regular tools grip. Great tools!!!

[Sheepdog]

I buy motorcycle maker's special tools offered for the bikes I ride. I've recently picked up a bunch of Whitworth tools and some Pozidrive tips to help me keep the Meriden Triumph going. Beam-type torque wrenches are getting hard to find.

[Kev m]

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Kev probably meant metrinch.    www.metrinch.tv

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Ooops, yes.

Believe it or not they work and can be handy to remove partially stripped fasteners.

[dguzzi]

I'll sell my dwell meter and raise you drafting/drawing tools, T square, angles, protractor, that sort of stuff.

And pencils,  gotta have that.

[sib]

Points files. So handy for all sorts, and getting hard to find.....

A 6" Diamond Deb nail file works well as a points file.  I'm not sure if the current Diamond Deb offering still has real diamond dust embedded, but my old one does.  It has a thin stiff stainless steel base and still works well for small metal filing jobs even after ~50 years.

[RinkRat II]

 Popiel Pocket Fisherman.  Go ahead and laugh, but while I'm havin' fresh caught Mahi Mahi you'll be looking at your dwell meter!

       Paul B

[sidecarnutz]

A dollar bill being made of linen paper, is great to run thru a set of points to clean them. I guaranty you a debit card won't do that job. Set aside a dollar bill in your box for points work.

[malik]

Proper oil cans are getting hard to find. You know the ones - those small round, domed ones, used to be made of tin (?), with a sprung bottom plate that pushes out a drop at a time when you push the plate. Useful on the odd occasion. And it has to make a little click noise.

I've been keeping an eye out for a decent & well made tool for measuring (indicating) wheel & disc run out (forget what it's called & that doesn't help the search). I could make up something that could work, but a well designed & built tool is easier to use, and likely pack away better - not going to be using it daily.

[80CX100]

Beam-type torque wrenches are getting hard to find.

     ^^^^^This!

     I'm very lucky that over the years I've ended up with 3 good quality Beam Type torque wrenches, 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" drives, covering most jobs I'll be tackling.

     With the quality of all tools going down, newer click style torque wrenches can be a recipe for disaster, especially with newbies, I've read of a few horror stories.

     Good quality pullers of all descriptions are getting very hard to come by, even my local OTC Pro Am Tools dealer, is selling re-branded inferior crap just to stay in business.

     Best tool I ever invested in, is an 8? way 3?lb slide hammer combo sold by OTC as the "Silver Slapper",,, first time I used it, I had been struggling for a week trying to pull the bearing races/seats from the rear axle of my old Camaro,,, with the right tool, they were out in 15 minutes.

     A good selection of hammers, sledges and particularly heavy leather or wooden mallets. I have one HUGE 4-5? lb"beast" of an old wooden mallet, that was a god send tool, used carefully to get stuck old fork tubes in&out of triple clamps damage free.

     Good old quality grinders & drill presses are nice to have, anything with a Jacob Chuck is worth it's weight in gold, compared to most crap available today.

     I still lament the loss of an old Makita 3/8 drill w a Jacobs Chuck, I think my son and his friend at the time, probably pawned it for a gram of weed 

     And of course, a good collection of 10 mm sockets & wrenches are nice to have on hand,,, like that'll ever happen 

     Patience, Wisdom and a Fresh Perspective, are the best tools, I've added to my tool belt over the years

     Kelly
     

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

For any points ignition Guzzi: Bosch Distributor Grease. Points stay in gap "forever" using it. Already going extinct, sort of.  Glad I still have half of my 30 year old tube left.

[Guzzistajohn]

Popiel Pocket Fisherman.  Go ahead and laugh, but while I'm havin' fresh caught Mahi Mahi you'll be looking at your dwell meter!

       Paul B

Those work fine! I have one 'round here somewhere..........

[Guzzidad]

   I've been keeping an eye out for a decent & well made tool for measuring (indicating) wheel & disc run out (forget what it's called & that doesn't help the search). I could make up something that could work, but a well designed & built tool is easier to use, and likely pack away better - not going to be using it daily.

   Malik, dial indicater

[sign216]

For any points ignition Guzzi: Bosch Distributor Grease. Points stay in gap "forever" using it. Already going extinct, sort of.  Glad I still have half of my 30 year old tube left.

Antietam, Really?  That's better than the EP Moly etc grease I have around for splines and all?  I use that for everything.

Kev, thanks for the affirmation on Metwrinch.  It sounds like hokum, but if people here say it's real, I'm in.

Malik, I hear you on the oil spout can.  I made my own out of some small metal cans of surplus army gun oil.  Just solder/epoxied a thin metal tube onto the cap.

What's with all the wailing about beam torque wrenches?  I went for the click style, and never looked back.

Joe

[Chuck in Indiana]

What's with all the wailing about beam torque wrenches?  I went for the click style, and never looked back.

The beam type never needs calibration. Click types "should" be calibrated regularly.. and.. if a click type loses it's ju ju, it's easy to over torque something.

[John A]

Set aside a dollar bill in your box for points work.

That's not a good idea around us Guzzi riders!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Antietam, Really?  That's better than the EP Moly etc grease I have around for splines and all?  I use that for everything.

Just my experience. It's purpose made for the application and works better than anything else I've tried.

[Sasquatch Jim]

A biggahamma.

[John A]

Antietam, Really?  That's better than the EP Moly etc grease I have around for splines and all?  I use that for everything.
Joe

It's been my experience as well except I have an old tube of AC Delco point grease.
I also have a complete set of point heel grinders if I want to custom fit the points heel to its cam for performance tuning.

[sign216]

It's been my experience as well except I have an old tube of AC Delco point grease.
I also have a complete set of point heel grinders if I want to custom fit the points heel to its cam for performance tuning.

Ok, for two recommendations I'll buy the dedicated points grease.  I'm interested if they really adjust the formula to enhance the longevity of the points, but if you two say it works, then I guess they really do make the grease special.

At any rate a tube is about a lifetime supply, and they'll stop making it soon enough.

Joe

P.S. Once they stop making it then everyone (me too) will complain about how you can't get it anymore.

[80CX100]

Antietam, Really?  That's better than the EP Moly etc grease I have around for splines and all?  I use that for everything.

What's with all the wailing about beam torque wrenches?  I went for the click style, and never looked back.

Joe

     Hey Joe     I like the visual reference to help me make a common sense decision on how tight I want to go.

     With all the various conversions from inch lbs. Ft lbs NM KGM etc it's easy to make a mistake & some of the original specs have been known to be overly ambitious specs for chalk like fasteners or cottage cheese castings. I like being able to trust my own judgement, the bending beam, part of the equation, some times a bit of loc tite thrown in for a little peace of mind.

     I don't like putting my faith completely blind in a tool that if all the stars don't align perfectly, may result in a "SNAP" and a dogs breakfast of a repair, instead of a reassuring click,,, with a beam type I've got a much better idea of what's going on, and avoiding potential grief, jmho.

     Re the comments about points grease, I haven't accumulated the mileage to support the claims, but I've read that it can increase the life of the points ten fold. Buy it up now while you still can. I had a very hard time finding it,,, one location I tried was a local Bourke's Ignition Shop,,, old time garage been in the business 50-60 years,,, forget about getting grease from them,,, the guys at the parts counter didn't even know what points were,lol 

     Kelly

[sign216]

     Hey Joe     I like the visual reference to help me make a common sense decision on how tight I want to go.

     With all the various conversions from inch lbs. Ft lbs NM KGM etc it's easy to make a mistake & some of the original specs have been known to be overly ambitious specs for chalk like fasteners or cottage cheese castings. I like being able to trust my own judgement, the bending beam, part of the equation, some times a bit of loc tite thrown in for a little peace of mind.

     I don't like putting my faith completely blind in a tool that if all the stars don't align perfectly, may result in a "SNAP" and a dogs breakfast of a repair, instead of a reassuring click,,, with a beam type I've got a much better idea of what's going on, and avoiding potential grief, jmho.

     Re the comments about points grease, I haven't accumulated the mileage to support the claims, but I've read that it can increase the life of the points ten fold. Buy it up now while you still can. I had a very hard time finding it,,, one location I tried was a local Bourke's Ignition Shop,,, old time garage been in the business 50-60 years,,, forget about getting grease from them,,, the guys at the parts counter didn't even know what points were,lol 

     Kelly

Kelly,

Perhaps you are right about the beam torque wrenches.  I once stripped the threads on a V7 valve lock because the "click"  on an in-lbs torque wrench was too faint to hear.  Fortunately a thread chaser was able to rehabilitate the valve lock threads enough to reuse. 

Joe

[JACoH]

I remember that I saw a Youtube video (or maybe on TV) about Vise Grips being an old American company, still operated by the original family.  And we all know all the off-branded copies really are junk. So, this weekend, I thought I would go get a couple real McCoys to replace all my Chinese junk ones.  Headed to the tool department and find they are branded Vise-Grip by Irwin, made in China and Taiwan. I left.