Next (personal) project - Moto Morini 3 1/2 Strada

[canuck750]

Happy Birthday! lo :thumb:okin good


What is your preferred cleaning chemical for bare aluminum cases?

I vapour blast my parts

[SIR REAL ED]

Happy Birthday! lo :thumb:okin good


What is your preferred cleaning chemical for bare aluminum cases?

I vapour blast my parts

I did not mean as a restoration, I meant on a bike that is still assembled, what would be your favorite cleaner?

[canuck750]

I did not mean as a restoration, I meant on a bike that is still assembled, what would be your favorite cleaner?

If the engine is in the frame I have used a diluted solution of NAPA Aluminum Brighter, deadly stuff if not used with the appropriate safety gear but it will restore the aluminum to near original finish if you are patient. The Aluminum brighter is used to restore the bright finish on aluminum tanker trucks, manufacturers recommend a 25/1 mix ratio with water, I go anywhere 5/2 ~ 2/1 depending upon how awful the corrosion is. You must have a full face respirator with the proper acid cartridges and wear rubber gloves. Once you mist the surface of the aluminum it will foam up white as the oxidation is broken down then after a few minutes a high pressure wash is run over the engine, it takes anywhere between 5 and 10 passes of solution and high pressure but it will come out looking close to vapor blasting. Do this outside with a good high pressure wash wand. It will not hurt the paint but it will discolor anodizing so keep it off brake calipers! I have used this for many years and before I got a vapor blast cabinet it was my go to method of cleaning aluminum, engine cases, transmissions, wheel hubs, rims etc....

This Eldo engine sat outside in Florida for decades



And this is the cleaned engine case, NAPA product and respirator

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

A little more done this evening: installed the primary gears and oil pump.

[SIR REAL ED]

If the engine is in the frame I have used a diluted solution of NAPA Aluminum Brighter, deadly stuff if not used with the appropriate safety gear but it will restore the aluminum to near original finish if you are patient. The Aluminum brighter is used to restore the bright finish on aluminum tanker trucks, manufacturers recommend a 25/1 mix ratio with water, I go anywhere 5/2 ~ 2/1 depending upon how awful the corrosion is. You must have a full face respirator with the proper acid cartridges and wear rubber gloves. Once you mist the surface of the aluminum it will foam up white as the oxidation is broken down then after a few minutes a high pressure wash is run over the engine, it takes anywhere between 5 and 10 passes of solution and high pressure but it will come out looking close to vapor blasting. Do this outside with a good high pressure wash wand. It will not hurt the paint but it will discolor anodizing so keep it off brake calipers! I have used this for many years and before I got a vapor blast cabinet it was my go to method of cleaning aluminum, engine cases, transmissions, wheel hubs, rims etc....

Thanks Jim.  Very interesting.  I have never used that chemical before.  Additional thanks for the safety tips.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Prepped the left outer case for installation. Oil pressure relief valve and all seals installed.




how to view direct photos on facebook

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

My latest order from Mdina Italia arrived today. New fork tubes and sprockets. The sprockets are for 520 chain rather than the 530 that's stock. There's not much clearance for the chain in a few places, so the 530 chain needs to be the non-o-ring type. With a 520, there's plenty of clearance to run an o-ring chain. The rear sprocket is alloy - hopefully it doesn't wear out quickly. Weighs a lot less...







Made a little more progress this evening. Installed the kickstart assembly and then the left-side outer case.

[SED]

Beautiful work Charlie.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Do over. After I installed the left cover, I started on the clutch, first piece was the clutch basket. While installing it, I spun the main shaft - the starter ratchet was not disengaging, which meant that I had somehow installed it incorrectly. Back off with the cover, head scratching what I'd done wrong.

Fortunately, I recently bought an engine assembly manual done by the US importer of Morinis "back in the day", Herdan Corp. It's a bit easier to understand than the "blue book" factory manual. Once I followed the procedure in that and remounted the left cover, the starter worked like it should.

Installed the clutch basket again. "Back to square one."



 

[SIR REAL ED]

Do over. After I installed the left cover, I started on the clutch, first piece was the clutch basket. While installing it, I spun the main shaft - the starter ratchet was not disengaging, which meant that I had somehow installed it incorrectly. Back off with the cover, head scratching what I'd done wrong.

Fortunately, I recently bought an engine assembly manual done by the US importer of Morinis "back in the day", Herdan Corp. It's a bit easier to understand than the "blue book" factory manual. Once I followed the procedure in that and remounted the left cover, the starter worked like it should.

Installed the clutch basket again. "Back to square one."

Good move catching it then Charlie.  Never hurts to doubt oneself a little bit and double or triple check.  It's only time.

On the plus side you end up with some great stories to tell down the line, and the experience of making a mistake is invaluable, saves one lots of money and pain down the line....... but only if you are man enough to admit it!  Great thread!

[Groover]

What was the problem? Was it one of those engaging type roller bearings in backwards?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

What was the problem? Was it one of those engaging type roller bearings in backwards?

It's a kickstart assembly, so no "roller bearings" to mess with. For lack of better terminology, the issue was "timing" the ratchet so that it would retract properly. I don't know why I had a problem this time - I didn't when assembling the 3 1/2 Sport engine two years ago. Might be I was just too tired (I'm always working on my stuff at the end of the work day) and should have left it for when I was rested. 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

A bit of actual progress this evening. Cleaned, lightly greased and installed the "special washer" that goes between the clutch basket and hub.




Cleaned the hub and installed it with a new locking washer and pushrod seal.




Cleaned (I'm tired of cleaning!  ) the clutch friction and metal plates and slipped them into place.




Too tired to continue, plus it was time to get some supper. Just the pressure plate, springs, cups and nuts to go yet, then I'll be done on this side of the engine.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Back at it today. Finished assembling the clutch: pressure plate, spring cups, springs and nuts installed.




Spent a little time wet sanding the clutch cover and then hand polishing it. It's not perfect, still a few scratches, but it's likely as shiny as when it left the factory.




Ditto for the ignition cover.




Started on the timing side. Sprocket installed. Cleaned the timing pulleys, washers springs, etc. and installed them. Slipped a new timing belt on.

[SIR REAL ED]

Charlie,

If you have the time, I for one would be very interested in seeing some pictures of your Moto Morini gas tank when you get it back from your "metal man" prior to body filler, paint, etc.

thanks,

Ed

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Installed the clutch pushrods (there are three pieces that go in from this side) and the actuating arm. Also installed the dipstick and oil drain plug.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Finally! The second shipment of my headpipes and header nuts made it through. Delivered today.




Mmm. Shiny.




Header nuts and crossover clamps.

[czakky82]

 

[Canuck750]

like Christmas in February!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

All of the hardware has returned from Parker Metal Finishing. This is the second batch I've had them do and I'm very pleased with the quality.




All of it was done in trivalent clear chromate, except the voltage regulator rectifier cover which was done in trivalent yellow chromate as original. 




Plate that holds the reg./rect. and fuse block, the screw for the fuse cover and horn bracket.




Misc. hardware.







Carburetor and airbox hardware.


 

[SIR REAL ED]

Outstanding thread Charlie.  Thanks for taking the time to post all this.

I love your engine stand!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

My friend John Abbleby stopped by this morning to drop off these decals he made for me. The go on the voltage regulator cover, top triple clamp, right gas tank trim and left gas tank trim.

[Groover]

Nice labels. Do you know how he makes them?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Nice labels. Do you know how he makes them?

He printed them with a laser printer.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The frame is finally back from the welder, steering stop repaired and the divots in the downtubes (from crashbars being clamped on?) filled in. Ready to go to the powdercoater this week.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Laid the rest of the chassis parts out, inspecting each part as I went. Found one more part that needs a little work - the centerstand has a hole worn through one of the "feet".




I'm planning to have these parts done in wrinkle black.




Cleaned the rear fender and chain guard. Both have scratches and acid stains that need to be buffed out.

[Canuck750]

Nice job fixing the frame downtubes, a lot of guys would have just painted over the dented tubes, this bike deserves the full Monty!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

My friend Martin welded up the centerstand "feet" and this evening I ground them back to flat. I'm finally ready to take everything to the powdercoater on Monday.

[Motorad64]

looking good!   

[LesP]

Was at a swap meet today and what did I see.