Next (personal) project - Moto Morini 3 1/2 Strada

[SIR REAL ED]

Great thread Charlie!

Thanks for posting.  The gods definitely intervened on the behalf of that little bike by allowing you to get it instead of me.  With my limited knowledge, experience, capabilities, and sources, that thing wouldn't have seen the road ever again.

Looking forward to more posts.

Ed

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Plugs for the crankshaft arrived from McMaster-Carr the other day - fit perfectly. As soon as I have a workspace empty, I can begin engine assembly.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

A few more pieces have returned from being bead blasted.

[canuck750]

Lovely! the pieces look better than new.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Today I began reassembly of my customer Mark's 3 1/2 Sport (#2) engine - heating the cases and installing the bearings. Figured while the oven was warmed up and all of the bearings chilled, that I might as well do mine too.











Two sets of cases with bearings and retainers installed. The timing side bearings have been upgraded to roller bearings.

[radguzzi]

Beautiful Charlie.


So these cases are indeed the vapor blasted cases..?  Looks great.

rad__

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Beautiful Charlie.


So these cases are indeed the vapor blasted cases..?  Looks great.

rad__

In the last photo, the left set were vapor blasted by the customer, the right set (mine) were High-Volume, Low-Pressure bead blasted.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Pulled the tank down off the shelf and remove the badges from it and the sidecovers so I could take some photos to send to the shop I'm thinking about using for paint this time. Pins apparently were broken off the badges (common) so they were stuck in place with some sort of adhesive.



Pointing out the dent in the right front.


Then I went looking for trouble spots and found plenty.  A bunch of holes along the left side along the bottom.

A replacement (used) tank is the better part of $400, so I'm sending this one to a friend of a friend to be repaired.

Nothing to do but move on and try to get something done. Cleaning up the hardware to be sent off to be zinc-plated. Left bin are parts to be degreased, middle is parts needing to be wire brushed, right are finished ones. All done now, just need to box it up and send it off.



Gathered all of the chrome bits together (along with a few V7 Sport bits) to shoot photos to send to several chrome platers so I can get estimates.



Some bits I may not send (spring retainers, heat shield) and other still require some work before they go (holes filled that someone drilled in the shift lever, removing the terminal block, mounts and dents from headlight bucket).

[Groover]

Looking forward in seeing the re-zinced parts. And the paint job as well. Will the painter redo the stripes, or are those decals?

Edit: Looks like paint, just looked closer.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Looking forward in seeing the re-zinced parts. And the paint job as well. Will the painter redo the stripes, or are those decals?

Edit: Looks like paint, just looked closer.

The painter I'm thinking of using will do the stripes in paint, same as the originals, only a little better. You can definitely tell they were applied by hand originally, perhaps after a bit too much vino.  I'm hoping the non-faded area behind the "3 1/2" sidecover badges will be sufficient for a good color match.

[Groover]

Your lift there where the painted parts are sitting on almost looks like a color match! 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Your lift there where the painted parts are sitting on almost looks like a color match! 

It does, doesn't it! It's almost "Chevy Orange" or "Gravely Red" too. 

[SIR REAL ED]

Pulled the tank down off the shelf and remove the badges from it and the sidecovers so I could take some photos to send to the shop I'm thinking about using for paint this time. Pins apparently were broken off the badges (common) so they were stuck in place with some sort of adhesive.



Pointing out the dent in the right front.


Then I went looking for trouble spots and found plenty.  A bunch of holes along the left side along the bottom.

A replacement (used) tank is the better part of $400, so I'm sending this one to a friend of a friend to be repaired.

Nothing to do but move on and try to get something done. Cleaning up the hardware to be sent off to be zinc-plated. Left bin are parts to be degreased, middle is parts needing to be wire brushed, right are finished ones. All done now, just need to box it up and send it off.



Gathered all of the chrome bits together (along with a few V7 Sport bits) to shoot photos to send to several chrome platers so I can get estimates.



Some bits I may not send (spring retainers, heat shield) and other still require some work before they go (holes filled that someone drilled in the shift lever, removing the terminal block, mounts and dents from headlight bucket).

Charlie,

What is the recommended method for fixing a tank like this? Solder?

thanks,

Ed

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Charlie,

What is the recommended method for fixing a tank like this? Solder?

thanks,

Ed

It's going to a "metal man" to have the perforated section cut out and new metal welded in. Soldering it would just be a "band-aid" fix IMO.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

No photos this time around. I guess I could have taken some of the boxes ready to ship. 

Tank is off to Wisconsin to a friend of Mark's to be repaired. Hardware is off to Parker Metal Finishing in NC to be replated in "trivalent clear chromate", except for the voltage regulator cover which will be done in "trivalent yellow chromate". Box of bits stowed in the van to be dropped off at the powdercoater for wrinkle black. Once the frame repairs are finished, then I'll take it and the rest of the misc. chassis bits in. I can't decide between "Jet" (satin) or gloss. Leaning towards the latter.

The new headpipes and exhaust nuts I ordered on Dec. 15th are stuck somewhere in Post Italiane purgatory. Tracking shows them being in the same facility waiting to move to the next since Dec. 17th.  Marino Setti is doing his best to find out WTH is going on.

Edit: I guess the log jam finally broke free at Post Italiane. Tracking shows my parcel as being moved through Customs in NY! Finally! Moral of this story: don't order anything from Italy until well after the holidays.

Need to place another order with Mdina Italia (fork tubes and sprockets), but I'm having a hard to clicking on the "Place Order" button. My credit card screams every time I get ready to. 

[SIR REAL ED]

It's going to a "metal man" to have the perforated section cut out and new metal welded in. Soldering it would just be a "band-aid" fix IMO.

Agreed.  I was curious since you mentioned using a sealant on a Gravely tank with pinholes in another thread that maybe there might be a magical fix out there somewhere that did not require surgery.

I'm sure some will swear by JB Weld, but that is also a band-aid.  When it comes to containing gasoline above a hot engine, fixing it right makes a lot of sense.  Solid metal is peace of mind.

[SIR REAL ED]

Need to place another order with Mdina Italia (fork tubes and sprockets), but I'm having a hard to clicking on the "Place Order" button. My credit card screams every time I get ready to. 

I know the feeling.  If money wasn't involved, the project fun would never end.

That little bike won the lottery when you bought it.  No doubt you gave it more love and attention to detail than the Moto Morini production workers.

I figure my little Guzzi project bike is topping out at about $1400.  Not a bad price for a few giggles and a lot of fun.

[Groover]

I think gloss frame would be my vote on that one. In case you are taking votes .. 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Agreed.  I was curious since you mentioned using a sealant on a Gravely tank with pinholes in another thread that maybe there might be a magical fix out there somewhere that did not require surgery.

I'm sure some will swear by JB Weld, but that is also a band-aid.  When it comes to containing gasoline above a hot engine, fixing it right makes a lot of sense.  Solid metal is peace of mind.

If this was just going be some "rider quality" Morini, I'd would just seal it and forget it. But, this will be an almost complete restoration and I want it to be as well done as possible. I'll still be sealing the tank after the repairs have been made. 

[canuck750]

If this was just going be some "rider quality" Morini, I'd would just seal it and forget it. But, this will be an almost complete restoration and I want it to be as well done as possible. I'll still be sealing the tank after the repairs have been made.

I bet it will be more than 'an almost complete restoration' - more like a complete resurrection.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I bet it will be more than 'an almost complete restoration' - more like a complete resurrection.

I wrote it that way because I won't be refinishing the wheels and the mufflers will sport their (imperfect) original chrome plating. A few other bits will just be cleaned up and reused as well.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I contacted the o.e. supplier of the seat (Nisa) about a cover and they responded that they can supply a new cover just like the original. I'll be ordering one.

[SIR REAL ED]

If this was just going be some "rider quality" Morini, I'd would just seal it and forget it. But, this will be an almost complete restoration and I want it to be as well done as possible. I'll still be sealing the tank after the repairs have been made.

Very cool to see what can be done when one wants it "right!"

A friend recently bought a restored BMW for abut $12,000.  He said "I paid about $4,000 more than any other similar Beemer I have seen, but I know the guy who did the restoration, he does first class work, and I know he has about $25,000 into it!"

Sounds like the ultimate fun, if one has the funds or has customers who have the funds.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The new headpipes and exhaust nuts I ordered on Dec. 15th are stuck somewhere in Post Italiane purgatory. Tracking shows them being in the same facility waiting to move to the next since Dec. 17th.  Marino Setti is doing his best to find out WTH is going on.

Edit: I guess the log jam finally broke free at Post Italiane. Tracking shows my parcel as being moved through Customs in NY! Finally! Moral of this story: don't order anything from Italy until well after the holidays.

The box with my headpipes is now on it's way back to Italy!  They made it through Customs and were due to be delivered here today. But, I got an "Exception Notice" this morning that "due to an incomplete address" they couldn't be delivered and were being returned.  I contacted the USPS "Customer Service" twice in an effort to have them stop the package from going back, but to no avail.

Marino is sending another sets of 'pipes and header nuts out tomorrow.

[SIR REAL ED]

In the last photo, the left set were vapor blasted by the customer, the right set (mine) were High-Volume, Low-Pressure bead blasted.

Charlie,

After the cases are bead blasted or vapor blasted, with they be treated in any way to prevent future corrosion/preserve that "like new" look?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Charlie,

After the cases are bead blasted or vapor blasted, with they be treated in any way to prevent future corrosion/preserve that "like new" look?

I haven't found it to be necessary.

[SIR REAL ED]

I haven't found it to be necessary.

Good to know.  Thanks.  Back in the 70's, I loved Kalgard's Gun Kote. 

Super durable and color was dependent on number of coats.  A couple light coats were not even visible.

[canuck750]

Good to know.  Thanks.  Back in the 70's, I loved Kalgard's Gun Kote. 

Super durable and color was dependent on number of coats.  A couple light coats were not even visible.

After vapour blasting and once I have finished assembling the engine / hub / etc... I wash down the exposed alloy with brake cleaner and then spray on a mist of ACF-50. I buy the ACF-50 in a 1 gallon bulk container (will last a life time) and pour it into a mister bottle, hand mist the part and then with a clean rag wipe it down. In a couple days I wipe down the part again and then just leave it. Once coated the part will resist oxidation for a very long time, probably good for a couple years of riding and washing.

[SIR REAL ED]

After vapour blasting and once I have finished assembling the engine / hub / etc... I wash down the exposed alloy with brake cleaner and then spray on a mist of ACF-50. I buy the ACF-50 in a 1 gallon bulk container (will last a life time) and pour it into a mister bottle, hand mist the part and then with a clean rag wipe it down. In a couple days I wipe down the part again and then just leave it. Once coated the part will resist oxidation for a very long time, probably good for a couple years of riding and washing.

Thanks Jim.  Good to know.  I have done the same with WD-40, Amsoil MP, or some of the gun spray oils.  Although it seems ACF-50 is the cat's meow!

Impressive:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdGtorJuE50

What is your preferred cleaning chemical for bare aluminum cases?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Today is my birthday, so I spent the afternoon and evening working on my project for once. Managed to get the "short block", or whatever you want to call it, assembled.

Transmission installed.



Crankshaft assembly and camshaft installed.


Used the special tool to make sure the shift mechanism was aligned correctly. Perfect.


Prepping the right case half.


Seals need to be installed.


But first I wanted to test fit the case to make sure everything was okay. It was.


Seals installed, sealer applied, cases mated.


Locating dowels inserted, everything torqued down.


In the upright stand now.