Author Topic: Revival thread Le Le Le Le MANS ! (Read 8494 times)

1down5up · « **Reply #30 on:** October 26, 2019, 02:36:35 PM »

Quote from: Stevex on October 26, 2019, 09:01:11 AM

Not had a problem since removal and they're tucked away safely in case I ever need them.

Accelerator pumps...with the carbs on the bike and fuel on, I just couldn't get a stream of fuel to come out of the jets no matter how much I twisted the throttle. In the end I removed the carbs, removed the adjusters to check the diaphragms, refitted, manually filled the float bowls and moved the carb levers through full range until the pumps started working eventually, took a while though and no idea why it was so difficult.
Not saying you'll have the same problem, just a heads up.

There is a brass plug on the top of the pump transfer body (triangle casting held on by 3 small screws) which you use for priming the pump, otherwise its trying to suck air through the system until fuel gets up from the bowl

wicks · « **Reply #31 on:** October 26, 2019, 07:22:16 PM »

Ahh interesting. I shall try my luck with priming them via the pump plug while on the bike and see what I see/feel.

Re spring: It seems to me that the shaft springs would actually make throttle pull lighter though only slightly, as they pull the lever toward open, not the other way. Perhaps a PO reversed them on your carbs by mistake?

moto-uno · « **Reply #32 on:** October 27, 2019, 07:42:15 PM »

Just a possible cure for your plugged float bowl passages , when I had nothing to loose I'd carefully drop muriatic acid from a glass eyedropper into the passages . Try not to
spill it on the outside of the bowls or it will blacken the surface . If it bubbles out the other passage it's doing it's job , rinse with lots of water . My experiences with the lighter
throttle springs wasn't as positive as others here , frequently the return to idle was quite hesitant sometimes . (Plumbers frequently use muriatic acid to clean pipes) Peter

moto-uno · « **Reply #33 on:** October 27, 2019, 07:57:46 PM »

Forgot to mention in my earlier post about your concerns over leaking seals after getting it running . Your worst fears are probably going to come
to pass ! That's an awful long time for seals to stay pliable . Lots of good advice here (and good luck) Peter

wirespokes · « **Reply #34 on:** October 28, 2019, 10:34:49 AM »

More often than not, seals have been good on the bikes I've awakened from long sleeps. 20 years ago I got an R90 that had been sitting outside under a tarp for five years. Figured it was good for some parts at best, but when I got it running it settled into a nice even idle right away. So I got it rideable and the trans and final drive were excellent. Took a little polish to the tank and it cleaned up nicely. Damn! Guess it isn't a parts bike! Turned out to be a very good runner, but I did have to replace a lot of seals.

Since then I've recovered many bikes and don't recall any that needed more than one or two seals - a lot of them had no leaks. Of the Guzzis since the first three years ago, I've had to replace a trans output seal in the 87 - a bike that had been ridden somewhat regularly and the PO knew the seal needed replacing. The T3 needed an inner FD seal replaced - it came to me leaking. And finally, the 85 LeMans last run in 1991, now with 1500 more miles, needed the FD large seal to stop a drip on the rear wheel. All the rest are good.

I've heard of numerous BMWs recovered from long sleeps needing no seals or very few. So don't just assume seals will be bad - I've found more often than not, most are still good. Now, if it's run before the seals are lubed (as might have been the case with my first R90 20 years ago before I got this smart) quite possibly there will be leaks. Even a new seal needs a smear of lube when installed. Run dry, I can see how it might not last long.

moto-uno · « **Reply #35 on:** October 28, 2019, 02:23:41 PM »

You've had good fortune and I'm sure the owner hopes for the same . I too would rather be riding
the Le Mans than wrenching on it, :) Peter

wicks · « **Reply #36 on:** October 28, 2019, 02:59:55 PM »

Well if there is any way I can get some lube onto the seals before I start her up - apart from turning the engine to 90 degrees (maybe I could think of some way to do that hah) would welcome any thoughts!

Some seals in the bike are as new, I think it just depends on the materials used. For instance, the original fork seals were pliable as if they were new still. Some others were dry as a triceratops bone as if they had been sitting in the sun for 30 years.

Oh - and thanks for the tip on the float bowls. I did find a NOS pair which are on the way from Wolfgang now, lucky find thanks for the advice there.

wirespokes · « **Reply #37 on:** October 28, 2019, 03:18:03 PM »

Quote from: moto-uno on October 28, 2019, 02:23:41 PM

I too would rather be riding the Le Mans than wrenching on it, :) Peter

Wouldn't we all!

I believe all the seals will get lubed if the gears and oil pump will splash it around at low speed - like moving things by hand. And then what didn't, will when the engine is started up - keep RPMs low. I've run BMWs, with the wet driveline, on the center stand, but have been told this puts a strain on the Guzzi UJoint.

I wouldn't worry about the fork seals, never had a problem with them.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #38 on:** October 28, 2019, 04:13:53 PM »

Quote

apart from turning the engine to 90 degrees (maybe I could think of some way to do that hah) would welcome any thoughts!

It's pretty simple, really. Just take the engine out and turn it over.

wicks · « **Reply #39 on:** October 29, 2019, 11:02:15 AM »

Very funny Chuck. I ordered this AGM battery https://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Crank-ETX30L-Battery.html, which works great, but wondering if there is one slightly less tall (it can be longer), that people know of? The underseat tray doesn't fit over it - the battery needs to be a 1/2 inch shorter or so.

Put the Conti Classic Attacks on. They're very much like superbike tires. I think she's going to love the turns.

wicks · « **Reply #40 on:** October 29, 2019, 01:50:45 PM »

A little plastic bonder to reinforce this side panel mount which was already cracked on top. Hopefully good for another 40 years.

wicks · « **Reply #41 on:** October 31, 2019, 10:26:11 PM »

Sorry Le Mans, I was distracted for a day getting this 1000s tuned up and on the road. Dreams can come true. A 1000s in mint condition with a bit over 1200 miles on the clock. Fired up like clockwork today and an amazing ride just down to the station for a tank of gas. Tonti #3 and the trifecta (triptych) is now complete.

Thanks to Mr. David Swanson for agreeing to part with one of your collection! A real gentleman he is.

moto-uno · « **Reply #42 on:** November 03, 2019, 02:09:41 PM »

You are one lucky camper ! Could this put a damper on getting the Le Mans up and running ? Peter

Motorad64 · « **Reply #43 on:** November 04, 2019, 05:27:21 PM »

Nice bike! Going through a similar process getting my 78 back on the road. Very close!

My float bowls had amazingly tough black stuff bonded to the bottom. I'm guessing long deceased o-ring reduced by old gas. My 77-date coded tires were rotting from the inside out, as well.

Love seeing another one coming back.

Steve...does someone make PTFE lined throttle cables for MG? The now-OEM BMW Mobile Tradition cables are PTFE lined and makes a big difference.

Groover · « **Reply #44 on:** November 04, 2019, 07:26:09 PM »

Little jewelers ultrasonic cleaners will loosen up cruddy stuff in small engines and carbs making them look new. Just a little dish soap does the trick, as some of the dedicated ultrasonic "solutions" will make the aluminum turn dark if run too long. We used to rebuild dozens of small airplane/car/helicopter engines a day when I worked in an R/C warranty department a long time ago, and that was our go-to trick to remove most, if not all buildup on these engines. Might be worth a try on some of these older, stubborn Guzzi carbs.

wicks · « **Reply #45 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:05:47 AM »

OK so I'm not the only one with nuked float bowls! Go the new and carbs are finally done. Just dealing with needing to pull the swing arm to get a new ujoint boot on.

Very interested in anything that lightens the throttle...everythi ng is clean lubed and smoothly routed but wow this is the toughest twist ever!

Quote from: Motorad64 on November 04, 2019, 05:27:21 PM

Nice bike! Going through a similar process getting my 78 back on the road. Very close!

My float bowls had amazingly tough black stuff bonded to the bottom. I'm guessing long deceased o-ring reduced by old gas. My 77-date coded tires were rotting from the inside out, as well.

Love seeing another one coming back.

Steve...does someone make PTFE lined throttle cables for MG? The now-OEM BMW Mobile Tradition cables are PTFE lined and makes a big difference.

wicks · « **Reply #46 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:28:14 AM »

Wait what? Who would make a bike that can't be started up on any of its own stands?

Quote from: wirespokes on October 28, 2019, 03:18:03 PM

I've run BMWs, with the wet driveline, on the center stand, but have been told this puts a strain on the Guzzi UJoint.

wirespokes · « **Reply #47 on:** November 06, 2019, 06:23:49 AM »

Evidently the angle of the swingarm, when on the center stand, is radical enough that the uneven combustion pulses cause a jerky power flow, especially at low RPMs, that's hard on the u-joint.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #48 on:** November 06, 2019, 06:28:58 AM »

Quote from: wicks on November 06, 2019, 05:28:14 AM

Wait what? Who would make a bike that can't be started up on any of its own stands?

Guzzi. Do that at your own peril.

wicks · « **Reply #49 on:** November 06, 2019, 12:37:58 PM »

Wow never heard this before!

Stevex · « **Reply #50 on:** November 06, 2019, 01:43:19 PM »

Quote from: Motorad64 on November 04, 2019, 05:27:21 PM

Steve...does someone make PTFE lined throttle cables for MG? The now-OEM BMW Mobile Tradition cables are PTFE lined and makes a big difference.

Bought my PTFE lined throttle cables from here, just fill in the drop down menus: https://www.venhill.co.uk/

Go here for lighter throttle springs, about half way down, take your pick of weak, medium (and strong) ones:

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/product-category/dellorto-motorcycle-carburettors-parts/carburettor-parts/phf-parts/

wicks · « **Reply #51 on:** November 08, 2019, 12:10:12 PM »

https://vimeo.com/371931430

SHE RUNS!

BUT - the clutch won't disengage at all! Maybe the plate is fused to flywheel? How to break free...

Kiwi Croc · « **Reply #52 on:** November 08, 2019, 03:06:40 PM »

Great bike,you will really enjoy it once it's sorted. One thing i noticed is that the carbs seem to be on the opposite side compared to mine,not that it would make difference other than a slighty straiter pull on the cable.

wicks · « **Reply #53 on:** November 09, 2019, 12:28:52 AM »

I knew that was wrong but somehow brainfreeze set in after sooooo much work. Thanks for pointing out! I thought I was careful to keep the carb parts all paired when rebuilding, couldn't figure out why they would have set them up this way with the cables routing to the outside - seemed totally wrong. Hah, silly!

Thanks for pointing out!

Groover · « **Reply #54 on:** November 09, 2019, 07:31:23 AM »

The dual setup Dellorto carbs have a D or S stamped next to the size. D is for destra (right), S is for sinistra (left)

wirespokes · « **Reply #55 on:** November 09, 2019, 08:47:43 AM »

][ftp][/ftp]

Quote from: Groover on November 09, 2019, 07:31:23 AM

The dual setup Dellorto carbs have a D or S stamped next to the size. D is for destra (right), S is for sinistra (left)

Or you could look at the idle and mixture screws - that's the main difference between a left and right side carb. They need to be accessible.

wicks · « **Reply #56 on:** November 09, 2019, 12:52:30 PM »

Uhhh, I did not get that wrong!!! How would one sync carbs hah. I just fliped the tops while they were on the bench for a month. Fixing now...

Familiar with D/S from old Fellini films. ;)

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Author Topic: Revival thread Le Le Le Le MANS ! (Read 8494 times)