V1000 Poor Warm Start

[moto-uno]

 ^Yeah I'd certainly go with that one . FWIW , I did a hot and cold compression test on my higher mileage Le Mans yesterday ( we're talking over a 100K kilometers ) and to my
surprise the compression was exactly the same at 180 psi both cylinders . Peter

[Chuck in Indiana]

^^^^ I did a leak down of the 100,000 mile G5, and one is 80/75, the other is 80/76.  You can't kill em. 

[ozarquebus]

Finally got around to doing some maintenance on the G5 since the stove installation in the "Bike Shed" had taken precedence. The winner is IGNITION.

 Since my last post, not only had the G5 persisted in the poor warm starting, it had also started running kinda bad and was

producing a huge backfire on startup. Then a loud knock started coming out of the gearbox in neutral which stopped when I pulled in the clutch lever and came back when released. Curtis Harper said it indeed sounded like my hunch it was a throw out bearing and I should not worry about it too much, so I didn't. I flushed the gearbox as best I could and put about a quart of 90w dinosaur oil through it until brown porridge stopped coming out and only new clear oil was running out the side drain. That had to be better.

 Then I checked the points and the top points was off center half way, and the spot where the wires attach with the points leaf spring to the top set had come off halfway causing the mis-alignment. It had a terrible crater in it that I couldn't file out so I changed them out with some new ones from Shorty. The lower gap was tiny about 0.010 instead of the recommended 0.014 to 0.017. The plugs, one platinum and one standard, were also gapped much larger than the spec as well. 
 After regapping everything it ran great and EVEN STARTED EASY WARMED-UP. Thus solving the warm starting issue as I sat out in the cozy and warm, coal-fired shed watching the points sparking in the dark running with the cap removed.          Its a wonder it even ran at all even though I do miss the "44MAG sound level" backfires it had started doing before.
 I let it get good and hot took it for a short ride and and the tranny stopped knocking! The amazing powers of lubrication of oil over oatmeal.
 Will the wonders never cease? That was my best Christmas present

[ozarquebus]

Also while observing the bike starting and running in the dark, the intermittent bad starter circuit relay revealed itself by sparking internally through its clear case when it clicked and failed to engage. I would recommend the light show and fortunately there was no fireworks in the area of the coils or plug wires.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Further to Waynes low Voltage theory, if your bike has that nasty carbon core spark lead that sometimes arcs at the ends burning back up the lead leaving a gap.
I had this occur on my 98 EV
Pull the plug caps off and measure the resistancee from cap to chassis, its typically about 8K Ohms and should be the same on both sides.
If you don't measure this its either an open circuit or the bike has a distributor (distributor always has a gap). You should only have one resistor in each lead, if it has resistor caps (5k) the leads should be copper.

[Two Checks]

The knocking in the tranny was from uneven firing. Out of sync carbs will do it, too.

[ozarquebus]

Lannis,

 That is a good nugget of wisdom on the uneven firing caused by bad points in turn producing the tranny knocking masquerading as a bad throw out bearing.

  I was imagining something like that may have been going on, its nice to hear my guesses are not totally foundless.
 
It is also very nice to be learning the Guzzi is a very tough machine able to withstand previous neglect multiple POs up the line and my blundering through the learning curve.

 It is becoming clear that attempts to fix apparent problems can be wasted effort unless the basic maintenance is in good order. In another more energetic life, I may have needlessly torn down and changed the throw out bearing or even gone into the gear box (shudder) in search of the Tommyknocker in there. Sometimes it is better to be lazy and dumb than overly zippy and too smart.

Life is good in Guzzi-ville for now and I am off to get some plug wires and a pair of matching BP6ES since one plug in there is a B6ES.

[ozarquebus]

oops, sorry, I meant to give Two Checks credit for that wisdom nugget instead of Lannis, but I'll bet he knew that, too.

[chuck peterson]

 

 

That lower, or left side cylinder (sinistre) point gap was probably that small, to advance that side a touch, due to the lack of adjustment on the whole plate for the right side, but...you may not have to do it..

If you got it all up and running good on ya! That's great..

[Chuck in Indiana]

 

That lower, or left side cylinder (sinistre) point gap was probably that small, to advance that side a touch, due to the lack of adjustment on the whole plate for the right side, but...you may not have to do it..

If you got it all up and running good on ya! That's great..

Chuck makes another good point, here. Be sure to *check* timing on both cylinders with a timing light. If not, the timing on the S (Snot dis side) cylinder may be too advanced and make a "ventilation" hole in the piston. Don't ask me how I know..

[Two Checks]

S-sa lefta side.

[ozarquebus]

Dang! This thing is running great and I haven't even fine tuned the timing or changed loose timing chain and damper yet.