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The factory parts manual doesn't show any hose guides on the front fender at all.
Well, can't find the brackets anywhere so I guess I'll just move on until a pair shows up somewhere. I thought about cutting and bending the two that I have but it is unlikely I'm skilled enough to pull that one off.I have the single caliper working reasonably well, but the linked brakes are a problem. The rear caliper has a leak and I've taken it apart numerous times but I don't see anything and I don't quite know what to do about this one. Guess I'll take it apart again and pull the plunger to see if there is something in there; guess that is the risk one takes when purchasing used calipers on eBay though these two looked perfectly fine when they arrived. The drip is very minor, but obviously this won't fly.
Well, can't find the brackets anywhere so I guess I'll just move on until a pair shows up somewhere. I thought about cutting and bending the two that I have but it is unlikely I'm skilled enough to pull that one off.
The agony of chasing leaking Brembo calipers , I can relate, both of the twin bleeder calipers I put on my Ducati 860 GT bike wept from the caliper body joint, the little O ring is the culprit. On both Brembo calipers the stock O ring that came with the new Brembo seal kit did not seal correctly. I have a big box of these calipers disassembled awaiting refinishing and looking at half a dozen the depth of the recess that takes the O ring is inconsistent on these calipers, the machining is all over the place. On one pair I had to fit a larger O ring and a smaller O ring on the other. I would start with checking the O rings, very rare to find a leak between the pistons and the caliper flat O ring seals.
Check Harper's - Curtis is listing used oneshttp://www.harpermoto.com/?subcats=Y&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=55436525&dispatch=products.searchHOLDER (#55436525) USED ONLY = $4.00TLM shows the picture for this part but unfortunately not in stockhttps://shop.tlm.nl/en/nla-guide-brake-cable-554365250000-moto-guzzi
I spent hours trying to bleed my linked brakes. I had installed a rebuild kit in the rear master cylinder and was convinced it was okay. Finally I ordered a new rear master and bled the system in 15 minutes.
Looks great, Blackcat! I've got a cranks-but-won't-start issue, myself. Have been slammed with covid work and hoping to have Dr Mullendore take a look as she's 95% together. Want to get her running prior to finishing up the fairing mount, new grips, etc. Mine appears to have decent spark, fuel flowing well through new taps, super clean carbs, etc. I regrouped and rebuilt the switchgear, re-traced the wiring and connections with my G.Bender cheatsheet and cleaned up all the routing, re-checking old photos to keep things as as-original. As people have said: there is a sh**load of wiring for 1978 considering no FI/electronic anything.One thing I DO appreciate is the ease of taking the tank on and off. I've also learned that the blue fuel line leaks when new but seems to get some grip on the spigots after gas exposure
Nice...! Glad you've got yours running. Sounds like your just waiting on parts. Charley is great, but in high demand. And people keeping giving him projects that are more fun than LeMans wiring. Thought of offering him a 12-pack of TP...quilted, double roll--the good stuff. I have a feeling it would take him 10 min to figure out something I had bass ackwards. I pulled my taps to check as well--I'd had my tank RedKoted since it was super clean inside and want to keep it rust free. No schmutz. Curious how she runs. Charley suggested keeping jetting from the PO to see how it runs. Has a B10 cam. Haven't decided on original velocity stacks or K&N style filters. - K5 Needles- 152 main- 265 atomizer- 60 Idle
Look into the carb from the open end and see if the slide rises when the idle screws are turned in. If not try cutting a few coils off the idle screw spring so that the idle screw can travel further into the carb body, that may help
Thanks, I have located a pair of hose holders and a foot peg holder so I believe that i'm done with the missing parts. I even located a pair of NOS velocity stacks, which weren't cheap but I got them.I'm still fighting with getting it to run right but I'll get it eventually. This is about it for now. Once it gets going I have to take the side panels back for some touch ups and the inside of the fairings needs paint. Oh, and the headers which I still haven't received from Teo Lamers. And then there is the Euro headlight bucket which I have no idea where that thing is at, ordered it a month ago but it is missing in the US customs void.
I've given up, those carbs are possessed so I purchased a pair of period correct carbs from MG Cycle which should be here on Tuesday. Right now I've got the 36's from my 1000S on the bike with the K-5 needles and the same slides that were in the old carbs. Started right up and I got it to idle in a few minutes. Just got back from the DMV and now it's finally titled and tagged.
You made the right decision, I wasted a year trying to get the same carbs to function on my Laverda SF1 and now have a Frankenstein pair of 3/4 new ~ 1/4 old Dellorto monsters that still won't idle correctly no matter what I try, I know I will end up just buying a new pair.
Fingers crossed this does the trick for you. I think it will.I fought a carb problem on my chopper project for over a year. I had performed what I thought was a good refresh of the old S&S B carb but just couldn't get it to idle properly. I chased everything imaginable down for months. Finally I ponied up and bought a NOS S&S B carb and I was immediately rewarded with this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUOH9ZLXt4M
I routed my hoses as below after studying period pics and how they came from the PO. I may have an original under tank loop if you come up empty. why do insurance companies ask for mileage
I'm missing those brake hose holders for my Le Mans. Any idea where I can get some?
I'm having one of those times trying to get the bike started. I installed a Dyna and everything went fine, then it was only sparking on one side so I installed the points, then they weren't working right either. Turns out the pin to the distributor gear sheared off which gave me some worry for a minute until I found the head on top of cam gear. Installed a roll pin to anchor the gear, re-installed the dizzy, set up the points as best I could as I haven't done this in like 15 plus years. I have spark to both plugs but no start. Not even a burp. Sprayed some starter fluid in both carbs but that didn't do much of anything but ignite on the first stroke and that was about it. Going to start all over again tomorrow with the installation of the distributor as per Guzziology and go from there. As per Haynes, I have the points opening at the retard line and I've incrementally moved the distributor in both directions but nothing. I'm wondering if I should use a degree wheel to check the cam timing as this isn't a stock cam in the bike.
I am in exactly this position now with Brad's (Motorad64) Le Mans. Been through everything, now looking at cam timing which is totally off for some reason. The cam is a regrind of unknown origins, so is suspect. I'll be swapping in a stock Le Mans cam to see what valve timing is with that as a "baseline".
I've printed out Pete's written explanation and I have the shop manual but I have to think about whether I want to do this work. I was just going to put tin foil in an outside gas grille and bring it up to 250 degree's as I don't want to put it in the house oven. Need a HF two arm puller but I don't know why a slide hammer puller is needed as per a This Old Tractor special tools list.
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