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Be sure of what you have 1st, take off fill cap on rear drive and count the teeth looking down the hole.I change as a set, both. Then there will not be ground up metal in your trans. If you pull the pinion up & out, don't loose the washer on the ledge it rides in.
When I changed my 01 EV to 7/33 I only changed the speedo pinion from a 10 to an 11. I since then installed a VDO electronic speedo. You must be careful of the washer on the bottom of the pinion.
OK, thanks. You are the third to say I can just change the pinion so third time is the charm. The set I ordered is coming from India so it may take awhile and I won't pull mine until I have the 11 tooth in hand, and I'll watch out for the bottom washer. Makes me wonder why no one sells just the pinion gear.
Are you sure you have a 10 tooth now?
I haven't taken it out, Wayne, but everything I read says the bike originally came with 8/33 gearing and was changed to 7/33 gearing (verified by counting the teeth on the final drive pinion) and the speedometer reads 80 MPH at 60 MPH and the odometer reads high also, so I think it is a safe assumption that it still has a 10 tooth pinion. I may be surprised when I do take it out, though; this bike has had a number of changes made to it before my time.
As in, my 2004 EV came stock with a 9 tooth, and I switched to a 10 tooth.But, I think that is an ITI speedometer difference, versus your Vaglia speedometer. So you may have a 10 and need to go to 11. Maybe. Not that hard to pull and inspect. Just get a good light and mirror to make sure the washer (IF you have one) stays in place.
Hi Phil warner. I am in the process of changing my 1998 cali ev sidecar rig from 8/33 rear drive to 7/37. Nearly finished a small gearbox to slow down the speedo cable input by 15/17 x 15/17 to compensate when I discovered that the angled drive into the standard speedo steps up buy 8:7. If you have the same setup, you could try removing the angled drive and instead drive the speedo directly with the cable. This should bring 20 mph per 1000 revs in top gear down to 17.5 mph. Hope this helps and is not too late!
Hi,The small rusty allen head bolt is one of two that pull the cover up towards the dash and pull the speedo case down through the dash holding everything secure. It looks as is a previous owner has been unable to remove the rusty one and broken part of the case away instead to let them get the case off. If you remove the other one the case will slide down a bit. If you then squirt some wd40 around the rubber seal (use a small screwdrive to lift the seal to let the wd40 penetrate right around until the speedo can slide upwards. Once you do this it is much easier to undo the knurled nut retaining the speedo cable. I was doing just this last night on my bike! The angled drive is retained with two small bolts and a semi-circular retaining clip. Once these are off the angled drive can be pulled off. Watch out for one part of the worm drive disappearing across the garage. The two bolts need to be replaced to retain the works inside the case but check their length as they look like they would bottom out if you omit the clip. On mine the loose worm had 7 teeth and the driving worm has 8.Best of luckAndrew
Philwarner,Yes, mine is exactly the same as those pics. I forgot to mention the two different end types. An adapter could be made using a short length of metal tube crimped at each end to suit the two different shapes and epoxied onto the speedo one. Are your two cogs 8 and 7 teeth?
Hi again. Very sorry but I have dropped a bollock here. My angle drive is in fact 7 to 7, I.e. direct not 8 to 7 as stated earlier. I put some red ink on one tooth and proceeded to start and finish on the mark getting 8! One a positive note I have counted the input shaft turns on my m.p.h. speedo and it is about 1600 turns per mile. This is the same ration as 1000 turns per km on the k.p.h. speedos and why both kph and mph bikes have the same 5 to 10 tooth (or 11) speedo cable drive gears at the gearbox end. Sorry to send you on a wild goose chase!Andrew