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Hey Cliffrod, Thank you so much for sharing that information, I'll be filing all of this and it will be my "go to" baking reference I wasn't aware of the relationship between biscuits and dumplings, and now at least, I have an idea what all those different types of flours are about. there are lots of variations, but the are similarities because of the shortened aspect of the dough. Yorkshire Pudding using the rendered fat from the roast beef is similar. They aren't formal dumplings or biscuits, but are close relatives. I just made a huge pot roast with dumplings yesterday, so it will be a while before I do up another batch, but I'll definitely incorporate some of your ideas and guidance going forward. In the interest of managing my food cupboards and kitchen, if possible, I like to use ingredients that I can do many things with, I'd appreciate your thoughts on some of the following. First, I was shocked you never mentioned eggs! I think I've thrown an egg in every dumpling I've ever made; have I been wasting my eggs all this time for no reason,lol?eggs add different proteins plus fat plus water. Left whole and unbeaten, they are more likely to interfere with development of gluten structure. You'll have a tougher product and risk having definitive areas of cooked egg white and/or yellow yolk.If separated and whites are beaten into a meringue and gently folded into a soft batter, they are an effective leavening agent. It's difficult to gently fold beaten egg whites into any dough that's stiff enough to be kneaded.If beaten whole as in an attempt to make meringue, the yolks interfere and limit the amount of potential volume. This helps avoid definitive streaks of egg white or yolk, but leavening potential is limited.Egg yolks contain lecithin, which is a very effective emulsifying agent. This can cause specific effect within a mixture, which may or may not be desired. Unless there's something in a biscuit/dumpling dough that I need to emulsify, I don't need to add it. Add eggs if you like. Lots of variations. I like your idea of keeping it simple, if I understand correctly, when my bag of AP flour & baking powder are finished, a bag of good SR flour is all I need and I'm good to go?yup. I only make SR flour from AP and baking powder when I run out. Otherwise, I keep SR flour on the shelf. I manage my pantry with big glass jars, would 2L glass pickle jars be suitable storage for SR flour or would it be light sensitive?I avoid all glass at all times in a kitchen because glass breaks. When broken with energy (dropped) it broadcasts over a large area and requires everything within radius that is uncovered be discarded. It is a huge liability in a professional kitchen. No need for me to do things differently at home. I cannot afford the risk of wasted product or injury. I have two Purex measuring cups but even those make me uncomfortable. Commercial grade (marked NSF in USA) cookware, small ware utensils and storage equipment is often no more expensive than typical consumer equivalents. Light can be an issue, but probably less so where you live than in a hotter environment. Except for these tin baking powder cans, we use either used restaurant-grade stainless steel hotel pans and containers or new clear plastic commercial grade lexan containers (Rubbermaid, etc). Square/rectangular containers economize space. Uniform sizes share lids and nest when not in use. I decided to start building by kitchen with them and eventually got there, mostly buying used. Takes a while on a budget but IMHO it's worth the effort. I normally have 10% cream and canned evaporated milk on hand, which would be closest to Buttermilk? I have thrown a cup of yogurt in on occasion.Growing up on a dairy farm in VT & SC, I see store-bought "buttermilk" as much different than real buttermilk. As a chef, you adapt to what's on hand. Canned evaporated milk will dilute as desired to the desired fat percentage. 10% cream can also be diluted. Grocery store buttermilk often has very minor fat content, sometimes 0%-2%. I'm a big fan of the flavor added by buttermilk. A small amount of vinegar or lemon juice will acidulate whatever milk is on hand for a basic substitute. Drained yogurt solids are a great alternate ingredient for many uses. The yogurt liquid/whey has use as well, including adding to milk/cream as a way to fake the tangy flavor of buttermilk.....Try your dough with variations of what you have and keep good notes along the way. Find what works for you. I love your idea of the Parmesan cheese, and the fresh spices. I use ground up dry Rosemary and Summer Savory, any other recommendations on spices?I make the dough to appropriate quality without the Parmesan cheese, then mix in approx 1/4-1/3 as much grated cheeses as flour. Parmesan cheese does not interact with the other ingredients in the same way, so doesn't change the dough that much in this situation- especially if mixed in after the dough is made.Parmesan cheese adds salt, so I regularly use it in a range of recipes as a salt trade-off. salt is adjusted down other parts of a recipe. The herbs used range with the meat or flavor I want. I keep dried oregano, dried basil and dried thyme to supplement the same fresh (plus parsley, rosemary and more) that grow well here. In VT, dried herbs were more regularly used. I never have lard or margarine on hand;I have butter on hand, but it's not something I normally use, should I? I use Olive oil, but I could start saving my bacon drippings if it would be a better substitute for lard.the fat used is up to you. That's why I explained my goal of wanting to produce a large quantity of flour coated small lumps of solid fat. One friend makes his biscuits with mayonnaise. A liquid fat changes the waly the dough cooks and leavens. Not right or wrong, just different and maybe desirable. Butter is more difficult to cut into the flour. Chilled from the fridge, it is very hard. It can be diced up to make it easier to cut into the flour, but that's a PIA. It can be warmed slightly to soften, but there's a narrow range between soft and melted. If melted, it works as a liquid fat and things change.I keep a range of fat here, reserved from cooking for cooking. Chicken fat, bacon fat, pork lard, etc. plus unsalted butter, margarine, vegetable oil and good tasting olive oil. most animal fats are more condiment than anything else. Most cooking is done with olive oil, which would be my last choice for biscuit or dumpling dough- as much for flavor as anything else.For flavoring dumplings, I am more likely to use something like bacon fat or chicken in the stew pot to brown/cook the meat and veg. When I add the stock, the fat floats on top. When adding dumplings, submerge them at first. The tops will then be coated with this floating flavored fat. Anything not captured by the tops will still rise to the top of the liquid to be trapped and then incorporated into the underside of the dumpling. The flavor of the liquid fat is captured by the dumpling without compromising the leavening of the dough. With this fat on top, the dumpling tops even brown to a better golden brown. Win, win, win. I know it's a regional thing, but grits & cornmeal are not things I'm real familiar with, I can see the cornmeal adding a nice flavorful touch at the end. I usually just add my potatoes a bit early for the starch, and sometimes add a little oatmeal at the end, I find it it does nice things to a broth.we keep oatmeal and have used it for the same. I usually run it through the food processor first to make it more homogenous when it gelatinizes. Potatoes work fine. Mashed cooked beans work fine. I like the small bits of cooked reconstituted corn a lot. Not like eating whole kernel corn, but more substance than other finer starches. I keep cornmeal to cook and to use as a lubricant on counter & pans when making bread, so it's handy. It's easy to have extra left over and it may have bits of dough in it. If you don't just put it back into the bag, Sweep it into a container and save it to use for thickening like this. You can also save the loose baked cornmeal from the bread sheet pan and use it the same way. It's a cheap way to stretch budget and not waste anything in your kitchen. I just replaced my cook top, repairing my oven is next on the to do list; when it's up and running, the first thing going in it, will be my first ever batch of savory biscuits! its tricky to cook good biscuits on a stovetop or campfire, but I've done it. Keep me posted and ask any questions you have. I'll try to help. Thank you very muchyou're very welcome, sir. Glad this made someone happy! Kelly
Wow. What a lot of good info to incorporate into my biscuit-making.No matter how hard I try, I can't use standard ingredients, and make my biscuits come out tall and fluffy like even KFC or Biscuitville biscuits. But I've got a few different things to try now!Just a detail note ... Whereas pure oils and lard are 100% fat, hydrogenated vegetable shortening is about 70%, and "real" butter is about 80% fat, I think ....Lannis
Hey Cliffrod, I did a big hamburger stew today so I thought I'd post a follow up with my modified dumpling recipe. Roughly as below with some notes. 3 cups flower 3 tblspn baking powder lots of Rosemary 4 tblspns ? thumb width of butter 1/3? cup? sliced/diced cut in with fork 2 tblps vinegar 2 cups ?10% cream very thick, next time add 1/2 water no egg dry dough, spooned grease over dumplings simmered 15 minutes off covered 20 minutes I forgot to add water to dilute the cream, and without my standard oil, I had a very tough time getting my dough wet enough, I kept adding and working it in, that might have toughened the dumplings up a bit; I used up about 2 weeks worth of cream for my coffee in the dumplings, lol, but they came out pretty good if I say so myself. Thanks for your guidance, as I said the proof will be in the dumplings, and a picture is worth a thousand words Kelly
Thanks guys....
Nice post, but I have a couple of quibbles:1. Cholesterol is NOT "...animal fat, nothing more nothing less". Cholesterol is a specific fatty molecule that differs completely from other lipid molecules like triglycerides and phospholipids. It's made by a completely different pathway than these other lipids. All animal cells have cholesterol as a minor component of their cell membranes, and cholesterol is absent from most plant cells. Almost all animals can synthesize their own cholesterol, so it isn't a required dietary nutrient, but it is an essential component of their cell membranes.2. Flour is bleached not by exposure to light. Rather it is exposed to chemical oxidants like "Chlorine Dioxide, Nitrogen Dioxide, Chlorine, Calcium Peroxide, Azodicarbonamide, and Benzoyl Peroxide" (Wikipedia).3. "Alternate flours, like rye..." some alternate flours, including rye, barley, and oats, DO contain glutens.
Keep schooling me-1. Specify the plant sources of cholesterol. The vast majority of "cholesterol-free" assertions are based upon the fact that no animal fats are added to the product. It's a marketing claim directed at people who know no better. That's the entire point of my assertion. 2. Chemical oxidants can be used. Read the label to see what method of oxidation is used. Before the govt created specifc means to address spurious methods and ingredients, Diatomaceous earth was used as an extender for white sugar. Not cool, to say the least. Different oxidation methods produce different peripheral effects, speed of process, etc. tell an average person that something is bleached and they'll think the item was soaked in bleach. Unbleached flour avoids much of this matter....3. Specify the actual proteins present in alternative flours that provide gluten potential. As stated, "gluten" is not a specifc unique molecule or chemical compound like sodium chloride or the oxidizing agents listed above. It is a elastic physical structure created as specific proteins are moistened with water and manipulated. Either you have a physical sensitivity to the elastic gluten structures (which are changed dramatically by cooking process during which the responsible proteins are coagulated), you have specific allergy to the protein(s) present and responsible for gluten potential or both. If you have a true gluten-related medical sensitivity or allergy, it is imperative that you know the true specifics of the matter- not just anecdotal information. I will agree that oat flour (made from wheat) contains glutenin and gliadin. That is obvious.
1. As far as I am aware, no plants contain cholesterol, but many plants contain low levels of related sterols (phytosterols) that apparently can react with our metabolism to lower LDL levels and not affect HDL levels.2. Agree totally.3. To quote from Wikipedia: "Gluten ... is a group of proteins, called prolamins and glutelins, which occur with starch in the endosperm of various cereal grains....It is found in ... wheat species and hybrids, (such as spelt, khorasan, emmer, einkorn, and triticale), barley, rye, and oats....Prolamins in wheat are called gliadins; in barley, hordeins; in rye, secalins; and in oats, avenins. These protein classes are collectively referred to as gluten. Wheat glutelins are called glutenin. True gluten is limited to these four grains. (The storage proteins in maize and rice are sometimes called glutens, but they differ from true gluten.)"
A man's got to know his limitations
I make a trip every so often (now every 2 weeks) to this little Baker that was educated in France.The Griso and I get at least 5 loaves when we go. Three olive, a ciabatta, a blue cheese and walnut usually. I have to wait to St Paddy's day for Irish soda bread.They last about a week and a half.I'm glad I put the alum panniers on the Griso. The rides take at least 45 minutes of windy country road each way in the Sierra Foothills. (it's been known sometimes to take hours)
Cliffrod,many thanks for an inspiring thread, that, for me as for others here, also evokes childhood memories.Your educational explanations of what happens during baking and cooking were particularly useful.Something good has come out of this for me: Craving fresh bread I've started baking, but so far only the befitting lazy man's bread Flour, nuts, oatmeal, seed, dry yeast and water stirred, poured in loaf tins for leavening cold overnight and then baked.I admit it's far from the really good homemade bread you advocate, yet it's good to vary bit, and it's good in its own way.
^ Thanks for your kind words, Cliffrod! I'm definitely interested in your recipe for the artisan bread on page 1 (inserted below), for a day I feel extra energetic! I'm used to metric recipes, but I guess I can simply take a not-too-big cup and measure away.Then I'm not familiar with your granulated yeast, and doubt if I can get it here. How about using dry (powdered) yeast instead?And - 1 1/2 tbs of salt, are you sure about that?3 cups lukewarm water1 1/2 tablespoon granulated yeast (1 1/2 packets)1 1/2 tablespoon kosher or other coarse salt6 1/2 cups unsifted unbleached all purpose flour, measured with the scoop-and-sweep method.
Cliffrod,You have a wealth of good information on baking; my wife has been making artisanal bread for the last few years, using the "no-knead" process, and all done by hand. Lots of time (2 days) are needed to make 2 round loaves, but the result is wonderful.She uses bread flour, sometimes with a blend of rye flower, or a mix of unbleached and whole grain.Since we are from Italy, and flour there goes by the grade "00" or Manitoba, we would like to know:What are the US equivalents for 00 and Manitoba?Also, where can you buy fresh (cake) yeast? It used to be available in all supermarkets back in the '70s, but now, you can only get dry, powdered yeast, either the instant or regular kind. In Europe fresh yeast is still available in any grocery store.Thanks,VB
The following should be close if not fully correct. 00 refers to the mesh of the grind. Pretty typical for pasta dough in Italy. Rough equivalent in terms of mesh or grind is what would is sold as Pastry Flour here in the states. The problem is Pastry flour is usually very low protein (low gluten potential, to produce tender product) so isn't an equitable substitution. All purpose flour would be a closer equivalent in terms of protein to 00, but would equate to what is sold as 2 in Italy which is a larger mesh. It's my understanding that Italian flour was milled to a given mesh more as a trade method of identification for intended use than an indication of protein content & gluten potential. Totally different approach than some others cuisines.Manitoba is a general trade name/term for farina flour, a hard winter wheat flour that is very high in protein so it has more gluten potential. It's often blended with lower protein flour to raise gluten potential. The prefix W in a flour name is indicative of flour enhanced with Manitoba flour. You may be able to purchase what is labeled high gluten flour that has a 15% protein content, typical for making bagels and some specialty breads. That would be a W or Manitoba product. That's what I used making bagels. Otherwise, use a good bread flour that will normally be in the minimum 12.5%-13% range. We rely upon King Arthur Bread Flour and are very happy with it. In my experience, most bread products do not benefit from using high gluten flour. It works, but 13%-14% flour is a better option than 15%.True bagel dough uses very little yeast. A regular batch of plain bagel dough was 100 pounds of high gluten flour, 50 pounds water, 8 pounds sugar, 1 pound kosher salt(iirc) and 1 pound fresh yeast. So that's 159 lbs of product being leavened by 1 pound of fresh yeast (with significant inherent water content). So there needs to be a significant gluten structure to capture every bit of leaving gases produced by the yeast. Most breads have a much greater yeast ratio and much less sugar, so that extra 1-2% of protein isn't needed. If available at a supermarket, Fresh yeast cakes are usually very well hidden near the fresh butter. Look close to the Plugra or European style high fat butter. If they carry that, there's often fresh yeast nearby in small 1 ounce foil-wrapped packages that look like a butter pat at a restaurant. Bigger 1 pound blocks can be purchased through a professional food service like Sysco or US Foods if you have access. Sometimes a local food coop or farmer's market will have such a connection. Brewer's yeast is different, but you may even find a local craft brewery that can connect you with a resource for regular fresh yeast. I find it's hard to find fresh yeast that's actually fresh- it's usually old, flexible and rubbery instead of firm and brittle like fresh yeast should be. Most regular stores don't sell enough fresh yeast to keep stock rotated. That's why I buy Fleischman's or Saf T instant yeast in vacuum packed 1 pound foil bags. it's more consistent and durable.Hope this helps, VB.
It sure does, Cliffrod. Through repeated experimentation, we concur with you that the King Arthur line of flours and the SAF powdered yeast make excellent dough time after time.For pizza dough, however, we have relied on the imported Caputo brand from Italy, which tends to show consistent results. This brand is only available online.
We hadn't had biscuits this week. so after all this bread threadin', its biscuit time.Measure SR flour into bowl. Between 2 1/2-3 cups, guesstimate, to make 8 3 1/2" X 1" breakfast sandwich-sized biscuits. Reserve <1/2 cup flour to add later. Oven is already preheated to 500F conventional. Margarine and buttermilk are waiting on board.Scoop 1/3- <1/2 cup (guesstimate) of margarine with masher, drop into center of flour.Cut fat (margarine) into flour. It only takes a few mashes to cut flour into small pieces and minor simultaneous "mixing" to ensure all are covered with flour. As soon as the largest remaining pieces of fat are approx the size of a fresh green pea, I stop.Make well in center of flour-fat mixture. Add approx 3/4 cup buttermilk to well.i mix all together using a fork to stir dry ingredients towards center into buttermilk while turning the bowl as needed. I try to keep fork relatively dry at first until good incorporation is achieved. Then I turn all together enough times to equalize the dough. I'm looking for consistent and uniform incorporation, not a single unified mass of dough. If sides of bowl,are basically dry but not perfectly clean, liquid ratio is good. It's better to have to add a little liquid than to try to work in more flour. The excess water will evaporate and actually makes biscuits a little lighter and crispier. More flour wreck ratio of flour-fat and leads to more gluten potential.Dump/spread just more than half of the reserved flour onto work surface (I do it on the actual baking sheet, one less thing to clean) and turn dough out of bowl onto flour. If ratios are good, bowl should be very clean but not perfectly clean. See pic-Put most of the remaining flour on top. Then knead together 3-4 times, turning and folding the dough as majority part of the kneading process. Don't knead it like bread dough. Simply incorporate it into a single, uniform mass. It shouldn't be stuck to the work surface. There should still be a light layer of loose flour underneath, separating dough from work surface.With my fingers, I press dough into a uniform thickness, approx 3/4"-1" thick. Using a rolling pin is fine but I like feeling the dough to monitor condition. It should be very delicate and soft, almost puffy. Using my fingers also also allows me to shape the dough into a shape facilitating cutting biscuits with less scrap. More working of scraps=more kneading= more gluten potential. Rolling dough with rolling pinusually means more scrap to reassemble and work, resulting in a greater number of tougher biscuits.Thickness is relevant to my desired result. My largest biscuit cutter is 2 3/4" diameter. I cut 6 biscuits before assembling the scraps for the final two biscuits. Then 1 is cut. The last one is formed by hand.Biscuits are arranged in staggered position because I want them to nest & cook together for softer edges. For,crispy biscuits, I would keep them well separated. Then I gently flatten them with my fingers to approx 1/2" thick to make them larger, approx 3" in diameter. (This flattening is typical to do with yeast dough sandwich buns, so,they aren't just super balls..). Uniform thickness means uniform bake. Dust the tops with remaining flour and place in HOT 500F oven.My wife says "aren't you going to take pics and tell them about the rest of breakfast?"On the stovetop are hash browns. After turning on the oven and beforei start the biscuits- Three medium potatoes, large grated on the old flat cheese grater like typical pizza cheese. Grate into bowl (actually used this biscuit bowl before doing biscuits). Add a little salt. Mix and let rest for a couple minutes. Medium-medium high heat burner with cast iron skillet and a little left over vegetable oil. Potatoes oxidize and turn brown. No worries- they turn back to proper white color as they cook. Squeeze out excess water. Layer squeezed grated potatoes into pan. Long, slow even sizzle. Adjust heat (usually down) to avoid burning. Add a little extra oil around edges of needed. Turn once or twice after initial browning. They should hold together but will still be a challenge to turn in one piece. If they stick like crazy, they aren't browned/caramelized yet. Slow cook and even sizzle makes great hash browns. Fast cook high heat burns them.Next to the hash browns is some leftover ham, not proper country ham but our favorite Cade's Cove ham from Lenoir City, TN-Beat a few eggs (4). When ham is done, make eggs for biscuits. 8-9 piecesIf you're busy at the stovetop while something is in the oven instead of being far away from the stove, it's easier to keep track of what's happening. Looks like biscuits are ready. If undercooked, they fall apart. (Wet, soft) if overcooked, they go from brittle and shatter to hard. These are great moderate gold showing through raw flour on top-Add a pat of margarine to each to flavor and limit moisture loss. I use unsalted, but using salted butter/margarine gives more flavor more quickly when eaten because salt is left on surface to be tasted. As it melts, the true color is better revealed.Time to eat. Happy daughter. Happy wife. Life could be a lot worse.That's enough editing.... Time to finish my last biscuit and try to get some paying work done. Hope this helps with your biscuit (and dumpling) dough adventures.
I made a new mistake this morning. It was instructive and good to add to this biscuit lesson. In the end- if you're not happy with your biscuits after making your own SR flour from AP + baking powder, consider purchasing premixed SR Flour before accepting defeat. The same recipe and technique may produce much different results. This is why chefs are often inflexible and anal about the ingredients, products and equipment they use. Small changes can yield significantly different results, so any changes need to be proofed before they can be trusted in service.