V7II engine switches off then won’t start

[Kiwi_Roy]

I haven't seen a picture of the switch before, it looks exactly like the the switches they used back in the 2000 era
You don't have to remove the lock assembly, just undo the two Phillips screws you see in Malik's pictures.
I have seen quite often the wires breaking at the solder joint thats a weak point, When you put it back together fasten the cable at the rear entry point so it cannot twist at the solder point.
The switches are lubricated with Petroleum jelly, after a few years this grease goes hard and tends to hold the contacts apart, clean the old stuff out and replace with fresh Vaseline.
Release the clips and the white backplate will tilt out, its a very simple device and almost impossible to assemble incorrectly, if the contacts are burnt or melted into the plastic you may be able to use another pair.
I took mine apart, there's only one pair of contacts in the V7iii at least.
If you have to resolder a wire try to do it quickly so the plastic doesn't get too hot and melt.
When you put it back on the bike arrange the loom so it bends gently over several inches not at one spot.

[greer]

Please keep us posted Gioco, hope you can manage this at home without a trip to the shop.

My Nevada sounds like a prime candidate for this issue, so I'll check my wiring for kinks and stress points just as advised.  Thank you all for the pictures and detailed explanations, please know that your efforts are surely appreciated.

Sarah 

[M0T0Geezer]

Now for something completely different:

Make sure your sidestand is not partially self-lowering or otherwise failing to go into (or remain) in a fully retracted state.  This can be due to a weak spring or lack of lubrication, or both.  That will definitely, and intermittently, stop your engine.  Also check the sidestand position sensor switch and associated wiring.

This happened to me.

'Geezer

[Gioco]

I had to tow the bike to the MG dealer with road assistance at the end. 

The dealer said it’s the ignition switch and he ordered a new one, and that it is a recurring problem. He said it’s most likely faulty at the point where the cable enters the lower part of the ignition switch but you can’t see that with naked eye (and I did not have the nerve or the skill to experiment with this by myself trying to get the bike going to ride to the dealer all alone.

I also could not find a position to steady the cable entering the ignition switch in a way that it would keep the electricity on consistently - hence going for the road assistance option. The problematic cable is the one above of the bundle.

[sign216]

Gioco,
I wish you the best of luck.  Really.

My '65 Sears/Gilera doesn't have an ignition lock, or a fork lock.  Doesn't even have an ignition switch. 
Just kick it and go.

Ah, the good old days.

Joe

[malik]

If you pay the very little more for the lock set, you will end up with one key again instead of an inconvenient two. When my ignition failed, there were no ignitions in the country, but there were locksets. Check out the current prices.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Please keep us posted Gioco, hope you can manage this at home without a trip to the shop.
My Nevada sounds like a prime candidate for this issue, so I'll check my wiring for kinks and stress points just as advised.  Thank you all for the pictures and detailed explanations, please know that your efforts are surely appreciated.
Sarah

Yes it is, your bike is getting on in years, assuming the ignition switch moves with the bars that loom has been bending back and forth thousands of times, also the grease in the switch will be fairly hard by now.
If the wiring hasn't been modified the switch passes quite a high current to activate the starter solenoid. It's not just a case of adding a direct feed to the start relay in this case because both NO & NC contacts are used on this bike. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2002_Nevada_series_1.gif
The wires usually snap off right at the solder joint, that is the weakest point. Its very easy to pull the switch off and inspect it there is a plug in an the left side of the steering column and its just a matter of undoing the two Phillips screws to remove the contact block.
I went and pulled the switch of my V7iii just to check I was correct. The V7 switch only has 1 pair of fixed and 2 moving contacts.
I can't see the connector, it must be under the tank but you can make it safe by dropping the negative lead off the battery.
It only took me 5 minutes to remove the switch part leaving the lock behind Turn the bars to full left lock and approach the switch from the RH side, remove the two small black Phillips screws (not the large security bolts)
The rear is removed by poking the 3 clips holding it on, If you want to remove the contact plate look for the 3 clips holding it in place. One of the clips is different from the other two, prize this up carefully with a small screwdriver, the plate will then tilt out.
If you find the grease has gone hard wipe it out and replace with fresh Vaseline.
On re-assembly you will see two small ribs close together on the outer part line up with a bite out of the switch plate.

[malik]

Just checked online with Stein Dinse & TLM, and I stand corrected. TLM has one ignition for the III (2D000351) for 45Eu (bargain) & no locksets, Stein Dinse has neither in stock, but the ignition is 49Eu & the lockset (2B003493) is 182Eu. Different part numbers than the earlier V7's and a very different price for the ignitions alone.

[Andy1]

I would make sure that the dealer returns the old switch to you.  Once off the bike it may be very easy to mend - and it has the same key as your other locks
Andyb

[greer]

^^^Thank you again, Roy!

Please keep us posted Gioco, hope the dealer will get to it straight away.

Sarah

[Gioco]

I took the bike from the dealer today. He ordered a new ignition switch but changed only the electrical part of it which was broken. So I Kept my old keys. He said you can’t order only the electrical part of the ignition switch. Also, that part breaks sometimes and he had 3-4 cases like this before.

Thanks again for all your tips, found great support on this forum!

[greer]

Good! And thanks for the update, Gioco.

Sarah