New Moto Guzzi Door Mats Available Now
.Overall vibrations from bike resulting in fatigue. Feel like hitting the bed after a 80-100 mile run. (maybe typical of Guzzis ?)
The reason you won't find much on Beetle's map for the 15RC is that mostly it is not needed - Guzzi did a very good job on that one. That's also why Beetle's 15RC map is free, he says he.did so little to it, he couldn't justify charging for it, or something to that effect. I took the broken lamba out, replaced it with a sump plug & Beetle's map and everything runs just fine.
Thread drift here (apologies), but.... Malik: what rack is that in the photos you posted? And, especially, details on the pannier racks? Looks like a nice set up.
In the Files Section in Moto-Guzzi-750@groups.io there's the file - Breva 750 How To Throttle Synchronisation. I use that, same motor. Download it & print it out when needed. To control the rpm, I've found Guzzidiag to be more accurate than the analogue tachometer & the GoCruise throttle lock holds the throttle on. I use a set of vacuum gauges, and the manifold adapters I got from my local Guzzi dealer, more or less standard. I found tensioning clips on the hoses can steady the oscillation of the gauge needles, so you can get a steadier reading.
1. Beatle's map for the 15RC works fine. I found the stock map worked fine with different exhausts, too - either a hard reset, or a TPS & auto learning re-set, plus a few hundred Kilometers & it adjusts. I put in Beetle's map in the V7C around about the time my lambda broke a wire, then with the fatter Agostini headers & the Ago mufflers, there is almost no popping, and what is there you have to struggle to hear as its such a low bass note. As it costs only for the cable & donation (convenient to have anyway), I'd recommend you do it.2. The 3-4 min wait - check & clean the high idle lever, and the cable, especially at the bottom RHS of the throttle body. It's getting a bit long in the tooth, a new one might work better. Make sure is all works freely, sometimes it catches against the breather hoses. Also see (4).3. Popping on decel - as well as the map, you must also ensure the exhaust gaskets are good, and the headers are on tight - not letting air leak out. All the other places need checking for leaks - the clamps, the lambda, the rubber manifolds.4. Mildly reluctant throttle response - not normal, check (or renew) the throttle cables, any pay attention to the movement of that disc shaped bit the lower ends of the cables go into. When OK, then - 4.b. Re-set the tappets and do a throttle body balance. (Also requires a TPS reset, and auto learning reset). Improves the throttle response, improves fuel economy, improves running. Probably also fix 5. That smell of fuel.5. Fuel smell on idle - sounds like unburnt fuel - ECU playing silly buggers, perhaps. Happens often on the 1TB because the ECU is responsible for the choke & it over-fuels. Not so much on the 2TB, 'though you may get some with the use of a working fast idle lever. Otherwise, a throttle body balance is your friend.6. Vibrations causing long distance fatigue - shouldn't happen. Sounds like something might be loose, perhaps. Check all the nuts and bolts, especially those on the frame (some are hard to get to, even see). I know where they are, I've had the bike apart - you can get an idea by double checking the spare parts manual. Also the footpegs, pillion pegs (because the mufflers hang off them), the brake caliper bolts and the rotor bolts, the rear shock bolts, and anything else you can find to pass a spanner over. Otherwise, I've found the solo seat more comfortable than the stock dual seat, and there are available plusher versions of both, should you have the money spare. I also regularly do 300-400 mile days in comfort, and have done 550 mile days. I will admit, in the early days, and before I had the pegs & bars set up properly, I did struggle to do 200 miles without stopping. Probably it takes some miles to get properly road-conditioned.
