Author Topic: Norge 8v running rough (Read 5669 times)

jim mac · « **Reply #30 on:** June 22, 2020, 07:38:14 AM »

Quote from: guzzisteve on June 21, 2020, 01:45:31 PM

I would pull the breather cap on RH side and see if that cam jumped a tooth, it does happen. Once compression gets by 80psi it won't run.

I have heard of this before - what causes it ?

guzzisteve · « **Reply #31 on:** June 22, 2020, 10:05:55 AM »

The timing chain tensioner looses it's oil or isn't pumped up soon enough. You get slack in chain and it jumps a tooth. RH side tensioner has a big cap just inside the cylinder on the block.

Bulldog9 · « **Reply #32 on:** June 22, 2020, 11:24:24 AM »

This happened on my Norge, the symptoms were the motor would rev to about 5,500 and then just stall there. Still no idea how or when it happened. I bought the bike that way at an extreme discount with 800-900 miles if I remember.

Odd this would happen simultaneously with a failed fuel injector.

jim mac · « **Reply #33 on:** June 23, 2020, 08:46:16 AM »

ok, sod it !

checked right side for chain sprocket aligning at 6 o'clock at TDC - my straw in the spark plug hole rising up and down is moving freely, chain taught, sprocket aligns

checked left - tappets are not opening or closing at all when i turn the motor via the alternator bolt at front, no movement at all. chain is taught and spins round and my straw rises and falls but tappets dont move at all they are stuck on TDC as they measure 10 and 15 but wont open or shut - what has blown up

MotoG5 · « **Reply #34 on:** June 23, 2020, 09:43:05 AM »

Quote from: jim mac on June 23, 2020, 08:46:16 AM

ok, sod it !

checked right side for chain sprocket aligning at 6 o'clock at TDC - my straw in the spark plug hole rising up and down is moving freely, chain taught, sprocket aligns

checked left - tappets are not opening or closing at all when i turn the motor via the alternator bolt at front, no movement at all. chain is taught and spins round and my straw rises and falls but tappets dont move at all they are stuck on TDC as they measure 10 and 15 but wont open or shut - what has blown up

Something has gone wrong in the cam box. Timing chain and cam drive sprocket are turning but if the valves arn't moving the cam isn't being driven. I cant remember how the sprocket is fixed to the cam shaft from when I did the roller conversion on my Stelvio but I think it is keyed. Your are most likely going to have to drop the timing chain off the drive sprocket and pull it out and see why its not turning the cam shaft.

Brian UK · « **Reply #35 on:** June 23, 2020, 10:48:37 AM »

I'm sure Jim will be along to tell you himself, but it appears that the rockers are not moving on the LH pot, but the chain is tight and turning.
Pin can be seen in place.

PJPR01 · « **Reply #36 on:** June 23, 2020, 10:58:58 AM »

Was the bike running properly prior to taking the tank off? How many miles had it run before the tank was off and any issues noted then of any sort?

Seems an odd coincidence, but may be worth running down, any wires got severely pinched when the tank was re-seated?

jim mac · « **Reply #37 on:** June 23, 2020, 11:16:46 AM »

Couldn't understand the non moving rockers. Went back to it and spotted that I hadn't refitted to bolt to hold the sprocket on the shaft

Tightened it up and rockers moving, set it to TDC a low and behold the chain has jumped

I will do that tomorrow

beetle · « **Reply #38 on:** June 23, 2020, 05:47:08 PM »

Things to think about.

The chain has probably stretched. Check the locator pin hasn't sheared in half.

MotoG5 · « **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2020, 09:50:09 PM »

Quote from: beetle on June 23, 2020, 05:47:08 PM

Things to think about.

The chain has probably stretched. Check the locator pin hasn't sheared in half.

+1 on this advice.

jim mac · « **Reply #40 on:** June 24, 2020, 02:59:45 AM »

Quote from: beetle on June 23, 2020, 05:47:08 PM

Things to think about.

The chain has probably stretched. Check the locator pin hasn't sheared in half.

if you mean the pin n the sprocket it is sound

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #41 on:** June 24, 2020, 04:52:36 AM »

Quote from: jim mac on June 07, 2020, 07:36:31 AM

---------------
Tried it again, turning over a but slower than usual but no start.
----------------

Some of those symptoms could also be due to a flat battery, weak cranking, low Voltage = rough running

jim mac · « **Reply #42 on:** June 24, 2020, 06:24:15 AM »

Quote from: Kiwi_Roy on June 24, 2020, 04:52:36 AM

Some of those symptoms could also be due to a flat battery, weak cranking, low Voltage = rough running

oh no it is not, the saga continues - the pin that holds the chain sprocket in place is loose, fell out when i took the sprocket off - i expect it should have been fixed on the shaft ? it is not broken but is out. i could push it back in but i expect the movement would wiggle it out and let the timing slip again

can someone confirm the pin is fixed on the shaft and not loose - I expect kiwi has answered that and a new shaft is required

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #43 on:** June 24, 2020, 06:29:03 AM »

LOL, I should have read page 2 before I responded.

jim mac · « **Reply #44 on:** June 24, 2020, 06:55:13 AM »

Quote from: MotoG5 on June 23, 2020, 09:50:09 PM

+1 on this advice.

so, the pin is fixed on the shaft and non moveable ?

beetle · « **Reply #45 on:** June 24, 2020, 07:07:59 AM »

Quote

so, the pin is fixed on the shaft and non moveable ?

No. It's not fixed.

The locator pin won't come out if the flinger plate is positioned correctly. That is, the flinger plate must prevent the pin from disengaging from the cam.

jim mac · « **Reply #46 on:** June 24, 2020, 07:09:31 AM »

right, so i have the pin - reinsert and position sprocket at TDC and add there longer plate correctly positioned, no need for new shaft the

beetle · « **Reply #47 on:** June 24, 2020, 07:25:53 AM »

As long as the holes in the flinger plate don't line up with the pin, it won't come out.

You should also consider the possibility that there may be bent valves. I'm not saying that's definite, but one should be cautious.

jim mac · « **Reply #48 on:** June 24, 2020, 11:17:08 AM »

Started up easy, ticking over nicely. Took it for a short run - only prob is the old stuttering at slow etc is back because I have taken off the Finbau and still old map no unusual noises in tickover

Got home and now have a bloody oil leak on right side. Aaaaargh

Zoom Zoom · « **Reply #49 on:** June 24, 2020, 01:55:51 PM »

Finbau?? Enlighten me.

I'm happy you have solved your trouble BTW.

John Henry

Brian UK · « **Reply #50 on:** June 25, 2020, 03:20:47 AM »

Finebau is a UK produced box to fool the ECU, much the same as the Fat Duc though a little more sophisticated.

jim mac · « **Reply #51 on:** June 26, 2020, 07:28:50 AM »

Oil leak was on the pipe attached to the finger cover

Map next

Thanks to all

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #52 on:** June 26, 2020, 07:43:14 AM »

GREAT NEWS!! You will love the map. Be sure to set the valve lash per Roper/Beetle spec of .004" intake and .006 ex. The map is designed for this valve lash.

News:

Author Topic: Norge 8v running rough (Read 5669 times)

beetle

beetle

beetle