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I had an issue one winter day, in late 2018, where I pulled up to my gate after a ride and the bike didn't want to start after I opened the gate. I brought it to the dealer and they checked the the bike over and said they didn't find anything wrong. I haven't had the same issue since. I do run LED running lights on a relay with power direct from the battery, and SkeneDesign LED flashing brake lights that are jumpered into the taillight wires using Posi-Tap connectors.I am nervous about adding heated grips or running my heated vest with this bike so if it is not warm enough to ride without heat I take the Harley out.
As I recall, you had taken the bike to a dealer. You were told the charging system was okay I think. So, did they replace the battery, and do you have the bike back in your hands?
I'm watching my bought in 2018, 2017 Mk3 for issues after reading about your issues. I'm using a voltmeter/USB plug in my accessory port to keep an eye on things - so far so good. Since the charging system allegedly checked out OK I still suspect your battery had a mechanical failure. Have you installed a new one?
Have you performed the startus interuptus fix already? It sounds like that is likely the problem.On my Breva 750 I would have issues like that before the fix.I also run an electric vest and grips on it and have not had the battery go down. I don't have any auxillary lights but still have a halogen headlight bulb and not a LED.
John Henry,Yes, I reluctantly took it to the dealer, they charged the battery but found nothing wrong, No i bought a new battery from them a YTX14H-BS with 240CCA, same physical size as the YTX14-BS at 200CCAI put the battery in service as per the instructions that came with it 1.4 Amps for 6 to 10 hours this is even printed right on the battery. I doubt there is anything wrong with the original battery but I'm just sick of it dying on meThey found the throttle body separated, one of the backfires must have done that.I pulled the charging system apart yesterday and found the alternator is 3 phase not 2 and has what looks like a Shindengen regulator and all the connectors look in great shape, the only thing I never laid eyes on was where the regulator goes to ground but I will investigate that further.I agree you don't need a bunch of LEDs distracting you, the ones I ordered just have a simple digital display, they were dirt cheap so I got two different colours. I'll post a link here if I can find it I think they are a couple of weeks awayYes, see above Where is the accessory port, I haven't spotted that yet?
Here are the components under discussion:19 = Starter 20 = Battery 22 = Fuse block 24 = Regulator 23 = Alternator
The V7 certainly has 'Startus Interuptus" potential, same double coils in the solenoid, I did take a current reading >30 Amps, I suspect its just too new at the moment, I will deal with it when it happens.No one seems surprised that they changed to a 3 phase alternator after 20 years with single phase???If it is a genuine Shindengen regulator I wouldn't worry about that either.
It sounds like you were able to dig the connector out from the top of the steering head behind the gas tank. Mine is really buried in there and long needle nose wouldn't let me grab them. any trick or am I just retarded?
My 2016 MKII also has the 3 phase alternator with Shindegen regulator. On the MKII, you can reach in above the regulator and pull out the connector. I've had a look at the connector a couple of times, and all seems ok (no signs of overheating). I'd be surprised if it was the Shindegen as they are solid.
KR -- thanks for annotating diagram. I forgot about MG's two stage solenoid. According to the MG service manual, your alternator resistances are spot on.Yes the ECU is integrated with the TB. It is a Magneti Marelli MIU G3. According to Beetle, it was originally created for a single cylinder engine. A lawn mower or something like that. Then MG adapted it to a single TB engine (ie 1TB). As Beetle said this is really a cheapo design. I think we need to remember is the Stone is MG's low-end model and the V7 is the low-end series. You'd be surprised how many "extraneous" functions are performed by that ECU.Shindengen is a respected high quality OEM. I haven't had any luck finding the specifications for the SH689JF. I think its a SH689xx with cable harness tailored for the V7.
are the mounting bolts just supposed to be doing the job? If so maybe a jumper wire right to the battery?
If you replace your regulator, consider the ESR531 (https://www.electrosport.com/products/esr531-regulator-rectifier-honda-super-duty?_pos=1&_sid=4a7498df5&_ss=r). It is compatible with a variety of MG models and is sold by GTM who can advise you on V7 III compatibility. The ESR531 is the "super duty" version of the ESR530 I cited before.Best wishes restoring your charging system. I hope it's not the alternator.
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