Making auto brake lines.

[Tom]

Would you use brass, ss, copper or steel?  Would U single or double flare the ends? 

[roadventure]

Stainless steel tubing with flare fittings.  This is what I did for for hydraulic lines on industrial machinery, so it may be overkill for cars, but then again....maybe not.

[RinkRat II]

      Steel or stainless, double flare.

      Paul B

[Perazzimx14]

There are double rolled flares and bubble flares. Coated steel lines are fine.

Brake line flaring tools are avalaible at Autozone and the like for about $35 for the low end get it done model or you can borrow them for a $35 deosit and get it back when you return the tool. If this is a one time thing I'd not buy the tool.

[Tom]

Checking things out right now.  Thanks.

[wymple]

Copper. Do it once & never again. Also easier to work with.

[Chuck in Indiana]

If this is a one time thing I'd not buy the tool.

This.

[moto-uno]

  Curious , when was the last time anyone supplied copper brake lines on an auto or m/c ?  Peter

[oumigit2]

European cars have for years (nickel copper commonly known as nicor) if you live in the rust belt  you use this or you keep fixing them steel and even coated lines will continue to rust and fail stainless is expensive and hard to work but is best bet for hotrod or resto daliy driver nicor you can buy it on Amazon

[Matt Story]

Faced the same question when I redid the lines on a junker a couple years back.  The flare type will depend on the connections that are designed into the car's components.  I used the nickel copper lines and I'm very glad I did despite it being more expensive.  The bubble flares were hard enough to form with a hand flare tool in the copper.  I wouldn't want to form those in steel or stainless.  Also since the lines are more flexible, I believe they were much more easy to weave around the undercarriage, forming the bends as I laced it through.  I don't think there is a disadvantage to longevity.  This tool was reasonably priced and had good quality.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M61VE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  It was important to lube the flare tool before each form.

[dustybarn]

Copper. Do it once & never again. Also easier to work with.

I have used copper-nickel brake lines for years with good results:

www.cunifer.com

No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.

[Rough Edge racing]

Never ever copper brake lines. Copper nickel yes  ...

[lucky phil]

Is aluminium not an option?

Ciao

[huub]

Depending on where you live, and if corrosion is a issue.
Over here it is , so I use copper or cunifer. 
Both are easy to work with.
If you live in a dry climate,  steel is probably ok.

[BMCMOTO]

There are laws in the USA about brake line material and flare type used for road going equipment. Regular copper is a no-no, cannot handle enough pressure same with single flare. Flare angle is also of concern, 37 degree vs 45 degree etc..The copper-nickel stuff is nice in that it doesn't kink as easily as steel line. Ready made lines can be found in either material and flare style and are usually available in a multitude of lengths. Double flare for most American cars and bubble flare for most Asian and some European. It is worthwhile to know what you are working with and the type of fluid as well. Most parts houses (NAPA, Auto Value etc.) can help with proper choices.

Brian

[Mike Tashjian]

One more thing to remember is no compression fittings are allowed on brake fittings.

[moto-uno]

 Glad to see the "copper" brake line idea dropped in favour of Nickel-Copper . Peter
The devil is in the details  .

[wymple]

Glad to see the "copper" brake line idea dropped in favour of Nickel-Copper . Peter
The devil is in the details  .

I may have been referring to copper-nickel. We just always called them copper.