New Moto Guzzi Door Mats Available Now
Hate to be dim, but what exactly am I looking at in those photos? Is it weeping enough to cause a slippery tire, or a low level of oil?
When replacing inboard large lip seal there are some pitfalls which some workshops may or may not be aware . First do not push the lip seal any more than flush with the casing as it can touch the large ball race if pushed too far.Second check surface on crown gear shaft where lip seal runs .It is a good idea to polish this surface ie 1200 wet and dry . I did this job on 750 Breva no leaks now .My Stornello seems Ok at 11000 Kim's. I use non synthetic in FD and change at same time as eng.Hope this is helpful have a Merry Christmas .
I ride my V7iii in the rain a lot, water was leaking in at the bottom of the boot and over-filling the hub.The clip inside the boot is a poor design, it doesn't hold the boot against the bottom of the tunnel, I added some gasket cement and it seems to have stopped the water ingress., I bought a new boot and I will make a revised clip to hold it in place.
Mine developed the leak at a bit under 3,000 miles. It has been "fixed" under warranty and is in storage at the dealership. Next Spring will tell the tale. Fingers crossed it doesn't become an ongoing issue. I doubt that I'll hang on to it if so.
For what it’s worth, I’ve always run Mobil 1 75W-140 in the final drive, which meets the GL5 spec, but apparently not MT-1. I’ve never had any problem with leaking, with 100,000 miles so far. My hunch is the seal is sensitive to the smoothness of the metal it bears on. If it’s smooth and set up right, it works a long time and doesn’t leak. Otherwise, you get problem.
K-Roy,Can you give us some photos of the problem, and your solution.Joe
Numerous threads on the OEM vent clogging/not working. I went with the banjo bolt and breather hose fix.
The problem is that most of those threads the OP never comes back with the actual remedy. It’s just the breather bolt is so bad everyone just assumes that’s the problem. As I had stated, my breather bolt was not stopped up. I pulled the breather bolt off and could hear the bb moving. I could blow through it with no resistance. I plan to put a banjo bolt on it for preventing maintenance, but I’m confident it’s not the cause of the leak. The first time it leaked it started as a seep and slowly got worse. I suspect smithswede had the right answer, some have poor seal finishes. Time will tell and I will keep updating until it’s fixed or I trade it.
Notice how a large part of the boot is unsupported by the clip, from 7 to 8 O'clock, this just so happened to be right where it gets splashed with water.
Would a cable tie work? Vs the metal clip? 100% coverage all around, pull tight, etc. Or is there no room?
Kiwi, Thank you. Did you drill + tap for a drain screw?MG940,Interesting trick. I'll retain that.Joe
I wanted to provide an update on my rear drive leak. I took it back to the dealer about a month ago after riding with a weeping rear drive for a while hoping the weep would get worse and easier to find. When I took it in, the guy at the desk said "it's probably the rear seals, we see those a lot". I told him they had already changed the rear seals and it didn't solve the problem and to look harder. Well they called me today to let me know that the rear drive gear had a hairline crack that was allowing oil to bypass the seals. This makes sense sense because I wouldn't see any weeping until I got around 100 miles on a ride. It was repaired under warranty.I'll have to get it home and ride it for the final verdict, but it is promising that they did find a root cause.
Would be interesting to know exactly where the cush drive shaft item (16) cracked it's a fairly robust steel part.
Okay a little more information for completeness. The person I spoke to at the dealership apparently didn't understand the components that were replaced. According to the bill, the component that had a crack was not the gear assembly, but the hub assembly aka "Flexible Couplings Hub". Item 16 in the diagram.
