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That's nothing, I saw a shop do the same thing with a $60k+ full boat luxury Suburban (about 15 years ago). I didn't believe my eyes and asked about it and was told that was exactly what they were doing.
If you google cars that can hit 200,000 or 300,000 miles.. it is invariably full size American made trucks or suv, and Honda cars, and Toyota cars and suvs. Though I seem to remember the Volvo p1800 might have been the first to a million miles.. and I think I saw a wheeler dealers where they had a mid to late 80s Mercedes Benz, and they were like this is the high watermark for engineering and reliability.
So what vehicle built in 2020 would last 300,000 miles?
Well my 2014 Audi A5 is at 221,000 miles (my driving has dropped over the last 10 years) and should easily get to 300,000 if I've amind to-and I may.I've taken other Audi products to near 300,000, so I won't say it's invariably American cars with high miles.I figure I would have similar results with any American or Japanese car too.
I think a lot of it is intent and expectations. In my experience, having used Italian vehicles in America pretty much all my life (mostly Alfa Romeos, of which we had 10 in our family from 1965 to 2010), and Ducati (having put 300K miles total on a couple of Ducati Monsters), and some British (currently driving a 2002 Mini Cooper S with 222K miles on it) -- The American and Japanese companies build to the lowest common denominator. They expect that the owners will not keep up with the maintenance properly, will not care for it well, will by cheap parts, etc. So they design in extra tolerance and durability for that. The downside is that the extra tolerance and durability means less fine tuning, no delicate balance, less "soul" or feeling. European companies assume that the owners will have more diligence and competence about these things, because European culture fosters that better, and thus can and do design things more finely, more balanced and tuned, more road feel and soul. And you pay for that with more maintenance and more expensive parts.The old saying is "you get what you pay for", although I think that's not entirely true -- often you don't get what you paid for. But what *is* true is the obverse -- you *don't* get what you *don't* pay for.Pretty much *anything*, if you break it in correctly, use it regularly, and maintain it properly. It will be easiest in a Toyota or Honda, but then that's what you're driving for 20 years. It will be more pleasant, albeit more maintenance and expense, to do it in a fine European car. But just about anything these days will do it.PhilB
Hogwash. Big tolerances give you HD style piston slap. My Honda car takes 0w-20 motor oil. Cars don’t run 20w-50 no more. Tight tolerances mean longer life, not less. And as an aside. There is no way you’re getting 300,000 miles out of a new Land Rover or a new Jaguar. Those things look brokedown while moving down the road.
Just curious, what have brakes jobs and timing belts cost in that time?
From my years working at a Mazda/VW dealer, and seeing all brands come through in the used car dept, I would say you want to the most basic, small to mid size car form most manufactures. As a whole the lower level cars just have less cutting edge systems that cause issues. Also it really helps to take care of them. Its so easy to forget becouse they run so well early on. Most old Mazdas I saw that were junked were not becouse of the fact that they were broke.. its that the cost to repair systems like converters were to costly.
Back in the 80's I was a plant Materials Mgr for a large (at the time) manufacturing corp(Dana)...we were really getting into the quality thing and had many meetings and classes on Japanese manufacturing. Our guys couldn't believe that a Japanese worker had the authority and was often rewarded for stopping a production line when they saw a quality problem..
For this car, no timing belt. It's a chain. However I had the tensioner checked at 160,000 and it was at the end of its travel so I replaced the chain and tensioner. Not big money, but I can't recall the number.Coming up on the second brake job, I expect $600 or so.Clutch slave blew out at 180,000 which soaked the entire assembly. Total replacement was $1800-the dual mass flywheel was fine.What you haven't asked-no electronic issues ever. Suspension bushings are fine. Original exhaust and battery. I hit a large pothole and blew the seals on the rear shocks.If it were at a dealer the whole time it would be expensive but you can always find a factory tech with the parts connections in his own space.
I'll comment on VW/Audi and their 2.0 turbo bread and butter engine. It's been a time bomb. A friend purchased a Jetta, the engine blew at 60k miles. The timing chain tensioner is run by oil pressure, so upon start, the timing chain jumps, the engine gets trashed. I did an internet search and found there were kinds of class action lawsuits. VW would change part numbers on the failed items, only to limit liability because the new parts were no better. This caused delays in the lawsuit as additional car models were added.My brother-in-law purchased an Audi, they got rid of it after getting the bill for the brake job. Not mentioning the scandal with polluting VW diesels.I agree about getting reliable mid level car vs any luxury car. I'm big fan of Honda Accord which is pretty sporty car with a stick (not available anymore).
Yep. Audis are nice. And you see a bunch in Europe obviously. But the lower end ones seem to be rebadged vw’s. And I get the desire to have one engine used across the platform, but at least have the decency to make it bulletproof. The questionable reliability of their turbo four 1.8? Or just the 2.0 is an unforced error