LMIV / 1400 / Tonti / - project

[leroy_can]

  Got the fairing lowers trimmed to fit and sorted out the mounting. Slightly more finicky than before to install but they don't need to be disturbed to check the valves now. The exhaust needs the final joint tacked in place. I think the pipes look okay but they do hang a little low.  Some things need the bike on the ground and standing further back to really appraise. The fat double wall 1400 headers and the distinctive valve covers will be what catches the eye of the few who will realize it is something different.

[Groover]

Looking really good!

[huub]

great project! personally i would have a set of single skinned pipes bent , to have the pipes in the original position ,
i actually like the gold/blue of well used stainless pipes.
but hey , you need to compromise somewhere.
the end result should be a blast to ride!

[leroy_can]

 "The exhaust need the final joint tacked in place"  Well that was the understatement of the year. 1st when moving my welder close to the bike my argon bottle fell over and broke the regulator. Got that going and positioned myself to tack the final joint where the short section I had made met up with the 1400 header. Because I had cut ahead of the factory weld on the 1400 pipe I should have realized I had 2 unconnected layers of stainless. the inner layer didn't want to accept the heat and allow the rod to flow and more pedal caused the thin outer layer to recede and made a disgusting mess. I definitely could have saved it but wasn't totally sure I liked how it was looking. Finally I said screw it and scrapped the 1400 header plan. Good thing I got them very cheap. Their only contribution is I salvaged the mounting flanges which are much better than the plates Bub had. These are nicely vented to encourage good air flow in an important area.
   Next I started hacking my Bub  headers up. I removed and capped the upper balance tube which had to go because of the cooler and machined 2 sleeves to make the upper end correct for the 1400 engine's ports and to fit the mounting flange. These were drilled as shown in 4 spots and rosette welded to the pipes. I didn't have any 1-5/8 bends but just used 1-3/4 sleeved on top of the joints which will be fine and not very noticeable once header paint is on. The right pipe was simply cut and extended an in. or so but the L.H. one was going to be too close to the frame and needed a little joggle added to make it good. I added the bung for the AFR gauge and they are done except for painting.
     I really didn't want to modify the LMIV Bub header but you gotta work with what you have and I am very happy how they turned out. A bonus is both header flanges can be removed even slipping over the AFR bung and that makes painting easier. Also since I had added the Supertrapp tips to the Bubs the centerstand contacted them a little and I was able to kick up the rear of the mufflers and fix this. They are easy enough to put in and off but I will have to bake the header paint good enough to be able to handle them on installation. The first photo shows the 1400 pipes but the rear of the bike is sitting way higher than it should and this hides how low they were at the front. Mostly is to show the comparison between the 2 set-ups. Another bonus is the double wall 1400 pipes weighed slightly over 4 lbs. more.

ostly

[Rick4003]

Glad it turned out nice in the end, In my opinion the new head tubes looks much better than the 1400 headers. They were just too long.

[Don G]

Yes, the new headers look the part. DonG

[leroy_can]

Glad it turned out nice in the end, In my opinion the new head tubes looks much better than the 1400 headers. They were just too long.

     Thanks, even though I never got to see the other pipes with the bike on the ground I think I like these best for sure. I might wrap the first foot or so to keep heat from the cooler but that's to be determined. I realized looking things over that I will need to change the front brake lines to keep them from hitting the cooler on full compression.
     The 1400 pipes would make great wall art if a person painted a full size frontal view of an engine on a piece of plywood and then mounted the pipes protruding out. I just need to learn how to draw.

[Jorg66]

Wow, Congrats ,....thats quite something what you created !

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

This beast is going to sound great and haul ass, it already looks the part! Keep it rolling, thank you for taking the time for a build thread!

[leroy_can]

   1st I will say how much I appreciate all the positive comments so far and I realize I should respond to them when they arrive. Many finishing touches have been in progress and suddenly it's getting very close.
    The converting of the PHM 40 Dellortos from side operation to top cables took lots of playing but turned out so good that it looks like it must have been easy. I managed to use of set of original  outer cables I had as spares and made my own brass ends and silver soldered them to inner cables I cut out of some random Yamaha cables I bought for cutting up. The crowded area of throttle cables/fuel taps/breather outlets is just fine now and the fuel taps turned to rotate laterally turned out to be how I should have always had them. They are very stiff to turn and switching to reserve with cold hands was not easy. Now on is down, off straight out, and reserve up. Should be much easier.




     The AFR gauge was easy to to mount using the mirror stem as a location but now that I have actually sat on the bike I see that I need to make a new mount laying it down to match the instruments to be more readable. The part of the mount that actually holds the gauge is for fitting it to another bike I originally got it for so it will always be a 2 piece mount on this bike but should only be on till it is sorted. The harness for it assumes it will be mounted in a school bus or something so I shortened it a bunch but left slack in case I need it on the other bike.





     I really like everything about the Elektronik Sasche ignition. Even in the claustrophobic alternator area it is so simple to time. There is of course no backlash being crank mounted and you simply set to R.H. T.D.C. and rotate the trigger disc to align on the corresponding pick-up. The sweet thing is there is a led built into the circuit board on the alternator so you rotate the disc till it goes off and tighten the set screws. Hit the spot perfectly 1st try. The "black box" for it where you can select different curves came with a self adhesive velcro mount and it turned out to have room under the seat where it is very accessible.




     You need to add a couple of washers between the alternator cover and the spacer to ensure clearance. I had already made little cups to keep the screws from splitting the cover but knew it would be awkward to assemble with the washers and the ignition harness and of course the oil cooler crowding as well. The simple solution took 5 minutes if you forget the almost 35 years it took me to think of it. I cut the heads off some bolts and made a screwdriver slot so they can hold the spacer and washers in place when the cover is installed. Then you remove them 1 at a time and install the real screws.




    Other than a few more tie wraps under the tank it needs fuel lines and ign. leads to run. I filled my gas can with premium today and filled the sump with exactly 3 litres of Motul10/w60. I have a roller starter set-up I made years back and I ran it on that to confirm oil pressure. It took about 20 or 30 seconds to kill the oil light. ( I hadn't pre-filled the filter ) Now I can see where that puts the level on the dipstick. It went down 1/2" to 5/8"filling the cooler and filter.
     I'm very happy with the look of it on the ground, the engine really jumps out looking large with those top covers. Sitting on it however could have been better. I'm only 6' 1" or maybe 2" but have











disproportionately long legs (36" inseam)so I'm a little tight on the valve covers. Even with the LMIV engine my R.H. knee got hot contacting the cover. I know that's wrong but it was the R.H. , apparently I sit crooked. These should run cooler with their big air gap but remains to be seen. I'm sure I can figure something out if necessary. Also the carbs on the slightly longer straight intakes make me have to use a slightly wider stance when stopped but that is available with my legs.

[Rick4003]

That looks very good! Almost like it came from the factory like that

Soooo, did you start it up yet? Any test rides yet?

[leroy_can]

That looks very good! Almost like it came from the factory like that

Soooo, did you start it up yet? Any test rides yet?

    Still wrapping up last details and never like to jinx myself with predictions it is a good way to make that last bolt you torque snap off. There are some bikes on the road already but spring roads here suck and I try to hold out for the street cleaners to start. I will put a plate on it shortly so if it runs I can legally test it but still too many unknowns ahead.
   I redid the AFR gauge mount to angle it up for better visibility this morning. I redid the front brake lines to hopefully clear the cooler on full compression of the forks and still trying to get the last of the air bled out. On the lift you can't turn the bars to make sure all cables and harnesses are happy going lock to lock so I need to check that too. The seat was giving problems locking down and I feared I miss-judged the room for the ign. controller but the mechanism just



needed a little lube. It was last lubed in 1987 at the factory so I guess it was due.

[leroy_can]

  Wrapped up everything on my list. The ignition leads couldn't come out of the top covers where Guzzi intended as the gas tank is too close so I brought them out the rear outboard. Since I had dual plugs on the LMIV and this engine had some different type of dual plugs I pretty much had to run them. 1st I didn't want to change my coils and 2nd like I said these are dual plug heads. Hard to find much out but as best as I can figure the second plug was only fired when the ECU sensed the need. Being 4 valve heads the main plug is in the center and they put the second one at the extreme edge of the chamber.


    Anyways, with that complete only fear and common sense were holding me back so I hit the start button. I had been running an ETX14 battery and figured I would see how it handled things. With the new type starter it seemed pretty good but it was firing but never quite got going and the battery quickly seemed weak. So out to the battery place for an ETX20 but while driving and thinking it seemed to me that the timing might be way off. With the ETX20 it still wouldn't catch and quickly seemed weak as well. Took about a minute of checking my connections at the ign.module box to realize some genius had reversed the coil hook-ups. I had color coded the wires red and green for Port and Starboard and was right at the coils but wrong at the box since I only had enough length to correct it at the coils they are now correct but ass backwards color wise. About 2 revoutions later it ran but with a very high idle and could only run on choke. Not being used to the AFR gauge which was showing a steady 10.0 and the need for chokes I took it to be lean and went from 57 pilots to 62s which were all I had
     Oh Yeah, on a very positive note my much modified alternator clinging to that 1400 crank seems to function just like it did an the LMIV as far as the idiot light and voltmeter are concerned. So that's a win for now.
     Back to the carbs: Hooked up my mercury sticks and got the idle lower and close on the balance. I used to use a colortune before to adjust mixtures and loved it but that option is out so I just set mixture by vacuum and got it running 1/2 decent. The throttles seemed lazy to return but I still wanted a short test ride. The only item not functioning on my stock wiring is the kill switch but I figured if there was a problem I could use the key. Yeah that little flush round knob while wearing snowmobile mitts. Fortunately I got away with it but # 1 on the to do list is sorting the throttle return issue. I had changed to internal light springs when the bike was almost new but was still running the bell-crank tops and they were still slightly heavy but seem very light now so maybe the direct cable feed now changed that. Anyway,need to sort that. Basically too many distractions on my 5 kilometre ride to learn much but considering all that was done for it to be ride-able sort of right away isn't that bad.
    The ignition fires at TDC at start up so swapping the coils means R.H. 90 ATDC and L.H. 90 BTDC. At least that is what I quickly decided either way it had no chance and as well the wasted spark would have been equally out of place

[Groover]

I really like how your seat was done, do you have a contact name/place where they did it, and do you think they would be able to make one like it again? Everything else is looking great!

[leroy_can]

 It was a 2 part deal. In an earlier post bottom of page 1 I mentioned how I had Corbin redo the seat on the stock base so they are responsible for the shape. When the Corbin seat started splitting 20+ years later I had a local upholsterer  redo it on the Corbin foam about 5 years back. Bottom line is this doesn't help you because I don't believe Corbin does custom work like this anymore except maybe in person and the local gut who redid it wouldn't have  equipment to do the foam. Also his health wasn't good 5 years back and he was 90% retired then.

[leroy_can]

  I found a listing for Dellorto PHM return springs that gave very good dimensions on 3 types Light,Medium,and Heavy. They gave free length,wire size,number of coils, and O.D. Mine were the lightest and of course they would take a long time to get so I made 1/2" spacer blocks to fit under the light springs. Huge improvement but need a little more yet for quick positive throttle returns. Took a very enjoyable 35 km loop today at a much better time of day and am extremely happy overall. I really expected it to be very off jetting wise but it's well within the ballpark and totally drive able as is so I can ride it and make small changes as I go. For a starting point I had raised the needles 1 notch and gone from a 140 main to a 150 and then yesterday I went from a 57 pilot to a 62. I'm a little rich overall so might undo some of those changes yet. I really think I could have put the carbs on exactly as they were on the LMIV and started there. It always ran good and every time I changed something I started  out with what I had been running and hardly ever needed to change it more than slightly.
   The timing on the Elektronik Sasche is 0 Degrees at start on all curves until 400 RPM and then on the curve I started with jumps to 8 degrees till 1000 and then advances to full advance of 28 degrees at 3000. Initially this feels to me like a keeper. Why other aftermarket ignitions done't do that 0 degree for start is beyond me. All the Harley ones seem to start at 10 or 15 and need to have 1 or 2 rotations before firing to let the starter gain momentum. I think every engine on the planet could start at 0 quite happily.
   My LMIV was still running the original Bosch starter and with the ETX14 battery never felt like there was much to spare. With the ETX20 and the new starter and this ignition this just starts right now.
     When I bought the engine on Ebay out of El Paso the story was that it had a hard to locate very minor oil leak that the dealer had made 1 or 2 expensive attempts to locate and finally M.G. gave him a new engine and never asked for it back so eventually he listed it. I take such stories with a grain of salt but offered $800 and he took it with very reasonable shipping. It still had the clutch on and you could tell it had been off and the rear bearing flange had definite non factory sealer around the perimeter so his story seemed legitimate after all. So far it sounds great and has 0 signs of leaking.
    The 8/33 also seems fine. I don't expect to go to the dragstrip and it launches as good as ever but might not see 5th for a while.
    It certainly feels strong and pulls effortlessly. I,m sure when I do open it up it will not be spectacular higher up as it is tuned for torque on a cruiser but initially it sure meets my expectations.
    Here is the most complete photo yet even with the bags on. I have brackets for them on all my bikes and love how they look which is good because I can't do without them. I used to have various ways to carry everything for a 2 week 2 up tour but once home had to carry my lunch to work inside my t-shirt. These little 21 litre bags make it a true grocery chaser with style.


    There were some random very bad noises at first but raising the rear of the tank 1/4"solved that. It is amazing how close the lower sides of the tank come to the cyls. about 1/8" tops so got lucky there.

[leroy_can]

    Wow,I announce it runs and suddenly I get promoted to Sunday Rider,I hope the next level isn't Wannabe. Going to add a little more shim to the throttle springs this morning. I call this weather a false spring but it's here to stay for a few days apparently. One thing I forgot to mention is the tach with my homemade drive mod is working great. Initially I put in exactly 3 litres of oil starting with a very empty engine,filter, and cooler. Probably a little low but good for now. I have the stock dip-stick and one from my LMIV I got from Harper's years back. It's the 2 piece one with 2 o-rings and if I can find new o-rings today I will use it and see where it reads with a known quantity and mark it. Initially it looks like my old mark will be very close if I go to 3-1/2 litres which I think will be good. As opposed to an actual California 1400 my readings will be on a centerstand and my cooler is bottom feed but I'm not sure if it holds all it's oil when shut down or  how long it takes to drain back. since it would have to go back through the pump I expect it will hold for a long time. Both coolers I bought to try had red oil in them and now I know it must have been Motul, I had assumed it to be Red-line. The oil will be easy to see on the steel Harper's stick

[usedtobefast]

This just seems amazing to me!  It is also on the edge of what I can even understand and comprehend. 

So the motor is a modern 1400, the transmission is from what?  A 2002 ?  And then the driveshaft/swingarm are original parts to the LMIV?

I just assumed once you went 1400 motor ... that meant a matching big block transmission (housing and gears and shifting forks, etc) ... and then that meant a CARC swingarm, shaft, and final drive.   I didn't realize you could mix and match like what I think you did.

Did that require a lot of work, machining, etc to sort out? 

Very impressive.

And from what I've read about 1400's, seems issues are related to electrical, dash, sensors, engine management stuff ...  and seems you passed on all that!    

[leroy_can]

  Thanks, Yes there was lots of things done to make the front cover with the engine mount lug fit and to adapt the LMIV Bosch alternator. The 02 trans was one I had put in the LMIV last year and was a 100% bolt in behind the LMIV and then to fit it to the back of the 1400 motor was also 100% bolt in using the LMIV flywheel and complete clutch as well. As far as I know all 5 speeds are interchangeable and the  02 was the first year to have some improvements internally to improve the shifting. It,s big attraction to me was it had maybe 10% of the miles as my original. Unknown to me at the time was that with the relocated neutral switch on the 02 I can now run the later starter from the 1400 and there new ones are cheap and plentiful on Ebay. I bought another spare super low mileage one this winter from an 03 and although it is like new it turned out to have a thinner clutch input spline for the single plate clutch but that's a easy enough swap if I ever need to run it. If you go back through through this thread, pretty good details of everything done is there for sure in the text and quite a bit in the pictures.

[lucky phil]

I congratulate you and appreciate the engineering and effort thats gone into this project but the original bike has lost it's proportion now for mine. Like stuffing a big block V8 into a 4 cylinder run about. Any design elegance the original LM had is completely lost. The mufflers dont help as they were and always will be a styling abomination on a motorcycle. I sometimes can't believe how little focus people put into the decision of what mufflers they use from a styling perspective. They form a major part of the look of a motorcycle and can be make or break from that perspective.

Ciao   

[leroy_can]

I congratulate you and appreciate the engineering and effort thats gone into this project but the original bike has lost it's proportion now for mine. Like stuffing a big block V8 into a 4 cylinder run about. Any design elegance the original LM had is completely lost. The mufflers dont help as they were and always will be a styling abomination on a motorcycle. I sometimes can't believe how little focus people put into the decision of what mufflers they use from a styling perspective. They form a major part of the look of a motorcycle and can be make or break from that perspective.

Ciao

    Thanks? I guess you missed the part about wanting to make as much from the existing bike work and took the easiest/cheapest way out wherever possible since the whole project was never a guaranteed success. I guess I actually destroyed all design elegance in 1990 when I bought the BUB HYPER exhaust. I did always prefer the upswept Conti look but back then liked the part about keeping hot pipes well clear of soft bags which were prone to shifting if much imbalance happened.
   As far as your Big Block V8 into a 4 cyl runabout analogy I think it's a little over the top. Your example refers to 500 or so horsepower replacing 100 or so with a resulting vehicle impractical for anything more than the occasional Cruise night. In my case I have replaced 80 or so with 100 or so (once sorted) and once hopefully proven I fully expect to be able to drive it anywhere the LMIV could have gone. Mostly when I saw the engine available and he accepted my offer I enjoyed challenging myself with the project.
   Just to show what it used to be as last run as the LMIV here is a picture. Also to show that I believe I am most capable of building a good looking exhaust hear is a little NGC of a bike I have owned since 1975. The pipe on it was 100% built by me in 1993 with the exception of the rear portion of the Supertrapp and the 2-1 transition was taken from another unknown swap meet pipe. As modified as it is it is also functional and although I finally made it electric start last winter I rode it as far as Trail BC. 2 years ago at age 65 when it was still kick start.
  Winnipeg to Creston B.C. (1600kms/1000mi ) in 2 days which is not too shabby for it or me.

[lucky phil]

    Thanks? I guess you missed the part about wanting to make as much from the existing bike work and took the easiest/cheapest way out wherever possible since the whole project was never a guaranteed success. I guess I actually destroyed all design elegance in 1990 when I bought the BUB HYPER exhaust. I did always prefer the upswept Conti look but back then liked the part about keeping hot pipes well clear of soft bags which were prone to shifting if much imbalance happened.
   As far as your Big Block V8 into a 4 cyl runabout analogy I think it's a little over the top. Your example refers to 500 or so horsepower replacing 100 or so with a resulting vehicle impractical for anything more than the occasional Cruise night. In my case I have replaced 80 or so with 100 or so (once sorted) and once hopefully proven I fully expect to be able to drive it anywhere the LMIV could have gone. Mostly when I saw the engine available and he accepted my offer I enjoyed challenging myself with the project.
   Just to show what it used to be as last run as the LMIV here is a picture. Also to show that I believe I am most capable of building a good looking exhaust hear is a little NGC of a bike I have owned since 1975. The pipe on it was 100% built by me in 1993 with the exception of the rear portion of the Supertrapp and the 2-1 transition was taken from another unknown swap meet pipe. As modified as it is it is also functional and although I finally made it electric start last winter I rode it as far as Trail BC. 2 years ago at age 65 when it was still kick start.
  Winnipeg to Creston B.C. (1600kms/1000mi ) in 2 days which is not too shabby for it or me.

My analogy wasn't actually aimed at the power more the aesthetics. The relationship between the engine and the rest of the bike looks unbalanced. The engine is dominating which to me skews it towards a "hotrod" look as apposed to a harmonious integrated design/style. No matter really just not my idea of a balanced design concept. I appreciate your fabricating skills although I think I would have sought to the modify the oil fitting before the frame but sometimes you need to be there physically to appreciate the challenge. I've never liked the look of those disk silencers from day 1. I remember them coming out in the 70's but with another brand name which alludes me? A set of nice pipes might even balance the look a bit. Something with a modest rise and reverse cone shaped. The std mufflers didn't look totally terrible on those things. A friend of mine had a Mk4 which he picked up at the Factory in Mandello in 84 and we met up there me on my BMW and we rode to The IOM togehter and back to Mandello again.

Ciao
       

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I think it looks great! If the engine "dominates", it's only because it's black, IMO. 

[leroy_can]

  Well, rainy cool Sunday but it's been nice otherwise and now have 250 kms of test riding in.  Still mostly good news. I bumped the throttle spring spacers up to 5/8" which is max without coil bind but still not enough for good return. While playing at the carbs I noticed 1 accelerator pump was dead and it turned out to be the diaphragm confirmed by swapping L. to R. I contacted Wolfgang Harter the Laverda guy in B.C. and he had both the heavy throttle springs and the pump diaphragms so should have them soon. I tried turning both pumps off but it didn't like that so I made the good one operational but now that it was on the R.H. side it still wasn't right . For some unknown it seems that if I can only have one accel pump it needs to be the left? No matter as both should be back on line shortly.
     Yesterday I thought something had failed but it was just hitting reserve much sooner than expected but maybe the tank had been not as full as I thought. Then by the time I selected reserve with mitts on it was too late and I coasted to a stop. I was thinking trailer but hit the button and rode away.
     I got new  o-rings for the pull out dipstick and have it in now. With the original 3 litres I had put in after sitting overnight on the center stand it reads 1/2 low to the full mark from my LMIV  so I think that can be my full mark again.
     I got home from 1 of my rides and saw oil on the ground which was from the upper breather pipe and checked the lower one which goes in to a catch-can but it was bone dry. I temporarily rerouted the other one to a clear baby bottle between the carbs and so far it may have a few drops. Something to keep an eye on for now. It doesn't take much oil to look like lots.
      The slightly taller top covers on the engine were hurting my knees especially the R.H. one and I have been trimming and blending the back ends of the fins and it's not too bad now. Today I matched up the L.H. one even though it wasn't the problem I was still contacting it and trimming will allow that knee more room and should help the pressure on the other by letting me sit different. Before I put them back on I highlighted the fins completely because I like that look best. The pictures show how the original fins had a sharp corner at the rear and how I trimmed the L.H. one down and then the picture of them with highlighted fins.
     The only real negative issue is the oil leak that the engine was allegedly replaced for is back. Definitely from the rear bearing flange or maybe the bolts need sealer. Since it took 250 kms to make it's first drop I  won't worry about it until I need to open it up again. 40 years of working on 18 cyl radial aircraft engines makes one more tolerant of leaks.

[lucky phil]

  Well, rainy cool Sunday but it's been nice otherwise and now have 250 kms of test riding in.  Still mostly good news. I bumped the throttle spring spacers up to 5/8" which is max without coil bind but still not enough for good return. While playing at the carbs I noticed 1 accelerator pump was dead and it turned out to be the diaphragm confirmed by swapping L. to R. I contacted Wolfgang Harter the Laverda guy in B.C. and he had both the heavy throttle springs and the pump diaphragms so should have them soon. I tried turning both pumps off but it didn't like that so I made the good one operational but now that it was on the R.H. side it still wasn't right . For some unknown it seems that if I can only have one accel pump it needs to be the left? No matter as both should be back on line shortly.
     Yesterday I thought something had failed but it was just hitting reserve much sooner than expected but maybe the tank had been not as full as I thought. Then by the time I selected reserve with mitts on it was too late and I coasted to a stop. I was thinking trailer but hit the button and rode away.
     I got new  o-rings for the pull out dipstick and have it in now. With the original 3 litres I had put in after sitting overnight on the center stand it reads 1/2 low to the full mark from my LMIV  so I think that can be my full mark again.
     I got home from 1 of my rides and saw oil on the ground which was from the upper breather pipe and checked the lower one which goes in to a catch-can but it was bone dry. I temporarily rerouted the other one to a clear baby bottle between the carbs and so far it may have a few drops. Something to keep an eye on for now. It doesn't take much oil to look like lots.
      The slightly taller top covers on the engine were hurting my knees especially the R.H. one and I have been trimming and blending the back ends of the fins and it's not too bad now. Today I matched up the L.H. one even though it wasn't the problem I was still contacting it and trimming will allow that knee more room and should help the pressure on the other by letting me sit different. Before I put them back on I highlighted the fins completely because I like that look best. The pictures show how the original fins had a sharp corner at the rear and how I trimmed the L.H. one down and then the picture of them with highlighted fins.
     The only real negative issue is the oil leak that the engine was allegedly replaced for is back. Definitely from the rear bearing flange or maybe the bolts need sealer. Since it took 250 kms to make it's first drop I  won't worry about it until I need to open it up again.40 years of working on 18 cyl radial aircraft engines makes one more tolerant of leaks.

Seems we have a similar professional background.

Ciao

[leroy_can]

I guess we did

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Super cool, glad it's working out for you. I like this build a lot.

[leroy_can]

Super cool, glad it's working out for you. I like this build a lot.

     Thanks, it' looks promising so far.

[LowRyter]

 

[Muzz]

Must be something in the water in Canada.  Between you and Canuck750 you guys certainly pull some rabbits out of the hat.

Really enjoyed your journey thanks Leroy.