T3 throttle cables' WIRES too short

[moto]

I have two throttle cables for the Tommaselli Daytona 2C with VHB combo, for a civilian T3, sold by one of our favorite vendors. Each cable itself is plenty long, but the wire inside is so short that I am out of adjustment on both the carburetor top and at the throttle. As a result I can't really finely adjust the cables, but have to be content with "almost good enough."

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

I would like to lengthen the wire inside the cable so that I have about another half inch. Of course in practice this would mean shortening the cable housing instead of literally lengthening the wire. Any advice on this?

Are there better throttle cables out there?

Moto

[pehayes]

Half inch is a lot.  I seem to recall in similar situation that I was able to just remove the locknut from the adjuster at the carb end and maybe at the throttle end.  That allows the cable guide to screw into the carb cap a few turns more and give you about 1/4" more adjustment.  Try it.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Sasquatch Jim]

The throttle cable manufacturers know about this because they do it deliberately and so sell more cables.

[cliffrod]

If you can carefully twist the ferrule off the end of the sheath, use the edge or corner of a file to file through the flat wound metal inner portion of the cable sheath.  You can remove a ring of winding at a time if you like.  Just go slow so you don't knick the inner cable.  You don't have remove the ferrule from the entire cable assembly, just slide it out of the way if its present.  It's not too hard to do.  Just remember that it's always easier to make things shorter....  You may also have to trim back plastic lining inside the flat wound metal if it's present.

Sometimes the crimp of the ferrule will retain the black plastic outer covering of the sheath when you pull it off.  Clear this out with a pick or awl and you can slip it over the plastic on the shortened sheath.

Before you do this, make sure that turning the front end to full lock each way with cables installed does not actuate the carbs at all.  That means the cable assemblies are already too short. No need to modify them if this is the case. 

Good luck.

[Rough Edge racing]

 I have been making my own cables for years. It's not too difficult and almost enjoyable

[Canuck750]

I have been making my own cables for years. It's not too difficult and almost enjoyable

I need to learn how to make cables, I have bought throttle and choke cables in the past year for different Italian bikes that have been too short and too long, gets frustrating!
Are there decent kits or suppliers of components that you can recommend? I am curious how the bulb ends are made with a DIY setup

[Rough Edge racing]

I need to learn how to make cables, I have bought throttle and choke cables in the past year for different Italian bikes that have been too short and too long, gets frustrating!
Are there decent kits or suppliers of components that you can recommend? I am curious how the bulb ends are made with a DIY setup

Flanders sells bulk cable and sheath and a vast assortment of end fittings. Barnett also sells the stuff and it's excellent quality. Emgo and Venhill make decent universal cables. I use silver bearing soft solder to attach the fittings. it requires a very clean situation for the best joint. Practice on scrap cable. I use a mini butane torch. Never had an end fall off...

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I have two throttle cables for the Tommaselli Daytona 2C with VHB combo, for a civilian T3, sold by one of our favorite vendors. Each cable itself is plenty long, but the wire inside is so short that I am out of adjustment on both the carburetor top and at the throttle. As a result I can't really finely adjust the cables, but have to be content with "almost good enough."

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

I would like to lengthen the wire inside the cable so that I have about another half inch. Of course in practice this would mean shortening the cable housing instead of literally lengthening the wire. Any advice on this?

Are there better throttle cables out there?

Moto

Two things I do in cases like this:
1) remove the adjuster locknut on the top of the carb and run the adjust in completely. It's redundant since you have in-cable adjusters anyway.
2) if necessary, remove 1 mm from the carb top where the adjuster threads in. There's still plenty of threads, doesn't hurt anything.

[guzzisteve]

If you can carefully twist the ferrule off the end of the sheath, use the edge or corner of a file to file through the flat wound metal inner portion of the cable sheath.  You can remove a ring of winding at a time if you like.  Just go slow so you don't knick the inner cable.  You don't have remove the ferrule from the entire cable assembly, just slide it out of the way if its present.  It's not too hard to do.  Just remember that it's always easier to make things shorter....  You may also have to trim back plastic lining inside the flat wound metal if it's present.

Sometimes the crimp of the ferrule will retain the black plastic outer covering of the sheath when you pull it off.  Clear this out with a pick or awl and you can slip it over the plastic on the shortened sheath.

Before you do this, make sure that turning the front end to full lock each way with cables installed does not actuate the carbs at all.  That means the cable assemblies are already too short. No need to modify them if this is the case. 

Good luck.

[moto]

Half inch is a lot.  I seem to recall in similar situation that I was able to just remove the locknut from the adjuster at the carb end and maybe at the throttle end.  That allows the cable guide to screw into the carb cap a few turns more and give you about 1/4" more adjustment.  Try it.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Brilliant. (Edit -- I see Charlie just suggested the same thing, and more.) I'll try this.

I do know how to make cables, and have a bunch of appropriate cable ends from Flanders. I was about to start modifying the cables.

The best solutions are the simplest.

Somehow this almost-good-enough equipment reminds me of the old days when I would file the factory points plates just to make them work half-right.

Thanks to you all for a bunch of good ideas.

Moto

P.S. Here's an earlier discussion on making cables: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=38719.0. (I still use my one-dollar solder pot, as described there.)

[moto]

I need to learn how to make cables, I have bought throttle and choke cables in the past year for different Italian bikes that have been too short and too long, gets frustrating!
Are there decent kits or suppliers of components that you can recommend? I am curious how the bulb ends are made with a DIY setup

Let me answer this directly. I recommend you buy a supply of end-fittings from Flanders, for some appropriate-diameter wires, checking those used in your fleet. Then cut off the old end-fitting, clean the wire, push it through the new one. The wire you are putting the new fitting on is made up of smaller wires. Splay those out in a fan-like arrangement on the bevelled-hole side of the fitting. Then clean again and dip the whole shebang in flux and melt off the excess with your butane torch. Finally, heat your solder in a copper pipe end-cap from the hardware store, using the torch, and dip the fluxed assembly into it. The results should seem eerily perfect.

One other thought. The last time I bought from Flanders their website wasn't cooperating (it was hosted under some other company's name). A quick call directly to Flanders, in violation of the website instructions, got me cheerful service, even on a small order of parts. http://flanderscables.com/

Moto

[Guzler]

I need to learn how to make cables, I have bought throttle and choke cables in the past year for different Italian bikes that have been too short and too long, gets frustrating!
Are there decent kits or suppliers of components that you can recommend? I am curious how the bulb ends are made with a DIY setup

https://www.venhillusa.com/products/cable-kits-and-parts/cable-kits.html

[Canuck750]

https://www.venhillusa.com/products/cable-kits-and-parts/cable-kits.html

Thanks I will look into that!

[Old Jock]

I am curious how the bulb ends are made with a DIY setup

https://www.venhillusa.com/products/tools.html

It's very spendy for what it is and those with machine tools could probably make something up that does the same job. I also remember hearing that there was some sort of tool that's used when making your own bullets that could also be used. If I ordered anything here in the UK that was connected with firearms I'm pretty sure I'd be getting an early morning alarm call from the security services.

Below is a video showing how to use the tool. I bit the bullet and bought one (that really hurt paying that price but it was cheaper when I bought it a considerable time ago) along with some solder and flux for cables (different solder and flux to the electrical type) and a cheap solder bath. Since then I've been making my own cables ever since. Great to know I'm no longer reliant on suppliers as I never seem to get the correct cable lengths from suppliers   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_273vfLLa8

Hope that helps

John

[Scout63]

Timely thread for me as I am adjusting throttle cables to fit a Domino throttle to VHB’s. The Venhill  kit is good but only has two of each kind of barrel. I found that it takes some practice to get the soldering right so had to order extra barrels.   

[Matteo]

Guzziology has a very good parts list for cables with lengths, end descriptions and applications and part numbers. Most of which are available from Harpers or MG cycle.

[Canuck750]

I took the suggestion to trim back the outer sheathing to get more active length to the cable, worked great, had to go very slow with the dremel!

[moto]

Well, it's been three months but I finally got around to this job. As the OP, I owe thanks to Cliffrod for the detailed instructions. Like Canuck750, I used a Dremel. One extra tip for those who might be hesitant: The nylon or Teflon liner serves to keep the wire away from the steel housing while you work. It's an easy job once you've done the first one. 

Moto