How to winterize MG V7C?

[sstone14]

I have a battery tender, and will be storing it indoors for the winter, but beyond that, what else is needed?

Should I drain the fuel? And if so, how is that done?

Anything else needed before winter storage?

Thanks!

[kellercycle]

Your bike will be fine doing what you've done already .Remember to check tire air pressure it may change while setting up .Almost all of my customers overlook that issue .

[Guzzistajohn]

What they said^^^ I've never "winterized" in 33 years on ownership with the same bike. Sometimes I top the gas off (if I remember) 

[Dirk_S]

I would recommend topping the tank off with fuel to prevent it from possibly rusting, and correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't ethanol begin to separate after only a few weeks if left untouched? Perhaps an argument for stabilizer? I also figured it was beneficial to get at least one of the tires off the ground to prevent potential flat spots. I've never taken steps to winterize my bikes as I tend to be a dummy and continue riding through salty New England winters, but those preventative steps make sense.

[Stevex]

Don't know how long your 'winter' is; over here in the UK it stretches for 5-6 months, I've given up riding in wet, cold conditions.
I drain my fuel tanks, whether plastic or steel. Give them a good wash prior to putting in the garage for the last time; if any fluids need replacing, do that at the start of storage; clean and lube chains, not required on the Guzzi, inflate tyres to 50 psi to prevent any chance of flat spotting. Luckily my garage is integral to the house, so doesn't get too cold and doesn't cause condensation. I have dust covers for each bike too.

[WHY]

Usually I top up on gas tank on my last ride of the  season, then add "seafoam" as fuel stabilizer. change oil and filter. battery on tender and thats all.

[berniebee]

I have a battery tender, and will be storing it indoors for the winter, but beyond that, what else is needed?

Should I drain the fuel? And if so, how is that done?

Anything else needed before winter storage?

Thanks!

Where are you storing it exactly? A temperature controlled and humidity controlled space? Inside an unheated shed sitting on the ground?  Are mice an issue?

For how long?

[malik]

We don't have that problem over here, but I would also cover EVERY exposed metal with ACF50. Avoids corrosion. The tank is plastic (if still original), so ethanol in the fuel is a concern. Do have the oils, filters, plugs, washers, o-rings & gaskets set aside for a service once the sun starts shining.

[bad Chad]

Don’t leave a float charger on all winter, it will cook the battery over time. 

At most hook it up a couple days a month.  If its going to sit for two months or longer, fuel stabilizer is a good idea.
Tires aren’t likely to flat spot, but if you’re concerned just move it a foot or two during hibernation.

[sign216]

The orig V7 had a parasitic electrical drain, and the battery had to be disconnected.  Actually, just disconnecting the neg terminal is enough.  I imagine w the every increasing electrical demands, the current draw while sitting is even greater.

I 2nd the idea of just using the float charger every now and then. 

And if you can find non-ethanol fuel, that is the best.  And would stay fresh for winter no problem, even without stabilizer.

Joe

[Muzz]

Don’t leave a float charger on all winter, it will cook the battery over time. 

At most hook it up a couple days a month.  If its going to sit for two months or longer, fuel stabilizer is a good idea.
Tires aren’t likely to flat spot, but if you’re concerned just move it a foot or two during hibernation.

I would back Chad up on that.

My Breva has a high parasitic drain; may be from the clock?  It appears to be a known problem.  I have found it better for battery life to let it discharge over say two-three weeks, and then charge it up fully.  It is supposed to get less sulphonation of the plates.  <shrug>  I seem to get pretty good battery life anyway.  Just don't forget to do the charge bit at about the right time; letting it go flat is not good.

As far as the fuel goes, mine goes off the road for four months over winter.  We don't have ethanol and up until recently I have never used stabiliser. Never had a problem with the old gas.  Even now the stuff that I use (mainly for the injectors) has stabiliser as a side bonus.

[OregonAl]

My 2010 cafe stays winterized from October-May each year. Fill with clear (non-ethanol) fuel. Add Yamaha brand fuel stabilizer. Air up tires to 40 psi. Put on a quality trickle charger. Done.

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I agree with everything here...  just keep in mind that bike has a nylon tank susceptible to swelling from ethanol fuel.

I would ride it one last time on the last clear day of the autumn, run the gas as low as you can, fill up with NON-ETHANOL fuel on the way home, and add a dash of fuel stabilizer. Check the fluids while it's warm, and top up as needed. Give it a good wash and blow it dry with a leaf blower...  Top up the tires and put it on a battery tender.  All good!

If you are worried about the battery, you can put a simple timer on the plug so that it only runs 2hrs a day...  or if you store it at home with easy access, you could just unplug and plug in the battery tender every few weeks for a day or so...  I dont think most people have no issues just leaving it on the tender full time- but some are convinced it will zap your battery.

I dont leave my tender on 24/7 all winter, mostly because my garage gets colder then the minimum opp temp recommended by the battery tender people (40deg F). I hook it up, and will just plug in the tender for a day when I'm working down there.... or if I know it will be warm that week, I might plug it in for several days.

[9fingers]

If you watch Fortnine, he would tell you to add whatever brand of fuel stabilizer did best in his test, and top of the tank all the way to the top. As for me, I would tell you to ride it at least one day each month over winter.
Scott

[Pescatore]

In the past I emptied the carb bowls and filled the tank
with premium 10E gas and stabilizer.
Reading this thread I thought I should try noE gas.
I searched for the elusive gas in my area and I finally
found it... I think.
It is labeled racing gas and its minimum octane is 110.
It also costs $10/gal.

I put in a gallon, mixed with about 2 gal of premium 10e.
Now the engine has a bit of hung throttle when I change gears.
No other change in performance.

I don't recall reading about side effects of noE gas, nor the 3x price.
Is this the right gas?  Is that what it usually costs?

[sign216]

In the past I emptied the carb bowls and filled the tank
with premium 10E gas and stabilizer.
Reading this thread I thought I should try noE gas.
I searched for the elusive gas in my area and I finally
found it... I think.
It is labeled racing gas and its minimum octane is 110.
It also costs $10/gal.

I put in a gallon, mixed with about 2 gal of premium 10e.
Now the engine has a bit of hung throttle when I change gears.
No other change in performance.

I don't recall reading about side effects of noE gas, nor the 3x price.
Is this the right gas?  Is that what it usually costs?

Pescatore,
I'm in Mass too.  Where did you get the race gas?  The place near me (Columbus Energies, Swansea) has it at the pump for about that price too.  Yes, for race gas you pay a premium.  I haven't used it, as I live w the sub-standard performance of stabilized ethanol for the winter.  In some parts of the country non-ethanol is more available, so that's why those people talk about it.

Edit:  If using puregas.org to find your non-ethanol, use caution.   Some sellers there offer aviation gas, which is leaded, and will quickly foul the catalytic converters of modern bikes.  But that stuff is okay for vintage machines.

Joe

[bad Chad]

Guys, your just wasting money buying racing gas.

Yes, E-10 sucks, but mixed with any quality stabilizer it will be fine over the entire New England off season.

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

In the past I emptied the carb bowls and filled the tank
with premium 10E gas and stabilizer.
Reading this thread I thought I should try noE gas.
I searched for the elusive gas in my area and I finally
found it... I think.
It is labeled racing gas and its minimum octane is 110.
It also costs $10/gal.

I put in a gallon, mixed with about 2 gal of premium 10e.
Now the engine has a bit of hung throttle when I change gears.
No other change in performance.

I don't recall reading about side effects of noE gas, nor the 3x price.
Is this the right gas?  Is that what it usually costs?

They have 93 octane E-free gas all over the south.. I would say30-40% of stations in WNC have it..  Most people here use it in their lawn equipment (weed eaters, chainsaws), generators, power washers etc...  A lot of people only use it for powersports stuff or motorcycles as well.  It usually costs about the same as E-10 premium, diesel, or just a couple cents more

[9fingers]

So the reality is the OP has to do absolutely nothing and the sun will still rise in the East and the world will continue to spin and his motorcycle will be fine, but...anything shy of the bike must be totally disassembled each part checked for tolerance then labeled, cataloged,  coated in $100 a gram NASA rated synthetic protective gel then individually cryo packed then bulked packed in a double layer Mylar cocoon and stored is a climate controlled bunker that is controlled to a millionth of a percent humidity and has 24/7 armed security is unacceptable. 

If you are not way over maintaining them you must be undermaintaining and neglecting them

Where can I get some of that "$100 a gram NASA rated synthetic protective gel"?

Scott

[Pescatore]

Pescatore,
I'm in Mass too.  Where did you get the race gas?  The place near me (Columbus Energies, Swansea) has it at the pump for about that price too.  Yes, for race gas you pay a premium.  I haven't used it, as I live w the sub-standard performance of stabilized ethanol for the winter.  In some parts of the country non-ethanol is more available, so that's why those people talk about it.

Edit:  If using puregas.org to find your non-ethanol, use caution.   Some sellers there offer aviation gas, which is leaded, and will quickly foul the catalytic converters of modern bikes.  But that stuff is okay for vintage machines.

Joe

Hi Joe, I went to Haffner's in Hudson NH.  Thanks for the info.

Ya'll, between the price and the idle adjust I would have to do, my test concludes with a thumbs down on Efree gas.  Maybe if I found a lower octane... nah, too expensive around here.
Stabilizer isn't so bad and the carbs pop out easily from the rubber manifold for cleaning.  I have to keep an eye on them white floats anyway.

[sign216]

Hi Joe, I went to Haffner's in Hudson NH.  Thanks for the info.

Ya'll, between the price and the idle adjust I would have to do, my test concludes with a thumbs down on Efree gas.  Maybe if I found a lower octane... nah, too expensive around here.
Stabilizer isn't so bad and the carbs pop out easily from the rubber manifold for cleaning.  I have to keep an eye on them white floats anyway.

Haffner's is my favorite!  Mainly because their station in Lowell has an old neon sign that lights up, showing a kicking mule.  I'm 100% on ethanol free, but you just can't get it in New Eng. without paying double or triple.  So I mainly run ethanol in my modern machines (vintage is diff).