California III rebuild

[Goran]

California III, 1993 model which I bought last year in England. The motorcycle stood for almost two years in a garage. It was bought very cheaply, so of course, it has its flaws.
Upon arrival I did a visual inspection, take the fuel tank and seat down and there was a lot of corrosion on the frame. Also, engine and gearbox was coverd with old oil stains and filth.
Everything seen gave me guidelines on what I needed to do.... Take everything apart...  I measured the compression and oil pressure and that's fine so I won't touch the engine for now.










 

[Goran]

Further disassembly showed it how much corrosion it's on the frame:

[Goran]

Part by part and the disassembly goes according to plan. Some screws required heating, others snapped, but all in all, ok.
Just one piece of evidence that a motorcycle doesn’t like standing still, especially if there is moisture.

[Goran]

So... Here it is.. In pieces... 
Next; sandblasting and then painting..

[rutgery]

Nice going! Make sure to blank off the sump breather holes in the frame 

[Goran]

Nice going! Make sure to blank off the sump breather holes in the frame 

No worries, it’s resolved. Along with the bearing seats of swingarm and everything else... 

[Goran]

So... Life goes on... Also the one in the workshop...

Paint job.... I was thinking, should I powder coat the frame or to do an old fashioned paint job? Somehow, I decide to paint it. It's easier to repair any damage that can be done in the process of assembling.
I painted the parts myself. It's not rocket technology you just have to have the conditions and the tools. And of course love for what you do... And a little bit of luck... 

[Goran]

Next on the menu; external cleaning of engine and gearbox;











Cleaning and inspection on rear drive:

[Goran]

Replacement of oil seals and bearings on rear drive and assembling it back together:





Clutch and flywheel removal; lots of dirt....











New clutch set is waiting...




monopoly dice app


Timing chain inspection and the conclusion that it needs to be replaced....









 

[Goran]

New timing chain is in place:





Removing and cleaning of the oil pan:













For now, this is it.... Still need to install new clutch set and join the engine and gearbox back together so that the frame can go back to meet the engine.

[Dirk S.]

Hi, it all looks like you know what you are doing and how to do it properly.

But please replace the universal joint with the bearing as a precaution.

The frame was extremely rusty! ok in england the weather is not suitable to leave an old bike sitting in a damp and cold garage for a long time, but apparently the battery had leaked. make sure there is no loose rust in the tubes (knock on them with a rubber mallet and if possible flood with hot grease).  the upper transversely installed thick tube, to which the two vents are connected, is very sensitive. condensation collects there and rusts from the inside. also the thick upper tube, which comes from the steering head.

good luck!

[Goran]

But please replace the universal joint with the bearing as a precaution.

I have made a detailed inspection of the universal joint, comparing it with the old ones I have. I didn't find any problems. Also, with the papers that have come with the bike, universal joint has been changed before 11,000 km. Don't think that I need to change it again. But I changed the universal joint bearing inside the swinging arm.

[Dirk S.]

OK
my theory in the matter is that a joint already mounted once is a one-way solution.

i always put a new joint and bearing together warm/cold. the joint should be very cold and the bearing in the swingarm as hot as possible. you can almost push it in with your thumb.
if you later take it apart, the fit is messed up. because both have the same temperature, there is no other way.
now you take a new one bearing and the messed up fit on the joint, even bang the two together at the same temperature, then you can bet that the joint will eventually anneal because it can no longer hold the inner ring of the bearing.
this can happen, but it does not have to.

if i have to take it out of the swingarm, i'll install a new set. It´s about 170 euro (locally), not too expensive, see the pic, all you need isincluded.  if the joint doesn't literally fall out of the swingarm into my lap, i'll leave it together. it won't get any better.
you may call it philosophy, but i believe in it.
 


Cheers ... Dirk

[Goran]

Now one question... About release bearing:

Here is how it looks new:



And here is how mine looks:







Why is the top grinded? Does anyone have any idea?

[Dirk S.]

Maybe someone grinded it to look at it without removing the motor/gearbox. The space is then very tight, and grinded he could maybe install it.
I have never tried this, so i am simply guessing.
Greets Dirk

[Goran]

Does anyone else have any opinion? Change or leave it as is?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Does anyone else have any opinion? Change or leave it as is?

If it feels good - no play or tightness - and fits snug in the carrier bearing, then I'd run it. If it doesn't fit snug in the carrier bearing, one can use a punch to make rows of dimples on the u-joint where it fits into the carrier bearing to effectively enlarge the diameter. Loctite 680 can also be used to ensure a tight fit.

[Turin]

Any updates?