Lubing clutch splines

[dxhall]

I’m ready to put the transmission back in the CalVin. As I am cleaning the pieces for reassembly, I am wondering about the appearance of the clutch splines and input shaft gear - there is what appears to be rust on both sets of splines, but I have never ridden this bike in the rain.

I usually assemble these things dry.  Given the rust I see, though, I am tempted to put a dry film lube like this on the splines.  Anyone tried this?

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03044-Lubricating-Spray-Weight/dp/B0013J84BY/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6LLkrsG-9gIVDyCtBh3ZOgjGEAMYAyAAEgKHy_D_BwE&hvadid=410019053278&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1022588&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6273496433123582778&hvtargid=kwd-4053384784&hydadcr=2394_11264791&keywords=dry%2Bfilm%2Blube&qid=1647017350&sr=8-4&th=1

[guzzisteve]

NO, NO, it's not a BMW. Anything you put on there ends up on your clutch plates pads.

[dxhall]

You’re thinking if I lube the splines the bike might pull towards the nearest Starbucks?

[moto-uno]

  Should you decide to use a lubricant , it should be thin enough to leave a rust reduction layer .
  No oils , when I've done it , I use a toothbrush to clean the splines afterwards . Once again ,
  very little , that way there's basically nothing left to fling off . Enjoy the job . Peter

[guzziart]

  Should you decide to use a lubricant , it should be thin enough to leave a rust reduction layer .
  No oils , when I've done it , I use a toothbrush to clean the splines afterwards . Once again ,
  very little , that way there's basically nothing left to fling off . Enjoy the job . Peter

  Toothbrush.      I used Honda Moly 60...very, very, thin coat on my '72 Eldo, 5K miles ago without problems. If I ever have to lube clutch splines I don't know what I'll use because I no longer have any moly60.  More recently I bought Wirth grease for the rear wheel drive splines and I think I also used it on the drive shaft splines.

[guzzisteve]

You’re thinking if I lube the splines the bike might pull towards the nearest Starbucks?

Most likely have warranty issues
Got to be careful when plates scrape on hub nothing builds up to fling off.

[dxhall]

My concern about even a non-flinging grease like the Wurth spline grease is that it would hold the particles which wear off the clutch plates and form a sort of grinding paste, which would then cause increased wear on the splines.  I thought the dry lube wouldn’t do that.  Haven’t tried it, though.

[guzzisteve]

Better to not lube & be dry than have clutch dust stick to it. And there is plenty of clutch dust.

[lucky phil]

I’m ready to put the transmission back in the CalVin. As I am cleaning the pieces for reassembly, I am wondering about the appearance of the clutch splines and input shaft gear - there is what appears to be rust on both sets of splines, but I have never ridden this bike in the rain.

I usually assemble these things dry.  Given the rust I see, though, I am tempted to put a dry film lube like this on the splines.  Anyone tried this?

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03044-Lubricating-Spray-Weight/dp/B0013J84BY/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6LLkrsG-9gIVDyCtBh3ZOgjGEAMYAyAAEgKHy_D_BwE&hvadid=410019053278&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1022588&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6273496433123582778&hvtargid=kwd-4053384784&hydadcr=2394_11264791&keywords=dry%2Bfilm%2Blube&qid=1647017350&sr=8-4&th=1

Yes a very light coat brushed on from a spray can. I used the same stuff we used on jet engine fan blade dovetails which you can buy retail but any dry moly coating will work. Old style greases have their long term issues. Dry lubes work perfectly in this situation. You can even use it very sparingly on the steel plate fingers and flywheel splines.

Ciao

[lucky phil]

My concern about even a non-flinging grease like the Wurth spline grease is that it would hold the particles which wear off the clutch plates and form a sort of grinding paste, which would then cause increased wear on the splines.  I thought the dry lube wouldn’t do that.  Haven’t tried it, though.

The wear particles off the clutch plate tend to get flung outwards and are softer material than the hub and splines.

Ciao

[lucian]

I use a dry graphite powder, mixed / suspended in acetone and brush it on the spines and hub with a flux brush. The acetone quickly evaporates and leaves a very fine black coating that serves as dry lube and  rust inhibitor, blow off any access with compressed air chuck and assemble.

[lucky phil]

That would work I guess. Not sure whether the commercial spray versions have a binding agent in them as well as the delivery solvent to aid "cling" Might be worth researching.

Ciao

[lazlokovacs]

I assemble dry.....

 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Just say no.. <shrug>

[lucian]

On the Maine coast rust never sleeps.  Dry graphite actually helps , and old timer taught me this and he used to scrub threads with pencil lead which is graphite and years later we would pull apart some of his work to find  he was right. I use it
anywhere that grease is not an option with good results , I also mix it with linseed oil for some applications like my woodworking vises ect.

[Scout63]

Live and learn. I’ve been using a 50/50 wheel bearing grease Honda Moly mix brushed on very thinly.  Same mixture I use for driveshaft and rear end.  This is a holdover from my BMW wrenching.  I haven’t noticed any contamination of clutch plates, and worry more about the clutch hub/plates hanging up. Now that Honda moly is not available in tubes I bought a tub of Rectorseal moly but haven’t tried it yet. Next time maybe I’ll forego the grease, but I’m not sure I could get myself to assemble dry. Great thread.

[John A]

New clutch hubs are already dry film treated from the manufacturer is what I was told, check MG cycle. It would be a process to preclude the possibility of any shedding. Vapor degreased, sprayed at high pressure and temp, cured, brushed and all that jazz.. I agree that any grease is a bad idea for the reasons already mentioned: sling off and making a grinding paste