1973 V7 Sport Cylinder Relining Millennium

[Tom H]

Before you buy a lift, you might check to see if you have a tool/equipment rental near you. Years ago, there were lifts that you attached to a trailer hitch and towed it.

If you have the room to store one, they can be very handy. For one thing, I use one to change my back tire, and the front on my HD.

Tom

[Richiez22908]

Yup... thought about rental... but at Harbor Freight they're only $200. Can grab one and sell it for $100 when I'm done, lol. Might keep it. Like you said, could come in handy!

[Scout63]

The Harbor Freight lift is a great lift for the money. Once you have one you will never want to be without it.

[Richiez22908]

Been a while since I’ve updated. Life gets in the way but my daughter and I have made slow progress. Millennia still has the cylinders and pistons and we’ve finally got the frame and motor both supported. So now just disconnecting everything, undoing the lower frame and lowering the drivetrain and raising the frame. Then wheel the drivetrain on out.

[czakky82]

That frame looks great! Keep at it!

[cliffrod]

Reality does have a way of laying waste to the best-made plans…

Thanks for the new pics.  It’s looking good. 

[Richiez22908]

Thanks for all the encouragement!!

...and FINALLY!!!

[cliffrod]

Very cool.  Great to see your progress.

[Tom H]

Nice work!!!

If you need to pull the rear main bearing, I would suggest the correct tool ( I tried a proven method using set screws and bolts and broke a section of the flange off. Maybe more experience would have helped with this method, my bearing was stuck). Kinda expensive to buy the tool for a one time use, maybe someone near you could rent it or loan it, or maybe a shop rent one or just have them pull the bearing and pay the few bucks. The bearing is not cheap, $140-350 depending on size and who has one.

Good luck!!!
Tom

[Richiez22908]

Nice work!!!

If you need to pull the rear main bearing, I would suggest the correct tool ( I tried a proven method using set screws and bolts and broke a section of the flange off. Maybe more experience would have helped with this method, my bearing was stuck). Kinda expensive to buy the tool for a one time use, maybe someone near you could rent it or loan it, or maybe a shop rent one or just have them pull the bearing and pay the few bucks. The bearing is not cheap, $140-350 depending on size and who has one.

Good luck!!!
Tom

Thanks!!

I main pull it as, although the seal was replaced, it appears to still be leaking. Also want the check the condition of the bearing and area from the chrome that came off the cylinder. I'll see if I can borrow, rent a puller... if not maybe I'll bite the bullet and buy one.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I've had good luck with the jack screws to pull the bearing.. but.. one was stuck and I *knew* I was going to break that casting. I set it on the back and used the crankshaft for a driver. <shrug>

[Richiez22908]

I just went ahead and ordered a puller from MGCycle. For $40 its not worth the hassle or worry of trying something else.

[blackcat]

I just went ahead and ordered a puller from MGCycle. For $40 its not worth the hassle or worry of trying something else.

Well worth the money IMO.

[Tom H]

Chuck,

While trying the jack it out method, I snapped off a flange. I had the engine in the bike still because I just needed to replace the gasket and seal, the gasket was leaking. It was the first time I tried to remove a rear main. I was being careful, not ham fisted, but the bearing was one of the stuck ones. I didn't know how they should come out. I heard a pop and thought it's coming, yeah!!, the flange was but not the bearing.

If I would have known how it should come out. I whould have stopped, pulled the engine, tore it all down so I could drive out the bearing with the crank.

On the same engine, I had to pull the rear main a few days ago. Borrowed the tool and the bearing just about fell out. The jacking method would have worked without issue.

On the other hand, Richie you listening, While using the proper puller, the bearing can still be tough to get out. I have been helping a friend and have had to pull a few rear mains. Some came out with a firm finger twist of the tool. Others needed to have heat applied (think heat gun) to the bearing flange while having the puller tightened up firmly. Then when hot tighten a bit more, heat and repeat.

When it comes time to pull it, if in any doubt ask for advise!!

Tom

[Don G]

Every rear bearing that I have removed was done with a 3 or 4 pound plastic dead blow hammer, put a piece of wood between the crank and bench to keep the assembly from falling too far when it comes loose, a couple of whacks is all it takes. DonG

[smdl]

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but while you're in there, here are the things you'll want to check:

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_engine_out__check_these_things.html

Also, read Charlie's recommendations for what sealants to use on the second post in this thread:

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=83176.10

Best of luck!

Shaun

[Frenchfrog]

I've done Don's method without flaws too.

[Richiez22908]

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but while you're in there, here are the things you'll want to check:

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_engine_out__check_these_things.html

Also, read Charlie's recommendations for what sealants to use on the second post in this thread:

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=83176.10

Best of luck!

Shaun

Thanks! Will do!

[Richiez22908]

Ok another dumb question. So I see a hardened pin on MGCycle to assist removing the alternator. What’s the best procedure? Should I get that pin and insert it and then do as directed on that’s site? If says to insert the bolt again and tighten some, then tap the alternator with a soft mallet, etc.

[Frenchfrog]

That's the safe thing to do....do not be tempted to use any old piece of rod as it will mushroom , not get the rotor off and bugger up the crank thread.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Ok another dumb question. So I see a hardened pin on MGCycle to assist removing the alternator. What’s the best procedure? Should I get that pin and insert it and then do as directed on that’s site? If says to insert the bolt again and tighten some, then tap the alternator with a soft mallet, etc.

I don't recommend using that pin, seen too many get stuck. Use one of these instead:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-rotor642tool.htm

Unless the rotor is really stuck, it'll pop off while you tighten the tool. If not, tighten, then tap the end of the tool with a hammer.

[Richiez22908]

I don't recommend using that pin, seen too many get stuck. Use one of these instead:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-rotor642tool.htm

Unless the rotor is really stuck, it'll pop off while you tighten the tool. If not, tighten, then tap the end of the tool with a hammer.

Ordered!!

And... while I have you, lol... where can I get the tools to remove the flywheel, etc on other end? Ring gear and clutch are off, but I see other tools used for the next steps in the manual. I should also get the clamp that keeps it from turning, I assume... just used a wooden shim when taking off the ring gear bolts.

Thanks again!!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Ordered!!

And... while I have you, lol... where can I get the tools to remove the other end? Ring gear and clutch are off, but I see other tools used for the next steps in the manual. I should also get the clamp that keeps it from turning, I assume... just used a wooden shim when taking off the ring gear bolts.

Thanks again!!

I don't use any "special" tools to remove or install the flywheel. Thread two M8 bolts into two ring gear bolt holes and slip a prybar in between them. Works for installation too.





When installing the ring gear, I just use a small prybar to engage the teeth and rest the shaft of the prybar on one of the engine studs.

[Richiez22908]

I don't use any "special" tools to remove or install the flywheel. Thread two M8 bolts into two ring gear bolt holes and slip a prybar in between them. Works for installation too.





When installing the ring gear, I just use a small prybar to engage the teeth and rest the shaft of the prybar on one of the engine studs.

Sorry.. I was at the wrong end in the manual... meant his on the front:

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Sorry.. I was at the wrong end in the manual... meant his on the front:

Just a little different.  The cam gear (or sprocket) is held on with hex nut (27 mm socket), but the crank gear (or sprocket) is retained with a "ring nut" with four notches. You'll need a tool like this for the ring nut:
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=840

For disassembly, a "rattle gun" (air or electric impact wrench) works well. The ring nut has a locking washer behind it with one tang bent into the notch, that will need to be drifted out of the notch before removal.

For reassembly, I lock the flywheel from turning, to tighten those nuts.

If you have a gear driven cam, you'll need a small three-legged puller to remove the oil pump drive gear. 

[Richiez22908]

Just a little different.  The cam gear (or sprocket) is held on with hex nut (27 mm socket), but the crank gear (or sprocket) is retained with a "ring nut" with four notches. You'll need a tool like this for the ring nut:
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=840

For disassembly, a "rattle gun" (air or electric impact wrench) works well. The ring nut has a locking washer behind it with one tang bent into the notch, that will need to be drifted out of the notch before removal.

For reassembly, I lock the flywheel from turning, to tighten those nuts.

If you have a gear driven cam, you'll need a small three-legged puller to remove the oil pump drive gear.

Thank you!! I saw that little puller on the image in the manual that follows those two... hopefully MGCycle has it.

[Richiez22908]

While waiting on the tools to remove the front, I removed the flywheel, rear main and piston rods.

Took some pcs to see what damage might have resulted from ay chrome in the oil, but not sure what I'm looking for. Going to replace the rod bearings, obviously... and assumedly should bite the bullet and replace the rear main as well? Snd how do I know to go with standard or oversize... and front one too?  As far as the crank, so far... does this look like any damage from chrome or just normal wear?

[Richiez22908]

If you have a gear driven cam, you'll need a small three-legged puller to remove the oil pump drive gear.

Any idea where to get one that fits the threads? Not having much luck.

This work? https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/parts-puller-installer/p/oemtools-timing-gear-and-pulley-puller/231208_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:8367255572&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr4eYBhDrARIsANPywCiJLj1ZtGE7VePvKh73uQ4gEKu_pgtke7RHUmlClG45hTgpxq2J5cEaAibAEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[czakky82]

Something like this will work. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-three-jaw-gear-puller-69224.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789304718&adsetid=117789304718&product=69224&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr4eYBhDrARIsANPywCiS9CjbViwVpsIWnR3h67iiKB6xn-bb66xOMl_bsl-M9ooia355M-4aAkFWEALw_wcB

Somebody replaced your rear main seal at some point.
Chrome flakes are likely embedded in your bearings, they will need to be replaced. I’ve got a new 1under front, I’ll sell for cheap.
Best to take your crank to a machine shop and have them inspect/measure for you. Might polish out (doubtful), might need to re-grind.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The 3 legged puller I use is the smallest of my three, a 3". It was part of a 3-piece set from Harbor Freight, like this 4-piece set they sell now.
https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-4-piece-63760.html

I recently bought one of these, and it may work also.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QKJHC61