1973 V7 Sport Cylinder Relining Millennium

[Richiez22908]

Somebody replaced your rear main seal at some point.
Chrome flakes are likely embedded in your bearings, they will need to be replaced. I’ve got a new 1under front, I’ll sell for cheap.
Best to take your crank to a machine shop and have them inspect/measure for you. Might polish out (doubtful), might need to re-grind.

Yeah I'll get one to take a look at it. Yes the rear main seal is fairly new but I have another. But I guess a new bearing is in order.

How do I know whether to use standard or oversized... and 1 under means?

Sorry.. and thank you!

[Frenchfrog]

The machinist will have to inspect and measure with a micrometer.1st over  means that the new bearing is slightly oversized and matches what has been machined off.

[Richiez22908]

The machinist will have to inspect and measure with a micrometer.1st over  means that the new bearing is slightly oversized and matches what has been machined off.

Ok so the machine shop will let me know what size based upon any work they do to it?

Thanks again.

[czakky82]

Ok so the machine shop will let me know what size based upon any work they do to it?

Thanks again.

Yes, it’s best to have the bearings in hand so they can grind to that size.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Yes, it’s best to have the bearings in hand so they can grind to that size.

I've never sent the bearings along with any crank I've had ground. I simply provide them with a copy of the pertinent pages from the shop manual, they determine what undersize is needed, and then grind the crank to those specs.

[Tom H]

You've made some headway.

Some tool thoughts.

If you need a 2 or 3 leg puller, check your local auto parts to see if they have one for loan or rent.

For something to hold the crank from turning, at least while the flywheel is on, a scrap bit of metal with two holes drilled in it. Use like this and set for the direction you are turning. You want to pull the bolts apart, not push together. Last bolt use a screwdriver in the ring gear:




For the clutch install, you can use the trans input shaft splined hub and the appropriate bolt.





A note for the clutch install. There should be an arrow on the lip of your flywheel. If you look at my pic you will see a black line that is lined up with the arrow. That line is exactly between two teeth that the pressure plate slides down in. There is a stamped dot on the pressure plate, it goes exactly in line with the arrow, between the two teeth. This lines up the spring location holes.

Another FYI. The arrow is for TDC LH side. When you put the crank and bearings in, turn the crank so that it is fully up on the LH side in the hole for the cylinder.. Then slide the flywheel on with the arrow lined up at the LH little nib cast into the block. The bolt holes should just about be lined up, maybe a half bolt hole or less. Line up and install at least one bolt to keep in place. Double check the your work, it will be obvious if you picked the wrong bolt hole. You might want to mark the crank and flywheel with a dab of paint or a sharpie. This will keep your timing marks correct.

Hope this helps a bit.
Tom

[Tom H]

A timing chain tip that helps at least me.

Before you remove the timing chain and gears. Line up the timing marks on the gears. This will be TDC LH. Then paint or sharpie a line on each gear from a link on the chain to the gear.

When you go to install the chain and gears. Put the cam and crank gear on and see where the marks line up. Remove gears or gear and rotate the crank or cam as needed to line up the marks. Remove gears without moving the cam or crank.

Then lay out your chain on a table. Set all the gears into the chain lining up the paint marks. Then sorta wind up the chain on the gears so that you can pick them up as a complete set. You'll understand this after dropping them a few times.

Then put the crank gear on just a little in the correct place for the key way. The sorta unwind the chain/gears so that the gears will slide on the shafts and slide the cam gear on and also the oil pump gear.

Once the gears are aligned on the keys on the cam and crank shafts, your paint marks should all be lined up. If not, remove and adjust as needed.

The oil pump key way can be aligned by rotating the oil pump shaft, then slide the key in after the gear is on.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[Richiez22908]

You've made some headway.

Some tool thoughts.

If you need a 2 or 3 leg puller, check your local auto parts to see if they have one for loan or rent.

For something to hold the crank from turning, at least while the flywheel is on, a scrap bit of metal with two holes drilled in it. Use like this and set for the direction you are turning. You want to pull the bolts apart, not push together. Last bolt use a screwdriver in the ring gear:




For the clutch install, you can use the trans input shaft splined hub and the appropriate bolt.





A note for the clutch install. There should be an arrow on the lip of your flywheel. If you look at my pic you will see a black line that is lined up with the arrow. That line is exactly between two teeth that the pressure plate slides down in. There is a stamped dot on the pressure plate, it goes exactly in line with the arrow, between the two teeth. This lines up the spring location holes.

Another FYI. The arrow is for TDC LH side. When you put the crank and bearings in, turn the crank so that it is fully up on the LH side in the hole for the cylinder.. Then slide the flywheel on with the arrow lined up at the LH little nib cast into the block. The bolt holes should just about be lined up, maybe a half bolt hole or less. Line up and install at least one bolt to keep in place. Double check the your work, it will be obvious if you picked the wrong bolt hole. You might want to mark the crank and flywheel with a dab of paint or a sharpie. This will keep your timing marks correct.

Hope this helps a bit.
Tom

Thank you!!!

[Richiez22908]

A timing chain tip that helps at least me.

Before you remove the timing chain and gears. Line up the timing marks on the gears. This will be TDC LH. Then paint or sharpie a line on each gear from a link on the chain to the gear.

When you go to install the chain and gears. Put the cam and crank gear on and see where the marks line up. Remove gears or gear and rotate the crank or cam as needed to line up the marks. Remove gears without moving the cam or crank.

Then lay out your chain on a table. Set all the gears into the chain lining up the paint marks. Then sorta wind up the chain on the gears so that you can pick them up as a complete set. You'll understand this after dropping them a few times.

Then put the crank gear on just a little in the correct place for the key way. The sorta unwind the chain/gears so that the gears will slide on the shafts and slide the cam gear on and also the oil pump gear.

Once the gears are aligned on the keys on the cam and crank shafts, your paint marks should all be lined up. If not, remove and adjust as needed.

The oil pump key way can be aligned by rotating the oil pump shaft, then slide the key in after the gear is on.

Hope this helps,
Tom

Thank you!! I'll know when I get the bell housing off but I think one is the early ones without the chain. We'll see!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Thank you!! I'll know when I get the bell housing timing cover off but I think one is the early ones without the chain. We'll see!

The timing chain started with engine 33448.

[Richiez22908]

The timing chain started with engine 33448.

Yup... like I thought... Mine's 32160

[Tom H]

Then it looks like you have gears, not chain. My apologies.

There should be "factory" painted marks on the teeth of the gears. IIRR, the cam has a mark that covers two teeth and the crank just on one tooth. Maybe the other way around.

Much easier than the chain!!
Tom

[Richiez22908]

Then it looks like you have gears, not chain. My apologies.

There should be "factory" painted marks on the teeth of the gears. IIRR, the cam has a mark that covers two teeth and the crank just on one tooth. Maybe the other way around.

Much easier than the chain!!
Tom

Thank you!!!

[John A]

Make sure you clean the sludge trap.  It’s best to use a new plug.

[Richiez22908]

So got back in town and the alternator tool and gear pullers had arrived. Used the alternator tool today, but no go... it goes all the way in until the cap is at the front of the alternator... but alternator doesn't budge... any ideas???







I wanted to add that I already have everything off the rear of the crank… is that why? Do I need to put something back on or in the rear of it?

[czakky82]

Something’s not right. Where’s the original rotor bolt?

There are two sets of threads one set in the rotor, the other set in the crank. The tool is just a hardened piece of steel that stops the bolt from going to the rotor but engages the rotor threads. Make sense?

[Tom H]

I want to know why as well??

The tools tip should bottom out in the nose of the crank shaft with some threads still showing. Snug up firmly and give it a rap with a hammer. Repeat as needed.  Be prepared to catch the rotor as it flies off.

Tom

[blackcat]

I've always used this piece with the original bolt.

[Richiez22908]

Yeah seems weird that it wouldn't bottom out sooner and push the alternator off.

But I see what you mea about two sets of threads... the regular bolt threads thru the first set then into the second deeper set. So maybe I do just need that little push rod instead.

[czakky82]

I see now. What’s the diameter of that tool?

[Richiez22908]

I see now. What’s the diameter of that tool?

Here it is:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-rotor642tool.htm

The tip is 10mm diameter. Wrong one assumedly?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Yeah seems weird that it wouldn't bottom out sooner and push the alternator off.

But I see what you mea about two sets of threads... the regular bolt threads thru the first set then into the second deeper set. So maybe I do just need that little push rod instead.

I have the same tool (except black oxide) and have used it dozens of times, never had it go in that far, always worked. I have had the "fun" of removing one of those short pieces that was jammed into the nose of a crank. You should not need anything but the tool.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Here it is:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-rotor642tool.htm

The tip is 10mm diameter. Wrong one assumedly?

The tip can't be 10 mm - the threaded portion is M8-1.25 and it's smaller than that.

[Richiez22908]

I have the same tool (except black oxide) and have used it dozens of times, never had it go in that far, always worked. I have had the "fun" of removing one of those short pieces that was jammed into the nose of a crank. You should not need anything but the tool.

Yeah something's off... hopefully with the tool and not the motor, lol.

[Richiez22908]

Yeah something's off... hopefully with the tool and not the motor, lol.

You're right... sorry about 6mm

Do I need to put anything back in or on the back of the crank?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

You're right... sorry about 6mm

Do I need to put anything back in or on the back of the crank?

Having the parts off the back shouldn't have any effect. However, it wouldn't hurt to slip the rear main bearing back in place a little to help support the crank while you finish disassembly.

[Richiez22908]

So sorry all and thank you of quick responses.... but its fine.

I put it all the way in again and then used some elbow grease and it turned another quarter turn and the alternator popped right off.

Sorry again... just got nervous and didn't want to break anything... that last quarter turn felt a lot more like bottoming out... the rest of the way was so smooth.

Thank you again!!!

[cliffrod]

Better to be cautious than break parts. 

[Richiez22908]

Better to be cautious than break parts.

I appreciate your understanding. Fortunately everything on this bike has come apart cleanly... so I was probably more resistant to pushing my luck this time.

Hoping it all goes together as well!

[Richiez22908]

So aside from the marks that are already there, and the picture I took to look back on, anything else I need to mark here or take note of before taking the gears off and the crank out?