U/J Carrier bearing collapse

[izzug otom]

Hi there all. Riding my '95 Cali, fortunately I was near home and at slow 20mph'ish speed, when I heard an unsettling clanking noise, not unsimilar to the sound of the centre stand being flicked up.

I stopped, the engine seemed to run fine. I limped it the 1/2 mile back home, and heard similar noises a couple of times on the way.

Back home on the centre stand I inspected the running gear and soon located it to the drive shaft around the u/joint. So I got reading all about the shaft drive's workings to make sure I understood the mechanism clearly.
As I tried to spin the rear wheel by hand on the c/stand, it would lock up within half a turn in either direction a good few times, before it freed off, but it didn't feel smooth.

I managed to pull the rubber boot back just enough to confirm this, when I found there was a bit of detritus in there. With my magnetic screwdriver I managed to pull a couple of metallic fragments out of the narrow gap between the rubber boot and the rear motor casing, which were well crudded up, rusty needles, obviously from the U/J carrier bearing.

So I'm about to pull the swing arm to check the full extent of the damage, and order some parts. At first I thought the u/j was disintegrating, but I'm assuming the worst, in that if the bearing has collapsed it may have harmed the u/j too. I'm not sure if the u/j can withstand the violent movement it's subjected to when the carrier bearing collapses, but I'm about to find out

I've read many posts about the removal of the swing arm, and hearing some stories of the swing arm pivot pins being siezed up, I feared the worst, as I've never had the swing arm off in the 9 yrs I've owned the bike.

Much to my surprise, after freeing off the stubborn pivot pin cap nuts, the pivot pins are not seized at all, as if they'd just been fitted the day before. I was sure not to move them, so I can accurately note how many turns each side that the're screwed in.

So I'm just about to have at it and remove the wheel and swing arm, and would just like to ask before I do, if there is anything I should be aware of, and anything else I need to do in advance to make sure everything goes smoothly.

Obviously I need to undo the shocks from the swing arm, and tie the brake calliper up out of the way, but do I have to remove the drive bevel box from the rear of the swing arm, in order to service the u/j and carrier bearing, or can the servicing be carried out if it's left attached.

Any other helpful tips would be most appreciated too.

Cheers, Martin

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

If you found "needles", then it's the u-joint. The carrier bearing is a ball bearing.

I would remove the rear drive from the swingarm - the swingarm is much easier to handle without it and you'll want to inspect and lube the splines anyway.

[izzug otom]

Thanks Charlie, that's much appreciated

"If you found "needles", then it's the u-joint. The carrier bearing is a ball bearing."

Ah thank you, I'd misunderstood that somewhere in my reading. I'm a complete novice here , it's my first experience with a drive train repair.

"I would remove the rear drive from the swingarm - the swingarm is much easier to handle without it and you'll want to inspect and lube the splines anyway."

I wondered if that might be so, thanks for making that clear. I'm sure that's best done, or at least the nuts/bolts are cracked unstuck, whilst rigidly attached to the bike.

I much appreciate the links, but sorry, I should have perhaps mentioned, I'm in the UK. I had found one similarly priced to the economy u/j you linked, from Gutsibits, uk, but they're to order, come from italy, who are on their national holiday throughout August, so will take 4-5 weeks to arrive. I've found a few used ones, including a complete swing arm with the uj still installed.

However, I'm not feeling great about fitting an old used one, as mine was a used one, since '95, 60'ish thousand miles (to the best of my knowledge), and that one failed. I can't afford the ones that are a few hundred bucks, but not seen one of these available in the UK. . . . I need to resolve this somehow.

If I fit an old used one, I think I might just worry too much, as I've read some serious horror stories of them failing catastrophically at high speeds.

It doesn't look like anything mechanically that I can't handle, no doubt with some helpful advice here, and I guess if I have no option but to fit a used one, I could tear it down again in the Winter and replace with a new budget u/j, but seems a bit crazy to plan to do the job twice.

Cheers Martin

[izzug otom]

I should explain, my Cali is my only form of transport, the reason I can't afford to order the new one and wait 4-5 weeks 

[tris]

You're in the UK?

There used to be a place in the Team Valley Industrial Estate (Newcastle) that could rebuild them IIRC

If not and you're near a big town there might be someone else nearby that could help

Good luck

[Scout63]

Great handle izzug otom.  Pulling the swingarm is pretty straightforward.  There is a large circlip holding the carrier bearing in.  The ujoint kit is expensive. I would replace the carrier bearing with the ujoint.  This is also a great time to check the clutch pushrod seals and thrust bearing at the back of the gearbox, and to grease the shaft and rear drive splines. Heck why not crab the frame and check the clutch and rear main seal while the bike is apart. Then you are good for a minor lifetime. I think these are very rewarding jobs on the bikes. Best of luck.

[kidsmoke]

time or money, you'll simply have to pick one!

It's still business hours stateside and MG Cycle typically ships my orders WITHIN MINUTES of reciept. Pay for expedited intl shipping? I'm sure it would cost a mint but you'd have your parts soon and be able to do the job once, and thoroughly with new parts.

Don't be tempted to leave the carrier bearing in situ, change both bits while you're in there.

I have an '00 Jackal. This was the inner race of the carrier bearing. The bike was running at or near the ton with the race like this. U-joint, while a bit sloppy, was still functioning.

[Tom H]

Try here. Might take less time and maybe cheaper shipping to you:

https://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi:::1.html?language=en

As mentioned, maybe someone local can rebuild it. The carrier bearing may be available at a bearing house. U-joint boot you'd likely have to get from a Guzzi shop.

Tom

[Stretch]

Good Luck, izzug otom! 

It's probably best to replace to replace both the U-joint AND carrier bearings -  but it
sounds as if your budget and need for transport will determine how much you do
right now.

Oh  - and Kidsmoke - that's ULGY! LOL!

                                                          -Stretch

[izzug otom]

You're in the UK?

There used to be a place in the Team Valley Industrial Estate (Newcastle) that could rebuild them IIRC

If not and you're near a big town there might be someone else nearby that could help

Good luck

Thanks Tris, I'll follow this up and check if there's anywhere localish with a good reputation, assuming the the outer casing isn't messed up and the spline hugging teeth are in good shape. 

[izzug otom]

Great handle izzug otom.  I would replace the carrier bearing with the ujoint."

Haha, cheers 

Yes, I'd like reassure everyone, that there's no way in this world that I'd replace the u/j, without changing the carrier bearing. I'm sure I'd be beating myself up at a later date if I did  . . . I've read the horror stories, and even if you save it at speed, there's still the underwear to clean or dispose of 

"This is also a great time to check the clutch pushrod seals and thrust bearing at the back of the gearbox, and to grease the shaft and rear drive splines. Heck why not crab the frame and check the clutch and rear main seal while the bike is apart. Then you are good for a minor lifetime. I think these are very rewarding jobs on the bikes. Best of luck.

You know, I'd been wondering if I'd be able to check the clutch thrust bearing. I was on a trip on a small block nevada from UK down to Marseille, Sth France, then along the South coast of France to Italy and up to Lake Como, then Nth Italy, Switzerland, France back to the UK . . . Or that was the plan 

I had my friend Edele as pillion, and going to meet my girlfriend who was flying to Lake Como for a friends wedding, after which my friend Edele would fly back to the UK and my g/friend would pillion for the rest of the trip.

Man, what a tough old road trip it turned out to be. The original plan was to ride to Santander, Nth Spain, and ride across the Pyrenees before reaching the South coast of France, but 30 miles from home on the motorway, the solenoid fuel tap decided we weren't going any further, so we got towed back home. Luckilly I managed to get the tickets postponed from the ferry company, and used them the following year for an amazing road trip through Spain south over the Picos de Europa mountain range to Portugal and back up north along the West coast of Spain, but that's another story 

So the next day after replacing the most stupid use of technology I've ever come across, the ridiculous solenoid petcock, with a standard tap, we set off to the South coast got a ferry over to France and headed for the coast of south France. Well just a few miles south of Paris, the heavens opened and dumped the heaviest load of water I'd ever ridden in, with the exception of the West of Ireland with almost horizontal rain and floods on the country lanes, and one time in Laos, but that was a treat in the heat to be riding in a rainy season monsoon, despite several engine cut outs and waiting 5mins before the heat from the engine had dried it out enough wherever it was shorting.

The rain in France just didn't stop that day, and we camped on a sevices picnic bench area having travelled about half the length of France. Apparently it was the remnants of a huge storm that had been brewing over the Atlantic, but the next day it had cleared and off we went. When we arrived in Marseille it was just getting dark, Edele wasn't feeling too well and wanted a hotel, rather than a tent, so we found a nice but fairly cheap place right near the coast with a locked backyard for the bike, and booked a room.

The next day, we set off and just when we'd gone 1/2 a mile on the sea front road of Marseille, the clutch went totally, there was just nothing there but a floppy lever. No problem, although I'd not long since changed the clutch cable, I'd brought a spare. As I managed to pull into a little lay bye, I noticed there was still something on the end of the clutch cable when it was pulled right in to the bar, it was a wobbly lumpy feel to it. Having been into fishing for big fish, it felt that there was a fighting fish on the other end of the cable.

I got under the bike, a few feet from a very busy road, and noticed the adjuster nut was loose on the clutch arm. I knew that didn't account for what felt like a struggling fish through the hand lever though. I tried to tighten the nut but it was slipping on it's thread. I tried some desperate attempt at a temporary fix involving a jubilee clip and a couple of zip ties, but that was as fruitless as it sounds like it was going to be.

I found that with the nut done up, I could get one good go with the fighting fit clutch, before it completely slipped, and that's how we rode the entire south coast of France in one stint on the motorway toll road. I'd pull up at each of the many toll station, kill the engine and pull to a stop, we'd both jump off the bike, I got under the bike and gently nip the nut up as much as it'd take before slipping, whilst Edele pumped change into the machine to release a ticket and raise the barrier. There'd be trucks etc pulled up behind us, and must've been thinking "wtf is it with these English?" 

Pulling off with a clutch that's lunging and fighting back, and two up, loaded with camping gear and the kitchen sink, was an unnerving task, and once away, I changed gears without the clutch, which was just about as smooth as using the clutch.

We eventually crossed a bridge, and the sign read 'Italy', and immediately there was a big services area, I pulled in, and called my insurance breakdown policy. I knew if I called them in France, they'd take me to the nearest bike shop, and that'd be it, but I though if I made to Italy they'd manage to get me to a guzzi shop. I messaged my g/friend to keep her posted, when she got back to me and said "Did you know Moto Guzzi's are made just across the Lake from the wedding I'm at?" . . . . . "What seriously?"

I couldn't believe it, I know now that Guzzi road trips to Mandello are a regular occurence, but at the time, I had no idea. All I knew was, they were designed and built in Italy. By now the whole wedding party, none of which knew me or Edele, were all rooting for us, and I believe, willing the Guzzi back home 

 The Italian recovery guy was great, after getting to two Guzzi shops, neither of which could, or wanted, to attempt it, he said don't worry, I'll get you to a place that can help. Third time lucky, we finally got to a Guzzi/Triumph showroom, a big place, but I can't even remember where that was, but they had a look in the workshop, where they at least managed to fit a new clutch arm. So although the clutch was obviously still wrestling me, I could wrestle back a bit without the clutch arm giving up, but I only used it when setting off from a standstill.

So off we went again heading for Lake Como. What a long gnarly ride that was, with no clutch to speak of on windy, mountainous, at times tiny, roads. I 'd been aware, since Marseille, that the clutch was in a serious state and hardly hanging by a thread, and the trip could end at any point, but with a lot of stress and effort, and even more good luck, we arrived on the beautiful shores of Lake Como, riding through beautiful lakeside villages, a quick ferry trip across the water and to the now celebrating (the wedding, and our arrival ) party, before it started to get dark.

The next day, I got to the those famous red Guzzi doors at Mandello, and walked in reflecting on the wild coincidence that unbeknown to me, I was heading to the home of Guzzi's, and despite some serious obstacles, and one poorly bike, here I was. Almost like a religious experience of biblical proportions, I'd managed to nurse my Guzzi back to its maker, and who more fitting could someone be, than Moto Guzzi themselves.

However, just like someone who's just had his strawberries pissed on, my elation soon evaporated. . . . . . "I'm sorry, we can't possibly fit it in. You see, it's August at the end of this week, and all of Italy is on their national holidays, and everyone wants their bike servicing or fixed, before the holidays, and we're flat out busy."

At this point, I felt like bursting into tears, getting on my knees, grabbing a firm hold of one of his ankles and screaming hysterically "OH PLEASE, YOU JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND", but instead, I managed get enough of a grip to say politely. "Oh, do you know of any other possibility? It's just that my clutch is next to useless, and I need to somehow get back to England."

He paused for an uncomfortable length of time, and then said "Just wait a few minutes, I might have an idea, I'll have to make a phone call". Ten minutes later, my hopes were failing, although I knew I still had the hysterical screaming to fall back on, when the guy came out of the back and said "Ok, follow my lad on his scooter, he'll take you up into the hills to a friend that may be able to help you."

My hopes raised again, and now well up in the hills above Mandello, I arrive at this lovely quaint, very picturesque farm, and as I ride up to the buildings there were some early classic Guzzi's and a lovely early BMW. I look around, but nobody was around, then I say this guy walking my way across a field where they were bailing some hay. His name, if I recall correctly, was Mene or it sounded like Mennay. I explained the problem, he said yes, that he'd fit a new clutch. What a result!! I asked when it'd be ready, he said first thing in the morning. It would cost between 400 and 500 euros, I can't recall exactly, I said great, he gave me a lift back to the ferry on the back of a lovely T3, and arranged to pick me up early the next day.

What a great service. My bike was all sorted out, and he showed me the state of the carnage that he'd pulled, various assorted disintegrated bits and a very bent push rod, and he said he just doesn't understand how I'd managed to get it across France and Italy in that state..

They were collecting the hay bales from the field on a Guzzi 500 single motorcycle tractor with the hydraulic trailer rear, looking out over the mountains around Lake Como, it was stunning, blue skies, mountain villages and weathered peaks. I was telling him I once worked on a farm as walked out into the field to have a look around, and met his dad and I got to have a go on the Guzzi tractor.

Wow, excuse me, that's a very long winded way of saying 'yes, checking the clutch seals would be a great idea' 

The clutch feels good, and I'm usually the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type, but I agree, it's probably wise to take the opportunity whilst I have the arse end off the bike. I've never replaced or serviced a clutch before either, but I assume it's all doable, at least with some much appreciated very helpful advice from the Wild Guzzi Guzzisti 

Oh, and btw, that wasn't the end of the saga, after a great trip through Nth Italy and Switzerland, when we coming out of a services near Chaumont in France, I got a rear puncture. Got picked up by recovery truck, but France were on national holidays too, and they couldn't find anywhere to even fit a new tyre. The truck took me an my g/friend to a hotel, when my recovery service said the value of my bike didn't warrant the cost of recovery. ... As Tom Waits said "The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away" 

My g/friend had to get back for work, and she negotiated for me, as I really struggle with the insurance patter, which always seems to be centred around the avoidance of assisting you when in need, and she manage to get 2 flights back home where I could try and find somewhere that'd fit a new tyre, breakdown would take it there, and they'd fly me back to collect my bike .... All that for a puncture

Anyway, just wait til you hear what happened on the Spain Portugal trip!! . . Haha, not really, that trip went well from start to finish 

I'll read up some threads on servicing the clutch then 

"Then you are good for a minor lifetime." Haha, I'm pretty sure that's all I need 

The photo ... You can see a few brain cells had been stirring, but laughable all the same 





Cheers, Martin

[izzug otom]

Don't be tempted to leave the carrier bearing in situ, change both bits while you're in there.

I have an '00 Jackal. This was the inner race of the carrier bearing. The bike was running at or near the ton with the race like this. U-joint, while a bit sloppy, was still functioning.

As said above, that is UGLY.

Thanks, I'm looking into how, where to purchase, and no fear, I'll definitely be replacing the carrier bearing too. 

[izzug otom]

Try here. Might take less time and maybe cheaper shipping to you:

https://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi:::1.html?language=en

Unfortunately not, it's a 2-8 week ordering time. They have two alternatives listed, but they're discontinued.

Thanks though Tom

[izzug otom]

Good Luck, izzug otom! 

It's probably best to replace to replace both the U-joint AND carrier bearings -  but it
sounds as if your budget and need for transport will determine how much you do
right now.

Oh  - and Kidsmoke - that's ULGY! LOL!

                                                          -Stretch

I'll definitely being replacing both mate, thanks 

[izzug otom]

Has anyone here refurbished their u/j's with a replacement cross.

This company has some that are listed for Moto Guzzi, but don't list the models, and have 2 or 3 different sizes for Guzzis.
http://www.propshaftrepairs.com/moto-guzzi-u-j-sealed-for-life-universal-joint-hardy-spicer-joint

I've tried to find the cross specs for the '95 Cali 1100, but had no joy. I found the spec for the V7 sport, which is 20mm x 44mm, but it should be easy enough to measure mine with a calliper gauge. If anyone can point me in the right direction for the spec for the u/j cross, please do.

The crosses are available from the companies with a rep for high quality, assuming that is, that anyone has them in stock. It'd be more economical, as they run at £30-40 complete with circlips.

Looking on youtube, it doesn't look particularly complicated, and providing the holes in the U/j yokes are good, and the circlips fit on, I cant see how you could really fit it incorrectly, and to me, it's looking like a favourable option if I can source one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atxj3izLg3A

Of course, I'm thinking this through not from experience, and someone might be able to tell me I'm being daft here and why 

[chuck peterson]

I’ve had one of those…amazing i made it home

On reassembly, it’s a press/interference fit between uj and the carrier bearing. Measure carefully. My machinist took a little metal off to make it so.

He also used a plumbing pipe to keep the uj from flopping around while press fitting it into the swing arm.

Then again plenty of people just stuff it in there. The idea is the uj spins the bearing, not spin inside the bearing

Good luck! Hope it goes quickly to get you back on the road

Guzziology always has good info

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Has anyone here refurbished their u/j's with a replacement cross.

This company has some that are listed for Moto Guzzi, but don't list the models, and have 2 or 3 different sizes for Guzzis.
http://www.propshaftrepairs.com/moto-guzzi-u-j-sealed-for-life-universal-joint-hardy-spicer-joint

I've tried to find the cross specs for the '95 Cali 1100, but had no joy. I found the spec for the V7 sport, which is 20mm x 44mm, but it should be easy enough to measure mine with a calliper gauge. If anyone can point me in the right direction for the spec for the u/j cross, please do.

The crosses are available from the companies with a rep for high quality, assuming that is, that anyone has them in stock. It'd be more economical, as they run at £30-40 complete with circlips.

Looking on youtube, it doesn't look particularly complicated, and providing the holes in the U/j yokes are good, and the circlips fit on, I cant see how you could really fit it incorrectly, and to me, it's looking like a favourable option if I can source one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atxj3izLg3A

Of course, I'm thinking this through not from experience, and someone might be able to tell me I'm being daft here and why 

I've done a few Loopframe, early (drum-brake rear) Tonti and small-block u-joints. Those use the 20 x 44 crosses, later (disk rear brake) Guzzis use 22 x 50.

[izzug otom]

Good luck! Hope it goes quickly to get you back on the road

Guzziology always has good info

Thanks Chuck

I've done a few Loopframe, early (drum-brake rear) Tonti and small-block u-joints. Those use the 20 x 44 crosses, later (disk rear brake) Guzzis use 22 x 50.

Ah cool, thanks Charlie, that's great to know. So the '95 cali, rear disc I need the 22 x 50. I was reading about different grades of u/j crosses, is there any specific grade/quality rating I should be looking for?

 I really appreciate your obvious vast wealth of information, and others here at Wild Guzzi, but more than that, your generosity and good will in sharing it when those less experienced are in need a helping hand.

Despite my lack of experience and knowledge, with the sound advice, information and support shown on threads such as this, I feel confident enough, and better about doing my own maintenance, than taking it to a place I don't know, and paying mechanic fees. Not that a good bike mechanic isn't worth his salt, however I'm not by any means flush, and usually just managing to get by, as opposed to enough to accumulate the damn stuff 

It's not just the cash though, there's something really quite primal about taking the responsibility to tend to your own steed/s, but it'd be unnerving and a struggle to take on some of these jobs without you guys. My admiration knows no bounds. 

The world could generally do with a heavy sprinkling of such attitude and approach to life "If my knowledge and wisdom can be of net benefit and help further others in my community, locally or worldwide, I'd like to do what I can to do so". . . . Imagine what the world would be if the politicians, corporations, and, due to such diabolical role models, society at large, if they only had that same approach in their roles, instead of always trying to find another angle to shaft us, pressure us, always squeezing just a little tad more out of us, mostly transferred up to the coffers of the wealthy elite, in the trickle up economics, and not back into societies.

The thing that makes it so stupid, is that I'm certain that the inclination to help others is more in tune with our natural state, than the way of the world we have . . . And I'm not even a hippy . . . Well, not much of one 

Anyways, I'm rambling, but thanks guys 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Ah cool, thanks Charlie, that's great to know. So the '95 cali, rear disc I need the 22 x 50. I was reading about different grades of u/j crosses, is there any specific grade/quality rating I should be looking for?

My supplier only offers one choice, so I have to take what I can get. 

[Scout63]

Great tales of travel izzug.  Best of luck with the repairs. I always end up taking apart and assembling three times.

[izzug otom]

My supplier only offers one choice, so I have to take what I can get. 

Ah, that'll be the one then 

The last thing I was expecting to get stuck with, in my bid to remove the swing arm, was the rear shocks bushes to frame and swing arm are totally seized and refusing to budge. All the bolts had cracked free ok, but I hadn't given a second thought that the bushes might have fused in an attempt to become one with the mounting posts.

Everything else is ready to go, it was all going to be so straight forward, but once again I'm reminded that God laughs at those who make plans     

Feeling frustrated, so I put the audible version of 'Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' on my phone whilst I was pootling, but with the dad being grumpy and his lad whining away, it didn't help 

 I've left them soaked in penetrating oil, but not sure it can get to work between tight gunked up, corroded, bushes and the posts.

I was wondering if one of these 2 leg pullers would be the answer for stuck shocks? And if so, can anyone tell me if there's an advantage in one of these two designs over the other?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071DF2ZB4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pf_rd_p=67430c1d-696a-45e1-be6b-972213775cc6&pf_rd_r=7EHT3ZDX1T560XYSADCG&pd_rd_wg=B7O74&pd_rd_w=HbJYT&content-id=amzn1.sym.67430c1d-696a-45e1-be6b-972213775cc6&pd_rd_r=9493a8f3-a03c-447f-822e-a70721fb88aa&s=diy&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy&th=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK46080-Twin-Puller-100mm/dp/B0016Y7R00/ref=d_pd_vtp_sccl_4_2/259-2301078-8870669?pd_rd_w=0wKZj&content-id=amzn1.sym.efbe2987-d931-49ca-8bec-ada238e46a4c&pf_rd_p=efbe2987-d931-49ca-8bec-ada238e46a4c&pf_rd_r=SV0K4W2784YCWN11GWWY&pd_rd_wg=Q9NAF&pd_rd_r=6cb76457-326a-4872-a39f-729cc7a9f565&pd_rd_i=B0016Y7R00&th=1

[Tom H]

If I understand you right. You can not get the shocks off the frame mounting studs as well as the swing arm studs. Correct?

Are the shocks still in place, or did the bushing slide out of the rubber of the shock and is stuck to the frame and swing arm stud?

I came across this issue. I was able to get the shock off the bushing, so now I just needed to get the bushing off the stud. Tried what I could to not destroy the bushing. Heat gun, lube, vice grips. Finally gave up and with a dremel ground the side off the bushing. Then it came off.

Measure the bushing, you can get them on Amazon for not too much money. They are shock bushings that you would use to space a stud to the metal bushing inside the rubber of the shock eye.

If you do this route, I would add a large diameter washer to the shock bolt to be "sure" the shock will not work itself off.

Good luck!
Tom.

[izzug otom]

Great tales of travel izzug.  Best of luck with the repairs. I always end up taking apart and assembling three times.

Nice one mate, thanks 

I'm hope to avoid the taking apart and assembling three times if at all possible, as my lock up has no roof, being as it's my back yard 

I'm not sure it'd be such a good idea for me attempt crabbing the frame for the first time, out in the open, although I am still contemplating doing so. It'd be good to get in and check the clutch, but there's no sign of there being an oil leak from the seals, in that there was no wetness inside the u/j rubber boot.

 I have got an oily wet back end to the engine, but from much higher up. I think this was down to an oil breather pipe that comes from the nipple on the air box, having folded on itself forming a kink which blocked it. Although it always looks black and wet back there, it doesn't seem to use oil, and it never drips a drop in the yard. I think I read that it could also be a leaky sensor, but can't remember where I read that, or whether I've confused that with something else.

  I think I'd be feeling a bit happier, more secure, about it if I could tie it off to a roof beam. . . . Not sure I'll let that put me off. I do have plenty of good solid flat blocks to make a good support under the engine, and despite living in the city, the only entrance to the backyard is well secured with a locked iron gate, the top of which is lathered with grease.

I was contemplating perhaps bringing it in the house, I have a good sized back room on the ground floor, and a wide front door, for a month or so in the depths of winter, to carry out a few things I've had in mind, including getting rid of some rusting on the frame, which may be a better time to crab it and sort the clutch. . . . So yes, still thinking it through at the mo 

[izzug otom]

If I understand you right. You can not get the shocks off the frame mounting studs as well as the swing arm studs. Correct?

Thanks Tom. Yes that's correct, the shocks are jammed in place preventing me from proceeding with the swing arm removal, and assessing the damage to the u/j, so as to know exactly what I need to place an order. I was hoping to order all I need first thing tomorrow morning, but such is life 

 I just can't budge them at all. Although it's not easy to get anything behind them to try and lever them off, and a whack from a rubber mallet has no effect, and don't want to go to hard doing that for fear of damaging them. I think I'll order a 2 leg puller this eve, so it should arrive tmro, and this will hopefully resolve the issue and save me smashing my hands, or bike up. 

Yes thanks, I'll order some new bushes, I'm sure I'll probably need them 

[Tom H]

If the puller works, you may get lucky and the bushing will come off as well with the shock. Most likely, it will pull the shock and the rubber bits in the shock eye off leaving the bushing on the studs.

If so, what I wrote is about the easiest way to get the bushing off and do the repair. Well, unless someone has a better way.

If it wrecks the rubber bits, it's possible to get some universal rubber bits that would work. Or, you may have to look for a good used set of shocks, or maybe go new?

Tom

[Stretch]

Bugger!

3 jobs to do to get to the ONE you NEED to do.......

'Twas ever thus. You certainly have MY sympathy!

Let's hope that the penetrating oil works on the shock bushings.
A spot of anti-seize on the the shock mounts and a wee bit of loctite
on the threads should do ya on reassembly.

I lost the clutch cable on my old XS750 one evening in DC while I was in the service.
Shifting, as you did, was fine clutchless. Eventually, I had to stop at
a traffic light. What to do? I recalled reading that Phil Hill once got his Ferrari
across the line at Lemans(?) by using the starter motor only. Hmmm......
if it's good enough for Phil Hill, it's certainly worth a try. I killed the engine
at the lights, and then when I got the green, I punched the starter button -
and chug, chug, chug - VROOOOM! Worked like a charm!      All the way
home like that......

                                                           -Stretch

                                                -Stretch

[Scout63]

Not pretty, but I’ve used a propane torch to melt the rubber part of the bushing, and then I think a dremel cutoff wheel. I’ve repressed the memory.

[izzug otom]

Well the 2 arm puller arrived, I couldn't even wait for breakfast before I gave them a go.

The threaded section of the pullers has a rounded ball end, so I threaded a hex bolt into the mounting post, which was smaller than the diameter of the bush, to preserve the threads, the hex head taking the ball nicely and helps keeping it central under pressure.

I'm pleased to say, they worked a treat, well at least on both bottom mounts. The top two didn't want to budge, but I did have the claws behind the rear copper washers which folded over and caused a rounded edge that the jaws just slipped off too easily.

I think if I ping them back with a hammer and punch I'll be able to get them to shift, as the shocks themselves have a good flat surface for the claws to get a good grip on. However, if worse comes to worse, they can just stay there as is until reassembly, although ideally, I'd like to get them off, cleaned and copper greased up.

Tom, thanks mate, fortunately for me, the bushes stayed intact and reusable. I had noticed your comment re the dremel though. I don't have one, but I'd done my research on which one to buy incase that was the next step 

Scout, thanks. Not pretty wah-ha-ha  . . . I'm very pleased not to have to resort to such a task 

Stretch, thanks. That's an equally hilarious and brilliant answer to being stuck without a clutch, and one I'll remember for any such future occasion. Not sure I'd like the idea fully loaded for a couple of weeks camping, and two up, but it can't have been any worse than the situation I was in with a snatching clutch, the setting off was not at all smooth 

Anyways, all I've got to do is remove the swing arm pivot pins, which I've checked, and they move with relative ease, and then I can inspect the damage of the u/j. Fingers crossed, the shaft splines will be ok.

First though, some breakfast 

[izzug otom]

I've done a few Loopframe, early (drum-brake rear) Tonti and small-block u-joints. Those use the 20 x 44 crosses, later (disk rear brake) Guzzis use 22 x 50.

Hi Charlie, I'm a bit confused re cross sizes.

The companies here specify 2 sizes for moto guzzi that are very close to 22mm x 50mm but not exact. One is a sealed for life 22mm x 49mm, and one at 22mm x 50.2mm, which only seems to come with a grease nipple.

I don't think it's feasible to get a grease gun into the cali 1100 without removing the swing arm, and I imagine it'd need greasing more regularly than I'd like to that. Also, from what I've found on Gregory Bender's 'This Old Tractor' site, the 50.2 is actually from a Kawasaki cross reference, but apparently the circlips need to be made a bit thinner for them to fit in the grooves.
Here https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti_u-joint_bearing_cross_size.html

The sealed 22mm x 49 mm is listed for Guzzis, I asked a helpful lady at the propshaft company if she's actually sold any to people for Guzzis and she said they've sold 31 of them so far and had no issues from customers. I think, as far as I can gather, that they're spicer hardy crosses.

It looks like the only option for a sealed for life, is the 22 x 49, but .5mm on each of the 4 ends seems quite a lot, either if it's a looser or tighter fit for the circlip.

It seems a bit odd that they'd list it for guzzis if they didn't fit, maybe they're grooved slightly different to accommodate the difference. ... edit: no of course that doesn't make sense it's not the cross that's grooved for the circlip, but fits into the yoke to hold the cross in place.

I have seen the same size for sale in Germany for Guzzi, apparently to fit the Lemans.

I can't find anything online about a 22 x 49 in relation to Guzzis apart from the advertised items. You can see all 4 crosses listed for Guzzis, there are two 22 x 44 one sealed, one nippled, and then the 22 x 49 sealed and the 22 x 50.2 nippled.
Here > u joints tab > Moto Guzzi  http://www.propshaftrepairs.com/moto-guzzi-universal-joints

I suppose it's best to measure mine, but I assume it'll be 22 x 50. I just wouldn't have thought you can afford for any tolerance, but then again, I wouldn't have thought they could sell precision engineering gear that isn't precision. I'm a bit surprised that I can't find anything online about it, but I've done a lot of searching the past 3 days and nada

As for measuring mine, I've got stuck again  The bolt holding the rear foot peg on the right hand side sticks through a lot more than the one on the left, and blocking the swing arm from being pulled and jiggled out. Of course getting the worst of the road crud down there, it's well seized up, so I'm giving it a soak in penetrating oil. I think the bolts on both sides probably need to come off, so once I've got them cracked off, I'll finally get it off the bike.

 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

When installing the 20 x 44 and 22 x 50 crosses that I buy from my source, I've had to reuse the original circlips - the supplied circlips are always too thick. So, 22 x 49 may be a perfect fit, I don't know for sure since I've never tried it.