Breva V11 IE 2007 Speedo repair

[PRM]

Hi guys,

I'm new to WG so hopefully I'm posting this in the right area. Feel free to remove it or educate me on this as you see fit!

Some context: I am a recently new owner of a 2007 Breva V11. For which I purchased for the motorcycle trip along East coast of the US I'm currently on (I'm a Brit).

Post trip maintenance:
Valve clearances
Oil/filter change
Bled brakes
Checked carc seals/oil
Changed air filter
Starter motor relay splice
Refitted the vapor recapture system (this might be part of the idle problem

Issue No1:

After the maintenance and the voyage was underway the bike started idling high. It's also getting a lower MPG than I was expecting, around 30/USG. The bike runs well just idles high, has decent power and throttle response. Starts fairly quick. So I'm assuming some kind of mixture issue.

Issue No2:

Upon some bad weather, the Speedo leaked/condensed water on the glass. This triggered the hazard lights to stick on. I'm guessing a short within the Speedo. Currently drying it and going to attempt to get inside without breaking it and then use a waterproof coating on the PCB.

I'm looking for advise on how difficult it is to get into it the bugger without busting it, as well as advise on how terminal the indicator issue is. As this is a roadside fix my options are limited (mainly by time, but also by budget). Any help or advise is welcomed.

Glad to be here on WG.

All the best,

PRM

[guzzisteve]

Bumping this up top cause NO one answered AND he's on a trip having issues.

Issue 1---  The motor runs better w/o the EVAP system, less open air to TB's It has caused issues on engines. I would also clean out the stepper motor in case it is hanging up, it controls idle rpm of sorts.

Issue 2---- Dash operates turn signals, I don't take them apart.

[Huzo]

You mention “post trip maintenance”.
Was that to read “pre trip,maintenance” ?
In any case regarding the high idle, ensure it is not something reality lame like a sticking throttle cable, or not enough slack. Is the cable dry ?
Open the throttle and witness it slam shut positively.
Throttle drum returning ok ?
I’m assuming you know not to “adjust” the idle with the sacred screw ?

Having said all of that, it’s sounding like a stepper. You can if you wish, lengthen the air supply hose to the stepper and when the high idle occurs, clamp off the hose and see if the idle drops back down. The stepper adjusts the idle by introducing air into the intakes, thus leaning the ratio and raising the idle.
How high is the idle, around 1500-1700 ?
Guzzidiag has the ability to cycle the stepper IIRC,

 but tearing it out and soaking it in carb cleaner might be a good idea. While you have it off, hook up the electrics to it and turn the key “on”. (Don’t start the bike though).
You should hear and feel the stepper cycle through the range, although you still won’t know if it’s parking properly.
Make sure the electrical connection is sound. I have replaced the one on my ‘07 Norge which is the same as your Breva. Strange as it sounds, the plastic ones give better service than the metal ones.
Have you done a TB balance, TPS reset ?

[PRM]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes it was meant to mean pre-trip maintenance.

Thanks, I will double check that it's nothing lame like a stuck throttle cable. Does appear to change a fair bit with engine temp so I don't think it's that.

I have been advised the stepper could be the source. When I'm next in a place I can get to the throttle bodies I'll take a look.

Yes, the idle is around 1700 when the engines warm and 1500 when it's cold.

I haven't got guzzidiag unfortunately and I haven't done a TB balance or TPS reset. How do you do them?

[guzzisteve]

Are you still in DC or Carolinas?

For TB sync you need a sync tool & for TPS reset you need software & cables.

[Huzo]

Press the “search” button near the top right hand corner of the WG homepage and search
“New and improved Guzzidiag tutorial…”
If you are like me and virtually clueless on computers, you can expect to take some time to understand what’s up, but feel free to ask a million questions…(there are NO silly ones).
Fundamentally, once you have a suitable laptop, you can install a relatively simple program that will let you into the diagnostics.
Read EVERY SINGLE WORD that Beetle writes, his method has been peer reviewed thousands of times and he is to absolutely relied upon.
Suffice to say, once you have a grasp of things, you can.
#1 Hook up a manometer to each intake tract.
#2 Close BOTH air bleeds
#3 Balance the TB’s @ 3,000 rpm using the CORRECT screw..(do not manipulate the one that looks like the throttle stop…!)
#4 Reset the TPS using Guzzidiag..(it’s a push of a button once you’ve become familiar)
#5 Balance the idle by opening the air bleed on the side with the highest manometer indication.
#6 Re check the high speed (3,000 rpm)
That’s about it…!
Once you decide to enter the dark world of Guzzidiag, ask questions at EVERY stage.
I did not know where to plug the cable into the laptop at the start and now I can do a TB balance  and TPS reset quite successfully, but it took me a while.

[Huzo]

I have bumped the thread for you PRM, that means It’ll be on the front page when you get onto WildGuzzi.
I am not the best person to answer your questions on this topic, but you’ll find out who to follow.

[moto]

I made a close study of the Breva and Griso dashes some time ago. They are very close cousins on the inside.

I opened up my Griso's dash and put a conformal coating on both sides of the PCB. The Breva dash looks easier, especially because it doesn't have one particularly fragile connector to be unsoldered. There are some videos online showing how to take it apart.

The moisture inside is generally condensation that occurs because the unit is not sealed from the atmosphere. The problem is worse if the bike is stored in damp conditions. There is an electronic component controlling the turn signals in the lower corner of the case as the bike sits on the side stand. You will probably be able to see water damage there. Drying things out and coating with a conformal coating is the best approach for do it yourself repair. It may not work, but it is worth a try. A good phone repair shop may be able to help if you bring the PCB in.

This kind of damage usually does not prevent the motorcycle from running, but it can. Replacement speedos are very expensive, if they are still available. Sorry you are having trouble. Good luck.

P.S. This company repairs the dashes: carmousa.com.