Any Ideas On What to Do With This?

[Tom]

I did the same thing and bought a bunch from him.   

[TurcoLoco]

Yes, the relays. I got mine from pyro Dan.

Oh I see. Did you have the same problem or another similar issue that replacing the relays fixed it?
I wasn't aware Siemens relays were inferior quality.
Is there a way to check the relays to confirm?

[Tom]

There are 12v relay testers available.

[TurcoLoco]

There are 12v relay testers available.

Is there a way to check them using a multimeter (which I have)?
Also, is there a relay for ECU or could cause the "ECU disconnected" issue I am having?
Dan replied to my email stating he didn't carry the relays for the newer models. I guess he typically carries the ones up to 2011.


Thank you.

[TurcoLoco]

Hello all,

Quick update: after replacing all 5 relays on the brake side and cleaning their sockets, I removed the gas tank and noticed the two relays on the ECU side that I missed before.
I was (and kind still am) under the weather so give me some credit! Anyhow, the cube shaped relay and its socket were seriously corroded so much so that one of the eyes of the socket fell apart when I sprayed contact cleaner and used a brass brush.
Of course I cannot be 100% certain that was the cause of my issue but needless to say, I will be replacing both relays as well as the damaged socket and check!








To be continued...

[Tom H]

 

Tom

[Tom]

Is there a way to check them using a multimeter (which I have)?
Also, is there a relay for ECU or could cause the "ECU disconnected" issue I am having?
Dan replied to my email stating he didn't carry the relays for the newer models. I guess he typically carries the ones up to 2011.

Thank you.

There is but I forget the procedure on what should be closed etc.  that's why I bought a relay tester.

[Tom H]

You should be able to release a lock pin for the damaged connector and pull it from the plastic housing. Then take the connector to an electrical shop and they should have one. Or it might just be a plain old non insulated female spade connector provided it has the correct lock pin.

Tom

[TurcoLoco]

You should be able to release a lock pin for the damaged connector and pull it from the plastic housing. Then take the connector to an electrical shop and they should have one. Or it might just be a plain old non insulated female spade connector provided it has the correct lock pin.

Tom

Thanks, Tom. I have already ordered the waterproof socket set that comes with the relay so I will see how it goes.
I really wanna get the bike running again so I can ride 'cuz I started to get cranky due to lack of riding! 

[nc43bsa]

Would this work for one of them?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375213079786?itmmeta=01HPR4F8XES6RNWJW90HSKD521&hash=item575c713cea:g:nIkAAOSwYoFlsjpC&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PpA0BppgUOEM6PzIxMEuNCDH%2Blecg6lCTSWFWhx4BIJvIdSosVyoMTrHaIybe9Jo4JlcxFCvcSygSC7tZN4LSF6ey5OxELzDQlRtV0QAIcWgICHhgzfXt7Iy3UydtzczeEisH9oL9IXAE%2F5lhvbET8fBZzPuJHjGoDRmKnq5MdmEYZrLUPJ3%2F9JW5wH8zk8abgIYEynXrQjseqdyZlWyKmDL4WpBSGe%2B2rvW2oHm0iOZODzckxeQpRCbZ%2BEVw2P--xLahhV%2FYJzKH3tS%2BIZPJspr%2B4zXa5H5B5geDQJ0n2%2B%7Ctkp%3ABFBMko-9hLZj

[John A]

There’s a bunch of vids on relays on utube like this explaining relays https://youtu.be/mkjSFnHSSis?si=0XmJBAjc0XI5eJsH

[TurcoLoco]

Would this work for one of them?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375213079786?itmmeta=01HPR4F8XES6RNWJW90HSKD521&hash=item575c713cea:g:nIkAAOSwYoFlsjpC&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PpA0BppgUOEM6PzIxMEuNCDH%2Blecg6lCTSWFWhx4BIJvIdSosVyoMTrHaIybe9Jo4JlcxFCvcSygSC7tZN4LSF6ey5OxELzDQlRtV0QAIcWgICHhgzfXt7Iy3UydtzczeEisH9oL9IXAE%2F5lhvbET8fBZzPuJHjGoDRmKnq5MdmEYZrLUPJ3%2F9JW5wH8zk8abgIYEynXrQjseqdyZlWyKmDL4WpBSGe%2B2rvW2oHm0iOZODzckxeQpRCbZ%2BEVw2P--xLahhV%2FYJzKH3tS%2BIZPJspr%2B4zXa5H5B5geDQJ0n2%2B%7Ctkp%3ABFBMko-9hLZj

That might be an option but I ordered this one because it comes complete with pigtails which would make soldering much easier for me.

[TurcoLoco]

= Update =

After replacing all the relays and that one damaged socket, the ECU Disconnect error disappeared.
However, the "Service!" message keeps coming back after deleting all errors and /resetting service options so there is more to do.
I don't quite remember how noticeable the fuel pump priming noise was but I don't think I hear it any more.
When I checked the ECU errors section, I saw #25 and #00 had an X so if anyone knows what those are and what could cause this, I'd appreciate their input.
I am off to checking the wiring diagram and checking the fuse/relay for the fuel pump to make sure those are OK.

PS. I found out the ECU #25 was for ignition coil ground so besides the aux fuse box connections and all the fuses, I will be cleaning the coil connectors as well as the ground wires and connectors on botch sides.

If anyone has any other suggestions, I am all ears.

TIA

[Tom H]

If Service is just the icon on the dash, it may need to be reset by a dealer.

Just as a refresher for the fuel pump. Turn key to on and kill switch to run, then you will hear the pump. You
MAY need to pull the clutch lever especially if the bike is in gear.

Good luck!
Tom

[TurcoLoco]

If Service is just the icon on the dash, it may need to be reset by a dealer.

Just as a refresher for the fuel pump. Turn key to on and kill switch to run, then you will hear the pump. You
MAY need to pull the clutch lever especially if the bike is in gear.

Good luck!
Tom

Thank, Tom.

Out of frustration, I moreved the gas tank and the coils, sp wires and even the FIs to check and clean.
I couldn't really hear the pump but the dash does its thing where the gages moves up and down with a little clicking (maybe that was the pump?), lol...it has been a long while so I couldn't tell.

Anyhow, I did notice now the bike actually ignites when I press the ignition but doesn't fire...then it dawned on me after recalling the spark plug wire issues I read on multiple threads a long while back.
I checked both wires, no continuity! I removed the boots and there is continuity so the boots shat the bed when the issue occurred on the freeway going 75 mph.
The vibration might have have taken them out because I was very careful when I removed them almost two years ago to install iridium plugs.
I ordered replacement NGK boots which will probably take a week to receive.
I will give an update afterwards.

Cheers!
TL

[Tom H]

Hopefully the new boots get you fixed up.

Tom

[TurcoLoco]

Hopefully the new boots get you fixed up.

Tom

Thank you, sir! I am hoping so too!
Due to all the counterfeits, I am not even sure if I am getting original NGKs but seller is in the US so fingers crossed.

It wasn't easy finding the SB05Es though. Most of the few I found were overseas and when you include the shipping, they cost minimum 3 times more than what they really should.
I checked all local mc dealerships and auto parts stores and no other suitable options even as a wire set.
Curious, is there no other alternative to the stock sp wires, especially as a set, meaning wire plus the cap/boot?

[Tom H]

NGK quit make the caps. So only NOS available. Seems like Italy has some. Some of the knock off caps are fine, some may not be.
Otherwise your stuck getting a complete wire from the dealer. Maybe just the end cap??

Tom

[TurcoLoco]

I have ordered a pair of SB05Es I found but also ordered these to give them a shot (based on the dimensions, should be pretty close to stock).
Worst case scenario, I will have to wait for NGKs to come in.  Best case scenario, I will have a spare set! 

To be continued...

[TurcoLoco]

Amazon aftermarket sp caps were half inch too short so despite having 120 degree elbows, it didn't quite connect to the sparkplugs.
Item measurements showed 4" where the longest part was 3-3/8". The stock is almost 4" (3-7/8").
The measurements were off by half inch otherwise it would have been a good spare set to keep.

[TurcoLoco]

I previously thought ECU Errors #27 and #31 were for ignition coil grounds but they were actually for Injection grounds.
I am going to re-check the socket I replaced as well as the related ECU socket pins using a multimeter.

If anyone else have any suggestions or tips, I am all ears! 

TIA

[TurcoLoco]

Would this work for one of them?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375213079786?itmmeta=01HPR4F8XES6RNWJW90HSKD521&hash=item575c713cea:g:nIkAAOSwYoFlsjpC&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PpA0BppgUOEM6PzIxMEuNCDH%2Blecg6lCTSWFWhx4BIJvIdSosVyoMTrHaIybe9Jo4JlcxFCvcSygSC7tZN4LSF6ey5OxELzDQlRtV0QAIcWgICHhgzfXt7Iy3UydtzczeEisH9oL9IXAE%2F5lhvbET8fBZzPuJHjGoDRmKnq5MdmEYZrLUPJ3%2F9JW5wH8zk8abgIYEynXrQjseqdyZlWyKmDL4WpBSGe%2B2rvW2oHm0iOZODzckxeQpRCbZ%2BEVw2P--xLahhV%2FYJzKH3tS%2BIZPJspr%2B4zXa5H5B5geDQJ0n2%2B%7Ctkp%3ABFBMko-9hLZj

Thanks for this. I initially didn't want to mess with just replacing those little brass connectors inside the socket and figured it would be much easier just to replace the socket itself.
I did that for one of the more standard 4-pin relays that was clearly damaged due to corrosion but while taking a closer look, I noticed another injector relay (with socket and pins coupled in 2 rows) with heavily corroded cable and connector.
It looked fine until I gently grab the cable and it came right off, trying to gently remove the brass connector and it fell apart into tiny pieces much like the one in the socket I replaced over a week ago.
I checked and it seems that is the only other one that is damaged and needs replacing so a single brass connector attached, it'd be a cheaper and much quicker fix.
I am confident that would get the bike running or at least it is something that definitely needs fixing either way.

More to come...