V7 III Carbon Questions, Mods & Musings

[DoubleGuzzi]

Argh! The new U.S. Pro/Bergen hex key isn't enough to grip the made-from-chocolate long bolt. It's gonna be a right PITA to remove that cross member, to fit a centre stand. I'll need to do a "rain check" on this task. At the moment, I'm thinking that I need to source a replacement bolt and nearly drill out the thread at the right-hand side. Perhaps then, it'll free off.
The new brake pads arrived, so that *should* be straightforward. 
Also, a very basic alarm arrived today, so let's see where I can squeeze that in. It's really only an attempt to deter kids from playing on the bike with/without the consent/encouragement of the parents!

[egschade]

^ I have same issue: bony butt syndrome! Typically, 100 miles and my bones don't recover. Been down many roads (bad pun) with a Corbin (Sprint ST) for longer tours and I custom made two seats for the Bonnie, with gel inserts. I also have the problem of not thickening the saddle/raising the seat height.

That's a rather nice looking seat cover that you have and would suit my Shine well. I'm pondering a used seat (on a watch list) at a sensible price, with a thought to carving up the foam etc. I need to consider the patterns on them, should I decide to lower them an inch, for example.

Any V7 III seat will work. Again, this one is from a Millano but any full size bench is easy to modify. I cut the step in the OEM seat about 3" further back, cut a level base for the new foam, than added about 1.5" to the front, tapering down to 1" towards the rear to level out the seat. The OEM seat cover had enough material and stretch to accommodate the extra foam without modification.  Biggest challenge was getting the staples to fully penetrate the seat base. I used 6mm stainless staples in my electric staple gun and had to redo about half the staples due to bending.

[Kev m]

Argh! The new U.S. Pro/Bergen hex key isn't enough to grip the made-from-chocolate long bolt. It's gonna be a right PITA to remove that cross member, to fit a centre stand. I'll need to do a "rain check" on this task. At the moment, I'm thinking that I need to source a replacement bolt and nearly drill out the thread at the right-hand side. Perhaps then, it'll free off.

Huh?!?

I used a decades old set of pretty short 3/8" drive Craftsman bits and don't recall any trouble.

How long does it have to be?

And you're saying the head is rounding?!?

On the seat thing I wrote a reply this morning but couldn't figure out how to insert a photo with my phone and gave up. The gist of it is that I have had 7 different seats for my smallblocks, and still have 5 of them. My favorites are the Corbins.

[jhem68]

DoubleGuzzi it might be helpful to heat the threaded righthand side of the through bolt, as I believe mine had a thread locker used on it from the factory. It was very resistant to removal. As a last resort if the hex tool has a loose fit on the bolt then sometimes coating the end of the tool with valve grinding compound will help to tighten the tools grip on the bolt.

Mine is a 2018 V7 III Milano. Our personal specifications are very similar and your general fit and feel observations closely mirror mine.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Yes, the Allen bolt is a bit rounded off from when I attempted to loosen it with an existing hex bit and torque bar.
Today, I tried heating the right-hand side with a cheapo 300W hot air gun and a wee spray of Plusgas but I'm loathe to apply too much force to what remains of the Allen bolt head. I don't want to bubble up the paint on the frame by applying too much heat but the heat gun was struggling to raise the temp. to anything near hot, at current ambient temperature. Perhaps a direct contact with a 80W soldering bolt will be better. I need to source another bolt before trying again, so that'll be sometime in the future. I have thought about skimming an old 10mm hex bit down to just over 8mm - could be tricky. Or maybe a sacrificial torx bit could be used. I don't have any grinding paste lying around but even a little Solvol Autosol might act as a packer. ;)

Regarding the seat.. So it sounds like I should stick to looking for V7III variants and not any earlier/alternative models; could be pricey even 2nd-hand.
My stapling technique has improved from my early days and I had no issue recovering a Bonnie seat with a custom leather cover, after foam 'tweaks'. The electric staple gun force adjustment makes quite a difference to how well and cleanly the staples pierce the seat base, IME.
Corbins weigh a ton!

At least the front brake pads slipped in easily - the existing Brembo ones can't be that worn, as the pistons needed hardly any push-back to fit the new ones. Either that the EBC are thinner to begin with.  I got too cold in the garage, to fit the rear ones, this evening.
Got a space for the basic alarm and it's now physically fitted, ready for a hook up & test. I needed to wrap some insulating tape around the cable entry point, to at least have some semblance of waterproofing. Do you need a clue as to where these alarms are designed/made? At £10, it's hardly a big investment though.

Speaking of cheapo-sourced items, I've got another set of heated grips to fit. They have been excellent on the Breva and with an integrated sliding switch, very discreet. From past experience, £14 well spent, though they do need a fuse added (I already have suitable holders) and strictly speaking should be wired via a small relay - gonna need some more spade connectors, IIRC.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Mine is a 2018 V7 III Milano.

That is a really nice machine and were in not for my carbon fibre fetish, would likely had taken my limited pennies. Double clocks, glossy paint and aluminium mudguards/sidepanels; what's not to like? 

[DoubleGuzzi]

How long does it have to be?

Checked a parts fiche this morning:
M10 pin 2B002817 - £22 delivered, ouch!

[Kev m]

Checked a parts fiche this morning:
M10 pin 2B002817 - £22 delivered, ouch!

I was talking about the driver bit.

[DoubleGuzzi]

I was talking about the driver bit.

Ahh, I manage to use a short one. I didn't fancy the prospect of the (existing) long one that I have - twist and keeping square-on to the bolt head.

[Kev m]

Meant to post this the other day but can't seem to figure out how from the phone. Easy from the laptop though so.

Since you have a Carbon Fiber fetish...here's my Corbin with the Carbon Fiber look leather:






Edit - I think I got it. The tag needs both height and width dimensions to work.

[DoubleGuzzi]

OMG! Carrrrbon!
I daren't think the cost: my Sprint ST Corbin (Gunfighter & Lady) was £250 back in 2000, IIRC.
$649 + shipping Yikes!!

(You nasty man, you.  )

BTW:

Code: [Select]

[img width="600" ..

[Kev m]

OMG! Carrrrbon!
I daren't think the cost: my Sprint ST Corbin (Gunfighter & Lady) was £250 back in 2000, IIRC.

(You nasty man, you.  )

BTW:

Code: [Select]

[img width="600" ..

Guilty on both counts.

Happy to fix the images, but I've never figured out the particulars on sizing with this board. Can you talk me through it - or just correct this line:

[img width="600"]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNYuboO0Z7J_8IpK8HHLusgfoueVRLXDWzUEzLsYVOWFhrYQwPG62ZDh5xZ2KLzCzcjBGy2PtUhx3ZKGInDQCl6-3SjVP8roglVPeo1w-5WxZmoyt_d-MlsCYXIHbCIhzgxktYaYzJg638EjrGwgFiQ7A=w1563-h879-s-no-gm?authuser=0[/img]

[DoubleGuzzi]

^ Looks OK on the face of it but I had to find the jpeg (jpg) link in imgur (not easy) to get it to work. Might be the same for googleusercontent.

[Kev m]

^ Looks OK on the face of it but I had to find the jpeg (jpg) link in imgur (not easy) to get it to work. Might be the same for googleusercontent.

That might be the rub - I'm lazy and keep all my photos in one place.

Oh and yeah on the price of the Corbin, though with "options" (Leather) it I seem to remember it coming to $750.

But it's only $$$

[DoubleGuzzi]

A little bit of bling on the crashbars, for the redheads?

[Kev m]

A little bit of bling on the crashbars, for the redheads?

Wait, just to be clear, you're saying your crashbar now has a crashbar? 

[DoubleGuzzi]

Wait, just to be clear, you're saying your crashbar now has a crashbar? 

You're crazy! 
These are bumpers for crashbars - spotted when I was perusing plain ones. Not applicable to your steed, with the sticky-out crash bungs. 


You fixed yer pics!  (Albeit the aspect ratio is wrong on the main image.)

[Kev m]

You're crazy! 
These are bumpers for crashbars - spotted when I was perusing plain ones. Not applicable to your steed, with the sticky-out crash bungs. 


You fixed yer pics!  (Albeit the aspect ratio is wrong on the main image.)

I am crazy.

Yeah too lazy to boot up the laptop and get the actual ratio, for now. EDIT - waiting for Jeep motor to cool off so booted up and fixed.

[DoubleGuzzi]

..and fixed.

Ahh, OCD abated.

[DoubleGuzzi]

I purchased a M10x260mm Allen bolt - it's a High Tensile one, so not ideal but considerably cheaper than BZP and A2 ones that I could source. This gave me a fallback should things 'go South'..
I finally got the crossmember bolt removed; likely due to the combination of Plusgas penetrating fluid, heating the thread end with a small butane torch and whacking a T55 bit onto the hex head (unsuccessfully - couldn't quickly find my big hammer). The resulting mashing the bolt head gave a slightly tighter fit with my new Allen bit and I eased out the bolt - hurrah! The centre stand is now secure on the bike..
Why Guzzi, why? The positioning of the centre stand stop bracket is approx. 20mm further forward on the V7 Special, compared to the V7III Carbon. I'll need to make up a small bridging bracket, to the rear pegs mounting point. I may also need to bend/reposition the bottom of the bracket so that is aligns with the stand's rubber stopper.
Trials and tribulations..
 

[Kev m]

Why Guzzi, why? The positioning of the centre stand stop bracket is approx. 20mm further forward on the V7 Special, compared to the V7III Carbon. I'll need to make up a small bridging bracket, to the rear pegs mounting point. I may also need to bend/reposition the bottom of the bracket so that is aligns with the stand's rubber stopper.
Trials and tribulations..
 

Hmmm, really? It's the OEM stand and not the HB one?

I can't imagine what with the different on the Special vs the Carbon that would change the mounting point of that bracket.

I didn't have a problem with mine, though I bought it used and can't confirm part numbers. But I THINK it was off a Special or maybe it was a Stone. I forget.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Hmmm, really? It's the OEM stand and not the HB one?

Seller's description:

I have for sale a Moto Guzzi V7 Special Main Stand off my 2023 motorbike The stand is in good condition and has a bolts etc

It's pretty much unused - just a few scuffs from a bike sitting on its stand. I assume OEM and no sign of any HB logo/stamp. Looks as if it was from a 850, being a 2023 bike and would account for any difference? Can't think why though. Thinking more about it: I have both silencers off, so will compare bracket position with them side-by-side.
I'm toying with the idea of removing the cotter pin from the pivot point, to replace with an R-clip. This makes it easier to remove the stand most of the time and only refit for maintenance/storage/major cleaning tasks. They're a substantial weight!

[Kev m]

Seller's description:It's pretty much unused - just a few scuffs from a bike sitting on its stand. I assume OEM and no sign of any HB logo/stamp. Looks as if it was from a 850, being a 2023 bike and would account for any difference? Can't think why though. Thinking more about it: I have both silencers off, so will compare bracket position with them side-by-side.
I'm toying with the idea of removing the cotter pin from the pivot point, to replace with an R-clip. This makes it easier to remove the stand most of the time and only refit for maintenance/storage/major cleaning tasks. They're a substantial weight!

Because the 2023 is a MKIV/850, the Carbon is a MkIII (V7III) and there are differences. I'm guessing in the exhaust and peg mounts among other things. I feel like the swingarm/rear drive is different on the 850's.

The OEM stand for the V7III was a different part number and is no longer available.

[DoubleGuzzi]

The saga continues..
Upon selling my now surplus Triumph 2-1 exhaust and standard sidepanels, I've purchased cheapo preload fork caps and as new factory V7-III Lowered Comfort Gel seat. The waiting game marches on..
 

[Vagrant]

Where did you find the adjustable fork caps?

[DoubleGuzzi]

Where did you find the adjustable fork caps?

There are a couple of listings on Ali but for some reason, they price them considerably higher than for other machines at about $46 - $44+delivery at the Jungle. Cheap compared to suspension specialists! I had been trying to negotiate a cheaper price from one of the sellers but decided to check feeBay, in the interim. Bizarrely, a pair of black ones have been drastically reduced in price, leaving silver ones just slightly cheaper than Ali.
With the reduction, plus a 5% coupon code, got the black ones for £22.80 all inclusive. Not too shabby a "saving"! Nothing ventured..
[This is where the V7 variations screws things up again.  ]

[DoubleGuzzi]

Further to my previous question regarding Fenda Extenda/fender extender, I got that aforementioned real carbon fibre one fitted. It required a little bit of gentle filing down the outer edges, where it starts to extend down the sides of the mudguard. I stuck it on with "Waterproof No More Nails", holding it in place with a couple of large woodworking clips (giant washing line pegs), for 24 hours indoors.
The weave pattern was never going to be the same as that on the Carbon Shine, given not only the grey fibre used but also the low angle of the weave. It doesn't bother me as I still prefer the look, over ABS.  It could be a better match for Darks though.
I was freezing out in the garage and it was failing light, so initial pic is lousy.



If I get really tired of the look, I'll remove and spray satin black, knowing that it still ain't plastic. 

[DoubleGuzzi]

Some more good news..
The cheap preload fork caps fit! Hurrah!

Easy fitting:

• Take the load/sag out of a fork leg (jack under sump, on centre stand but I expect just turning the bars, whilst on side stand, to be enough)
• Remove plastic fork cap cover, if fitted
• Unscrew existing the fork cap - may be torqued up and a large socket is best to use, rather than a spanner
• Take out the existing spacer washer
• With the new fork cap at the minimum preload setting, now screw the cap in. Only a little downward pressure is required, showing how 'weak' (low spring rate) the original springs are. I started the threads by hand
• Tighten up the fork caps - you may need to add a little bit of preload (8mm ring spanner), to give clearance for a socket.

It'll be a few weeks before I start to play with preload/sag settings.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Some updates..
Fork caps



The unused frame attachment for the Racer's rear master cylinder has found a purpose: fused relays, that can be linked together.



Positioned there it is a bit tight for getting the sidepanel back on, so I'll likely make a small bracket to move the relays more into the void behind the battery. It's easy to join the controlling wire(s) of the relay(s) to one of the three green/black ignition-switched wires on the underside of the fusebox. Only one relay is currently used, for heated grips: 5A fuse replacing the supplied 30A.



An idle switch is now added, to eventually control the low beam headlight, when I remove the rim to change bulbs and wire in an additional DRL.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Further additions..
Tri-wing fork cap adjusters.

.

Replacement reflector, with LED, wired as an additional brake light. Instead of the weird bracket of the original, I used an off-cut of double-sided carbon fibre sheet. The newly added sheet is pop riveted to the plastic license plate holder and wiring goes up to just under the existing tail light.



I found a use for the space between the grab rail and tail light. A cheap tool roll of the same type that I had on the Street Twin. Useful for various bits & pieces.

.

You may have spotted the factory lower comfort gel seat. I still find the seat pan a little bit too wide when my feet are on the ground - it digs into the inside of my thighs. I've been too spoilt by the skinny waist of a Street Twin.
Oh, and I had a spare Oxford DRL lying about the garage, so wired it up to the pilot light..