My "Project 2025" - 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 II

[vxn750]

I've been through quite a few different bikes during the last couple of years (Kawasaki Versys X-300, Suzuki SV650, Royal Enfield Himalayan, Yamaha Virago, Kawasaki Super Sherpa, Breva 750, Triumph Speedmaster 1200, Genuine Stella 150 2T and a BMW R65). All really fun, but an odd buying/selling/trading phase for me. The only bike I miss out of that lot is my Breva 750.

A few months ago I did a fly-n-ride from TX to TN for the 1983 BMW R65. I did enjoy the R65 but it definitely was not a Guzzi. Needless to say that affair was short lived. I made a deal with a buddy to trade the R65 for his V50 II plus some cash on his end. All we know about it's history was the guy he bought it from had bought it from another guy. It has 707 miles and looks pretty original and intact.

Although I've been riding for 17 years, this is my first attempt with a vintage, non-running bike. When I had mentioned to Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics of my plan, he laughed and joked in his typical Mark fashion that he would be perfectly willing to help me part with any cash once I got in over my head. Seeing as how being retired I have more time than cash, I figured I've got nothing to lose. Besides, it's another facet of motorcycling that I can explore and that fits with where I'm presently at.







Cheers to a new adventure 

[Turin]

What's wrong with it? It looks really good. Clean the tank and carbs, change the oil, slap in a battery and fire it up?

[vxn750]

What's wrong with it? It looks really good. Clean the tank and carbs, change the oil, slap in a battery and fire it up?

I'm hoping there's nothing wrong with it other than it hasn't been ran in a very long time, maybe even decades. It still has what might be the original spark plugs; Lodge 2HLNY.

I'm just being slow and systematic with it. Taking a lot of pictures as I go along.

The tank is full of rust. I think I'll try the vinegar method to clean it out. I've never taken carbs apart so I'm researching that process. I drained the oil and it doesn't look bad, no bits of metal or anything. I've got to check with my buddy to see if he knows if the previous owner had changed it recently.
I'll pick up a battery and order a few parts/supplies this week (oil/air filters, engine/gear oil, spark plugs) to begin with and see if I can get it started.

[faffi]

Get a manual, take your time, and you will be fine

[Tkelly]

Good looking bike,just like ours when it was new.Fun bike to ride.

[vxn750]

Get a manual, take your time, and you will be fine

Thanks! I’ve got the service manual, parts catalogue and Guzziology 

[vintagehoarder]

Awesome and congrtulations.  Sounds like a fun project. Good thing you have Mark in your back pocket, he's a great guy. I play it the same way but my go to out here is Enzo at Cadre when I get in over my head which is often LOL..  Keep us posted.

[vxn750]

The first thing that I noticed when I first saw the bike was a good amount of black goop on the right side swing arm.









I followed the trail and discovered that a previous owner used liquid electrical tape to solve some electrical issue. The protective cap of the Bosch ignition was filled to the brim with the liquid electrical tape and it overflowed onto the frame and swingarm. There was more of the black goop overflow on the right side but it was used on the left side as well.

[Turin]

Liquid electrical tape? New one to me. Get a couple of carb kits and clean them one at a time. Dellortos are easy.
As for tanks, I like using white vinegar, flush it with hot water and then flush with rubbing alcohol, fog with WD40.

[Walter]

I'm the previous owner of this bike.  It was actually one of my favorites, however I have 6 bikes in a queue waiting to be worked on, and I knew that vxn750 had been looking for a V50 for a few years - plus I was BMW air-head curious.  The bike is incredibly original - right down to the petrified tires.  I do not know whether the last owner added that fresh-looking oil or it was added long ago.  Whoever it was filled it to the brim, so hopefully it was a smart move to prevent condensation.  The registration sticker says 1981.  It really appears that the original owner rode it for 6 months and then parked it in a shed for 44 years.  I think it will be a fun project and will be stoked (and a little jealous!) if it can be running again without major work.  I'll definitely own a V50 again, but will need to purchase something already finished as I continue to work my way through my other projects.

[vxn750]

Liquid electrical tape? New one to me. Get a couple of carb kits and clean them one at a time. Dellortos are easy.
As for tanks, I like using white vinegar, flush it with hot water and then flush with rubbing alcohol, fog with WD40.

I've been watching a couple videos and downloaded a PDF from Dellorto. I'm feeling pretty optimistic about getting into the carbs. I like the idea of doing them one at a time.
Have you used a ultrasonic cleaner to clean carbs? I'm curious about them but not sure it'll fit in my budget.

Yup, gonna use vinegar for the rusty tank. Less toxic than the other options.

[vxn750]

I'm the previous owner of this bike.  It was actually one of my favorites, however I have 6 bikes in a queue waiting to be worked on, and I knew that vxn750 had been looking for a V50 for a few years - plus I was BMW air-head curious.  The bike is incredibly original - right down to the petrified tires.  I do not know whether the last owner added that fresh-looking oil or it was added long ago.  Whoever it was filled it to the brim, so hopefully it was a smart move to prevent condensation.  The registration sticker says 1981.  It really appears that the original owner rode it for 6 months and then parked it in a shed for 44 years.  I think it will be a fun project and will be stoked (and a little jealous!) if it can be running again without major work.  I'll definitely own a V50 again, but will need to purchase something already finished as I continue to work my way through my other projects.

Hey Walter!
I like that you listed all of your bikes. I was starting to lose track 
I'm really glad the trade worked out. I'd been thinking about the V50 since I first saw it in your garage.

[Walter]

Thanks, yah my signature block helps me keep track as well!

[vxn750]

So far I've located one broken part and three damaged wires.

Walter had pointed this out to me. It's a snapped gear shifter rod. I've already sourced one online.




This pink wire looks to have tiny teeth marks. I believe it's connected to the transmission case sensor switch.




This black wire is attached to the Bosch electronic ignition. I haven't figured out what the other end should be attached to.




This black wire I'm unsure of. Checking the parts catalogue it looks like it might be connected to the brake pump on the right hand side. Again, not sure where the other end should be.

[DoubleGuzzi]

How's the project going?
At first I thought you'd got a real cracker there, when I saw your first set of pics. The overall cosmetics look great!
As I discovered, it's only when you get close up and personal that you really discover the delights. Well done on picking your way through it all and I think that you may well be right with the black wire. If you haven't confirmed already, I can take a closer look at my bike, to see where a "rogue" earth (frame) connection leads to.




How the heck did that gearchange rod snap? 
I think that's the neutral switch wire that's been gnawed at.

If not already done: remove the clutch arm clevis pin and give is a good greasing.

I don't normally venture into this section of the forum but I'll try to remember to pop in, from time to time. I hope that you're enjoying the exploits of my V50. Potentially, you should end up with the better bike. 

[DoubleGuzzi]

Just taken a look at mine. The "rogue" connector goes up direct to the battery, as does the black wire from the Bosch ignition box.
HTH.

[vxn750]

Well, I’m back at it after some unfortunate life stuff, but some fun stuff as well.

I can say the process doesn’t seem as daunting as before I started. Removing the air box was relatively simple. I removed the left side carb and cleaned it. Took a ton of photos from every angle as well as notes. Between MG Cycle, Crusty Cycle and Eurotrash Jambalaya, I’ve been able to find all the basics (filters, cables, hoses, etc).

[vxn750]

How's the project going?
At first I thought you'd got a real cracker there, when I saw your first set of pics. The overall cosmetics look great!
As I discovered, it's only when you get close up and personal that you really discover the delights. Well done on picking your way through it all and I think that you may well be right with the black wire. If you haven't confirmed already, I can take a closer look at my bike, to see where a "rogue" earth (frame) connection leads to.




How the heck did that gearchange rod snap? 
I think that's the neutral switch wire that's been gnawed at.

If not already done: remove the clutch arm clevis pin and give is a good greasing.

I don't normally venture into this section of the forum but I'll try to remember to pop in, from time to time. I hope that you're enjoying the exploits of my V50. Potentially, you should end up with the better bike. 

Thanks for the info on the wires. The photo was very helpful.

The broken shifter rod was really odd. But then again the shifter rod on the BMW R65 that I sold to my buddy Walter snapped on the third day of my fly-n-ride to pick it up in TN. I was in Birmingham AL and just pulled out of the parking lot of the Airbnb when I felt it snap. I got stuck in first gear pulled over onto the sidewalk. Luckily there was a community bicycle shop around the corner with a handy bike tech. He took a peg board hook and made an awesome replacement for the rod. I bought a couple t-shirts, made a donation and was on my way.

I’ll make a note on checking the clutch arm clevis pin so that I don’t forget it. I’ll check out your thread.

As far as colors go, actually prefer the blue or brown to the red V50’s.

[vxn750]

Carb question:

I’ve cracked into the right carb and this is what I found.
Any thoughts on why it’s burned up? The left carb was pretty clean inside. My V50 II only has 700 miles on it.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Just looks gummy to me, not "burned up". I find that the left carb is often the least dirty of the pair, maybe due to the bike being on the sidestand and gas staying in the left carb longer.

[vxn750]

Just looks gummy to me, not "burned up". I find that the left carb is often the least dirty of the pair, maybe due to the bike being on the sidestand and gas staying in the left carb longer.

Ok, thanks Charlie! I wasn’t sure of the terminology, “gummy” is more accurate 
I’ll be cleaning it up today.

PS I’ve been following the work you’ve done on your V65 on FB. I’m taking notes. I like your Kawi Z750 side stand mod. I’ve put it on my list when I get to the cosmetic side of things. Oh, and I should have went with the green fuel line hoses 

Ivana

[vxn750]

Fuel petcock question:

Should the filter be replaced or just cleaned?
I’ve seen suppliers selling the whole petcock assembly, but the filter itself isn’t as easy to find. Also, it seems like the replacement for the plastic washer is a fiber washer. Sound right?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Fuel petcock question:

Should the filter be replaced or just cleaned?
I’ve seen suppliers selling the whole petcock assembly, but the filter itself isn’t as easy to find. Also, it seems like the replacement for the plastic washer is a fiber washer. Sound right?

I usually just clean them unless they're damaged. I do have a few spare new ones if necessary.

The washer MG Cycle sells is some sort of plastic. Fiber might actually be better - the plastic one compresses over time and the petcock needs to be tightened slightly or a leak will result.
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=379&products_id=1401

[vxn750]

I usually just clean them unless they're damaged. I do have a few spare new ones if necessary.

The washer MG Cycle sells is some sort of plastic. Fiber might actually be better - the plastic one compresses over time and the petcock needs to be tightened slightly or a leak will result.
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=379&products_id=1401

Thanks for all of the info and the offer Charlie :)
I'll take a closer look at the filters 

[vxn750]

Well, I am back at it
I'd been out of state and away from my V50 for a couple months.
To recap, prior to leaving I had cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, patched the chewed up wires back together and charged up the new battery. The tank is still off, as I haven't resolved the rust issue yet, so I ordered a little auxiliary fuel tank. I was very pleased with myself when I turned the key, pressed the button and she started right up  Not bad for an old girl who probably hasn't been run since the 80's.

Now that I have confirmation that she runs, I can move on to the brakes. I've got all the parts lined up: Brembo brake rebuild kits, new brake lines, etc. The first challenge is removing the frozen pistons. I've stalled on the pistons since I don't have an air compressor to pop them out. I've unsuccessfully tried a couple different techniques gleaned from online videos. I'll check with a neighbor to see if he's got a compressor and go from there.

Definitely a fine balance between elbow grease, brute strength, the right tools, know-how and stick-to-itiveness that I will be straddling throughout this process. So far, so good.

Question regarding the electrical system:
I'm considering going with Greg Bender's wiring harness/loom setup. Aside from the basics, he does offer a lot of options, upgrades such as the Domino handlebar switches. Has anyone upgraded their fuse box for a modern one that would allow for a 32Ah battery instead of the standard 20Ah? I'm leaning towards upgrading all of the electrical but I'm curious to know what most folks do.

 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Now that I have confirmation that she runs, I can move on to the brakes. I've got all the parts lined up: Brembo brake rebuild kits, new brake lines, etc. The first challenge is removing the frozen pistons. I've stalled on the pistons since I don't have an air compressor to pop them out. I've unsuccessfully tried a couple different techniques gleaned from online videos. I'll check with a neighbor to see if he's got a compressor and go from there.

Definitely a fine balance between elbow grease, brute strength, the right tools, know-how and stick-to-itiveness that I will be straddling throughout this process. So far, so good.

Question regarding the electrical system:
I'm considering going with Greg Bender's wiring harness/loom setup. Aside from the basics, he does offer a lot of options, upgrades such as the Domino handlebar switches. Has anyone upgraded their fuse box for a modern one that would allow for a 32Ah battery instead of the standard 20Ah? I'm leaning towards upgrading all of the electrical but I'm curious to know what most folks do.

 

If the caliper pistons are steel, heat the caliper body and apply your favorite penetrating fluid. Before using iar to pop the pistons out, wrap the caliper in a sturdy rag to keep the piston from flying off and causing havoc.

I've never upgraded the fuseblock - just cleaned the fuseholders and made sure they gripped the fuses tightly and used new fuses. I would recommend wiring in a relay to power the coils, and rewiring the starter relay so that it receives power directly from the battery. I'd also recommend LED bulbs in the dash warning lights so that you can see them in direct sunlight, LED headlight and taillight as well (saves power and brighter). If you install an LED in the "battery" warning light, then you'll need one of Greg's "bootstrap harnesses" in order for the charging system to function. I also recommend removing the four wires to the ignition switch from the 12(?) connector on the main harness and putting them in their own 4 (spade) terminal connector. The dinky Molex pins of the 12(?) pin connector aren't up to handling the amps involved and can heat up, melting the plastic connector shell.

Domino switches would likely be better than the stock switches, but if the throttle is part of the right switch, then you'll need a different throttle also and possibly custom length cables.

I'd stick with the 20 ah battery and change the starter to a Valeo type (plenty of copies for less than $100 on ebay).

[vxn750]

If the caliper pistons are steel, heat the caliper body and apply your favorite penetrating fluid. Before using iar to pop the pistons out, wrap the caliper in a sturdy rag to keep the piston from flying off and causing havoc.

I've never upgraded the fuseblock - just cleaned the fuseholders and made sure they gripped the fuses tightly and used new fuses. I would recommend wiring in a relay to power the coils, and rewiring the starter relay so that it receives power directly from the battery. I'd also recommend LED bulbs in the dash warning lights so that you can see them in direct sunlight, LED headlight and taillight as well (saves power and brighter). If you install an LED in the "battery" warning light, then you'll need one of Greg's "bootstrap harnesses" in order for the charging system to function. I also recommend removing the four wires to the ignition switch from the 12(?) connector on the main harness and putting them in their own 4 (spade) terminal connector. The dinky Molex pins of the 12(?) pin connector aren't up to handling the amps involved and can heat up, melting the plastic connector shell.

Domino switches would likely be better than the stock switches, but if the throttle is part of the right switch, then you'll need a different throttle also and possibly custom length cables.

I'd stick with the 20 ah battery and change the starter to a Valeo type (plenty of copies for less than $100 on ebay).

Thanks Charlie,
Success with removing the stuck piston out of the first brake caliper!! One down, five to go 
I didn't have access to an air compressor, but the heat along with the freeze-off and lots of prying and finagling did the trick. Although getting an air compressor is on my list, it's not on the top unless I find a great deal on a used one. If the other pistons are as stuck as this one was, I'll be much more liberal with the penetrating fluid. Heating up the caliper really did help a lot.

I've made note of your recommendations regarding the electrical:
-I'll stick with the original fuse block and the 20Ah battery
-I've been thinking about switching all the lights to LEDs. Any recommendations of where I can source the bulbs? I just checked SuperBrightLEDs, looks like they have them.
-I'll look into the Valeo starter and get more info on the Domino switches.





 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Thanks Charlie,
Success with removing the stuck piston out of the first brake caliper!! One down, five to go 
I didn't have access to an air compressor, but the heat along with the freeze-off and lots of prying and finagling did the trick. Although getting an air compressor is on my list, it's not on the top unless I find a great deal on a used one. If the other pistons are as stuck as this one was, I'll be much more liberal with the penetrating fluid. Heating up the caliper really did help a lot.

I've made note of your recommendations regarding the electrical:
-I'll stick with the original fuse block and the 20Ah battery
-I've been thinking about switching all the lights to LEDs. Any recommendations of where I can source the bulbs? I just checked SuperBrightLEDs, looks like they have them.
-I'll look into the Valeo starter and get more info on the Domino switches.

These are the bulb I use in the warning lights:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/74-led-bulb-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-base

Match the LED color with the lens color. Polarity matters, so they only work when inserted the correct way. I use a jewelers file to slightly round off the sharp corners to make then easier to insert.

Headlight and taillight bulbs I buy on Amazon.

I've bought several of the Chinese-made Valeo copies, they work just as well as genuine Valeos.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/157367854914