Just picked up my first Guzzi! 2015 V7 Special

[Parashootist]

A few days ago I picked up my first Moto Guzzi and 95th bike since I began riding  A seemingly mint V7 popped up for sale a few hours away near a spot I go paragliding so I made the trip with a friend and we got in a nice flight after picking up the bike. It's a 2015 V7 Special with just shy of 1500 miles on the odometer and aside from a boot rub mark here or there, it's like new. It came with H&B saddlebags/racks but is otherwise stock as far as I can tell.

The gentleman I bought it from said it hadn't been ridden much over the last 8 years so I drained the tank as soon as I got it home. After putting in some fresh gas, she fired up instantly. (she did run on the old gas as well when I looked at the bike)

Yesterday a couple gallons of Liqui Moly 10w60 GT1 oil arrived along with a few filters. Also a bottle of 75w90 Mobil 1 oil for the transmission. I will need to get oil for the differential and I'll probably flush the brake fluid as well.

Anything else I should do? The previous (original) owner said it had the valves done previously by a shop in Seattle. He also said it's mapped for sea level which sounded strange to me but I assume based on my reading that I may want to look into buying the cables and flashing it with Beetle's map?

Thanks! Look forward to riding this bike more.

[guzzisteve]

Wow, 95 bikes, you must be an old guy or hammer through alot of bikes to try them out.

[Parashootist]

Wow, 95 bikes, you must be an old guy or hammer through alot of bikes to try them out.

I'm approaching 40 so some people consider that old !

[Dirk_S]

2015 is the last of the small blocks with a 5-speed gearbox, no traction control, and no ABS.

The small blocks don’t naturally have a ton of travel in the rear due to the single UJ. Keep that in mind when considering suspension upgrades or modifications <cough>. But at least your engine is mounted upward, which slots for a little more ground clearance (V7 II dropped the engine to look more level).

Exhaust is single-walled, V7 III and on got double-walled pipes.

Rear wheel can be annoying to reinstall, as those cush rubbers can fall out of place easily. Recommended to dab them with thick grease or a little RTV sealant to help them stick in place while you install.

Assuming you’re doing the oils yourself? If so, it would be a good idea to pull the swingarm and check the driveshaft and u-joint for corrosion. Factory doesn’t usually grease them up.

If you overfill the engine, you will indeed have a wet airbox and filter. The small blocks don’t take much—2 liters spec’ed but maybe a hair less is better to avoid puking.

The fuel filter is probably the plastic type. These have been known to swell and fail. There’s a German metal style one that’s recommended as a replacement, but I also wouldn’t consider this a must-do.

Lots of bits on these Heron head small blocks up to 2016 are the same part # since the 80s. Like the driveshaft! Not a ton has changed, especially frame-wise, so you could even dress your pup in aluminum or carbon fiber like what’s on the V7 II or III (III is a different motor though).

Alternator is puny, but unless you need all the electric farkles, you’ll survive. I ride year round in Maine, and run heated grips and sometimes aux lights (led). If I wanted more heated gear, I’d consider my load.

I wouldn’t be cheap with my fuel type. 10.5:1 compression ratio means a bit more of a performance engine, tighter clearances. Treat her with the proper fuel and oil when possible (my opinion).

Dont lug the small blocks. Yeah, they’re v-twins, but that doesn’t mean they’re stroked out torque monsters. 4000-6000 is the sweet range.

Want a fun intro to Guzzis young and old, small and big? Dave Richardson’s Guzziology is a great book to have on hand for owners, acting as an in-depth supplement to service/owners manuals across the land.

Beetle map, yes! You won’t be sorry.

Hmmm. Surely that can’t be everything…

[Parashootist]

Thanks for the excellent reply. I failed to mention that the front and rear suspension has been upgraded, I'm not seeing any markings but I believe they're Progressive. At some point I'd love to lift the bike a bit and make it more of a scrambler as I live in Idaho and frequent dirt roads. I understand the constraints of the travel in the rear. I don't intend to try and make this a MX bike haha.

I was aware of it being the end of the 5 speed without rider aids. I used this in my negotiation and got the bike for what I feel was a good price.

I just drained the engine oil which looked to be in very good shape, it had a reddish hue to it so I'm guessing Motul. Very little swarf on the magnets, a few tiny specs.

I'll grease the shaft at some point but I think I may put a few miles on it first. I believe I may have a tube of shaft grease from an R1100GS I had but I may be mistaken.

I'd like to upgrade the exhaust to a high scrambler exhaust but unless I see a great deal on one, I may just make due with the stock exhaust. I may also see about making on, I do have a tig welder!

2015 is the last of the small blocks with a 5-speed gearbox, no traction control, and no ABS.

The small blocks don’t naturally have a ton of travel in the rear due to the single UJ. Keep that in mind when considering suspension upgrades or modifications <cough>. But at least your engine is mounted upward, which slots for a little more ground clearance (V7 II dropped the engine to look more level).

Exhaust is single-walled, V7 III and on got double-walled pipes.

Rear wheel can be annoying to reinstall, as those cush rubbers can fall out of place easily. Recommended to dab then with thick grease or a little RTV sealant to help them stick in place while you install.

Assuming you’re doing the oils yourself? If so, it would be a good idea to pull the swingarm and check the driveshaft and u-joint for corrosion. Factory doesn’t usually grease them up.

If you overfill the engine, you will indeed have a wet airbox and filter. The small blocks don’t take much—2 liters spec’ed but maybe a hair less is better to avoid puking.

The fuel filter is probably the plastic type. These have been known to swell and fail. There’s a German metal style one that’s recommended as a replacement, but I also wouldn’t consider this a must-do.

Lots of bits on these Heron head small blocks up to 2016 are the same part # since the 80s. Like the driveshaft! Not a ton has changed, especially frame-wise, so you could even dress your pup in aluminum or carbon fiber like what’s on the V7 II or III (III is a different motor though).

Alternator is puny, but unless you need all the electric farkles, you’ll survive. I ride year round in Maine, and run heated grips and sometimes aux lights (led). If I wanted to more heated gear, I’d consider my load.

I wouldn’t be cheap with my fuel type. 10.5:1 compression ratio means a bit more of a performance engine, tighter clearances. Treat her with the proper fuel and oil when possible (my opinion).

Dont lug the small blocks. Yeah, they’re v-twins, but that doesn’t mean they’re stroked out torque monsters. 4000-6000 is the sweet range.

Want a fun intro to Guzzis young and old, small and big? Dave Richardson’s Guzziology is a great book to have on hand for owners, acting as an in-depth supplement to service/owners manuals across the land.

Beetle map, yes! You won’t be sorry.

Hmmm. Surely that can’t be everything…

[jrt]

Thanks for the excellent reply. I failed to mention that the front and rear suspension has been upgraded, I'm not seeing any markings but I believe they're Progressive. At some point I'd love to lift the bike a bit and make it more of a scrambler as I live in Idaho and frequent dirt roads. I understand the constraints of the travel in the rear. I don't intend to try and make this a MX bike haha.

I was aware of it being the end of the 5 speed without rider aids. I used this in my negotiation and got the bike for what I feel was a good price.

I just drained the engine oil which looked to be in very good shape, it had a reddish hue to it so I'm guessing Motul. Very little swarf on the magnets, a few tiny specs.

I'll grease the shaft at some point but I think I may put a few miles on it first. I believe I may have a tube of shaft grease from an R1100GS I had but I may be mistaken.

I'd like to upgrade the exhaust to a high scrambler exhaust but unless I see a great deal on one, I may just make due with the stock exhaust. I may also see about making on, I do have a tig welder!

That is a pretty comprehensive description by Dirk.  He'd know- I've enjoyed reading his exploits on rebuilding and modifying his V7's. 
Get your bike sorted and enjoy some miles on it, then give me a holler if you are interested in high pipes.  I have a set of V7tre pipes that I'm not using anymore.

[Vagrant]

If you can start it cold and drive away fine, it has a good map. But a new Beetle map can't hurt. Especially if you put on pipes.
Most importantly, unless you have proof the heads were re-torqued at the 600 mile check up do it right now before it starts leaking.
Put a meter on the battery once in a while to check for less than 15 volts at 3000 RPM. Many 15's had bad regulators.

[Parashootist]

Engine and transmission oil have been changed. As I poured the oil back into a container to see how much came out, I did notice some metallic flakes. Hopefully I either didn't clean out my drain pain very well or the engine is just still breaking in.

If you can start it cold and drive away fine, it has a good map. But a new Beetle map can't hurt. Especially if you put on pipes.
Most importantly, unless you have proof the heads were re-torqued at the 600 mile check up do it right now before it starts leaking.
Put a meter on the battery once in a while to check for less than 15 volts at 3000 RPM. Many 15's had bad regulators.

I haven't really ridden it yet as I wanted to do an oil change before riding it much but it seems to start well. I've been letting it warm for a minute or two before pulling away. I'll probably check the head bolts just in case although the PO said it did have the 600 mile service. I'm pretty reluctant to trust anyone's work but my own so I usually like to start with a clean slate and just do everything even if I was told it was already done.

That is a pretty comprehensive description by Dirk.  He'd know- I've enjoyed reading his exploits on rebuilding and modifying his V7's. 
Get your bike sorted and enjoy some miles on it, then give me a holler if you are interested in high pipes.  I have a set of V7tre pipes that I'm not using anymore.

The V7tre pips are the ones I'd like. I'll be in touch for sure.

[Kev m]

The fuel filter is probably the plastic type. These have been known to swell and fail. There’s a German metal style one that’s recommended as a replacement, but I also wouldn’t consider this a must-do.

Point of order but afaiac this is a friggin myth.

Yes some have failed very early in a bike's life.

Yes they swell slightly in use over years.

But I don't think I've seen a reliable account that showed that swelling over years led to a failure.

As I've said, I've pressure tested swollen ones to 120 psi (or 3-4x EFI system operating pressure) and they didn't fail. Which is why my 2018 still has its original filter.

Other items with which I disagree:

Personally I wouldn't bother pulling the swingarm/rear.

I also wouldn't remap it UNLESS you make changes to the intake or exhaust and some you need it. First owner was an idiot and doesn't understand EFI.



Octane - these are air cooled and in the summer I pay attention to ratings generally sticking to 91, but you can run lower in cooler ambients or at altitude. Just listen for pinging and adjust fuel or the right wrist as needed.

Now I'll add that it's probably a wet alternator bike. Doesn't have much extra wattage so watch accessories.

Some early models had the clutch cable resting against the inner edge of a cylinder under the tank. If so it is wise to secure it to something to hold it off the cooling fins.

Also sometimes the spark plug wires are run too tight to the tank and can rub a little paint off the tank and, worse, remove insulation from the wire which can lead to misfires.

Pretty minor and easy stuff.

[Parashootist]

I think I'll ride over to the closest gas station and fill her up with some premium non ethanol fuel. That will also be 40 miles of riding :) .
I'm not sure if I'll change the final drive oil or not, the oil that came out of the transmission looked brand new.

I'll check the spark plug wires and the fuel filter.

Point of order but afaiac this is a friggin myth.

Yes some have failed very early in a bike's life.

Yes they swell slightly in use over years.

But I don't think I've seen a reliable account that showed that swelling over years led to a failure.

As I've said, I've pressure tested swollen ones to 120 psi (or 3-4x EFI system operating pressure) and they didn't fail. Which is why my 2018 still has its original filter.

Other items with which I disagree:

Personally I wouldn't bother pulling the swingarm/rear.

I also wouldn't remap it UNLESS you make changes to the intake or exhaust and some you need it. First owner was an idiot and doesn't understand EFI.



Octane - these are air cooled and in the summer I pay attention to ratings generally sticking to 91, but you can run lower in cooler ambients or at altitude. Just listen for pinging and adjust fuel or the right wrist as needed.

Now I'll add that it's probably a wet alternator bike. Doesn't have much extra wattage so watch accessories.

Some early models had the clutch cable resting against the inner edge of a cylinder under the tank. If so it is wise to secure it to something to hold it off the cooling fins.

Also sometimes the spark plug wires are run too tight to the tank and can rub a little paint off the tank and, worse, remove insulation from the wire which can lead to misfires.

Pretty minor and easy stuff.

[Kev m]

Oh, and keep an eye on the final drive (check fluid and/or replace each service) if ridden in the rain much. The boot can leak water into the final drive. I got some emulsified oil out once and had to flush it.

[Parashootist]

Oh, and keep an eye on the final drive (check fluid and/or replace each service) if ridden in the rain much. The boot can leak water into the final drive. I got some emulsified oil out once and had to flush it.

Thanks, I've got a 125,000 mile vstrom for rain duty 

I will still probably drain and fill it just to be sure.

I took it for a ride to the gas station and it's filled up with non ethanol premium. Just passed the 1500 mile mark.

[Bulldog9]

I'm approaching 40 so some people consider that old !

That many bikes by 40. Either your single, a .com baby, or you hide the spread sheet on profit/loss from SWMBO 

Either way, welcome to the real world where the V is as it was meant to be.... We look forward to seeing what your second Guzzi will be.

I love my V7ii Stornello TT, is a lifer....

This is a great site, and there is an active and good thread on V7s on ADV.

[Parashootist]

I have a girlfriend but no kids, never married. Most of the bikes I've owned have been very inexpensive and required work. I usually sell for a profit once completed. I've certainly lost money on a handful of them but overall I've made out decently.

If it proves to be reliable, I think I'll like it quite a bit.

That many bikes by 40. Either your single, a .com baby, or you hide the spread sheet on profit/loss from SWMBO 

Either way, welcome to the real world where the V is as it was meant to be.... We look forward to seeing what your second Guzzi will be.

I love my V7ii Stornello TT, is a lifer....

This is a great site, and there is an active and good thread on V7s on ADV.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Congratulations on your first Guzzi, may there be many more, you can't just have 1

[Parashootist]

Congratulations on your first Guzzi, may there be many more, you can't just have 1

Thanks! When V85TT's get cheap, I'll buy one of them too.

[kingoffleece]

Fork oil

[Parashootist]

Fork oil

Thanks, are you suggesting I change it? Change the weight? Check the level?

[kingoffleece]

It's way past time to change it.  Follow the schedule in the book.  It's all right there.

[slowmover]

My 2013 will drop the kickstand if it’s not oiled regularly.

[Parashootist]

My 2013 will drop the kickstand if it’s not oiled regularly.

What do you mean by drop the kickstand?

[slowmover]

While riding the kickstand will lower until it cuts the engine off. Not the best feeling. So I have to oil the pivot point every so often. You would think that oiling it would cause it to lower easily but it’s the opposite. It’s probably a spring issue. You may not have this even happen. It’s been discussed before here.

[Parashootist]

While riding the kickstand will lower until it cuts the engine off. Not the best feeling. So I have to oil the pivot point every so often. You would think that oiling it would cause it to lower easily but it’s the opposite. It’s probably a spring issue. You may not have this even happen. It’s been discussed before here.

That's what I assumed you meant but oiling seemed like it would cause it to lower easier. That sounds mildly dangerous! I'll keep an eye on it, thanks.

[SmithSwede]

I enjoyed the heck out of my 2013 V7 Stone small block.  One of my favorite bikes in more than 40 years of riding.  I put a bit more than 150,000 miles on mine before getting a different bike.  Some comments from a long time small block fan:

Change the stock rear shocks to the IKONS.  This makes an enormous improvement in the rear suspension and overall comfort.  I also hated the stock handlebars, and replaced them with Norman Hyde "M" bars, which were perfect for my tastes. 

I only ran synthetic 10W-60 oil, changed every 6 to 8 thousand miles.  Changed the filter every other oil change.  I was careful to let it idle a couple of minutes before riding off, and then was very gentle on the engine for the next 5 miles or so.  But once it was fully warmed up, I was constantly thrashing it.  I routinely rode it all day at an indicated 85 mph in Texas--this is a tough little motor.   No need to baby it. 

A lot of folks say not to use synethic in the final drive, but I always did, and never had any issues. 

Yes, the side stand will indeed drop, and cause the engine to cut off.  Keep it lubed. 

Locktite the shifter linkage bolt--it is notorious for loosening.  Indeed, locktite most components since the vibrations cause them to back out. 

Replace the stock spark plug boots with the good NGK types.  The stock ones are absolute junk, and caused me, and many others, a lot of issues. 

It is also a good idea to keep a little spray bottle of WD40 with you if you ride in wet conditions.  I had multiple no-start conditions if the bike was left outside next to the beach overnight, or in a pouring rain storm.  WD-40 the wires and spark plugs and it would fire right up.  Not a bad idea to pack a couple of known good spark plugs with you when traveling, just in case you wet-foul the ones in the engine.  That happened to me several times.

My gauges would sometimes fog up in heavy rain or humidity.  Judicious use of a hair dryer will un-fog them.

I had to put silicone sealant on the rear wheel speed sensor, otherwise it would get waterlogged and the speedometer would go crazy. 

I'd suggest new spark plugs on a regular basis, like every 6000 to 8000 miles.  I think this engine is hard on the plugs.  Or the ignition system is on the weak side. 

Run the engine oil at about the 1/2 mark, otherwise it will puke into the airbox.   

My 2013 V7 ate several crank phase sensors, so beware of that potential issue.  You can get them cheap by crossing referencing the same part that is used on a lots of Fiats.  I'm told these sensors are not meant to be exposed to oil, which is why they eventually fail on the small block. You will know if that is the problem because you will get no spark, no gas, and the starter will only crank a few seconds before stopping. 

Keep the main ground on the right side of the engine clean and tight.  I never got more than 2 years out of a battery, but then I was running mostly in the Texas heat.  Again, I suspect the vibrations did not help battery life. 

Definitely clean and lubricate the drive shaft couplings whenever you change the rear tire.  Mine were trashed at 60,000 miles, even though I thought I was lubricating them.  I was lubricating them, but maybe not cleaning the old grease off well enough. Or maybe these components only last that long--I never could decide on the correct answer. 

Expect the clutch to last about 60,000 miles.  On mine the input bearing on the transmission was toast at the same mileage, so be prepared to replace that when you do the clutch.  When I say toast, I mean the cage would barely hold the balls in the race.  I'm told this is a known weak spot of the small block transmission.  All the other transmission bearings seemed fine.   

I kept the valve lash at .006" intake and .008" exhaust, and would check it every 6 to 8 thousand miles.  Usually one exhaust was a bit tight when I would check it.  But starting at about 80,000 miles, the clearances just stayed the same.  I also stopped getting any swarf on the two magnetic drain plugs for the engine oil.  It was like the engine was finally broken in at that mileage. 

I never replaced the head stock bearings, or the swing arm bearings. I'd check and re-grease them, but they never got notchy. 

I replaced the fork oil a couple of times, and it seemed to make a noticeable difference.  Never had to replace the fork seals. 

As another poster said, do NOT lug the small block.  It prefers to rev, and is happier is you keep it spinning.   4000 to 6500 rpm. 

My favorite tire was the Michelin Pilot Activ.   Not sure if there are better options now, but the Michelins were great.  Usually got 10 to 12K on a rear tire.

[Parashootist]

Excellent comment. Thanks so much for taking the time to document all of that for me. I've owned a ton of bikes as documented above and the one I've put the most miles on has been the Vstrom 650. I've owned 5 of then and have one in the garage currently with over 125,000 miles. I rebuilt the entire engine at 110,000 as it was consuming oil and the output shaft splines had worn so much the nut would no longer stay tight. I'd love to get similar service out of this V7 as you got out of yours!

I'll definitely change out the spark plug boots if they haven't been changed already. The previous owner did replace the rear shocks and the fork springs, I believe both are Progressive but he had called then "magnums" which didn't meant much to me. Maybe I'll snap a picture of then in case anyone here knows what they are.

If I go through a scrambler conversion, I'll likely install longer rear shocks and taller bars. I'm going to ride it as is for a bit and see how I feel about it. I did buy this bike for me whereas the bulk of the bikes I've owned have been projects.

What did you replace your V7 with?

I enjoyed the heck out of my 2013 V7 Stone small block.  One of my favorite bikes in more than 40 years of riding.  I put a bit more than 150,000 miles on mine before getting a different bike.  Some comments from a long time small block fan:

Change the stock rear shocks to the IKONS.  This makes an enormous improvement in the rear suspension and overall comfort.  I also hated the stock handlebars, and replaced them with Norman Hyde "M" bars, which were perfect for my tastes. 

I only ran synthetic 10W-60 oil, changed every 6 to 8 thousand miles.  Changed the filter every other oil change.  I was careful to let it idle a couple of minutes before riding off, and then was very gentle on the engine for the next 5 miles or so.  But once it was fully warmed up, I was constantly thrashing it.  I routinely rode it all day at an indicated 85 mph in Texas--this is a tough little motor.   No need to baby it. 

A lot of folks say not to use synethic in the final drive, but I always did, and never had any issues. 

Yes, the side stand will indeed drop, and cause the engine to cut off.  Keep it lubed. 

Locktite the shifter linkage bolt--it is notorious for loosening.  Indeed, locktite most components since the vibrations cause them to back out. 

Replace the stock spark plug boots with the good NGK types.  The stock ones are absolute junk, and caused me, and many others, a lot of issues. 

It is also a good idea to keep a little spray bottle of WD40 with you if you ride in wet conditions.  I had multiple no-start conditions if the bike was left outside next to the beach overnight, or in a pouring rain storm.  WD-40 the wires and spark plugs and it would fire right up.  Not a bad idea to pack a couple of known good spark plugs with you when traveling, just in case you wet-foul the ones in the engine.  That happened to me several times.

My gauges would sometimes fog up in heavy rain or humidity.  Judicious use of a hair dryer will un-fog them.

I had to put silicone sealant on the rear wheel speed sensor, otherwise it would get waterlogged and the speedometer would go crazy. 

I'd suggest new spark plugs on a regular basis, like every 6000 to 8000 miles.  I think this engine is hard on the plugs.  Or the ignition system is on the weak side. 

Run the engine oil at about the 1/2 mark, otherwise it will puke into the airbox.   

My 2013 V7 ate several crank phase sensors, so beware of that potential issue.  You can get them cheap by crossing referencing the same part that is used on a lots of Fiats.  I'm told these sensors are not meant to be exposed to oil, which is why they eventually fail on the small block. You will know if that is the problem because you will get no spark, no gas, and the starter will only crank a few seconds before stopping. 

Keep the main ground on the right side of the engine clean and tight.  I never got more than 2 years out of a battery, but then I was running mostly in the Texas heat.  Again, I suspect the vibrations did not help battery life. 

Definitely clean and lubricate the drive shaft couplings whenever you change the rear tire.  Mine were trashed at 60,000 miles, even though I thought I was lubricating them.  I was lubricating them, but maybe not cleaning the old grease off well enough. Or maybe these components only last that long--I never could decide on the correct answer. 

Expect the clutch to last about 60,000 miles.  On mine the input bearing on the transmission was toast at the same mileage, so be prepared to replace that when you do the clutch.  When I say toast, I mean the cage would barely hold the balls in the race.  I'm told this is a known weak spot of the small block transmission.  All the other transmission bearings seemed fine.   

I kept the valve lash at .006" intake and .008" exhaust, and would check it every 6 to 8 thousand miles.  Usually one exhaust was a bit tight when I would check it.  But starting at about 80,000 miles, the clearances just stayed the same.  I also stopped getting any swarf on the two magnetic drain plugs for the engine oil.  It was like the engine was finally broken in at that mileage. 

I never replaced the head stock bearings, or the swing arm bearings. I'd check and re-grease them, but they never got notchy. 

I replaced the fork oil a couple of times, and it seemed to make a noticeable difference.  Never had to replace the fork seals. 

As another poster said, do NOT lug the small block.  It prefers to rev, and is happier is you keep it spinning.   4000 to 6500 rpm. 

My favorite tire was the Michelin Pilot Activ.   Not sure if there are better options now, but the Michelins were great.  Usually got 10 to 12K on a rear tire.

[SmithSwede]

What did you replace your V7 with?

Alas, I locked the front wheel on the V7 under moderate braking before a corner.  Crashed for the first time in 38 years, and broke my ankle.  It had just started raining as I was passing a gas station--pretty sure somebody spilled diesel and I just didn't see it.  I wound up giving the Guzzi away to a young kid who wanted to fix it up and get into riding.

Replaced the V7 with a 2019 Kawasaki Z900 RS Cafe, in the vintage Eddie Lawson racing green.  Now the Zed is my all time favorite bike, with the V7 in second place. 

So far they still let me hang out with the cool Guzzi kids. 

[Parashootist]

I've always liked the Eddie Lawson paint scheme. Years ago I looked at a ZRX1200r in those colors. Bummer abought the wreck. I've certainly hit fresh diesel before and it's like ice. I hope I got a good V7, seems like some cover big miles and some (probably a small minority) experience some kind of bottom end failure with relatively low mileage. This motor certainly makes some noises I'm not accustomed to but seems to run well.

Alas, I locked the front wheel on the V7 under moderate braking before a corner.  Crashed for the first time in 38 years, and broke my ankle.  It had just started raining as I was passing a gas station--pretty sure somebody spilled diesel and I just didn't see it.  I wound up giving the Guzzi away to a young kid who wanted to fix it up and get into riding.

Replaced the V7 with a 2019 Kawasaki Z900 RS Cafe, in the vintage Eddie Lawson racing green.  Now the Zed is my all time favorite bike, with the V7 in second place.

[Dirk_S]

I've always liked the Eddie Lawson paint scheme. Years ago I looked at a ZRX1200r in those colors. Bummer abought the wreck. I've certainly hit fresh diesel before and it's like ice. I hope I got a good V7, seems like some cover big miles and some (probably a small minority) experience some kind of bottom end failure with relatively low mileage. This motor certainly makes some noises I'm not accustomed to but seems to run well.

That ‘bottom end failure’ you’re referring to is most likely the V7 II motors. I personally have never heard of a batch of small blocks experiencing a similar incident except for those guys. Luigi did not have his daily espresso on the day he was making crankshafts and milled the flanges too far back, leading to mucho thrusting, kicking out the thrust bearing which led to ultra mucho thrusting, digging into the crankcase until explode’y things. I’ve personally taken apart one of these motors and compared the crankshaft to a couple others. Jim Hamlin, a well-known Guzzi mechanic and dealer out of Connecticut confirmed my findings with his.

[Parashootist]

Well that's reassuring. I thought I had read some 2015s had the issue also (I realize other places the 2015 was the V7ii).

I read through your thread about your failure. The interesting thing is yours failed at 33k while that small batch seemed to all fail much earlier. Either way, I'll try not to worry about it.

That ‘bottom end failure’ you’re referring to is most likely the V7 II motors. I personally have never heard of a batch of small blocks experiencing a similar incident except for those guys. Luigi did not have his daily espresso on the day he was making crankshafts and milled the flanges too far back, leading to mucho thrusting, kicking out the thrust bearing which led to ultra mucho thrusting, digging into the crankcase until explode’y things. I’ve personally taken apart one of these motors and compared the crankshaft to a couple others. Jim Hamlin, a well-known Guzzi mechanic and dealer out of Connecticut confirmed my findings with his.

[Dirk_S]

Well that's reassuring. I thought I had read some 2015s had the issue also (I realize other places the 2015 was the V7ii).

I read through your thread about your failure. The interesting thing is yours failed at 33k while that small batch seemed to all fail much earlier.

Oh, mine—nor any bike that high of miles on the motor—had nothing to do with that crankshaft issue. Rather, I was running a sidecar on my V7, and I failed to do my due diligence and check the oil more often when the rig is under extra load (more highway travel or more weight in the car). Oil was burnt up, sump went dry, crankshaft and big end bearing lost lubrication, and we had ourselves a dead goose.

Even Ural says that when their rigs are under such load, one must check oil level more often. I was simply—as I am often—a dunce.