Monza/Le Mans-inspired V9 Project

[Dirk_S]

Reading this article and seeing a video about this build they had to modify the rear drive somehow, which is not clear, but it wasn't a bolt on job.

Yeah, I spoke with him briefly yesterday. He said it was the only part they had to make from scratch for their builds.

[Aldo]

Great looking bike, really love how it came out!

What did you do regarding the fuel pump etc? Is everything external now or did you modify the Monza tank?

[Dirk_S]

What did you do regarding the fuel pump etc? Is everything external now or did you modify the Monza tank?

I bought a used external system off an early 00s EV big block. The one I bought had the regulator that runs inline with the pump and filter, but then I bought a tank-fitted regulator and placed on the right side petcock fitting. Using a high-flow manual petcock on the left.

I’d love to install an in-tank setup. Maybe one day, but I don’t know if I can avoid the internally welded nuts part. Might have to bite the bullet there.

BTW, big shout-out to Charlie @ Antietam Classic Cycle for helping me LOADS with the fueling system.

[DoubleGuzzi]

I’d love to install an in-tank setup. Maybe one day, but I don’t know if I can avoid the internally welded nuts part.

I wonder if pop rivet captive nuts (blind rivet nuts) would be a good alternative - easier than welding? There are versions with an integrated seal.

[Dirk_S]

I wonder if pop rivet captive nuts (blind rivet nuts) would be a good alternative - easier than welding? There are versions with an integrated seal.

RIVET NUTS ARE A THING!? With a seal, that could indeed be an enticing option.

[DoubleGuzzi]

RIVET NUTS ARE A THING!? With a seal, that could indeed be an enticing option.

https://www.huyett.com/blog/what-is-a-blind-rivet

I assume these ones are expensive:
https://www.boellhoff.com/gb-en/news/2021/blind-rivet-nuts-and-studs-with-integrated-sealing-solution-rivkle-seal-ring/
https://www.gesipa.co.uk/products/technologies/g-sealed-blind-rivet-nut/
https://www.bossard.com/eshop/global-en/rivet-technology/blind-rivet-nuts/closed-end-blind-rivet-nuts/tubtara-dpx/p/25108/?category=02.200.200.10&index=26&q=%3Arelevance#tab-features
Shop around. 

IF the fuel pump flange seal fits around the perimeter, outside the retaining bolt holes, then you'd likely get away with not needing the sealed rivet nuts. You may get dribbles of fuel sitting in the flange void though. YMMV
A while back, I bought a boxed assortment from AliXpress, for my various farkles. Non-specific/generic rivet nuts tend to have a larger minimum contact area though i.e. the material thickness that you want to attach them to.

[Dirk_S]

Before I put the bike in storage for the winter, I was able to take care of one more modification. Just like on my V7 III enduro, I dumped the stock 350mm shocks for a pair of 380mm Hagons fit to my weight. Aesthetically I felt the rear of the bike sagged down, harkening to its cruiser style origin, and I wanted to push for a slightly more fast-aggressive look. The lower shock mounts sit maybe an inch farther back on the V9’s final drive than on the older style pumpkin of the V7 III, so the rear sits a hair lower—and doesn’t stress the UJ as much—than my V7. I like the look, especially because the tank doesn’t appear to climb in the front as much.

Before:


…And after:


Over the winter I hope to swap out the V9 triples and wheels for a V7’s, clean up the bikini fairing a little…and who knows what else.

[bad Chad]

Really looks great!    I would ditch the ballon front tire (I am not a fan of fat front tires, just personal taste) put on something a bit more svelte and you will have a show winner.

[Dirk_S]

Appreciate that, Chad, and agreed! I’ve seen some custom sporties that used the balloon tires, but a skinnier 18” front will handle so much better. Heck, I’m considering lacing up an 18” for the rear, or just sticking with a V7 17” rear. If I can get it close to this concept that I rendered, I’ll be a pretty happy camper:

[faffi]

17in wheels would likely be cheaper conversion, but 18in would be more true to the original Monza and LeMans. Both would be a huge improvement over the fat 16inchers.

Also, I believe the double U-joint system will tolerate the more acute swingarm angle with longer shocks better than the older system.

[Huzo]

It’s well on the way…
Rear is a bit too low, the top frame rail should be parallel with the ground. Also, are you going to ditch the wagon wheels ?
One thing is certain, it’s more attractive than a V9…

[Dirk_S]

Yep, looking to replace the wheels. I mentioned that below the photos, but that text is easy to miss.
Huzo, you think the rear still sags a bit much, even with the new shocks added (bottom two pics)? Some of that may be optical illusion, as the front of the tank does stick up a tad in relation to the horizon of the frame. This is partly due to the extra big heads of the V9 preventing me from properly setting the tank perfectly level, but also, the V50 Monza never had the perfectly straight juxtaposition of line aesthetics like its Le Mans III big sister. I will probably redo the rear mounts for the seat to lift the back up a hair more, which should help.

I was hoping to do cast wheels, but if I decide to go 18” in the rear, I’m not sure that the old V50/V65 18” wheel will mate to the final drive and caliper without modification. I could possibly add spacers or modify things just enough to work, or I could make life simpler by building a spoked wheel.