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I replaced the chips in both P8 & 16M when they were available.
Other option, use a Marelli 15m, it's a bit smaller unit, but can be written with maps.
Does this mean the Will Creedon chips are NLA? That would certainly limit my options.
Hi yall, I was a member here a decade+ ago and left my account dormant, so I'm starting from scratch. I've bought a Centauro and I'm researching the ECU. I've read a few threads with the different solutions mentioned but couldn't find a recent summary of them all. I'm a bit green here, but I'm familiar with MaxxECU as I'm using it on my Alfa GT. Maps are freely shared in that world so we tend to choose the ECU platform based on local tuner's preference.Here's how I understand our options (with plenty of newby assumptions):Stock Marelli ECU - live with "the stumble". Or else have someone who knows what they're doing flash the ECU with fueling/advance maps that they like. Or have someone make a chip for you.Will Creedon chip - Remove a chip from your Marelli and insert Will's. Get the maps that Will dyno developed onto your ECU. I also assume his maps aren't otherwise shared freely (perhaps he sells his base maps?)Cliff Jefferies MyECU - A full ECU replacement, tailored to replace the Marelli unit without fuss. Plug and play with harness, calibrate your sensors, and run the maps Jefferies likes for you bike. Presumably different than Will's maps. Appears to support DIY road tuning and closed loop data logging for fueling refinement. I've found dyno operators to be picky about which ECUs they will work with, so not sure I could get on a dyno with this.Full aftermarket - A decent unit like the MaxxECU mini is double the cost of MyECU, but they have wide dyno support and the tuning software is great. Unless you can buy one of the base maps above, you are starting from scratch and doing everything on a dyno.It seems like many are happy with Will's maps, and others didn't get a great tune until they got a MyECU (possibly some Marelli hardware glitches to fault). It even sounds like some did both, although it wouldn't be clear to me which maps they'd be running.Is the only way to get Will's And Cliff's maps to buy both units?
Got the bike back home today after a two day ride on coastal/canyon roads. Popped the ECU cover and the chip has a paper label with "CentiX2" written on it. Google isn't turning up a verbatim match for that.It does have a miss/hesitation somewhere lower in the rev range, can't say where for sure since it has a bouncy tach, but feels like 3k-4k. Engine didn't rev as freely as my carb Sport 1100, I assume that's not right either.The biggest issue was a harsh transition between throttle closed and 1% open (in either direction). There's a sharp jolt to the rear tire each time you cross that threshold, no way to smoothly enter engine braking or apply throttle out of a corner.It probably needs some sorting all around, it's been on non-op for 20 years. I don't want to judge the fueling/ignition just yet. Maybe a throttle sync, check timing and pickup/sensor clearance and whatever else might cause issues.
Careful attention to correct (zero) throttle free play pays off hugely on the early high cams. Idle speed also plays a part in the herky jerky throttle business. You should be feeling a rush of acceleration above about 4k rpm, almost too quick to roll off before redline.
make sure your throttle bodies are synced before you mess with the chip. The white adjustment knob (visible on the left side) tends to rotate on it's own and can cause a snatchy throttle response.