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Per the manual for a 2 valve per cyl. Norge, the dash is where you can read the error codes. It will show the ECU and the dash. The dash is where the OP codes are kept. If there is an X in the left check box, it's a current issue, if it's in the right box, it's stored in memory IIRR. If do a search for DSB 07, you should be able to find a pic of the dash showing the error codes.
Not super positive, because I have an 8V Norge, but that is the ABS connector. THe GD is up higher at the small fuse box near the seat latch, and the plastic tool bag carrier cover thinggy.
So what was wrong with just removing the negative lead from the battery, and feeding the current through a small globe to test for a parasitic drain ?Then if the drain exists, disconnect the suspect sensor and see if the light goes out ?Would that not tell you whether the sensor was/is the culprit ?
UPDATE: Measured the MG (Italy) sensor that I removed, it measures OPEN on the bench. Measured the replacement Delco sensor (has the nail head top) I just bought and it measured CLOSED (conducting) on the bench. I installed it and am keeping fingers crossed that the sensor is the culprit.Although this goes against my intuition; seems to the single lead on the sensor can only light the RToD if the sensor was CLOSED (conducting), whereas the current MG cycle sensor reads OPEN and the light is on.
The one that I bought from MGC (Italy) lasted one day before it went bad.