Linseed Oil to Rust-Protect a Bare Tank?

[Dirk_S]

Has anyone used linseed oil on a bare motorcycle tank or an old automobile?

I currently use WD-40 on my R80/7’s tank, and it does a good enough job. Up here in coastal Maine, I find myself having to rub a little rust off with a green ScotchBrite and reapplying about every other week, or after a rain (btw, using a bike cover, even the ones with the vents, causes the moisture to really stick around the tank, so I often leave the bike sit out or at most use my Nelson-Rigg half-cover.)

Sometimes I’ll wipe the tank down instead with Boeshield T-9. It’s a little thicker and I think stays a little longer. But I only have one can of T-9 vs much more WD-40.

When I left for my Chile-Argentina trip in December, I treated the tank with Fluid Film (lanolin-based and thick). When I came back 30 days later, that puppy was still shiny and fresh, despite multiple snowfalls. But Fluid Film stays sticky.

Curious if linseed oil might provide the longevity traits of Fluid Film without being sticky.

Pic of the ratty cutie just because:



exclude duplicates

[Littlefield]

Worth a try. I wonder what wax would do.

[StuCorpe]

I have used Linseed oil to finish gunstocks and to treat wood floors and doorsills but have never used it on metal.  Personally I don't think I would try it.  It's just another form of varnish.

[cliffrod]

If you haven’t considered using Gibbs, check it out-

https://gibbsbrandlubricant.com/shop/

Edit- any linseed oil left on the outside of my gallon can of linseed oil stays sticky in a different way than fluid film that I also keep & use here at the studio….  I also have Boe$hield that I use on my cast iron equipment surfaces.  Gibbs is preferred by older car friends to help protect under carriage components and unpainted parts on special old cars without actual undercoating.

[John A]

Boiled linseed oil dries. Raw linseed oil doesn’t. After I strip a wood stalk, I rub in raw linseed oil. When I’ve done it a few times I rub in boiled linseed oil. After it dries if I scratch it in use it doesn’t show. If I use the boiled on metal, I like to use heat for a faster, maybe harder finish. It would be worth trying on the tank. Linseed oil is why they say not to leave oily rags in a pile. It will ignite and burn the place down in the middle of the night when you are trying to get some sleep.

[Bill W]

Try some "Penetrol" ( for oil base paint not latex ). This is a paint additive that works so well at sealing & removing rust that the company ( Flood ) at one time rebranded it as "Rustrol". I was introduced to it by a commercial diver who would treat all his tools with it. I've used it on alot of my restorations as it so thin it can get into very tight spots and the excess easily wipes up.

[SIR REAL ED]

If you haven’t considered using Gibbs, check it out-

https://gibbsbrandlubricant.com/shop/

Edit- any linseed oil left on the outside of my gallon can of linseed oil stays sticky in a different way than fluid film that I also keep & use here at the studio….  I also have Boe$hield that I use on my cast iron equipment surfaces.  Gibbs is preferred by older car friends to help protect under carriage components and unpainted parts on special old cars without actual undercoating.

Thanks.  This looks like something I should try!

[Parashootist]

What about just hitting it with a can of 2k clearcoat? Then you get the raw look without having to do snything further and the 2k clear will be fuel resistant.

[Dirk_S]

What about just hitting it with a can of 2k clearcoat? Then you get the raw look without having to do snything further and the 2k clear will be fuel resistant.

Long answer—Because I don’t want to clear coat it.

I feel like true rats shouldn’t be clear-coated. Purely my own weird ethical threshold. I mean, I’m willing to spot paint areas, but I don’t want to clear-coat?? For now, I just find entertainment in the idea that I need to maintain the protection, and there’s the potential to allow the tank to further “age”.

[John Croucher]

Copper sulfate root killer.  Clean tank and do a final rinse with copper sulfate dissolved in water.

[Dirk_S]

Copper sulfate root killer.  Clean tank and do a final rinse with copper sulfate dissolved in water.

To protect the outside of the tank??

[SED]

I use boiled linseed oil to protect unplated fasteners on the bacon slicer and Ariels and it seems to last for years in the damp and with the occasional soaking (I live in the PNW).  Most fasteners have been coated with Caswell black oxide treatment which provides a little corrosion protection, but not enough.  Boiled linseed oil might soften or wash off with spilled gas, but it's easy to recoat.

It also works as a soft thread locker.

Spontaneous combustion of the rags is a real hassle, but keeps things exciting 

[spmoto]

Dirk,

I'm a blacksmith living in Maine like yourself. A traditional finish used on forged iron work for centuries consists of a mixture of equal parts boiled linseed oil and beeswax with a small amount of turpentine to help it blend. The past couple of decades I've gotten away from using beeswax and have substituted butchers wax which I feel makes for a harder finish. You can warm the ingredients gently to get them to blend and then store the mixture in a sealed container. Apply the first coat with the tank nice and warm (sunshine). Apply a very thin coat and rub it in well, allow it to dry 24 hours, buff it out and apply another coat at room temp, when dry, buff it and follow with a couple coats of plain wax. Keep the tank clean and waxed regularly and it should hold up pretty well. However, spill gas on it and forget it.

Steve M (unity)

[Dirk_S]

Appreciate the responses. I may indeed give it a go. The chemical heat combustion of rags forms a little concerned, as I’ve had one too many close calls, but I’ll certainly be cautious. One of my concerns was treating the underside of the tank, thinking it might be too close to the hot motor. Maybe I stick to keeping the underside painted and treating the exterior that remains exposed to the air.

[SIR REAL ED]

I use boiled linseed oil to protect unplated fasteners on the bacon slicer and Ariels and it seems to last for years in the damp and with the occasional soaking (I live in the PNW).  Most fasteners have been coated with Caswell black oxide treatment which provides a little corrosion protection, but not enough.  Boiled linseed oil might soften or wash off with spilled gas, but it's easy to recoat.

It also works as a soft thread locker.

Spontaneous combustion of the rags is a real hassle, but keeps things exciting 

Discovering the flashpoint of a heated petroleum product is always entertaining!!!

After the first time, you never forget the definition of "flash point!"