P0335 Camshaft sensor: no signal

[Kaladin]

My 2007 Norge has the red triangle warning come on intermittently, but getting more mittent.  Guzzi Diag says P0335 Camshaft sensor: no signal.

The bike still runs like a well-oiled top.   
Any ideas?

thanks
mark

[RinkRat II]

  Likely swarf on the end of the sensor. Pull it out and clean it off  see what happens. My $.02

  Paul B   

[guzzisteve]

You got your warning, I'd get one. That's just me though, if you pull it have a new one in case there's no issue.

[pressureangle]

intermittent failures of inductive sensors are most often wiring faults. Pull the harness connector, clean it with Caig DeOxit, and see what happens.
You won't have swarf because it's inside the engine unless you have more serious issues internally.
The sensor is captured so it can't back out or have bad bearing clearance like automotive ABS sensors.

*if* the sensor is going bad internally, which they do, the failure will show up when the sensor is hot, such as idling in traffic on a hot day then return to service as it cools. This starts slowly and becomes more frequent and at lower temperatures until complete failure.

[RinkRat II]

 Actually, the sensor see's all kinds of hot oil which carries microscopic metallic particulates the oil filter doesn't remove and over time it builds up on the end or the sensor.

    Paul B

[Kaladin]

Thanks.  The triangle usually comes on when it's cold.
Do I have to pull the tank to get to it?

[jrt]

When mine when out, it went intermittently- worked when cold, not when it warmed up.  And when I checked the resistance (cold), it was within spec.  Never checked it warm.
So, I agree with Steve to have one on hand. 

[guzzisteve]

Left hand side of front cover where the timing chain is housed.

[Kaladin]

I found it, but I am at a loss of how to get to it.   What do I need to disassemble to remove it?

[jrt]

I don't recall any difficulty in accessing it, but I have an EV, not a Norge.  Maybe remove the fuel tank?  On my bike, that area is relatively uncluttered.

Does the sensor look like oil is moving through it or it is leaking?  If so, time for a new one most likely.
Oh- here are some maybe useful bits of info.  This first one I copied off the internet- I'm sorry, but I don't recall the source, and it is only good for the two-hole model of CPS:
Crankshaft position sensor
For older fuel-injected Monsters and Supersports (with two holes, saying “Marelli 8i3” on it), the part number is the same as on an Alfa Romeo 145 or 146, on a Fiat Tip, Tempra, Ducato, or a Lancia Dedra. The part numbers are: Fiat 7679221, 7694335, 60603937; Alfa Romeo/Lancia: 60603937, 60810103, 7733001; FAE 79015; Meat & Doria 87074; Standard 18783.

And here is a diagram to add LED's across the fuel pump and injectors- which let you know that they are powered up.  This is thanks to KiwiRoy- he gets all credit.  When you turn the key, both LED's will light up.  The one on the pump/coil will shut off after ~3 seconds.  When you crank the motor over, it should come back on and both should stay on. 

[Kaladin]

To answer my own question, I found that if I loosen the fairing by taking out a bunch of screws I can take off the exhaust pipe and access the camshaft sensor with some difficulty.  I never learned how to fix things by swearing, but I was able to get it out despite this handicap.  4mm allen wrench using a 1/4 inch socket wrench and extenders for anyone who is interested.

It looks like I will also need to remove the tank and air box in order to find the wire connector, which I will do when I get the new sensor. 

more as it happens. . .

[Kaladin]

Here is a photo of the cam position sensor in place.

[John A]

A search on this site should get you some tips on setting the clearance between the sensor and cam wheel. I used the JB weld quick setting method that worked well. Otherwise you have to access the cam wheel and use a feeler gauge

[jrt]

I made a simple tool to measure the distance between the seat and the gear teeth.  It's just a rod, friction fit in a delrin housing.  Insert the delrin into the hole, push down the rod.  Pull it out and use a set of calipers to measure it.  If anyone wants to use it, I'll send it out. 

[Kaladin]

I can see now how the cam sensor distance is determined, but how the heck do you set it?  There were no shims under the old one, and no shims supplied with the new one.

[jrt]

You might have to make your own.  In my case, the old and new were the same dimensions, so I did not need to do any adjusting. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

If the sensor fails chances are the coil will be dead that's why its nice to have  an LED monitoring the relay Voltage as shown on the sketch.
The sensor consists of a small magnet with a coil wound over it, as the timing gear teeth pass by the tip of the magnet it creates ripples in the magnetic field that induces a waveform in the coil which is monitored by the ECU
No ripple in the field = no waveform for the ECU so it releases the coil feeding the relay so no fuel pump and no ignition.
Without fuel and ignition the engine is a dead weight!
I suspect the sensor fails opening a microscopic crack between the coil and the connecting wires.

This sensor is about the only thing you can't fix by the roadside, it would be a good idea to carry a spare c/w the required shims to set the gap.
http://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf Page 13
The resistance may have changed over the years but the idea is the same.