NorgeGT clutch replacement.

[theoneandonlymin]

I've done a quick search here but not found anything.

Just looking at my NorgeGT with view to replacing the clutch. It's at 65000 miles and making a lot of noise. I'd rather get in there for a look/ replacement after a close call with my Stelvio where a spring was making an escape and rubbing on the gearbox.

So, having done the Stelvio it looks easier to remove and replace the engine/ gearbox.
What pitfalls will I encounter ?



Cheers

[guzzisteve]

Pretty much just like Stelvio cept airbox is on top not behind. Still has to come completely out.

[theoneandonlymin]

OK thanks, the Stelvio had 3 seized lower bolts into the engine. Which had to be drilled out. Doesn't appear to be similar attachments on NorgeGT.

Here's my close encounter of the Stelvio clutch...





Cheers

[blackcat]

Ugh, this doesn't look like a fun job but could you post as much as you can during this project? I have about that many miles on my Norge so it maybe something I'd have to face some day. Thanks and good luck.

[theoneandonlymin]

Fun, ha, it's always fun.
Sometimes a challenge.
At least I've had a recent wee bit of practice. The A frame is still in place.
Read this....


https://www.guzziriders.org/stelvio-no-starty_topic15376.html

Cheer.

[red stripeguz]

Ugh, this doesn't look like a fun job but could you post as much as you can during this project? I have about that many miles on my Norge so it maybe something I'd have to face some day. Thanks and good luck.

What he said. I'd love a write-up on this

[guzzisteve]

There may be a guide photo thing over on the Griso Ghetto but that would be a Griso.

[theoneandonlymin]

So I've done a wee bit more today, I've had it apart this far before so it was relatively straight forward.

I generally take photos to remind me where everything sits when it comes to the 1000 piece jigsaw.










See y'all in a few weeks as I'm heading off.

Cheers

[theoneandonlymin]

Here's the latest update.
Removed the throttle complete from the heads which looked the simplest way. Plenty of space.




Put it up on the engine stand which allowed me to remove centre stand and exhaust.

Next trauma from experience was going to be the side stand bolts, one in the crankcase and the other in the gearbox. These were a nightmare on my Stelvio. But cracked off ezpz.

[theoneandonlymin]

So here y'all are, another exciting instalment from the bench.
I'd previously replaced/ serviced the linkage last year when I bought it and knew the swinging arm bearings would be like this.
Also I'd be doing my clutch so left them.

I've an A frame in my workshop from previously working on my Stelvio.

So basically get the bench up high, engine on stand , ratchet strap the frame to the A frame, loosen the remaining 3 bolts.
Lower the engine on stand/ lower bench with the engine on it.
Give the frame a bit of a wiggle and it's out.
Gearbox off this afternoon to see what is what.

[theoneandonlymin]

[theoneandonlymin]

So here I am a bit further along.
Photos show what I've done and where I'm at...













So as you can see I've a few leaks.crank seal will be peplace.
Tensioner o ring.
Idler (?) Shaft cover O ring.
How does the cover come up?
Loosen the cover with a soft drift then lever/wiggle up from one end at a time. Thanks Pete.

[moto-uno]

  There should be 2 threaded holes in the rear bearing plate (under the retaining bolts) . If it's anything like the newer 1400's , that cover is actually glued onto the engine cases .
I would seriously heat the engine cases and place ice cubes on the cover before using the 2 threaded bolts to try and loosen the cover . I ended up threading the other bearing cover holes,
they were the right size for a 5/16" or 3/8" coarse tap . I made steel plugs to go in the holes that were level with the engine case ( to prevent the extra bolts used for pulling the cover from damaging the threaded engine cases . It was a real PITA . Good Luck , Peter

[theoneandonlymin]

I'm only talking about the idler shaft , Moto Guzzi, cover. Thank goodness

[theoneandonlymin]

So, it came up with a bit of careful levering, the oring and the oring of the tensioner cap were brittle.
Easily enough replaced (The dowty washers seals on the oil lines were also brittle)





The cap is playing hard to replace due to the shaft being lifted by the chain tensioner.

[theoneandonlymin]

Onwards again now the decorating is over...

Replacement clutch from Stein Dinse at 15% discount.
Swapped out the rubbish allen bolts for hex heads.
Cam cap went back in with a bit of gentle levering.


Upside down to replace both gaskets.



Not corrosion just gasket "gum"



There's been pages about the spacer gasket. I ordered a GU01003651 from Fowlers but already had a green one for my V1000G5. One thou difference in favour of the green. But it feels like cardboard whereas the Guzzi part feels tougher/ nicer.

[Bulldog9]

Thanks for doing this and documenting it. I hope to NEVER have to do this to any of my CARC bikes, but I'm learning as I watch along.

[drdwb]

Thanks for posting / documenting all your efforts. I too am hoping I never have to do this. It looks a lot more involved than crabbing the frame on the Californias to replace clutch plates. Certainly more than a dozen beers.

[theoneandonlymin]

Thanks for doing this and documenting it. I hope to NEVER have to do this to any of my CARC bikes, but I'm learning as I watch along.

From both Stelvio and Norge, once the clutch starts to get noisy it is time.
Really it appears a huge job but it isn't. I'm not a mechanic, just an idiot with time to spare.
I got my confidence from reading posts on Stelvio thread on ADV. So much help is available here and on ADV, thanks Pete, to make things go smoothly.  ish 😀

[theoneandonlymin]

Yes indeed, frame crabbing is a doddle. Can get to my G5's clutch in under two hours.

So, have done a few more hours this week. Quite a bit of time, well way too much time, is spent researching where to get small items from.
Square orings for the clutch slave for instance. Went for round after advice.
Dowty washers. Well, mine had perished and you end up going down a rabbit hole of suppliers. HEL seemed reputable enough so ordered from there.
The fibre gaskets for the exhaust. Possibly the Kawasaki fitment but Athena seem to do a range. That was last night's search unfortunately I hadn't measured my pipes before coming inside.
Exhaust studs were cheap enough from Guzzi.
Yesterday I gathered all my powdercoated parts up, ran a tap through the threads and realigned them with their bolts, springs washers etc.
So, I've a couple of days partying ahead and as soon as the Dowtys arrive I'll be throwing the engine back into the frame.

All is looking good on the bench.

Oh yeah, did you ever pay attention to the exhaust cylinder head clamp ? That is such a nice casting. Barly noticeable once the plastic is on.

[Frenchfrog]

My experience with the gaskets is that the old green ones are far superior to the more recent black ones.I wrongly assumed the reverse and used black throughout a rebuild , was plagued with seepage all over and then replaced successfully with the greens.Pete Roper and others confirmed that they had similar results too....

[theoneandonlymin]

Another afternoon spent piecing it together. Then taking it apart. Then bolting it back up again
.  If you've done it you'll know, if you don't, the collector box is the first part of the jigsaw. Not the centre stand.

[Huzo]

Great…!
I’ll use this as the definitive document if I ever have to do mine…

[Bulldog9]

Another afternoon spent piecing it together. Then taking it apart. Then bolting it back up again
.  If you've done it you'll know, if you don't, the collector box is the first part of the jigsaw. Not the centre stand.

NFN, if you have it apart and havent put in the CAT eliminator, now is a great time. It is a bear to get in and out, but if it's apart, is much easier. Improves engine flow, quicker to rev, a little louder, and much less heat down by your feet. You can get it from:

AF1 Racing https://www.af1racing.com/AMCOMPNORGE8V-Agostini-Compensator-Eliminator-For-MG-Norge-8V
MG Cycle https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_95&products_id=5839


Guzzi Tech may have it as well. A new map will be beneficial, but if you run the stock exhaust, you can get away without it. But Guzzi Diag and a Beetle Map are around $100.

Project looks great! Thanks for keeping us updated.

[Pescatore]

I get the impression this is a 1st gen Norge.
Those links seem to be for an 8V Norge.

[theoneandonlymin]

No, it's a 2011 8V GT.

I'll be keeping the collector box as I've just bought a 2nd hand one as the original had rotted in a few places and something was loose inside.
Mr Roper suggests not messing with the exhaust as they run better standard.
I've a Beetle mapped 08 Stelvio with GPR silencer. Which runs pretty smooth and fast.
The NorgeGT is comparable in feel and pickup and 50+ imperisl mpg. So it may have a map.
Makes speed in a stealthy kind of way.

[paulbricey]

From both Stelvio and Norge, once the clutch starts to get noisy it is time

What type of noise Min ?. I'm riding an 09 Griso 8V 45K miles and the clutch has been noisy on that for ages - but only when I pull the clutch in and coast a bit, sounds like a mild clacking noise & I always thought it could be idler shaft or (similar to your Stelvio) could be bits of spring etc hitting casing. 

I feel like it's just a matter of time before I need investigate (which means a new clutch plate anyway while I'm in there). Paul