1975 850T Survivor Project

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I've found that if the steering stop is knocked off, then there's a good chance that the frame is bent. Find a surface that is as close to perfectly flat as possible, place the main frame (no lower rails or anything else attached) on it and see if the front engine mounts both touch or if one is up off the surface. Frame may rock side to side as well.

Removing the rear drive from the swingarm will not disturb any shimming - that is all inside the pinion carrier which should stay inside the rear drive housing.

If you're having the swingarm powdercoated, then all of the bearings (pivot and u-joint carrier) will need to be removed. The carrier bearing should be replaced anyway.

[cmice]

I've found that if the steering stop is knocked off, then there's a good chance that the frame is bent. Find a surface that is as close to perfectly flat as possible, place the main frame (no lower rails or anything else attached) on it and see if the front engine mounts both touch or if one is up off the surface. Frame may rock side to side as well.

Found a couple of flat spots and tried a few different orientations, feels pretty square to me.  If I do get wiggle it's less than 1mm or even less if I move it around to find a happy spot on the floor, so I'm going to call that the floor.

Removing the rear drive from the swingarm will not disturb any shimming - that is all inside the pinion carrier which should stay inside the rear drive housing.

If you're having the swingarm powdercoated, then all of the bearings (pivot and u-joint carrier) will need to be removed. The carrier bearing should be replaced anyway.

Ok, easy enough then - will do on the carrier bearing.  I was able to push the vin-plate rivets out from inside the steering neck and I didn't even lose any! 

Any other specific tips on dealing with the powder coater? They have done quite a few bikes so they know their way around - but sometimes overconfidence gets in the way (or unfamiliarity with Guzzis) and things that shouldn't be coated get buried.  I kinda don't want to take the steering head lock out (I do have the key), maybe that's a fools errand it should come out anyway?

[faffi]

Personally, I would never consider to strip a fully functional final drive unless you A) want to learn how they go together or B) want to be absolutely certain it is well within spec. Or both. I have never considered either A or B as the risk of doing something wrong is too great for comfort. For me. Plus, should one fail, they can be found cheap secondhand.

[cmice]

Personally, I would never consider to strip a fully functional final drive[...]

I've set pinion depths before on a Hewland mk9 - but it's not something I'm eager to do again.  Life is simply too short for that kindof nonsense.
 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Any other specific tips on dealing with the powder coater? They have done quite a few bikes so they know their way around - but sometimes overconfidence gets in the way (or unfamiliarity with Guzzis) and things that shouldn't be coated get buried.  I kinda don't want to take the steering head lock out (I do have the key), maybe that's a fools errand it should come out anyway?

The steering lock comes out easily, so for me it's a "no brainer" on removing it. You either use a thin blade of some sort to pry under the cover near the rivet, or sometimes tap it loose with a long drift (it you can find a good angle). Then use the key to remove the lock.

I ask the powdercoater to tape over where the lock cover, steering head and swingarm pivot bearings go, the front and rear of the driveshaft tunnel and point out where all of the threaded holes are in hopes that they'll plug them.

Personally, I would never consider to strip a fully functional final drive unless you A) want to learn how they go together or B) want to be absolutely certain it is well within spec. Or both. I have never considered either A or B as the risk of doing something wrong is too great for comfort. For me. Plus, should one fail, they can be found cheap secondhand.

Rear drives aren't rocket science if you're just going in to replace the seals. It's always nice for gear lube to stay inside, fresh seals are a way of helping to insure that. As long as one uses the same number of gaskets (normally 2 - one on either side of the large shim), there not much of a chance of messing things up. There's no seals in the pinion carrier assembly, so no need to disassemble that. "Cheap secondhand"  Maybe for Hondas and Yamahas, but not a good one for an 850-T - expect to pay $400 and up. 

[cmice]

Steering stop repaired - no judgement on my welding skills.



The steering lock came out pretty easy as Charlie pointed out; with the key, it's no problem.

I got the retaining clip out of the carrier bearing, but it won't budge with fairly assertive use of hand-tools.  Do I need to press this out from the back side?  And how best to get the bearing shells out of the swingarm itself?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I got the retaining clip out of the carrier bearing, but it won't budge with fairly assertive use of hand-tools.  Do I need to press this out from the back side?  And how best to get the bearing shells out of the swingarm itself?

A blind hole bearing puller set really comes in handy here.




I install one of the collets into the carrier bearing so that I have something to drive against with a long steel bar and hammer from the back side.

The kit slide hammer and largest collet will remove the pivot bearing outer races as well. Some mechanics prefer to run a bead of weld around the inside of the race, which shrinks it when cooled, allowing it to be removed easily.