Installing triple trees

[Dirk_S]

Swapping out my V9’s triples for a set from a V7. I’ve never removed or installed triple trees before, though I’ve read and watched some videos that explain adjustment. Curious—resources all say to pack the bearings with grease. When I look at these bearings (angular contact style, perhaps?), sure there’s grease on them, but they’re not as globbed up as I’ve seen done to other wheel bearings and steering bearings. Does this style require it? Maybe all the grease I’m expecting has flown off?

Also, aside from the outer races that are already pressed in to their respective triples, do I need to do any sort of pressing when installing and tightening everything down?

Finally, to tighten up the lower ring nut, Guzzi calls for a special tool. Can I get by with using a steering stem / shock wrench and feel? The specific torque measurement is 50 +/- 5 Nm.

Closeup pic of the bearings on the triples:


Closeup shot on the style of bearings:


Screenshots from the service manual’s section on steering bearing adjustment:

[n3303j]

Not sure of that bearing stack setup as I'm not used to seeing one that complex.

But fill the assembly full of grease. It's low speed and limited movement so no worry of overheating. Sealing is usually poorly done in this area. It is seldom disassembled for routine maintenance. Headset bearings usually fail due to corrosion. Filling the system full of grease helps keep the water and dirt out. It will ooze some but that can be wiped away as it occurs.

[n3303j]

Read through the included instructions. It makes sense. The only thing I'm uncomfortable with is preloading the radial thrust ball bearings to 36 ft/lb preload. That's over a 2,000 pound preload! The torque specs are published by the same people who call for 108 ft/lb on my rear axle on the T3. Twenty five foot pounds will keep the bearing stack securely in position and can be undone roadside with the toolkit provided.
BMW published a torque spec on the tapered roller (radial thrust) bearings in the swingarm of their K100RS. That number was around 3 ft/lb. That was enough to set proper preload on a heavily stressed bearing.

But! Is there a spacer between the two inner races that is establishing the distance between them? Are the bearings being clamped against this spacer by the ring nut? In turn is the ring nut holding the whole bearing stack against the lower triple tree bracket. If this is indeed so then the 36 ft/lbs makes sense. Then, without fancy tools, you could just crank it all down firmly and be close enough to perfect.

[faffi]

Personally, I would replace the ball bearings with tapered ones, since they live much longer and are more robust. Under no circumstance, other than in an emergency, would I mix races from two different bearings - I always replace bearings as a complete set.

When I have installed new bearings, I have tightened the stem until there is noticeable drag, then backed them out so that the fork/handlebars will turn freely to the stop in either direction with a gentle nudge from center position, but without any slack when yanking back and forth down at the wheel axle.

[Dirk_S]

Parts fiche attached for reference.



I tightened up everything, but haven’t installed the forks, so when I rotate the triples to check for tightness, the new grease keeps the movement from feeling as free as I’d hoped. Perhaps I need to install the forks and wheel to get a good feel?

[n3303j]

Wait until the grease thaws out! :wink

Meanwhile I see no intermediate spacer between the inner bearing races. So the lower ring nut establishes preload and the upper keeps the lower in place. So setting is conventional. Snug lower ring to eliminate any play under load but maintain freedom of movement (not 30+ ft/lb). Note, when you tighten the upper clamping ring it will take up all thrust play in the threads of the lower ring and tighten the bearing clearance. So steering freedom has to be checked with both rings set in their final relationship.

The previous recommendation of tapered roller bearings is a sound choice if they are available for this application. They have a much higher load bearing capacity than the balls. Greater bearing area and 100% contact with both races all of the time.

[guzzisteve]

Put your forks on & wheel on axle. If you have it correct when wheel is centered you move it each way L & R the wheel will drop at around 15* from center each way. The ball bearing set up is junk in my opinion, go with tapered roller bearings from a Western maker.
I don't preload , just snug up till proper drop happens & tighten lock ring.

[Moparnut72]

"When I have installed new bearings, I have tightened the stem until there is noticeable drag, then backed them out so that the fork/handlebars will turn freely to the stop in either direction with a gentle nudge from center position, but without any slack when yanking back and forth down at the wheel axle."

This is almost word by word from a Harley manual. This is what I do. My Audace was notchy from day one. The nut was way too tight. I set it up this way and all was good. Ignore that torque figure. I think in my case maybe the manual writer meant the lock nut but it wasn't written that way.
kk

[jhem68]

I would like to see a little more follow up from this related thread:
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=119054.0

I think if I were to get to needing a service on my 2018 V7 III steering stem bearing I would do the conversion IF I could get a reference to a decent replacement bearing. I think several members have had issues with the newer series V7 bearings due to minimal grease or corrosion.


John H

[guzzisteve]

I did your research Pt# 2B011121 is 35x55x14.5 mm no taper roller that size, there is 35x55x14 mm

You could have done the same search, call AF1 and see if measurements are correct or measure your own

AI gave me the dimensions could be wrong also, I don't own a smallblock

You could use a 1/2mm shim under bearing, try finding that.

Headstock changed in 2017 w/V7III

[n3303j]

Check "This Old Tractor" or "Guzziology". They might list a replacement.
.5mm shims are easy work with a Dremel tool and a belt sander. I do all my shims out of a pack of assorted 6" X 12" shim stock. Easier than trying to stock every shim needed for a Guzzi final drive.

[guzzisteve]

AI  if you just gave me different sizes, I DON'T CARE, isn't my bike. I don't own one. Isn't to hard to figure out.

[Dirk_S]

AI  if you just gave me different sizes, I DON'T CARE, isn't my bike. I don't own one. Isn't to hard to figure out.

Steve, sometimes you remind me of Batty from Fern Gully. I mean that lovingly.

[cappisj1]

Roller bearings have been used for years and are just fine for our Guzzi’s. Do the procedure like Moparnut72 suggested. Just know that too free of a swing from center to the steering stop may start you on a path to a head shake at speed. You want a slow swing to the stops with everything mounted up.

[Dirk_S]

Good to hear I don’t have to buy a special tool. Thanks all!