1985 Cal2 clutch lever adjustment at gearbox

[Gusable]

So I bought this lovely 1985 California two from our member Kevin M here and he told me before I got it that the clutch friction zone activates the clutch or engages kind of far out on the lever. He never got any clutch slippage, so I get the bike and verified what he said it runs fine but you notice it most in first year when you’re taking off that it really goes almost all the way out before the bike takes off. He was in a physical condition where he can’t get under there and mess with it so here I am on my lift, trying to adjust the gearbox at the back and the cable adjustment on the side. Here’s some photos of the lever on the gearbox at its normal rest position and with all the slack taken out of it, is that where I wanna be with all the slack taken out?

[Gusable]

Also, when I push it forward and take it all the slack out of it, it hits a stop, you know and at that point I have to use a screwdriver to push it further in and push the pressure plate

[Tom H]

The take up the slack is due to a spring between the lever and the trans end cover. One that is taken up, your trying to push open the clutch plates. Yes a lever of some sort would be needed to go farther.

The lever looks a bit too far forward with the slack taken up with your finger. Not much, maybe 1/8-1/4" at the tip of the lever where the cable attaches. As long as the lever does not hit the trans case when you pull the clutch hand lever, you should be fine.

Now...If you were having an issue where when you let out the hand clutch lever and it goes almost all the way out before you start moving. The normal likely culprit is that you need a bit more slack in the cable. For now, just use the adjusters on the cable and leave the trans clutch lever adjuster alone, again unless the trans lever is hitting the trans case.

I set the adjusters so that when you move the hand lever it will move a small bit before you feel it trying to open the clutch plates. The more slack in the cable, the closer to the hand grip the bike will start moving, but could cause harder shifting.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[pehayes]

Title of the thread sounds like you are considering adjustment within the transmission lever itself.
There are three adjustments to the clutch.  One at the hand lever, one at the transmission end of the cable, and the last within the transmission lever near its pivot.
Be careful with the one within the transmission lever.  Due to lever angles, that adjustment is probably five or six times more dramatic than the other two.  The adjustment within the transmission lever is usually not more than 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  That has a significant, multiplied effect on the position of the slotted fork at the outer end of the lever.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Gusable]

So it sounds like I should leave small screw on gearbox lever alone at this point.  Yes.. the issue I’m having is. You’re at a stop light in gear. Light turns green you let out the hand lever on the clutch and it goes wayyy out before clutch then grabs and bike moves. When the clutch bites it bites good! No slip. I just wanna move that friction zone closer to the handlebar.

[Tom H]

Then screw the cable adjuster in at the hand lever.

The hand lever should have a bit of slack before you start to feel it try to open the clutch.

Tom

[Gusable]

So I got home and I just basically took 97% of the slack out of the gearbox lever via the side adjustment and then set the handlebar at 4 mm and went and test drove it and the friction zone engages in about 2/3 stroke out. Probably where it needs to be. There is some play down on the side so nothing is “too tight”. I need to learn how to drive it.  1st gear leaving a light is VERY grabby when it does engage. Rest of the drive is perfect. 2-3/3-4/4-5 etc. easy neutral finding too. So I guess I’m good. We think the bike might have had a clutch at some point so who knows what’s in there   Thanks so much!!!