Rear brake pedal movement

[MikeP996]

I recently installed a set of organic pads to replace the sintered (moto guzzi-labeled) pads that provided nearly no stopping power in the rear.  The organics provided noticeable improvement BUT the pedal still requires too much movement before anything happens.  I have to move my foot forward in order to apply any serious pressure/stopping power.  I CAN now activate the ABS, which I couldn't with the sintered pads but it requires a heavy duty foot-rearrange/pressure on the lever.

The pedal is firm ONCE it gets to the point where it applying the pads to the rotor but regardless of the available pedal adjustment, it is too much movement for good feel.  It doesn't feel as if it needs bleeding though I guess I'll give that a try - unbolt the caliper, turn it so the bleed is at the top.  Interestingly, the service manual shows bleeding the rear with the caliper mounted/bleed at the bottom.  ;)  I guess that would work with a pressure bleeder/syringe feeding from the caliper but the pic in the manual doesn't show a pressure bleeder/ syringe.

Only other thing I can think of that might help would be a much larger diameter "rubber" on the pedal...

[faffi]

If you pump the brake pedal a few times and it engages sooner, you have a little air in the system. If the pedal always gets firm at the same point, no air. You can adjust the height of the pedal, though, which may allow you a good compromise between where it rests and where it engages.

Not sure which master cylinder you have, but these are the two I have come across myself and how to adjust them: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=111131.msg1886133#msg1886133

[MikeP996]

Thanks!  I had previous adjusted the lever to the max height; I'll try the bleeding...

[faffi]

FWIW, the pedal on my V9 offer a fairly short travel. I wanted to lower mine, but since I was unable to figure out how to adjust the brake switch, I had to retain it in a for me slightly too high position.

[Kev m]

I recently installed a set of organic pads to replace the sintered (moto guzzi-labeled) pads that provided nearly no stopping power in the rear.  The organics provided noticeable improvement BUT the pedal still requires too much movement before anything happens.  I have to move my foot forward in order to apply any serious pressure/stopping power.  I CAN now activate the ABS, which I couldn't with the sintered pads but it requires a heavy duty foot-rearrange/pressure on the lever.

The pedal is firm ONCE it gets to the point where it applying the pads to the rotor but regardless of the available pedal adjustment, it is too much movement for good feel.  It doesn't feel as if it needs bleeding though I guess I'll give that a try - unbolt the caliper, turn it so the bleed is at the top.  Interestingly, the service manual shows bleeding the rear with the caliper mounted/bleed at the bottom.  ;)  I guess that would work with a pressure bleeder/syringe feeding from the caliper but the pic in the manual doesn't show a pressure bleeder/ syringe.

Only other thing I can think of that might help would be a much larger diameter "rubber" on the pedal...

I just bled my poorly functioning rear brake using my IcarSoft scan tool to actuate the ABS module. I believe I managed to flush the system with fresh fluid but pedal action remains the same with too much travel and poor stopping power.

I THINK the pedal isn't spongy, but I'm getting close to the end of travel so I'm not sure.

I think I will try playing with the pushrod linkage to see if that helps move the engagement point sooner and get a better idea if the pedal is spongy or not.

I will say bleeding was even more inconvenient than usual, having to unbolt the caliper and brake line from the swing arm, unclip the speed sensor wire, then feed the caliper between the swing arm and tire on the right side without kinking the brake line. I wound up using wire ties to hold a pinned spanner (for suspension adjustment) between the pads and to hold the caliper to the passenger peg support with the bleed valve facing upwards while I bled, but it was still a two person job and my vacuum pump was useless.

[Vagrant]

The way Kev did it is the only way that works. Guzzi Steve and I tried a bunch of times to use his electrical bleeder on my 17 v7III while in the normal position and it failed to work.

[n3303j]

In general the fluid does not start moving until the master cylinder piston has moved past the the hole in the bottom of the reservoir. Conversely fluid pressure does not release until the master cylinder piston is outboard of that hole. There should be some sort of pedal linkage adjustment that guarantees the piston starts (and ends) its stroke just outboard of the reservoir to cylinder connection. Any extra distance outboard of that hole is just excess lever travel. Anything short of opening that hole at brake release guarantees a locked up caliper.