Unobtanium? Breva 1100 airbox-to-throttle bodies boots

[jfear]

Pretty self explanatory: Acquired an engine-less Breva, sourced a mill and have it in-frame and digging through the parts box find that the boots are junk.

I had mopes that Mistral or the like made something what would eliminate the boot altogether, but no.

Has anyone fabbed their own? I wonder if I could dimension one and print out of TPE....

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

It may be possible to have reproductions made by Clauss Studios. I needed a NLA airbox-to-frame boot for a Cagiva Elefant a few years back, sent it to Greg Clauss and he reproduced it. https://www.claussstudios.com/index.html

Maybe check with Hamlin Cycles?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Complete airbox with boots for $80 + $30 shipping: https://www.ebay.com/itm/406606438547

Airbox w/boots and throttle bodies for $218: https://www.ebay.com/itm/336543843415

[jfear]

Complete airbox with boots for $80 + $30 shipping: https://www.ebay.com/itm/406606438547

Airbox w/boots and throttle bodies for $218: https://www.ebay.com/itm/336543843415

Ogling those for a bit, it's just that I'll have three airboxes in various states if I pull the trigger 

May have to happen, tho

[Ed / AF1 Racing]

was part # GU05114430 Intake hose, may help in search, it is NLA

The rubber TB to engine head one is still available, GU01114390 Hose

[Chuck in Indiana]

Ogling those for a bit, it's just that I'll have three airboxes in various states if I pull the trigger 

May have to happen, tho

So your problem is? <scratching head> It's an old low production motorcycle. When you see something you think you might need, it's time to pull the trigger. If you don't, it will be gone soon.

[ridingron]

Ogling those for a bit, it's just that I'll have three airboxes in various states if I pull the trigger 

May have to happen, tho

Maybe you'll own 3 in various states to get the tubes.

Maybe try to sell the air boxes to help pay for the purchase of number 3?

[jfear]

So your problem is? <scratching head> It's an old low production motorcycle. When you see something you think you might need, it's time to pull the trigger. If you don't, it will be gone soon.

Moola and wishful thinking, in addition to fam issues taking my focus off the ball.

The yujje

[jfear]

was part # GU05114430 Intake hose, may help in search, it is NLA

The rubber TB to engine head one is still available, GU01114390 Hose

Yup, cheers!
 

[Perazzimx14]

So your problem is? <scratching head> It's an old low production motorcycle. When you see something you think you might need, it's time to pull the trigger. If you don't, it will be gone soon.

Old low production model motorcycle is a double edge sword. There is also the possibility of the parts not selling because nobody needs them. I had a ton of V50 parts that I tried to sell then tried to give away and then toss in the recycle bin because there was no market for them. Old and/or rare do not equate to interest or value.

[jfear]

Pulled the trigger - thanks all!

[jfear]

I pulled the rigger on that airbox, good experience with the seller (it's where I got the motor for this Breva), but while installing the airbox yesterday and trying to nudge the tube slot onto the airbox a crack appeared on the tube itself: they are rotted too.

Crazy idea but hear me out: a shrink-tube sleeve over the intake tube itself to try and seal/reinforce the thing?

I realize this is in deepest left field but since the GU05114430 is discontinued and pod filters are verboten....I'm trying to think outside of all the boxes

[Bulldog9]

So your problem is? <scratching head> It's an old low production motorcycle. When you see something you think you might need, it's time to pull the trigger. If you don't, it will be gone soon.

Of course if you buy it you'll never need it lol.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I pulled the rigger on that airbox, good experience with the seller (it's where I got the motor for this Breva), but while installing the airbox yesterday and trying to nudge the tube slot onto the airbox a crack appeared on the tube itself: they are rotted too.

Crazy idea but hear me out: a shrink-tube sleeve over the intake tube itself to try and seal/reinforce the thing?

I realize this is in deepest left field but since the GU05114430 is discontinued and pod filters are verboten....I'm trying to think outside of all the boxes

Because of the ridges, heat-shrink is unlikely to seal it, but may reinforce it.

Do you have a cracked one to send to Clauss Studios to be reproduced? If you don't want to deal with it, send one to me and I'll have it done.

[Huzo]

You obviously know your way around the Breva/Norge pretty well so this may be unnecessary to point out, but the ducts do not need to be removed for removal/replacement of the throttle bodies.
Mine have never been detached from the ‘box.
If the ducts are warm and the airbox is displaced as far as practicable to the rear, the TB’s will wiggle in between quite ok upon refitment.
This is probably not news to you.

[jfear]

You obviously know your way around the Breva/Norge pretty well so this may be unnecessary to point out, but the ducts do not need to be removed for removal/replacement of the throttle bodies.
Mine have never been detached from the ‘box.
If the ducts are warm and the airbox is displaced as far as practicable to the rear, the TB’s will wiggle in between quite ok upon refitment.
This is probably not news to you.

I could see that while fiddling things around but the crack became evident regardless. I'll have to do the Clauss thing methinks! Do they simply make molds of the OG part and recast? I may be able to that myself, though it would be nice to have a pro handle it.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I could see that while fiddling things around but the crack became evident regardless. I'll have to do the Clauss thing methinks! Do they simply make molds of the OG part and recast? I may be able to that myself, though it would be nice to have a pro handle it.

Yes, Greg uses the original part to make the mold. The Cagiva Elefant airbox-to-frame boot I sent had cracks in it and the new part had lines exactly where the cracks were and the Cagiva logo.

If you make some for yourself, then there won't be a source for anyone else needing them (unless you can make more). If Greg Clauss makes them, then they'll be available for everyone.

[jcctx]

Just thinking~ were it mine I would spray the old one with some of that "magic" sealer they advertise on TV???????

[Bulldog9]

We had a similar problem with the carb to head boots on our XS1100s cracking back in the 90s and early 2000s.

After cleaning well, I used high heat black RTV and gave them a good coating with a firm brush. Lasted 20 years and still working with minimal peeling. I imagine the same would be true for the TB to airbox boots.

Eventually I found a set and have them in a box for 'someday'

[jfear]

Yes, Greg uses the original part to make the mold. The Cagiva Elefant airbox-to-frame boot I sent had cracks in it and the new part had lines exactly where the cracks were and the Cagiva logo.

If you make some for yourself, then there won't be a source for anyone else needing them (unless you can make more). If Greg Clauss makes them, then they'll be available for everyone.

Well said.

Those of you with experience with Clauss: what's the general price and turnaround time?

[theoneandonlymin]

Would self amalgamating tape work ?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Well said.

Those of you with experience with Clauss: what's the general price and turnaround time?

When I had the Cagiva boot made, he gave me one for free, for sending him the sample. That was at least 10 years ago, so I don't remember exactly how long it took, maybe two weeks at most. Contact Greg for more information.

[jfear]

When I had the Cagiva boot made, he gave me one for free, for sending him the sample. That was at least 10 years ago, so I don't remember exactly how long it took, maybe two weeks at most. Contact Greg for more information.

Emailed him yesterday so I'm crossing my digits.

Last night discovered that the 02 sensor was for the dynojet the PO had installed( the dynojet modules became rat food).

Time to hunt one (stock or another lambda-massager) down!

[nadab_sardar]

Glad you're getting the Clauss thing going, that's probably the best route for the boots since it'll leave a source for the next guy too.

On the O2 sensor, if the Dynojet modules are gone and you're going back to stock, it's worth checking whether the PO left the stock ECU and harness intact before you buy anything. The sensor is cheap compared to chasing a mapping problem later. Once it's all together, make sure the sensor is actually reading properly, because a dead or contaminated one will have the ECU running oddly, and that gets blamed on everything else first.

Good luck with it, sounds like a fun rescue project.

[jfear]

Glad you're getting the Clauss thing going, that's probably the best route for the boots since it'll leave a source for the next guy too.

On the O2 sensor, if the Dynojet modules are gone and you're going back to stock, it's worth checking whether the PO left the stock ECU and harness intact before you buy anything. The sensor is cheap compared to chasing a mapping problem later. Once it's all together, make sure the sensor is actually reading properly, because a dead or contaminated one will have the ECU running oddly, and that gets blamed on everything else first.

Good luck with it, sounds like a fun rescue project.

The OG wire harness was a modified, broken and chewed extensively by packrats. most of the wires from the dynojet units were chewed down to the rubber boots to the module. Seriously - WTF is it about wires that rodents and lagomorphs can't get enough of? 

Still waiting to hear from Clauss but yeah, having a source for the next inmate will be nice, if we can get it going.