Lario rehab project begins. What we've learned..

[kevdog3019]

I know Chuck, just yankin' your chain. You're retired and futsen with bikes and planes. Is there anything better?  Enjoy yourself.
Kevin

[Chuck in Indiana]

Zaino....... You're using the good stuff.  Save some for the daily drivers!   ;-T 

Zaino rox. I had some on my Red MINI for two years that was still beading water. ;-T Not cheap (Guzzi content) or particularly easy to use.

[kevdog3019]

Zaino rox. I had some on my Red MINI for two years that was still beading water. ;-T Not cheap (Guzzi content) or particularly easy to use.

I've got to ask.  How do you apply? Buffer or by hand?
K

[Chuck in Indiana]

I've got to ask.  How do you apply? Buffer or by hand?
K

First, you wash everything with Dawn to get old wax, etc off. Second, clay bar with Dawn/water. Third, mix the first coat's hardener in and apply that. Windows, and all. Doesn't matter if you get it on rubber or places you normally try to keep wax off. Forth, mix the second coat's hardener and apply. Same deal. No swirling motion on any of this stuff. Then apply the gloss enhancer. It'll take all afternoon to do a car.. ;D busting your buns. It gives a deep "wet" look.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Here's the steel sleeve installed. Will it work? Hope I don't have to find out. ;D

It's still too cold to bring my temporary paint booth up to temperature, so I thought I'd do some other stuff. Remember the master cylinder that needed rebuilt? Opened the package of the rebuild kit, and the instructions were worse than bad. Bad would have been a poor translation. It's in about 20 languages, and is for another cylinder.  ::) I did a search here on WG, and found Charilie's instructions, which I'll repeat here, in case someone finds this thread with a search.

The seal fits into the metal securing ring, tapered edge pointed towards the outside. Put the seal into the metal ring first (ring goes with the largest o.d. outwards), slip the washer onto the piston, then the seal/ring assy. Use a deep-well socket (I used a 14mm) to seat the ring into the master cylinder body.

I'll add some pix to illustrate..
The new piston comes assembled with just the dust seal and a washer to be put on one end, and the spring and spring retainer on the other. Slide the washer on here..

Shouldn't have used the flash, but you can see how Charlie's instructions work. Just assemble it like he said..

And here it is ready to be installed into the cylinder. Put *some* of the included spooge on the rubber rings for lubrication. No need to make a mess.. ;)

Slide it into the bore, and stake it with the special Guzzi Tool, a 14mm deep well socket.

Easy as pie. You can see where the dust seal is staked here.

Ok, bask in the warm feeling of another job well done  ;D and throw it on the done pile, too.
Time for some more grunt work. Might as well get some of the other parts cleaned up and ready for paint. I picked up a couple of rear pegs off the bay, and I can make two good ones out of the 4 I have, now. The starter has had battery acid dribbling on it, and needs some paint. The battery tray has the usual rust for the same reason.

Decided to bead blast and chromate the battery tray..

Warmed up the paint booth to about 50, carried it in, and zinc chromated it. This stuff is what is used to keep airplane tubing from rusting, and the old Guzzi racers used it, too. Naturally, I love this color.  ;D Just because it comes out of a rattle can, don't even **think** of spraying it without a respirator. Trust me on this. Gave it a couple of quick coats, and brought it back in the shop to dry at 68 degrees.

Covered a couple of pieces of plywood with masking paper, and used red Scotch brite to finish prepping the tail piece and frame rail. Notice how the valve covers changed color in the dishwasher?  ;D Wonder what's up with that? Probably one of those things that's not meant to be understood...

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I took a valve cover in to the auto paint place, and found this for $5 a can. I bought two.. ;D Supposedly good to 500 degrees, and a really close match.

That looks like the shade I need for the "Austrian Rock Crusher" (Rotax engine) in my CCM. Mind sharing what the label on the cans says?

[Chuck in Indiana]

That looks like the shade I need for the "Austrian Rock Crusher" (Rotax engine) in my CCM. Mind sharing what the label on the cans says?

Sure can, Charlie.. DE1650 Cast coat aluminum. Bear in mind that it turned out darker than the can lid. There are pix earlier on in this thread that show a pretty representative color. When I was in town this week, looking for their hi temp primer to do the valve covers, I saw a "Metallic" in about this color. If I'd seen it before, I probably would have tried that.. it might be lighter.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Sure can, Charlie.. DE1650 Cast coat aluminum. Bear in mind that it turned out darker than the can lid. There are pix earlier on in this thread that show a pretty representative color. When I was in town this week, looking for their hi temp primer to do the valve covers, I saw a "Metallic" in about this color. If I'd seen it before, I probably would have tried that.. it might be lighter.

Thanks! I might buy a can of each, shoot a sample piece and see which matches best.  ;-T

[Morizzi]

Kevin.. there would be some development involved to make sure that one size would fit all. I made this one to the dimensions Morizi gave me, and it was too big in diameter. Once you cut if off the blank, there's no way that you can make it smaller.. you have to make another. Why didn't it fit? Dunno. According to how much was sticking out, I'd guess it needs to be .012/.013" smaller in diameter. Differences in paint thickness? Wear on the mold? Maybe different molds? Dunno again. Besides that.. I'm *not* looking for work. ;D

Sorry Chuck,

Should have mentioned that the sleeve measurements fitted one bike Ok and was too tight for the other. I must admit I put it down to machining variances on the sleeves at the time. I had them made as I don't have a lathe.

It was that long ago I can't even remember which one fitted easily and which one didn't. I have an 81 and an 89.

I did try and make them 'tight.'  :o I've seen a few gearbox casings that have suffered a failure.  There isn't a whole lot of spare room in the output port around the U-joint and so to optimise the wall thickness I squeezed in as much as I could. The easiest thing to do is to make them just a bit loose I guess and use something like RTV silicone to hold them in place. The front of the taper would be pretty thin.

Glad its in there.

Rod

Still, you got it in and as you state, hopefully it will be a complete waste of time.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I have an 81 and an 89.

Ahhh, that explains it. No doubt, the 81 was the one it fit. As a mold is polished when serviced, the core half will get smaller over time. I tried to measure, of course, but it's difficult to get an accurate measurement up at the small end. It tapers at a faster rate in the last 1/4" or so. I should have gone with my gut feeling, but was just lazy.  ;D :BEER:

[kevdog3019]

This is one hot thread!  Open brain... insert knowledge.  ;-T
Thanks again Chuck.
-Kevin

[Chuck in Indiana]

Thanks, Kevin.. ;D
The way to get a project done is to do *something* every day. Brought out the rattle can..

A rattle can is capable of doing a perfectly adequate job, if the job isn't too big.  ;D

Black stuff on the done pile..

Got the red pieces primed, but ran out of time to paint them. I'm not making work out of this... they'll wait until it warms up again.

Decided to play a little today. I'm tired of cleaning, etc. so torqued the heads for the last time, 30 ft. lbs. on the big nuts and 25 on the small. Adjusted the valves, and the engine should be ready.

[IceBlue]

Waiting to hear you describe that first roar  ;-T  Looking real good ;-T

[huub]

your lario is going to be way too pretty to ride :D

anybody tried porting lario heads?
just came across nice pictures of ported lario heads with 36 and even38 mm ports on a german forum.
bigger carbs sounds like a good idea, i was thinking of a pair of 32 mmPHF's for my lario.  36 mm might be a bit overdone?

just took the valve covers off my lario, it has single valve springs but no lash caps.
so probably has got some of the factory mods
( it should , it is unlikely to have lasted 59.000 kmin stock form.)
removing the valve cover was easy , half the bolt holes had absolutel no thread left.
the covers were basically glued in place  :-[

[IceBlue]

Stripped threads for the valve cover bolts are common.
You need to time sert them or similar. Be carefull NOT to drill through to the next cooling fin - then you'll have an oil leak issue  :o

Both the Nevada and other progressive springs are single wire - so are the stock spring  :o Assessment is needed  ;D
I assume you know how to make a valve mod for normal riding - cam skaft needs a check too  ;)


...or you could pull a Kevin and go for the race version with DLC cams/tappets - Kipple W. valves - new con rods, the works - caution - the front wheel will not stay down  8)

[kevdog3019]

Stripped threads for the valve cover bolts are common.
You need to time sert them or similar. Be carefull NOT to drill through to the next cooling fin - then you'll have an oil leak issue  :o

/quote]

Hmmm... hate how the shop did that when Heli-coiling mine.  >:(

[Chuck in Indiana]

your lario is going to be way too pretty to ride Cheesy

Thanks, but believe me.. it'll be *plenty* rough enough to ride.  ;D

[Tobit]

This is great.  Excellent idea and execution on the U-joint shield.  About the rocker covers changing color in the dishwasher, I tried Naval Jelly on my Monza covers once and they turned black when rinsed off with a hose. 

Tobit.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Waiting to hear you describe that first roar  ;-T  Looking real good ;-T

Well, it's bound to run, Brian.. all the parts are in it..  ;D Millennium's break in instructions are weird, though. They say let it idle for 15 minutes on initial start up.. :o I'm going to have to think about that.  I have two box fans, but wonder if that is enough?

[kevdog3019]

Well, it's bound to run, Brian.. all the parts are in it..  ;D Millennium's break in instructions are weird, though. They say let it idle for 15 minutes on initial start up.. :o I'm going to have to think about that.  I have two box fans, but wonder if that is enough?

Good time to do that now with the fans on high.  How well-done does it need to be??  Maybe a water-cooled bike.
-K

[IceBlue]

Well, it's bound to run, Brian.. all the parts are in it..  ;D Millennium's break in instructions are weird, though. They say let it idle for 15 minutes on initial start up.. :o I'm going to have to think about that.  I have two box fans, but wonder if that is enough?

Chuck
Did you remember the stem caps on the valves?
You are using the short clearense adjustment screws it seems from the pic, right?

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chuck
Did you remember the stem caps on the valves?
You are using the short clearense adjustment screws it seems from the pic, right?

Lash caps, yes. These are the screws that were on it. They seem ok to me. (?)

[Chuck in Indiana]

Well, today is the big day to paint the red. What could possibly go wrong? After all, I'm using a paint system that I've never used, and a gun that I've never used, either.  ;D ;D
Wiped down the tailpiece with my grease and wax remover, and it wasn't compatible with the primer. :o Yuck, what a mess. Ran to town and got a different primer. Sanded, primed, sanded, primed, etc. waiting 30 minutes between doing all this. Spent a good part of the day..
This is the first time that I've had this problem, but I'm a rookie painter. It's worked with all the aircraft coatings I've used. <shrug>

While I was at the paint store, I bought a new roll of 2" masking tape..$10  :o ;D Masked off the Guzzi, put up a piece of poster board on the paint booth wall, practiced a bit, and did the valve cover.

Seemed simple enough, brought the tailpiece and frame rail in, and shot that.

Unfortunately, it turned out freakin gorgeous, and the rest of the bodywork will look pale in comparison.. ;D

Almost broke my arm patting myself on the back for a job well done, but you know what they say about pride coming before a fall? ;D After the red was dust free, I took that stuff out to the (warm) shop to cure and brought in the valve covers to paint the silver. Remember when I said you would have to be careful with this paint or it would run right off onto the floor? I'd sprayed the 2 light coats, and when I started to spray the final one, I saw a sag.  ::) It has been getting colder all day, and I hadn't noticed that the paint booth had dropped under 60 degrees.
Nothing to do but wait for a week to sand it out and spray the last coat. At least, the red looks good, and I can start reassembly. ;-T

[balvenie]

That red is Luscious ;-T

[Chuck in Indiana]

That red is Luscious ;-T

Yeah, it is. I may have to enlist a *real* painter (my kid, Brad) and do the bodywork. It's a slippery slope when you start painting stuff.  ;D

[balvenie]

Don't I know it :o It starts when you find some little thing to fix and before you know, it has multiplied in to a Project :'(

[IceBlue]

Lash caps, yes. These are the screws that were on it. They seem ok to me. (?)

They are  :)  Yamaha have some that will plug and play. The contact area is bigger, hense they may last longer, but that may be for a later upgrade  ;)

Part number is (Yamaha)         2NX-12159-00-00   8

Cheers

[Dick]

Great thread, Chuck! Thanks for sharing  ;-T

[Chuck in Indiana]

Great thread, Chuck! Thanks for sharing  ;-T

Thank you, Dick. I appreciate someone with your expertise looking in.

[Chuck in Indiana]

The moment of truth.  ;D I wanted to save the moto guzzi decal on the back of the tail piece, as I haven't found it. I looked for the complete set, but it is NLA, if it ever was..
At any rate, here we go.

The (experienced) lady that took over for the kid and his computer did a *nice* color match.. ;-T

Couldn't stand it, pulled the tape and carefully sanded with 400 paper wet..

Who makes that? ;D

Luigi had buffed them, so it isn't completely flat, I'll probably have to buff them, too. You can see some shading where the primer hasn't sanded off, yet. I'll have to be careful, or I'll be taking paint off the bumps that clear the valve train. It's getting to be the fun stuff, now. ;D