Best shocks for a softer ride on a bumpy V7 stone?

[rocker59]

I've never heard of shocks this bad. I've got an extra set of OEM Bonneville shocks, may try to see if those will work.

Hey, it's the internet!   :BEER:

My V7 Classic's shocks were arguably better than OEM Bonneville or Sportster.

They weren't horrible, but could've been better.

[rocker59]

Last weekend I put 1200 miles on my Stelvio NTX.  That suspension is a real joy and probably why I am pushing to sort out the V7.  Once you ride a good suspension system it spoils you for anything less.

Peter Y.

I don't think you'll ever get a classic twin shock rear suspension to perform anywhere close to a modern, long-travel mono-shock rear suspension.

Not without going several inches longer than stock, and spending lots of time and money tuning.

[jetmechmarty]

I've never heard of shocks this bad. I've got an extra set of OEM Bonneville shocks, may try to see if those will work.

The Bonneville is notorious for its substandard suspension.  OK, maybe not substandard.  How about price point suspension?

[CND]

Peter, I`ve been pondering the Matris fork kit (for the newer Kaifa forks):

http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=61597

Me too.

If anybody has installed these please post your review.

[Penderic]

I have a set of the rear OEM dampers and was wondering if anyone has yet disassembled them for inspection?

They look well made. But I know that they are over dampened - compared to my nice YSS dampeners that are on now.

If the stock dampeners could be re-filled with a lighter oil or increase the metering hole diameter, they would be good.

There are a lot of them out there.

Is there a graph that plots the standard characteristics of a shock absorber?
------
update: just found this graph: force vs piston speed .... hmmm


Now ....how to compare good settings for a given motorcycle and display the different shocks available.

[Scoops]

I have recently fitted a set of these, with the adjustable damping unit.

Look like good quality. The ride is still a bit 'squirrelly' when on a bumpy turn, but i've yet to set them up properly.....

http://www.tecbikeparts.com/Alloy_Gas_Shocks.html

[rocker59]

I have recently fitted a set of these, with the adjustable damping unit.

Look like good quality. The ride is still a bit 'squirrelly' when on a bumpy turn, but i've yet to set them up properly.....

http://www.tecbikeparts.com/Alloy_Gas_Shocks.html

Try increasing the rebound damping.

[kingoffleece]

Todd at GuziTech or Jim Hamlin at Hamlin Cycles in CT will get it done right.
I'll agree 100% that when a person has a suspension set up correct for their weight and adjusted for sag-freeplay-etc. it's a WORLD of difference.

I have never experienced a 'cheap" way out of price point manufacturing.  That said, riders all over the east coast send their stuff to Jim for his expertise in this area.  I not too keen on buying a new bike and putting 1000 into the suspension but that's what I do with all my bikes after having my Tiger 1050 transformed by Hamlin Cycles.  I know dozens of riders who say the same thing.  Look at it this way.  If you keep a bike 5 years it 200 a year to enjoy each and every ride.  Small change really.

Right is right and OEM price point shocks and forks are not right, or even close to it.  YMMV, as always.

[Irn]

I have a pair of Ikon 7610-1623 I'm taking off my Breva that I am having a hard time selling.  $275 shipped and the shocks are yours.  Paid $450.  The springs are black.

[Buckturgidson]

I don't think you'll ever get a classic twin shock rear suspension to perform anywhere close to a modern, long-travel mono-shock rear suspension.

Not without going several inches longer than stock, and spending lots of time and money tuning.

I have had two thoroughly enjoyable rides recently on a classic twin shock, an SRX-6. Way softer and fits a 30 hp bike. It handles great without spine jarring jolts. The V7 suspension suffers in comparison to a 29 year old bike and that is unfortunate for all of us who bought them. On the V7 I feel confident in the apex of a tight turn but the poor compliance really sucks.

[cwiseman]

I just put a set of cheaper Hagons from Dave Quinn on our V7. Great guy and for a shock set up for a desired weight and length the price of about $230.00 to the door was awesome. I've seen much more expensive complete kits (mentioned above) purchased and brought to my shop to be installed and was not impressed when I test rode the bike.

[drlapo]

+1 for Dave Quinn  he can set up the Hagons well for little $

[neverquit]

Dave Quinn is a great vendor and very patient.  I'm on my first set of Hagons, I ordered them because I wanted a softer  ride than the stock Sachs shocks.  This particular set of Hagons  don't yield much sag and on terrible roads nearly an inch of shock travel is still unused (I smear a little grease on the shock rod as an  indicator of how much it moves).  Dave said to send them back and he'll fit them with lighter springs.  He gave me the choice of sending back the entire shock or disassembling them and returning the springs only.  He also offered to mail a different end piece that minimizes pre-load on the spring.  I'm an older rider and want a soft ride to protect my back and I  appreciate the time Mr. Quinn has taken to produce the ride I want.  I will be returning the first set of springs for a softer set.

[11201ny]

wake up.

Anyone usr RaceTech Piggybacks or IFP? I have been told they are a solid upgrade.
I weigh 160lbs. I haven't adjusted my Ollie rear shocks at all, and feel like they're trying to eject me. Riding on Brooklyn's BQE is death defying. I also ride with my lady on the back, and the Ollies are still too much. Other than releasing some tension in the spring, what can i do?

[bpreynolds]

When I first got my Stone I thought all these exact same things; yet, now after about 3200 miles I find the shocks have broken in quite a good bit.  Also, the mere addition of an airhawk made the very great difference as well.

[JProdun]

+1 on BQE and every other road in the great city of New York.

I was ejected over a foot in the air on one of the bumps on bqe. This can't be safe.

[stevet]

Okay, trying to keep things in budget while maintaining kidney and spine health, is seems Hagon Twin Shocks and Ikon 76101623 might be the reasonable shocks for the V7 bikes.

Hagon-
http://www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/HAGON_TWIN_SHOCKS.html

Ikon 76101623-
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2632

This Ikon seems to have adjustable rebound dampening while the Hagon do not have adjustable damping.  If I read these sites right.

So, Hagon at $214 (and up, depending on the cosmetics), or Ikon at $343 (and up, depending on cosmetics).  The Ikon are within my spending limits, will they be worth the extra cost over the Hagon?

Steve.

[stevet]

Discounting the cosmetic upgrades (chrome plating vs. paint, shrouds on the ends of the shocks), unless there is something I missed, it seems there is not a lot of middle ground of mechanical performance per dollar between the $350'ish Ikons and other brands/models that get you near the $1000 level.

I wouldn't expect these Ikons to give me a Goldwing-like ride but for how poor the OEM shocks are, I'd think (hope) they would be a big improvement.

Steve.

[krglorioso]

Because I am rather "slight" of construction, I have not enjoyed the very stiffly sprung OEM shocks on my 03 Stone Touring.  I called IKON in San Francisco and explained what I wanted.  A few days later I got a call that their engineer had suggested a spring for the 7610 series shocks that would work well for my weight and riding style.  I ordered the shocks.

What IKON supplied was spot on! 

Ralph

[11201ny]

No one uses Race Tech?

[Orange Guzzi]

My opinion, buy your wife her own bike.  Your bike is too small for two up extended riding.  It is good to ride two up a few miles to the pub or coffee shop, but not a cross country trip. 

When adding or deleting weight from the bike, you are falling outside of the range of the installed shocks.  You can get heavier springs or lighter springs to meet your needs.  But when you change the load, the spring rate will not be correct.  Buy a couple of sets of shocks.  Cheaper than buying another motorcycle.  When you ride two up, put the heavier sprung shocks on.  When you ride without a passenger, put the lighter springs on.  Or buy air shocks.  The dampening will not make a light spring heavier.  It will only slow down or speed up the compression and rebound. 

A variable rate spring will not solve your problem.  The added weight of two up riding and adding additional pre load will compress the spring beyond the tighter coils, making that part useless. 

Air shocks would be the easiest fix.  Straight rate with compression damping. 

[pyoungbl]

No one uses Race Tech?

I do. 

Go directly to RT.  Tell them how you will be riding (touring with luggage, two up, short trips only, etc) and how much adjustability you need.  The more features, the higher cost.  Most of us are OK with emulsion shocks.  If you are really pushing the envelope (with 40 RWHP?????) you might need piggyback.  When you get the shocks you will need to do some basic checks just to get them set up for your weight.  Check the static/race sag and set the pre-load to get the sag correct.  Ride the bike and see how it feels.  I had to send my shocks back to be re-valved for less compression dampening.  All the advice in the world is a best guess about how the shock should be set for you.  Only you can determine what really works.

If you look at the geometry for the rear suspension you will find that the shocks only move a maximum of about 3" for the full 4.5" of rear wheel travel.  My shocks now use that entire 3" (checked by putting a zip tie on the shaft) and I do not ride two up.  I did check this with a full load of touring gear (not camping stuff).

The fork springs I got from RT were too stiff.  Their recommendation was a starting point and I ended up going with softer springs (swapped out at no charge) so don't approach suspension as a plug-and-play deal.  You will have to be involved but the end result is a much better riding experience.

Peter Y.

[11201ny]

I do. 

Go directly to RT.  Tell them how you will be riding (touring with luggage, two up, short trips only, etc) and how much adjustability you need.  The more features, the higher cost.  Most of us are OK with emulsion shocks.  If you are really pushing the envelope (with 40 RWHP?????) you might need piggyback.  When you get the shocks you will need to do some basic checks just to get them set up for your weight.  Check the static/race sag and set the pre-load to get the sag correct.  Ride the bike and see how it feels.  I had to send my shocks back to be re-valved for less compression dampening.  All the advice in the world is a best guess about how the shock should be set for you.  Only you can determine what really works.

If you look at the geometry for the rear suspension you will find that the shocks only move a maximum of about 3" for the full 4.5" of rear wheel travel.  My shocks now use that entire 3" (checked by putting a zip tie on the shaft) and I do not ride two up.  I did check this with a full load of touring gear (not camping stuff).

Great post, very helpful - Thank you!

The fork springs I got from RT were too stiff.  Their recommendation was a starting point and I ended up going with softer springs (swapped out at no charge) so don't approach suspension as a plug-and-play deal.  You will have to be involved but the end result is a much better riding experience.

Peter Y.