My v65 refresh

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Ol Radar.. RIP.. A Maine Coon, would have had that dome off there in a heartbeat if he thought is was interesting.  ;D

My girlfriend has a Maine Coon & that is the most vocal cat I've ever seen! She's a BIG sweetie


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[Chuck in Indiana]

My girlfriend has a Maine Coon & that is the most vocal cat I've ever seen! She's a BIG sweetie


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Yep. Radar could "almost" talk.  ;D He loved people..  not too bright, but...

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I feel like I'm moving at a snail's pace..  But I did get a chunk knocked out today.. Built a breather system to replace what we lost with the airbox coming out.

I don't think this needs to be said, but this is NOT a 'how-to' thread. I am only posting the pics here to document my progress and *hopefully* when I do something wrong, someone, somewhere will set me straight!

Anyway, a kind member sent me pics of his breather system, upon which this one is based..  I'll redact his name here, as he says he was flamed for posting his design  ;D
But it looked good to me and made sense.. so I slightly modified his design and went to town  ~;


(the hairspray will be explained later  ??? )

I'm building a little manifold from PVC. First step is fixing the brass fittings into the end caps.

First pilot holes to center a bigger bit..  roughly equal to the ID of the threaded end of the fitting



I'm using a socket with some crap stuffed in it to hold the cap steady. This rusty old bit was the only one I had in the correct size.



Seated the fitting into the drill (turn down the speed and torque of the drill); then I heated the threaded end until it was so hot it almost burned me to touch it. (I'm a chef, too hot for me too touch is probably hotter than too hot for you to touch unless you are a welder)



I slowly drove the hot threads into the cap.  After a few mins in the freezer to cool, I had some damn good threads  ;-T




I made two threaded caps. One is the return to sump outlet (on the short L side). This end will point down to collect and drain oil.
I used the same ~drill undersized & press-in hot fitting~ technique to insert a T in the 'top' of the manifold. This junction is not as airtight as the caps, but it's pretty good. These are the connections for the valve cover vents.
On the long L endcap is the outlet to atmosphere. I cut a plug from a small piece of sponge & stuffed it in there.



It's quite compact and fits pretty neatly away. The exhaust runs up with a couple loops & tucks between the head tube gussets (Is that what they are called on a motorcycle? that would be the bicycle terminology). 
I am worried about the rise from the valve covers to the manifold..  In stock form these hoses run roughly 'downhill' to the airbox. As they run now, it's roughly a 6-7" rise from the valve cover port up the the manifold inlet.
The return hose to the sump follows the factory routing. The manifold looks pretty level in this pic. That is not the case, as the bike's rear wheel is elevated in the pic with a 2x4 under the centerstand and the front wheel on the ground.  Once the bike is level, it will profoundly tilt toward the outlet for oil to drain.



i took this fitting to NAPA and they acted like it was something mysterious and never-before-seen?  I wanted to finish today, so I just dremeled off the collar and fit the sump return onto the barb with an oetiker clamp

[Chuck in Indiana]

I am worried about the rise from the valve covers to the manifold..  In stock form these hoses run roughly 'downhill' to the airbox. As they run now, it's roughly a 6-7" rise from the valve cover port up the the manifold inlet.

No problemo. The stock location on the Lario is up in front of the coils. Molded threads.  ;D I would never have thought of trying that..

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

So here is the tiny hairspray bottle..  It will be my overflow/catch tank for the tranny breather.

I don't expect it to blow fluid all the way up the hose and into the catch...  if this thing turns out to be redundant, I will pitch it.

First I sprayed out the little remaining hairspray and held it until I couldn't hear gas escaping.
I pulled out what sprayer parts I could.. Then drove an awl down in the nipple.
Once I got a hole clear to the inside and was sure it wouldn't blow up.. I went to a drill bit, then a larger bit...  
Because the material is so thin and I don't have a vise or drill press...  After a couple drill bits i switched to some taps and just stepped up until I got the nipple sheared off fairly cleanly.  The hose was almost exactly the nipple diameter.  A little clean up with the dremel and I got a nice clean hole that's a perfect fir for the hose.



The hose is a snug, but not airtight fit in the hole.. Enough slop to blow off any pressure at all..  But tight enough to stay in place and hopefully return anything that blows over enough to accumulate in the catch can.  I sanded all the hairspray salon writing off the outside  ;-T



*************************
If we are keeping score,
I've now completed
*Trans breather update
*Pulled the airbox
*Oil pressure sending unit
*Crankcase Breather/return system
*Relocated the horn
*Re-routed some wiring
*Cleaned & damaged one carb~ verified I have euro jetting
*Replaced at least 10 fasteners with stainless


Today I hope to get the carb kits and filters..  Hopefully have the carbs back on by monday

I should also receive the gas cap flange and that can get a test fit.

*************************************

I still lack
*Mounting system for tank (concept intact)
*block-off plate for tank
*figure out how to get gas from tank to carbs
*modify rear fender to accept cafe seat
*rebuild both carbs
*shorten the clutch cable
*rear drive updates
*fix tach

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Here are the dimensions of the fuel pump bung on the bottom of the pre-2012 v7 tank

It ain't pretty but this is just a rubbing with measurements taken off the tank with calipers



As close as I can figure thru PM's and looking at pics.. It has the same footprint as several other Guzzi tanks


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[Muzz]

Very interesting thread. ya goin' good! ;-T

[Chuck in Indiana]

Here are the dimensions of the fuel pump bung on the bottom of the pre-2012 v7 tank

It ain't pretty but this is just a rubbing with measurements taken off the tank with calipers



As close as I can figure thru PM's and looking at pics.. It has the same footprint as several other Guzzi tanks


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I found some aircraft aluminum drops at my supplier yesterday.. cheap.. (Guzzi content) wanted 1/4" but they only had 3/8". That's what ya get..  ;D
Maybe tomorrow I'll make you one.

[Chuck in Indiana]

PM me your snail mail, and I'll get it off to you..

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Carbs are done but I did have one snafu and one question

Snafu:
I seem to be short a washer.. I've looked everywhere & I'm fairly certain I did not lose it.

The washer seems to protect the o-ring  from the spring. Do you think I am asking for trouble if I put it back together without this washer? Seems like a stretch to order one of these?? And no idea if something like this is available locally


My other question is this..
The main jet holder does not screw down tight to the shoulder of the main jet passageway

I am fairly certain the atomizer is correctly seated.. But it still doesn't screw in flush. I forgot to notice/take pics of this gap when I disassembled. Is it supposed to screw in flush?
The float bowl seems properly seated and I can see the atomizer tip protruding into the chamber.

*****edit!!****
I can see on this old tractor that it isn't supposed to seat fully on the shoulder

Still would love feedback on the washer



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[Mayor_of_BBQ]

The rear drive update was a mixed bag..

I was glad to open it up and find that the update has already been completed!

Oil passage is drilled and the plates are gone!

The only downfall here was that my rear drive was clamshelled with TWO spacers & 3 gaskets.. Was not expecting that so I only had 2 gaskets on hand!  Ordered some more from Harper's hopefully I will get it back together this week or weekend.

I had to remove the bolts with an impact driver.. The treads were either plugged with red gasket sealer or red locktite?

I assume I should reassemble the same... Rattle the bolts in instead of hand torque? And use gasket sealant in the holes?
This rear drive has never leaked for me.. Perhaps the double spacer, triple gasket, & gasket sealer in the holes indicates it did at some point?

****************
In other news, I got all the hardware to mount the tank today... It will be a multi-day project and I'm going to hold off the pics until it's completed but I'm feeling pretty fancy about my plans


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[kevdog3019]

I would not assemble without the/a washer. If it chews it up pieces aren't healthy in a carb.

Lock all of those jets/seats/etc. in good with your screwdriver. I won't describe the trouble I had while having seats come loose and starving me of fuel.  ::)
You know how to set the floats?  Important to get them close, but don't stress if not perfect.

Do things right and you will only have to do them once (the hope anyways). Don't hurry IOW. 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Uhhh, doesn't the spacer and gaskets involve how the crown wheel and pinion engage?

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Uhhh, doesn't the spacer and gaskets involve how the crown wheel and pinion engage?

I see what you are saying chuck.. But I don't get what you are saying?  I guess spacer is the wrong word.. More like shim? I see there are many sizes available. The two in my rear drive are roughly 1mm & .8mm and the gaskets were thin thin thin


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[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Lock all of those jets/seats/etc. in good with your screwdriver. I won't describe the trouble I had while having seats come loose and starving me of fuel.  ::)


You know how to set the floats?  Important to get them close, but don't stress if not perfect.

Kev,

I tightened everything as much as seemed practical.. Bender was pretty adamant in the tutorial not to over-torque the stuff together.. So I was tough, but fair lol

As for the floats.. I see there is a tab you could bend that would limit or influence how high it floats.. But I'm not sure how to set it or if it should be set high or low... I did not adjust it; just put it back together as it was.

This bike ran great when the carbs weren't full of rust; so I don't think there is any reason to adjust the float height??


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[kevdog3019]

Kev,

I tightened everything as much as seemed practical.. Bender was pretty adamant in the tutorial not to over-torque the stuff together.. So I was tough, but fair lol

As for the floats.. I see there is a tab you could bend that would limit or influence how high it floats.. But I'm not sure how to set it or if it should be set high or low... I did not adjust it; just put it back together as it was.

This bike ran great when the carbs weren't full of rust; so I don't think there is any reason to adjust the float height??




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Yes... a good hand tight and no more on those carb bits. When you have things apart it's wise to take all measures to take note of things. Float height is easy to check. Dellorto has a site that explains their carbs. Just google. I would not EVER use a pneumatic tool on a Guzzi (can you say stripped threads). Put that rear drive together by hand and a torque wrench. I wouldn't guess on gaskets or assume the PO got it right. Use correct parts and your life will be much easier.
Kevin

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Got both carbs together and mounted.. All seems perfect and the Malossi pods fit perfectly


I've had an issue with the clutch cable on this bike since I got it. First clutch cable broke in the first 100mi.  I ordered a v65sp cable and it was away too long? I ordered a v65c cable and it was a *bit* too long.  It fits.. But the adjuster at the lever had to be wound all the way out to the last thread to engage.
This must be an issue with several smallblocks... Chuck had a similar issue in the Lario thread. Chuck was able to turn out a spacer but since I don't have a lathe, I needed another solution.

I decide to make my own cable

I started with a *road* bicycle brake cable. These 'inner wires' are 1.5mm while the clutch cable is 2mm.
I am not concerned about cable breaking.. The force I exert stopping my bike while descending the BRP at 50 mph far exceeds the stress put on the clutch cable.

The stop on the cable ends are different for road vs MTB brake levers, and the road style fits perfectly in the stock barrel/anchor

the stock cable up top, bicycle road middle, MTB at bottom


Since bicycle cables only have a brazen on stop at one end, had to make the barrel/anchor that fits in the shifter arm tongue thingy

I used a brass screw type end to determine & clamp the cable length.. Then I lightly clamped the cable to mark the position and backed the bolt off so it wasn't crimping the wire.. I trimmed the wire to length and frayed it within the tube to make a more secure fitting


I left the bolt in just a turn or three and filled the brass fitting with solder.



I used a dremel to cut off the bolt & clean it up a bit.


It fits like a glove :-D




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[balvenie]

           Very clever ;-T

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I got my block-off plate from Chuck today, fit is perfect. I am just waiting on an couple little pieces from Harper's to fit the tank and build that mount.

I have been thinking of the petcock situation

The V7 tank I have is a vinyl Acerbis tank.  I looked on the Acerbis website and found these
http://shops.hookit.com/Acerbis/FullImage/Default.aspx?Image=2044230998.jpg&ImageName=Petcocks%20and%20Parts


As far as I can tell, you just drill a hole right in the tank for the tube, and screw it in? it can't be that simple??  ::)
That little O-ring will keep it from leaking and the wood screws won't pull out  ???

I am very suspect to just drill holes in this tank.. sure i got it used and as cheap as you could hope for...  But dang this doesn't seem like a secure option? Am I over thinking this?

[oldbike54]

No idea , but you are making us proud  ;-T

  Dusty

[Chuck in Indiana]

I got my block-off plate from Chuck today, fit is perfect. I am just waiting on an couple little pieces from Harper's to fit the tank and build that mount.

I have been thinking of the petcock situation

The V7 tank I have is a vinyl Acerbis tank.  I looked on the Acerbis website and found these
http://shops.hookit.com/Acerbis/FullImage/Default.aspx?Image=2044230998.jpg&ImageName=Petcocks%20and%20Parts


As far as I can tell, you just drill a hole right in the tank for the tube, and screw it in? it can't be that simple??  ::)
That little O-ring will keep it from leaking and the wood screws won't pull out  ???

I am very suspect to just drill holes in this tank.. sure i got it used and as cheap as you could hope for...  But dang this doesn't seem like a secure option? Am I over thinking this?

On Rosie, the block off plate is toward the back. I'd drill a hole in that, drill and tap it, and install the petcock. I certainly *wouldn't* just drill a hole somewhere in the tank.

[Chuck in Indiana]

If you're not comfortable tapping blind holes in the plate, just send it back with a sketch of location and orientation of where you want to have it.

[650TT]

I ran into the same problem with my project Lario that I fitted an Acerbis V7 tank onto.
The problem I saw was by putting standard fuel taps into the blanking plate it would have made the manual taps difficult to get to (especially with a hot motor.)
I have seen several Italian bikes hydraulic due to not turning the fuel off, very expensive Dellorto lesson to learn!

I ended up fitting a Nevada electric solenoid style fuel tap in the blanking plate and have just wired it up to open when the ignition is on.
The only question is how reliable the Nevada Solenoid will be???

Cheers
Bruce

[Chuck in Indiana]

I ran into the same problem with my project Lario that I fitted an Acerbis V7 tank onto.
The problem I saw was by putting standard fuel taps into the blanking plate it would have made the manual taps difficult to get to (especially with a hot motor.)
I have seen several Italian bikes hydraulic due to not turning the fuel off, very expensive Dellorto lesson to learn!

I ended up fitting a Nevada electric solenoid style fuel tap in the blanking plate and have just wired it up to open when the ignition is on.
The only question is how reliable the Nevada Solenoid will be???

Cheers
Bruce

The valve will be fine. The failure is right where the two wires exit the "potted" epoxy. They flex and over time one will break. Support the wiring with zip ties, and pay attention to not letting them flex.

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

If I put the petcocks In the block off plate tho.. I'm consigning myself to only using 2/3 of my fuel capacity forever??
The spot for fuel pickup would leave over a gallon++ inaccessible  in the bottom of the tank!
Also I need a 3-position petcock for the reserve (no fuel gauge)...
I also don't want electronic because i need to be able to close them & run the carbs dry for storage (*only* E-10 available around here)

Bruce, is love to see a few pics of your tank mounts & petcocks

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[Mayor_of_BBQ]

If you're not comfortable tapping blind holes in the plate, just send it back with a sketch of location and orientation of where you want to have it.

Drilling & tapping holes is within my skillset!

Next thing you'll be getting in the mail from me is :beer !


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[Chuck in Indiana]

Drilling & tapping holes is within my skillset!

Next thing you'll be getting in the mail from me is :beer !


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Thanks for that, but no need.  ;D Is the block off plate toward the front on the V7 tank? If so, I wouldn't be above fiberglassing some mounts on the rear of the tank where I wanted them. On the V11 tank, it's right where you would want it if you were putting a fuel tap on it.

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Got my rear drive back together with all the apropos shims & gaskets

I was feeling pretty snappy with myself until I threaded the drain plug back in!


Dagnabbit!
Well I slotted it with a dremel & it spun right out with a screwdriver...

I guess I'm off to NAPA tomorrow to see if the have a plug that fits.. I'm pretty sure it's a m8 x1.25 but I'll double check


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[Chuck in Indiana]

I'm pretty sure it's a m8 x1.25 but I'll double check

I'm pretty sure that it's not.  ;D :BEER:

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Thanks for that, but no need.  ;D Is the block off plate toward the front on the V7 tank? If so, I wouldn't be above fiberglassing some mounts on the rear of the tank where I wanted them. On the V11 tank, it's right where you would want it if you were putting a fuel tap on it.

Chuck the porthole is at the rear of the tank




Doesn't look like it could pick up any gas lower than the top edge of this caliper






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