My v65 refresh

[Chuck in Indiana]

Hmmm. I guess you could be creative, and put a flop tube on it like on aerobatic airplanes. Just a rubber hose with a weight on the end with holes in it. It could lay in the low part of  of the tank. Just a thought from left field..

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I had thought about that chuck.. I didn't know if there would be enough 'pull'

Also I was hoping to preserve the reserve function since I don't have a fuel gauge


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[BPRM]

And this is all going on in your front room? I got tossed out when I had a greasy manual in there. :wife:

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Yes this is a living room project!

Well the rear drive plug is a m10x1.5

Couldn't find a plug locally but I scored a flanged bolt that will work


Of course it's too long!


And I still wanted magnet capability so had to address that



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[balvenie]

          I hope the heat doesn't soften that J B Weld :o

[Chuck in Indiana]

I *think* JB's ok to 300F or so..

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

          I hope the heat doesn't soften that J B Weld :o

I don't think the heat back there is enough to break the JB

The good news is that the magnet is *much* stronger than the stocker & it sticks to the bolt tight (bolt isn't stainless).. It would probably hold there even without the JB weld.. And the steel particles in the JB, they are going to stay stuck on the magnet as well.


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[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Chuck look at this..  Could bolt right on a Harley petcock 3/8"

http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/Oops_Fittings.pdf


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[Triple Jim]

I also don't want electronic because i need to be able to close them & run the carbs dry for storage...

That by itself isn't a problem, since you can put a plug-in connector at or near the valve, and be able to unplug it to run the carbs dry.  I'm not pushing solenoid operated fuel valves though.   :)

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chuck look at this..  Could bolt right on a Harley petcock 3/8"

http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/Oops_Fittings.pdf


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I've known the Monnet bunch for 30 some years.  ;D That oughta work.
As they say, the smoother and flatter the better. Fuel leaks are a major PITA. Don't ask me how I know.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Chuck look at this..  Could bolt right on a Harley petcock 3/8"

http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/Oops_Fittings.pdf

Hmm. Made almost exactly the same thing to install a petcock on a vintage Malcolm Smith tank for my XT500. That tank has plenty of flat area on the bottom for one, but it doesn't look like the V7 Classic tank does. Might be, but I don't see a suitable place in any of your photos.  

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I'll have to do some measurements but I think there is a spot

Thanks guys.. Big vote of confidence


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[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I got the trim ring for the tank



I had intent to polish it but I decided it won't look right as my bike has no real 'bling'

I couldn't figure any way to apply a 'brushed finish that would look uniform

So I simple hazed it up with a water stone.  Gives a really neat finish on knives so what the heck.

I worked it a little and got a very even blue haze.

Cut out a gasket
 
There must must must be a faster way to do all this stuff... Every project takes me all day!

Bonded the filler bung with JB weld


I washed & waxed the tank and put it all together

The bolts are S/S bicycle water bottle cage bolts. I'm on the lookout for some black ones


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[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Time to tackle the mount for the tank.  Luckily the neck width is about perfect. The V65 rubber bumpers are a little wide but provide a firm fit :-)

The rubber pucks do not line up with the puck-slots for the tank so I wanted a very secure rear mount.

Unfortunately the rear MC rez and this electrical doo-dad are in the way.  But at least there is a bracket to work with!


I forced Lisa to walk (oh, the indignity) to the storage unit.. I think there is a little vise and an angle grinder in there


Back at the shop I carefully measured & plotted..  Then I said screw it and just went nuts with a little heat-n-beat


It accidentally came out dang near straight on the first try


There was much test fitting, cursing, drilling... Then I used precision instruments to get it dialed in


Test fit looks good, even enough room for the petcock! (More on the plumbing project soon)


There was much sanding and painting & oven curing.. To get here


And it all fits tight & right but I do need a shorter fixing bolt lol



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[Muzz]

Really enjoying this.  ;-T ;-T

A length of #8 wire and a bit of flax; a guy can do 'most anything!  ;D ;D

[Kiwi_Roy]

Just a question on the gas cap.

It looks pretty air tight, have you allowed for a tank vent?

Great thread BTW ;-T

[Chuck in Indiana]

What KR sez.. gotta be a vent somewhere.

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Oh yes.. The tank is vented

The tank has two vents.. It formerly had the carbon canister



The lower one I blocked off with a license plate bolt

The other one is still clear & venting out the bottom of the tank..  If I can figure out WTF kind of threads or a good press-fit.. I will put on a tube to the bottom vent and run a  drain tube down


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[kevdog3019]

Oh yes.. The tank is vented

The tank has two vents.. It formerly had the carbon canister



The lower one I blocked off with a license plate bolt

The other one is still clear & venting out the bottom of the tank..  If I can figure out WTF kind of threads or a good press-fit.. I will put on a tube to the bottom vent and run a  drain tube down


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I see the vent hole and main hole are venting to the same spot; under the sealed filler cap.  Is this tightly sealed as I'm thinking?  If so, I'd say it's not venting.  Am I missing something?

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I see the vent hole and main hole are venting to the same spot; under the sealed filler cap.  Is this tightly sealed as I'm thinking?  If so, I'd say it's not venting.  Am I missing something?

Both of these holes go thru sealed tubes thru the tank and exit at the bottom

So the vents are on the underside, the two holes lead to two holes on the underside

In this case I've got one hole blocked at the top...

The hole I've left open vents direct to atmosphere

[kevdog3019]

Thanks for the explanation.  Forgot about those tubes running out the bottom.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Nice use of a precision BFH.. ;-T

[tusong200]

I had an unforeseen problem with petcock locations on my 'Mario' (Lario rolling chassis w/Mona body work). Because the V65 cylinders are taller than the Monza V50 cylinders it made the carburetor locations higher and wider. They ran right into the petcocks on the Monza tank.

The simplest solution was to move the petcocks. My local welder charged me $10 to relocate them.

I thought long and hard to come up with a reason that this location wasn't acceptable but could come up with nothing other than it being a bit 'outside the box'. Rode all summer with no problem.

If you want to retain your 3-position petcocks (w/reserve) this location might work......maybe not?? 

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

So time to get the gas out of the tank and into the carbs..

Lots of discussion on this... Do I need a flop tube, should I drill for petcocks, can I put petcock in the block-off plate???

I've decided to do the following:

Got all my fixtures
 

I elected to drill the block-off plate for a single petcock.

I will use a single flop tube in one side of the tank's deep lobes

Since there isn't continuous vacuum to keep fuel running up the line, over the plate, & down to the carbs..  I'm using a little Mikuni pulse fuel pump to feed gas.



The pump is rated at 14L per hr but I think the simple siphon action will do most the work.. The pump will mostly be needed when the fuel level drops below the block-off plate.

Since I have the pickup tube only in one deep side of the tank.. My 'reserve' will be pulling the front wheel on a curb & shaking the gas from one recessed side of the tank to the one with the pickup tube... Dirtbike style.  I'll have to carry gas at first till I get the milage dialed in.



The pulse pump is driven off the intake.. I've just replaced the carb balancing port screw thingy with a m6 grease fitting I pulled the guts out of.

The vent tubes that run from the filler hole to the underside of the tank retain the pickup tube on the left side.


My dad gave me a drill press for Christmas.. Too bad I had to bolt it to a cutting board but it's quite stable. It did make a hell of a mess tho (I only watch Downton Abbey while wrenching! Very macho!)

Drilled the block off plate and taped it for NPT for the petcock

Lisa helped me hold the block-off plate while I screwed in the petcock


Unfortunately I got a little over zealous trying to drive it in too far

(Just needs a 1/4 turn more!!)

Luckily I had an extra petcock

The brass fitting is screwed onto the petcock threads that protrude thru the plate.. With pipe tape all around. (Hope that was the right call)


It's only one output from the tank to both carbs.. It runs thru an inline filter before splitting to both carbs. Hopefully with the pump it will feed enough to both carbs! If not Mikuni makes a dual output pump that flows 30L per hr I'll try that!

Here's the final product.. The weight on the flop tube is just another brass fitting like the one on the petcock

Now all I need is the bung gasket from Harpers & we'll see if it leaks!

**if anyone thinks this system won't work!! Please say so!!

I got this idea over at ADV after asking the DS guys about drilling a plastic tank

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

While I wait on the gasket I'm going to address the rear end wiring.

The loom is just a little too short & I have had several instances if the rear wheel scrubbing the wiring when riding two up. This destroyed the wiring to one of the turn signals.

I want to cut down the rear fender a bit (just enough to clean up the back since my cheap tank and seat are headed in a cafe direction).

I picked this updated Lucas style light from Dime City which suits my needs.


Unfortunately it doesn't quite fit the curve of the fender perfectly so I had to space it somehow. I had a little spacer in the box but it was way too thick and of course only one so I decided to cut it in half.

Since I'm so stoked with my new drill press I decided to use that to cut it


The cable worked perfectly


After minimal cleanup I had two spacers and the damn things were even the same size!


All bolted up you can't really see them but it worked perfectly, on the first try, as conceived! A first for me lol


I used some electrical tape to mark off the section I want to chop. What do you think of this fender shape?

The turn signals are going to mount in the holes of the upper  frame tubes tabs tucked under the seat.

Next question.. What should I cut this fender with? I want to do minimal damage to the paint. I have an angle grinder.. A dremel.. Hacksaw, die grinder.. That's it.



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[Chuck in Indiana]

Next question.. What should I cut this fender with? I want to do minimal damage to the paint. I have an angle grinder.. A dremel.. Hacksaw, die grinder.. That's it.

Die grinder with a 1/16" fiber wheel.
I'm enjoying some of your McGyver methods  ;D BUT you're lucky you didn't get hurt with the cable "cutter."
Maybe your Dremel with a cut off wheel or a hacksaw with the same setup would have cut it cleanly without a chance of that cable getting caught and ruining your day.  ;)
I like the tail light and proposed fender cut.

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Die grinder with a 1/16" fiber wheel.
I'm enjoying some of your McGyver methods  ;D BUT you're lucky you didn't get hurt with the cable "cutter."
Maybe your Dremel with a cut off wheel or a hacksaw with the same setup would have cut it cleanly without a chance of that cable getting caught and ruining your day.  ;)
I like the tail light and proposed fender cut.

Thanks chuck I'll look for a wheel!

As for cutting plastic with the cable.. I'm only holding it with one hand for the pic.. While the chuck was spinning I held it taught with two vise grips :beer


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[Chuck in Indiana]

Thanks chuck I'll look for a wheel!

As for cutting plastic with the cable.. I'm only holding it with one hand for the pic.. While the chuck was spinning I held it taught with two vise grips :beer


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Oh. So then when the cable gets wound up on the chuck it yanks the vise grip out of your hand, spins it around and slaps you upside the head?  ;D or worse?  :o
Trust me. I've trained many apprentices over the years, and my biggest challenge was to keep them from getting hurt. Anything that is spinning, whether it's a drill press, lathe, mill, grinder, etc. is fully capable of doing serious damage to flesh and bone.  :beat_horse

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Ah-ha

How does one sign up for an internship ??!!

You think this fuel pump system is going to work chuck?


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[Chuck in Indiana]

Ah-ha

How does one sign up for an internship ??!!

You think this fuel pump system is going to work chuck?


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I *think* so.  ;D A few questions off the top of my head. I'm a little concerned whether the shut off valve is fuel proof. (?) Can fuel gravity flow through the pump without the engine running? How much pressure does the fuel pump put out? Will it overpower the ability of the float to stop flow? Is the pump necessary at all?