Removing Norge Airbox

[smdl]

Hi, folks.

I'm removing the airbox for the first time on my (new-to-me) 2007 Norge so I can change in the inside plugs more easily.  The bike has about 33000km, and the previous owner advises that they haven't been changed for quite awhile.  I've located the instructions in the shop manual for removing the box, bit it really doesn't seem to be cooperating, and I want to be sure that I don't break anything.  Although it has warmed up significantly in the Toronto area today, it's till below freezing, and the plastics are bound to be a bit brittle.

The manual indicates to "slide off the sleeve from the throttle body", and I can force them off, but they just seem to want to slide back on.  Do these sleeves slide into the airbox like those on my V11 Le Mans, or do they just deform to come off the throttle bodies?  It looks like if I can't get them to retract a bit, it might be tough getting the box up and out through the upper frame rails. 

I'm sure this is pretty simple once you have done it once, but I would prefer to understand before forcing something that shouldn't be forced.  BTW, I did search, but couldn't find a clear answer. 

Thanks!

Shaun

[Bill Hagan]

First, as with most of my responses to any post that poses a remotely technical question, well ... don't expect much.   ::)

Now with that (nonetheless) accurate disclaimer said, let me say that I have pulled the air box on my 2007 Norge more than once -- and got everything back together and it all still works!  Obvious point is anybody can do it and not break anything.

OK, here's what I recall. It took way more "oomph" -- to get off and in (harder than off, as I recall; sorry) than made me comfortable.  

You mention cold.  Are you doing this in an unheated garage?  If so, well, first, condolences.  Second, admiration.  And, third, heck, you just might want to figure out some way to warm those up to work with 'em.  Oops; sorry.  Them.  Annoys your fellow countryman Nick949 to contract "them."   ;D

Seriously, most of the curses and scraped body parts I've had with Guzzis have involved air boxes and throttle bodies.  A pox on the designers.   :'(

So, hope someone with recent experience chimes in to help you ... and, actually, me, too, as I will be pulling mine off again in the next month or so.

Best,

Bill

Edited to add that I very much doubt the inner plugs really need changing.  In fact, IMO, the only good reason to do at your low mileage is to put some anti seize on them so that they aren't an unmitigated PITA to remove when needed.   

[Matteo]

It's pretty robust, spray some silicone lube, make sure all attachments are clear and yank it out. The lube makes it easy to replace too.

[Waltr]

  Whenever I pull the airbox again I will make sure I have around 3 ft. of that clear tubing that drains the oil from the airbox.  Not sure if the '07's have it but when I got the airbox on I had the drain tube routed wrong and it was a bear getting it right.  There is only one way for it to go on correctly.  The tubing looks like aquarium air line.

[blackcat]

I found it easier to remove the air cleaner and grabbing/pulling it from the inside of the box.

[smdl]

First, as with most of my responses to any post that poses a remotely technical question, well ... don't expect much.   ::)

Now with that (nonetheless) accurate disclaimer said, let me say that I have pulled the air box on my 2007 Norge more than once -- and got everything back together and it all still works!  Obvious point is anybody can do it and not break anything.

OK, here's what I recall. It took way more "oomph" -- to get off and in (harder than off, as I recall; sorry) than made me comfortable.  

You mention cold.  Are you doing this in an unheated garage?  If so, well, first, condolences.  Second, admiration.  And, third, heck, you just might want to figure out some way to warm those up to work with 'em.  Oops; sorry.  Them.  Annoys your fellow countryman Nick949 to contract "them."   ;D

Seriously, most of the curses and scraped body parts I've had with Guzzis have involved air boxes and throttle bodies.  A pox on the designers.   :'(

So, hope someone with recent experience chimes in to help you ... and, actually, me, too, as I will be pulling mine off again in the next month or so.

Best,

Bill

Edited to add that I very much doubt the inner plugs really need changing.  In fact, IMO, the only good reason to do at your low mileage is to put some anti seize on them so that they aren't an unmitigated PITA to remove when needed.   

Hi, Bill.  

Yes, I am working in a garage that is both unheated and uninsulated.  I'm usually good down to about -5c, and have gone as low as -15c, but metal tools really start to hurt, by that point.  I'm nowhere near Nick's level of manliness, though -- he's probably halfway to the Arctic Circle on his NF, right now, wearing nothing but a high-vis Speedo, and narrating on-the-fly (with impeccable grammar and diction, as always).   ;D  Seriously,  there's a guy worthy of respect -- I just run back to the living room when I get chilly!

Thanks, for sharing your experience with the air box.   Sounds like I just need to be a bit more persuasive, and maybe point a heater at it for awhile first.   By the way, I know that the inner plugs are probably fine.  It just seems to make sense to change them out while I have the bike stripped down this far already.   Anti-seize is definitely part of the plan!

Cheers,
Shaun

[smdl]

Thanks for the tips, all.  One question that remains in my mind, though, relates to the snorkels that attach to the throttle bodies.  Do these retract into the air box, at all, or do they simply pop off as the box is lifted?

Cheers,
Shaun

[blackcat]

Thanks for the tips, all.  One question that remains in my mind, though, relates to the snorkels that attach to the throttle bodies.  Do these retract into the air box, at all, or do they simply pop off as the box is lifted?

Cheers,
Shaun

There is a lip around the snorkels which seats them in the box. As you pull off the box they should stay in place. When I re-install the box I reach inside and adjust the snorkels so they seat properly.

[guzzisteve]

The intake rubbers on the box stay connected. They don't slide in. You take off the clamps, push them in against box flat to slide up w/airbox on inside of frame. When you pop up the back side 2" stop and take off drain hose and put a long tie wrap around it, so it stays in place and doesn't drop down. Silicone spray will help.

I would clean out throttle bodies while you have it out, I do this every 12K service.

[smdl]

Excellent!  Thanks BC and GS.

By the way, guzzisteve, you were the first WG member I met when I got my initial Guzzi.  That was in 2010 -- I bought my 2003 V11 Le Mans in FL, and stopped in at Rider's Hill  on the way home the next day to have the original tires swapped out.  You were working at the lift next to the guy that was changing my tires, and were very helpful to him in ensuring that the fork wouldn't bind.  You also gave me a little run-down on how the crazy 6-speed gearbox in this model seems a bit like a Swiss watch.  Probably nothing but a few passing comments from your perspective, but I wanted to let you know that it meant a lot to me, and was instrumental in forming my initial impression of how nice/helpful members of the Guzzi community are.  That impression certainly hasn't changed, and I'd like to thank you for both your initial and ongoing help.

Cheers,
Shaun

[guzzisteve]

Shaun,      Yes, I now know who you are, I remember. Long ride from FL to Canada.

If you clean out TB's, shoot the spray in from the opposite side of bike, a clear shot.  And the drain hose for the box is on LH side on rear corner, careful not to break off nipple.

[smdl]

Thanks again, Steve.  I will give them a cleaning.

Shaun

[Matteo]

They may not be pliable in the temps you described, I have always pulled my box out in a warm garage.

[smdl]

Thanks, MM.  Yeah, I should probably wait, but I really want to get the Norge buttoned-up and off the lift table.  I promised to help my neighbour put a lowering kit on his Harley Night Train (he has really short legs!!), and I want to get my 850-T/750S project back on there for reassembly.  Patience was never my strong point, but procrastination certainly is, so I need to keep moving!  I'll try pointing some heat at things while I'm working.  It's actually +3c here, at the moment!  That won't last long!

I noticed that you are from Vancouver, WA -- great place (I used to live in the Vancouver, BC).  One of the things I thought was cool about that area was the ability to live in Vancouver (low property taxes), and shop in Portland (no sales tax).  Not a bad combination!  I seem to recall that that mall everyone went was the Lloyd Center?

Cheers,
Shaun

[smdl]

Well, thanks to the excellent advice here, I was able to remove the air box without too much trouble, and was successful in getting the inner plugs swapped out.  Very glad I did, as they were not easy to get moving, and were quite corroded on the outside when I got them out.  A little anti-seize will hopefully prevent that next time.  By the way, I used this tool, as recommended in some other posts:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0239/

I'm glad to say that it worked very well, but I still have to question the thought process that went into designing this frame/engine combination.   ::)

The other reason that I was happy I checked the inner plugs is that one of the plug wires (right-side) fell apart as I touched it, and the terminal remained attached to the plug.  Also, the coil side was improperly seated, with the wire mostly pulled through the boot (terminal exposed).  Not sure what happened there, but I'm glad I found this, as that plug might not have been doing much.  Question:  does it matter which plug (inner/outer) is connected to the upper and lower terminal on the coil?  I wouldn't think so, but each side is different on this bike. 

The left side plug wire came out just fine, using the tie-wrap trick that I heard about here.  I then tried testing the left (good) plug wire with an ohmmeter, and found a complete lack of continuity.  Is this normal with these?  I would have thought there would be some change on the meter?

So, it looks like I need a new set of inner plug wires, and these look unique enough that I'm assuming I should order replacements from the dealer rather than aftermarket.  Is that a fair assessment?

Once again, I really appreciate everyone's input.  This would have been a lot tougher without!   :bow

Thanks,
Shaun