Sport 1100i timing chain/tensioner.

[Doug McLaren]

Hello. I have a 1998 Sport 1100i with about 36,000 kms on it and I was wondering what the expected life of the timing chain and tensioner is. The reason I ask is that it has a little hiccup sometimes on very light throttle openings, especially under about 3,000 and will also cut out altogether every now and then at idle. When I reset the tps and synched the throttle bodies it would occasionally try and blow the balancing tubes off the spigots on the bodies as if it was blowing back through them. Other than that it goes like the bloody clappers!

It's got a Will Creedon chip and a replacement crossover, the silencers are the standard items, as is the airbox/filter.

I have read that it may be just the tensioner that is at fault causing the timing to fluctuate and should be replaced with a valtech/stuchhi item. I'd appreciate any thoughts or insight.

Thanks.

Doug

[guzzisteve]

I would check air bypass screws (1/2 to 3/4 open) and adjust idle mixture on the ECU.
Rubber plug on top of ECU case, a real small screw inside to turn. Best to put some shrinkwrap on the screwdriver shaft as not to short anything.
I use a Colortune to see ignition flame for idle mix, but most use a sniffer in tail pipe.

I would think the spring loaded chain adjuster would go at least 50K. I've had one in my Cal 2 for 75K and it's still fine.

[D Knaus]

My '97 Sporti has done that since new.  It has one of the later Will Creedon chips, Screw adjustment set, etc.  I also have Staintune exh.
Using premium gasoline seems to help a little.   
When the idle stall gets bad, I replace plugs, reset TPS, sync the throttlebodies.  It usually takes the idle stall out.  Mine doesn't hiccup much, but I keep the revs up pretty well, and that may help.
I too have wondered if the timing chain could be worn, but haven't pulled it apart to examine.  Mine has about 75,000 miles now, and hasn't really changed since new, so I think it is more the nature of the beast rather than a mechanical problem.
I know someone who replaced the ECU with a MyECU and I don't think that took care of it either.
If someone has a definite remedy for the hiccup and idle stall, I would certainly like to know about it.
-Dale

[LowRyter]

Carl Allison mentioned that timing chain could be a source for rideability issues for 1100 Sport like you describe.  He's taken one all the way apart and back.

Makes me wonder if that could also be an issue with my EV?

[Doug McLaren]

Thanks for the replies. I've done a bit more digging care of Google and come up with this thread on the V11 forum.

 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11660

I'm usually one for doing all the simple things first but the symptoms match mine so for the sake of spending a few quid on parts and gaskets and a few hours of my time I may as well replace the tensioner. Like I said earlier, I've already done the TPS reset/TB balance procedure so I've nothing to lose.

Whaddya reckon?

[Vasco DG]

Doug, the late model Guzzi tensioner still has a bit of a feeble spring. I much prefer the Valtech, blade type, tensioner.

Pete

[voncrump]

My advice would be to check the valve clearances and try setting them to the raceco specs of 0.008" inlet and 0.010" exhaust or 0.2mm inlet and 0.25mm exhaust if you prefer metric. These settings have all but eliminated the backfiring on my 1100 sport carb and also fixed a friends V11 so it has worked on both carbureted and injected bikes. I think that if the inlet is set at the standard clearances it allows the motor to fire back a bit into the intake tract. It won't cost you anything to try this fix.
Good luck, voncrump

[Kiwi_Roy]

As Pete says the original tensioner spring is a "bit feeble", I wondered how it could possibly work, in particular at idle when the motor is hunting ???

No you don't have to pull the motor, the front wheel gets in the way but not too much.
heres a picture, the original is at the top Valteck at the bottom

Yes you need to pull all the sprockets off to replace the chain, to get the nut off the crank you need a very deep socket
or use my solution a 3/4" drive socket slipped over with a few wraps of masking tape to protect the shaft.
Grind 2 flats on the socket so you can get some purchase. If you have a welder extend the socket with a lump of pipe then
you can weld another 1/2" on the end for torque wrench.

I don't recommend my method of holding the sprocket but it was all I could think of at the time and I was changing the
chain out anyway. To tighten it back I put the bike in top gear and stood on the brake (yes, you can do it by yourself)
One thing I found, when you take the old tensioner bracket off the two bolts that held it are too long. these are special bolts
so I simply wacked the bracket in half and left a message for the next guy.

The Valteck in place


BTW, This is a VII Sport, I assume it's similar.

[Doug McLaren]

Thanks for the replies and all the information fellas. I reckon I'll just go for a new valtech tensioner, for a start they're way cheaper than the Guzzi item, only £16 so that makes it an easy decision. I've had a good squizz at the parts diagram and there seems to be an o ring behind the alternator, is that right? Never seen one on my roundfins or small block. So I reckon new tensioner, cover gasket, oil seal and o ring should do the job. I can't see the chain itself being worn to any great degree as it's only done 36,00 km (23,000miles), or am I fooling myself ?

Think I'll whip the front wheel off too to make it easier to get my big napper in for a looksee.

Thing is I've spent a few hundred quid on the bike this year, had the forks rebuilt and re-sprung, changed all the wheel bearings, drive box outer, the steering bearings, swinging arm bearings and given the shock pivots a good dollop of grease, so I might as well have the engine running sweet too.

Thanks again for your help.

Doug

[Vasco DG]

Yes there is an o-ring. It seals the sleeve that the seal runs on. It will be as brittle as buggery and will fall to bits when you remove it. Get a new one before you start.

Pete

[Doug McLaren]

Well, here's an update. I got the bits together and removed the timing cover to find that the "tensioner" (Ha bloody Ha) was doing virtually nothing,   put a new spring loaded blade type in, new o ring, new gasket then boxed it all back up. The temperature today was about 4 deg C but it started in just a couple of revolutions and after a few moments of clearing it's throat settled into a nice steady idle, bit low at first so I bumped it up to about 1000 rpm. Although the roads are dry there's still a fair bit of salt on them so I just had a quick 15 min ride to check for oil leaks etc. So far so good.

I'm glad that I did this as I really like the bike and want it to run well, total cost was just under £25 and about 4 or 5 hours of my time.

Thanks again to all who've shown an interest and offered help and advice.