1000SP timing chain replacement..advice welcome!!

[nunzio]

I was told by a very experienced Guzzi Guy... that my "new to me" 1000SP probably needs to have the timing chain replaced since it has 75,000 miles on it.
So I am looking for any advice you can share.
I am buying the timing chain with the master link from Moto International and a new tensioner and gasket.

Are there any other parts I need to replace?(bolts,washers)?

I keep reading about a tool that locks the flywheel in place,but, I am not taking the engine out.
Is there another way to do this since I'm using the masterlink chain?

Do I have to remove any sprockets to install the masterlink chain.

This is my first time doing anything like this.. ..so.. any advice/criticism is welcome.

I have tried search and have found very little on replacing the chain with a masterlink.

Thanks for your help.....Alan

Thanks !!!! Arizona Wayne for correcting me on my using the term "gears" wrong!!!    I did mean sprockets and edited my post to reflect that.....Alan

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Is it making any noise, like the usual rattle from the timing chest area? If it's not, then I wouldn't open it up.

[Arizona Wayne]

Cam chains usually last 100K miles before they need replacing. If your bike has gears instead it doesn't have a cam chain any more.  Or are you calling the sprockets gears?

[travelingbyguzzi]

They are acually sprockets rather than gears. They will not need to be removed. You will need some sort of dremel tool to cut off the old chain. If original, it does not have a master link. Also, you will need a tool to remove the rotor on the end of the crankshaft, before you can remove the timing chain cover.

[nunzio]

Cam chains usually last 100K miles before they need replacing. If your bike has gears instead it doesn't have a cam chain any more.  Or are you calling the sprockets gears?

Thanks !!!! Arizona Wayne for correcting me on my using the term "gears" wrong!!!    I did mean sprockets and edited my post to reflect that.....Alan

[nunzio]

Is it making any noise, like the usual rattle from the timing chest area? If it's not, then I wouldn't open it up.

I got a phone message from the P.O. when I got home from picking up the SP in Iowa that he thought that it was starting to make a rattling sound like the timing chain needed replaced.

He owned the SP for around 20 years.

I'll crank it up tonight and see if can hear it.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I got a phone message from the P.O. when I got home from picking up the SP in Iowa that he thought that it was starting to make a rattling sound like the timing chain needed replaced.

He owned the SP for around 20 years.

I'll crank it up tonight and see if can hear it.

If it's never been replaced, it's probably due. That said.. I **hate** grinding grit on internal engine parts. If you absolutely must do that.. take serious pains to make sure that no grinding grit gets in the engine. Seriously. Lots of rags, etc.
It's really no big deal to use a chain with no master link  . All you have to do is pull all three sprockets and fiddle a little. 

[nunzio]

If it's never been replaced, it's probably due. That said.. I **hate** grinding grit on internal engine parts. If you absolutely must do that.. take serious pains to make sure that no grinding grit gets in the engine. Seriously. Lots of rags, etc.
It's really no big deal to use a chain with no master link  . All you have to do is pull all three sprockets and fiddle a little. 

My thinking was since this is my first time that there is less chance of any major mistakes if I leave the sprockets in place and only remove and install the chain and tensioner.

Am I going about this wrong?

[fotoguzzi]

No your going at it reasonably.  When I get to my Mac I'll post some pics. What's your location? Maybe a member would help you.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

...and fiddle a little. 

 

[nunzio]

No your going at it reasonably.  When I get to my Mac I'll post some pics. What's your location? Maybe a member would help you.

Thanks for the offer of pictures!!!

I live near Dallas, Texas.

[JoeW]

I'd recommend an automatic chain tensioner as well Harper's and MG cycle sell them. You'll have to remove the sprockets to install it though.

[travelingbyguzzi]

 

I'd recommend an automatic chain tensioner as well Harper's and MG cycle sell them. You'll have to remove the sprockets to install it though.

Not so. MI is probably sending him a Valtek chain tensioner. Tho it has been 15 years since I replaced the Cal II chain, I definitely did not remove the sprockets. It was a bit of a puzzle, but I preservered.

[Matt]

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=53647.0

I guess I'm not good at puzzles, I had to rattle-gun my sprockets off and line up everything on the way back in.

Pretty easy really, the Valtec is good stuff.

Hint: Vice-grip the tensioner to the side of the engine (compressed) whilst fiddling.

[fotoguzzi]

after

before,


I was able to get the valtec in w/o removing the sprockets

[Chuck in Indiana]

FWIW, I *couldn't* get the Valtec in without removing the sprockets.  The lower mount bolt was too long and hit the sprocket.. it must depend on what tub Luigi picked the bolts out of that day..
At any rate, you'll be fine, Al. Just make sure to not get grit in the engine and put the master link clip on the right direction.

[nunzio]

Do I need something to "lock" the sprockets in place while I change the chain?

Thanks...Alan

[twhitaker]

As you can see in Fotos first photo, the timing marks are pointed at each other. You just need to make sure they are after the new chain is in place.

[Chuck in Indiana]

As you can see in Fotos first photo, the timing marks are pointed at each other. You just need to make sure they are after the new chain is in place.

Wat Terry says. If you bring it up on compression ready to fire the S cylinder (TDC) everything will be in the right location to pull the chain and put a new one on. The bottom one is just the oil pump, and doesn't matter where it is indexed.

[fotoguzzi]

you can get the timing cover off insitu but two of the hex bolts might be hard to access, a ball head hex might be your friend on them.
easier if you take the front wheel off.

use the special tool to free the alternator, it's about $12. from MGcycle.

[sparrowhawwk]

Don't know why anyone would want to grind/cut the chain.  I installed a new endless chain last year and just removed it and swapped it into another motor last week with no need to cut it.  The only issue is to remove the three gears by moving each a small amount at a time so they come off together.  I also installed the Valtec using the Moto Int. method.  Undid the small nut and separated the rub strip and spring first.  Installed the bracket and then new chain first.  Installing the rub strip last worked better for me although I found a small pair of needle nose vice grips made it easier to line up the end of the tensioner spring.