Norge 4v

[Vasco DG]

The problem with O2 sensor foolers is that the signal from the narrow band sensor is very crude. It may not be as critical on the 2VPCmotor, (Although my experience with my G11 would suggest otherwise.) as it is on the 8V but these devices can and do cause massive overfuelling at certain load points which can have disastrous and very, very expensive results.

When I tried one on my G11 its main effect was to throw up a 'Service' warning and put the bike into limp mode.

Pete

[bratman2]

Same results I got from the optimizer. All in the first 5 miles, so it didn't stay long enough to do any damage. Once I removed the code it tripped and cleared the triangle of death from my display.

There is no software needed to buy. Guzzidiag will reset the tps just fine for free. Then you can look for a tune to download.

To the OP, you need it set up proper. Valves adjusted or checked, a proper TB sync and the tps reset. You sync at 4k and again at idle with the air bleed, then repeat. For me it takes about three times to get it near perfect.

[kingoffleece]

Bill Mayer seat.  NOW you're talkin............. .

[argyllwinger]

Thanks again for the tips regarding front brakes. Will try out your advice come the weekend.
George.

[Kev m]

The older (1st Generation?) Norge is simple to do valve adjustments on - much more so than the 8v, but you do want to invest in some software that will allow you to reset the TPS when you are finished.

Point of order: There is no reason to reset the TPS after a valve adjustment.

Carry on.

PS. I liked (preferred) the 2V motor.

[Vasco DG]

The procedure for adjusting the valves on the 8V is IDENTICAL to the procedure for adjusting the valves on the earlier 4V motor. The only difference is the screw and locknut adjusters are smaller and there are twice as many! If 'Small' equals 'Difficult' I'd have to wonder about your motor skills and vision.....

Pete

[jdgretz]

The procedure for adjusting the valves on the 8V is IDENTICAL to the procedure for adjusting the valves on the earlier 4V motor. The only difference is the screw and locknut adjusters are smaller and there are twice as many! If 'Small' equals 'Difficult' I'd have to wonder about your motor skills and vision.....

Pete

I have not looked at the 8v motor that closely since I don't have one, but that is good to know.  I like the ease of adjusting the valves without needing to resort to shims and the like.

jdg

[canuguzzi]

The procedure for adjusting the valves on the 8V is IDENTICAL to the procedure for adjusting the valves on the earlier 4V motor. The only difference is the screw and locknut adjusters are smaller and there are twice as many! If 'Small' equals 'Difficult' I'd have to wonder about your motor skills and vision.....

Pete

Maybe the small equals difficult was in reference to other matters?

Just kidding, the laugh icon never works when you need it.

[Idontwantapickle]

The issue of the O2 'Optimiser', (A very bad idea in my book.) is typical. One of the things done with the GT re flash is that Lamda is turned off. So why sell your customers a device that futz's with the O2 sensor signal? Enquiring minds and all that..........

I used a spoofer (FatDuc) on the O2 sensor but it was just a dodge, at the time there wasn't a way for me to map it.
The worst thing about the stock configuration (to me) is the popping through the exhaust on decel followed closely by the uneven/lean fueling.
I removed the FatDuc and installed the map with the sensor turned off and also noted that on the map the fuel was zeroed out at closed throttle through most of the RPM range. No fuel = no popping. All issues addressed, no spoofer needed.
Did I mention it runs like a dream now? Well it does!

Hunter

[Nick]

I used a spoofer (FatDuc) on the O2 sensor but it was just a dodge, at the time there wasn't a way for me to map it.
The worst thing about the stock configuration (to me) is the popping through the exhaust on decel followed closely by the uneven/lean fueling.
I removed the FatDuc and installed the map with the sensor turned off and also noted that on the map the fuel was zeroed out at closed throttle through most of the RPM range. No fuel = no popping. All issues addressed, no spoofer needed.
Did I mention it runs like a dream now? Well it does!

Hunter

I got the GT package (reflash, PC-V, Autotune, etc...) for my '07 Norge. The bike runs better then ever, (55K miles, so far...) No popping on decel, (just gurgling) and a delight to ride.   

[Lannis]

Thanks again for the tips regarding front brakes. Will try out your advice come the weekend.
George.

Hang in there; lots of good advice here.   

You're also getting a good dose of the same sort of thing that split the Church into Catholics and Eastern Orthodox - 8 valve vs 4 valve, something like how to cross oneself or something.   I've got both kinds, and I'd never use the difference to decide which kind of bike to get ....

Lannis

[bratman2]

For the front brakes. I found a small bolt, nut and couple of washers. Thread them through the bobbin and hooked them up to my Milwaukee cordless drill, which is variable speed. Along with a full can of brake cleaner and went to war with it.  Reversible so I can turn the bobbins each way. Amazing the crud that will come out of them. Takes a little time but makes a world of difference in freeing up the bobbins on the front discs.