Author Topic: Neutral switch  (Read 2608 times)

Offline hooah54

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Neutral switch
« on: September 04, 2015, 08:15:43 AM »
How do you diagnose if the component is bad?  Tested the bulb in the console of the Cal II.  Put the positive lead of the voltmeter on the lavendar wire and black on the frame and got 0.07V.   Just when you thought you had killed all the gremlins.
'85 MG  Cal II, '03 BMW R1150R, '09 Piaggio MP3 250 ie

Offline Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: Neutral switch
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2015, 01:14:34 PM »
Check continuity. Attach one lead to the stud of the neutral switch, the other to a good ground.
Charlie

Offline hooah54

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Re: Neutral switch
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2015, 03:49:12 PM »
Thanks, checked as you stated and no continuity....looks like replacement is in order>
'85 MG  Cal II, '03 BMW R1150R, '09 Piaggio MP3 250 ie

Offline Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: Neutral switch
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2015, 04:44:46 PM »
Thanks, checked as you stated and no continuity....looks like replacement is in order>

First, make sure you're really in neutral and not a false neutral. There's nothing really to go bad in the switch, it's just a metal blade in a black plastic holder.



You can probably just bend the blade of it up to make better contact with the bump on the shift drum.  I've found it's easier to remove the switch from the transmission case if you back off both nuts on the stud. The nut and washer closest to the plastic base expand it slightly when tightened.
Charlie

Offline hooah54

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Re: Neutral switch
« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2015, 09:30:02 AM »
No continuity on the switch but the lavendar wire has continuity from the instrument console to the connector at the switch.  Could it be in the instrument console light?
'85 MG  Cal II, '03 BMW R1150R, '09 Piaggio MP3 250 ie


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